Hi Ranjit,
I have the 37844 (non-weathered BR50 with Wagner smoke deflectors) and yes, the headlights are very dim in analog operation. In digital, full voltage is available to the lamps all the time, and the decoder supplies reduced voltage to the motor when the decoder is "told" to move the loco at low or moderate speed. In analog, realistic speed is achieved simply by putting a low voltage into the track, so the lights are dimmer. The bulbs are different too (22V nominal vs. 16V in analog locos.)

You can make the lights brighter by a simple, easily reversible trick: just put some reflective material (aluminum foil or white paper) lining the interior of the boiler and tender housing near the lamps. use paper if you are concerned about short circuits, and keep the smokestack open if you are going to use a smoke unit. You can tape the material in place. opening the tender is tricky (there are some tabs you GENTLY pop loose with a screwdriver) but while you're in there, you can adjust the acceleration and top speed controls too.

I'm sure the "flaws" in your loco's finish are intentional weathering details. Personally I never saw German engines looking so decrepit in service (last time I was there and saw steam still in use was 1973) but perhaps at the very end they let them deteriorate. The white stuff is probably meant to represent mineral salts from the boiler water.

Ranjit- My wife's has the same weathering effects as yours.

Hi Katzenwald, Ira and Lars,

Thanks a lot guys for your inputs. I guess the marks are intentional and there is nothing to worry about then? Btw, how does one detach the tender from the loco? It seems to be hard wired! Ira, do you even have paint peeling off on yours?

Cheers,
Ranjit

Thank you, Armando. What is the extra coupling and the pins tha come in the box for? Is is for fitting the loco when the tender is detached? Can some of you share pictures of this loco? I just want to make sure the weathering effects are identical and there is nothing that we need to report back to Marklin.

Take care and warm regards,
Ranjit

Hi Katzenwald,

Thank you for the additional info. Btw, I do have a coupler in the front of the loco. I guess, in my case, the extra coupler is for the back when the tender is detached. Are there any specific instructions on fixing the pins? Also, how does one fix the stoppers inside the acrylic case. Is it simply nailed down in position?

best regards,
Ranjit

I don't have the birthday model so I don't have the acrylic display base. The "pins" go short end first into the lower holes on the fronts of the cylinders. And I don't know why they included a third coupler for you if there are already couplers at the front and back. Are they all the same? Maybe one is a prototypical (non-working) front coupler. Or maybe one is a Relex coupler to replace the close coupler if you use a lot of older rolling stock with Relex.

You cannot run the engine without the tender (it would get no current, just as the prototype would get no coal and water.) So there would be no point in including an extra coupler for this purpose. maybe they just threw in a spare by mistake.

Hi all,

I've seen once such a machine at my local dealer. I must say that it looks wonderfull, and that M is on the good track to give their machines a more realistic look ( I am an addict of weathering ). The white spots, come from the chalk in the water, as well as from the additions the fireman has to put in the water to prevent stoning in the boiler. It appears at those places where you can have leaky joints, especially at the steam pickup valves and the feeding valves to the boiler. M does indeed finish these machines by hand. Hence the individual differences - the machines are unique pieces. To my taste, the marks are too heavy (too white), and should be darkened somewhate more. But that is personal taste, isn't it ?

In any case, I wish you good luck with this fine machine, and... well, with your birthday

Cheers,

Bob