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Offline Joseph Meiring  
#1 Posted : 09 April 2011 17:32:16(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Hi all
I would like to digitize some of my locos. Some are pretty old.....like their owner....but still in good running order....maybe not so much like their owner!!
3003 and 3021, circa mid 1970's,
and 3309 circa mid 1980.
What exactly do I need to purchase to convert these to digital? The 3309 has smoke and telex, and would love to control these via the MS2.
Help will be appreciated, as always!
thanx, Joe
Offline river6109  
#2 Posted : 09 April 2011 18:11:12(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,726
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Joe,
3003, will need a 60903, 60923, 60943 conversion set.
3021, will need a 60904, 60924, 60944 conversion set.
3309, will need a 60901, 60921, 60941 conversion set.

or you buy ESU permanent magnets suitable for the coil magnets on your current locos and you leave the rest the way it is, with other words just change the magnet to a permanent magnet.

I would recommend ESU decoders either lokpilot or sound decoders.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Joseph Meiring  
#3 Posted : 09 April 2011 20:48:39(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Joe,
3003, will need a 60903, 60923, 60943 conversion set.
3021, will need a 60904, 60924, 60944 conversion set.
3309, will need a 60901, 60921, 60941 conversion set.

or you buy ESU permanent magnets suitable for the coil magnets on your current locos and you leave the rest the way it is, with other words just change the magnet to a permanent magnet.

I would recommend ESU decoders either lokpilot or sound decoders.

John

Thanx for the prompt reply John - according to the M website, the 60903, 60923, 60904, 60924, 60901 and 60921 are no longer produced, and not available??
the 60943, 60944. and 60941 cannot be found (does not exist)??
Any suggestions?
thanks again
Joe
Offline Joseph Meiring  
#4 Posted : 09 April 2011 21:20:44(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
I went on the Lokshop site- seems the 60943(60903), 60944(60904), and 60941(60901) will be available Q3 2011.
Cost around 26 Euro each.
Joe
Offline ac jacko  
#5 Posted : 13 June 2011 14:01:02(UTC)
ac jacko


Joined: 09/04/2010(UTC)
Posts: 897
Location: Gawler South Australia
Joe how did your conversions go?

I am looking at converting all my analog to digital and have been looking at Uhlenbrock 76200, has any one used these?

I am confused greatly on what is required to convert the old AC Anlaog to DCC (MS2 or CS2) will be the controller.

After spending the weekend with digital locos and the sounds the loco's made, it got me hooked hence the query

cheers

Edited by user 14 June 2011 12:17:33(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by ac jacko
Offline river6109  
#6 Posted : 13 June 2011 14:45:19(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,726
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Dale,

I've found the Marklin conversion kit suitable with a 5 pole armature, brush plate, and perm. magnet at around Euro 35.00, I than buy ESU lopilot or sound decoders and program them with a lokp rogrammer.
Your second option is buying perm.magnets from ESU and replacing your coil magnet. everything else stays the same.
I've made over 200 conversions (my own collection) and I do conversions for members at times.
small & large flat armatures and the brushes are fed in from the side.
Not all locos can be converted with the first option but the ones which aren't listed there is a way around of converting them.
When converting locos and installing a sound decoder, you don't want to ruin your sound decoder so be careful or let someone else do the job who knows how to, just a suggestion.
If you do your conversion yourself you could be up to as much as A$ 90.00 for each loco (first option) or about A$ 65.00 with the second option.
If you ask me to do it, send me an email

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by river6109
Offline Joseph Meiring  
#7 Posted : 13 June 2011 21:04:30(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Originally Posted by: ac jacko Go to Quoted Post
Joe how did your conversions go?

I am looking at converting all my analog to digital and have been looking at Uhlenbrock 76200, has any one used these?

I am confused greatly on what is required to convert the old AC Anlaog to DCC (MS2 or CS2) will be the controller.

After spenmding weekend with digiatla locos and the sounds the loco's made, it got me hooked hence the query

cheers

Yes indeed....that's what got me hooked as well!! The control of the digital locos is quite stupendous; I use the MS2; Still waiting for the new M decoders to be released - Q3 2011 according to M - then I can get going with the conversions; at the mo I only have 2 digital locos, so I'm running a mix of analog and digital circuits (separate from each other).
Offline Joseph Meiring  
#8 Posted : 13 June 2011 21:06:19(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Dale,

I've found the Marklin conversion kit suitable with a 5 pole armature, brush plate, and perm. magnet at around Euro 35.00, I than buy ESU lopilot or sound decoders and program them with a lokp rogrammer.
Your second option is buying perm.magnets from ESU and replacing your coil magnet. everything else stays the same.
I've made over 200 conversions (my own collection) and I do conversions for members at times.
small & large flat armatures and the brushes are fed in from the side.
Not all locos can be converted with the first option but the ones which aren't listed there is a way around of converting them.
When converting locos and installing a sound decoder, you don't want to ruin your sound decoder so be careful or let someone else do the job who knows how to, just a suggestion.
If you do your conversion yourself you could be up to as much as A$ 90.00 for each loco (first option) or about A$ 65.00 with the second option.
If you ask me to do it, send me an email

John

....wish I stayed just a little bit closer to Perth!!.....
Offline Ranjit  
#9 Posted : 14 June 2011 04:20:14(UTC)
Ranjit


Joined: 18/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 3,009
Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA
Hey Joe,

If I were you, I would keep the old analog locomotives the way they are. Once you convert them to digital, you change their value and character, not to mention the cost!

Cheers,
Ranjit
Modelling in HO Scale - Era III & IV. K+M Track, Analogue + Digital
_____________________________________________________________________________

#Get Vaccinated
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need" - Marcus Tullius Cicero
"Nothing is as powerful as an idea whose time has come" - Victor Marie Hugo
"If you can dream it, you can do it" - Walt Disney
Offline berdos  
#10 Posted : 14 June 2011 07:57:10(UTC)
berdos


Joined: 15/02/2003(UTC)
Posts: 61
Location: Athens, Greece
Hi all,

I have in my stock a 60902 decoder and I want to upgrade an old analog loco to digital. Is it enough to change only the decoder or I have to replace the motor also?
Offline nevw  
#11 Posted : 14 June 2011 09:22:29(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
ALso need to replace the COil Magnet with a Permanent Magnet also change the Light Bulbs.

NN
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline cookee_nz  
#12 Posted : 14 June 2011 09:27:00(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,955
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Originally Posted by: Ranjit Go to Quoted Post
Hey Joe,

If I were you, I would keep the old analog locomotives the way they are. Once you convert them to digital, you change their value and character, not to mention the cost!

Cheers,
Ranjit


Hi Ranjit, don't mind me jumping in here but while I understand where you are coming from, I'm not sure I would agree.

Depending on the actual loco's, you should be able to convert most if not all while still retaining the ability to revert back to original condition if desired, the only tell-tale indication would be where the wires have been re-soldered and this could require doing in normal maintenance anyway.

Anyone (mainly collectors) wanting to keep their loco's in top condition for the sake of resale value would probably not be running them anyway due to wear on the wheels, marks and fingerprints from handling (no matter how carefully) and so on. The only alternative would be to purchase another of the same model for running and keep the other for displaying but that could be a very expensive option for some.

If you have an item that you want to use as normal, but which is and remains in good condition, just keep the removed parts ready to swap back if it's decided to sell it.

As for character, well you can breathe new life into a favoured old model by fitting a suitable decoder and improving the slow running, maintaining consistent speeds on inclines, better control of accessories etc.

I'm certainly not knocking what you say in anyway, but I would personally not hesitate to convert any loco I owned no matter how old or rare it might be if I wanted to run it regularly, otherwise I might as well not own it?

So long as the parts are kept to return it to analog should it be required then I see no problem - go for it Joe and enjoy.

Cheers

Cookee
Melbourne
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
Offline river6109  
#13 Posted : 14 June 2011 10:02:23(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,726
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Ranjit,

There is no evidence, when converting an Analog loco to digital it devalues the loco.
All the locos I've sold had increased in value.
I do agree with you when converting older locos pre 1956 or so, the value can have an effect, e.g. 3015 Crocodile, 3025 etc.etc.
When you have a digital layout and having Analog Locos sitting around, e.g. display cabinet, it' s not doing anything, so why not converting them to digital at a fraction of the cost instead of a new revised loco and in principal the same loco but at an inflated price.

For instance my 3005 will inrease in price, my 3024 will increase in price, my 3011, 3014 will or has increased in price.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline berdos  
#14 Posted : 14 June 2011 11:28:00(UTC)
berdos


Joined: 15/02/2003(UTC)
Posts: 61
Location: Athens, Greece
Originally Posted by: nevw Go to Quoted Post
ALso need to replace the COil Magnet with a Permanent Magnet also change the Light Bulbs.

NN


tnx for your post. What is the coil magnet? The permanent magnet is part of MAR60943 ?
Offline xxup  
#15 Posted : 14 June 2011 12:03:16(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,472
Location: Australia
Okay.. This is interesting.. So would you convert a blue or red arrow??
Adrian
UserPostedImage
Australia flag by abFlags.com
Offline ac jacko  
#16 Posted : 14 June 2011 12:20:49(UTC)
ac jacko


Joined: 09/04/2010(UTC)
Posts: 897
Location: Gawler South Australia
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Dale,

I've found the Marklin conversion kit suitable with a 5 pole armature, brush plate, and perm. magnet at around Euro 35.00, I than buy ESU lopilot or sound decoders and program them with a lokp rogrammer.
Your second option is buying perm.magnets from ESU and replacing your coil magnet. everything else stays the same.
I've made over 200 conversions (my own collection) and I do conversions for members at times.
small & large flat armatures and the brushes are fed in from the side.
Not all locos can be converted with the first option but the ones which aren't listed there is a way around of converting them.
When converting locos and installing a sound decoder, you don't want to ruin your sound decoder so be careful or let someone else do the job who knows how to, just a suggestion.
If you do your conversion yourself you could be up to as much as A$ 90.00 for each loco (first option) or about A$ 65.00 with the second option.
If you ask me to do it, send me an email

John


Thanks very John of the offer,very much appreciated. I will search for the marklin concersion kit( I assume comes with instructions?)

Ok so I wish to upgrade my fav loco 3085 to digital. So Marklin kit for conversion is there a guide to use?. Will this still run the smoke units if fitted?

ESU Lokpilot Version 3 or version 4 ?

cheers
Offline jvuye  
#17 Posted : 14 June 2011 13:38:56(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: xxup Go to Quoted Post
Okay.. This is interesting.. So would you convert a blue or red arrow??


Yes of course I would!
The trick here is to do it right, in fact in a "reversible" fashion.
I have "grafted" a Lokpilot on mine.
All it takes is cutting a few tracks on the pcb , then mount and solder the Lopi wires.

If you ever want to revert to the original analog configuration, it is easy to unsolder the Lopi, and bridge the gaps with wire+solder.
Hope this helps.

Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by jvuye
Offline river6109  
#18 Posted : 14 June 2011 14:26:54(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,726
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Dale,

You usually find the conversion kits on ebay.de and just enter the spare part number, e.g. 60901, 69201.
A lokpilot 4 would be my recommendations as lokpilot 3 is now an older version.
You have mainly 2 options, with an 8 pin wire harness or a 21 pin PCB which gives you the F 3 & F4 as an option to program them.
All depends how many locos you've got and how many you would like to convert a lok programmer could be a handy thing to have, it makes it much more easier to program your decoders.

the conversion kits do not come with any instructions, they include: 1 five pole armature, 1 motor shield, 1 perm. magnet, 2 chokes, 2 brushes, 2 longer screws

Adrian,

Yes I have converted 2 Red Arrows and 1 blue Arrow (sold).
Although these rail cars were a bit noisy, a lokpilot did take some of the noise away, later versions of the Red Arrow had a different and quieter motor but didn't fit into the first productions (3125, 3126, 3127)
I think it was worthwhile converting them and by gaining functions, the interior light was separately activated by Aux 1.


John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Yumgui  
#19 Posted : 14 June 2011 23:24:26(UTC)
Yumgui

United States   
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,660
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
... the conversion kits do not come with any instructions ...

Now that I find strange ^^!

I've looked all over for digital conversion instructions ... nothing doing, not much explicit out there.

Wonder why that is ? Confused

Yum
If your M track is rusted ... DON'T throw it out !
Working on: https://studiogang.com/projects/all
My heavy train station renovation: https://youtu.be/QQlyNiq416A
Inspired by: http://www.nakedmarklin.com/... Am not alone in this universe, phew.
Offline river6109  
#20 Posted : 15 June 2011 08:47:43(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,726
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: Yumgui Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
... the conversion kits do not come with any instructions ...

Now that I find strange ^^!

I've looked all over for digital conversion instructions ... nothing doing, not much explicit out there.

Wonder why that is ? Confused

Yum

The conversion kits, I'm referring to are not of the shelf marklin items.
marklin doesn't sell them as such, they are a conversion kit without the decoder, hence no instructions.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline ac jacko  
#21 Posted : 15 June 2011 13:31:20(UTC)
ac jacko


Joined: 09/04/2010(UTC)
Posts: 897
Location: Gawler South Australia
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Dale,

You usually find the conversion kits on ebay.de and just enter the spare part number, e.g. 60901, 69201.
A lokpilot 4 would be my recommendations as lokpilot 3 is now an older version.
You have mainly 2 options, with an 8 pin wire harness or a 21 pin PCB which gives you the F 3 & F4 as an option to program them.
All depends how many locos you've got and how many you would like to convert a lok programmer could be a handy thing to have, it makes it much more easier to program your decoders.

the conversion kits do not come with any instructions, they include: 1 five pole armature, 1 motor shield, 1 perm. magnet, 2 chokes, 2 brushes, 2 longer screws

Adrian,

Yes I have converted 2 Red Arrows and 1 blue Arrow (sold).
Although these rail cars were a bit noisy, a lokpilot did take some of the noise away, later versions of the Red Arrow had a different and quieter motor but didn't fit into the first productions (3125, 3126, 3127)
I think it was worthwhile converting them and by gaining functions, the interior light was separately activated by Aux 1.


John


Thanks John, i checked the ESU webiste and recommend just replacing the armature winding for their permanent magnet. Will this suffice for the conversion kit? I also saw the Lok programmer and I went oh no Drool
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