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Offline Kepler  
#1 Posted : 14 November 2010 19:17:49(UTC)
Kepler


Joined: 11/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
Location: North Carolina
Greetings everyone. I'm new around here. I've been a Märklin amateur for years, but am just now (early 40s, finally have some money for serious hobbying) diving into it deep, and hoping to achieve journeyman status. So, as the old maxim suggests, I'm diving in headfirst -- no toe dipping into the water for me.

I've just purchased (via ebay) a Märklin 3093 Br 18.4 Steam Loc. I'm guessing it was made in the mid 1980s, as it still has its box, which is of the white with red lettering type, not the old blue box.

I'm wondering if anyone has experience with one these puppies? The magnets and rotors appear to be of a shape I' unfamiliar with. I've found an old parts schematic on the Märklin website, and I'm attaching the portion which shows the motor.

I want to upgrade this thing as much as I can. If I can get the 5 arm rotor into it, that's what I want, plus a top-end decoder (probably an ESU 3 or 4).

Any thoughts, advice, or warnings (RUN AWAY!) before I begin?

UserPostedImage

Many thanks,

K

Edited by user 14 November 2010 23:40:55(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline nevw  
#2 Posted : 15 November 2010 00:38:40(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
Change the Magnet to a Permanent Magnet, ESU Decoder, change the Light GLobes.

M did make a motor conversion Kit not sure if it is still abailable. There is a "Sticky" topic at the beginning of this section listing parts that you will need. This loco has the Large Flat Commutator Motor. (LFCM)

Nev

NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline kariosls37  
#3 Posted : 15 November 2010 02:08:52(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Welcome to the forum Kepler
Your locomotive is a simple, easy to convert model. you should not run into major problems with it.
So far I have converted 4 locomotives without blowing up decoders. The process is quite simple

I'll assume you have a basic understanding of electronics, and that you can handle a soldering iron. If not, first ask someone who can teach you these skills.

First, get all the parts. As Nev suggested, you can buy a kit, in your case for a LFCM motor(No. 60924). They can be a bit expensive, but it cotains all the parts required.
Alternatively, if you want to choose your own decoder, you can buy the parts yourself.
you will need:
-a decoder of your choice. it must be compatible with motorola and/or MFX
-a permanent magnet(No 60904).
-a 5 pole rotor. You will have to count the number of cogs on the origional rotor and buy one with the same number of cogs
-a new motor cover. this must match roughly in shape with the old cover (either 210881 or 214121). Other members will know which one to use
-new DCM brushes

The first thing is to check wether the loco runs as it is. if not, fix the loco first.
Then I unscrew everything from the loco exept for the wheels and gears, unsolder wires where nessecary (pick up shoe connection, the rest should come out intact) remove and save all the parts and give the non-electronic parts a very god scrub with an old toothbrush in warm soapy water to get all the dirt and grease out.
Next I reassemble all the mechanical parts.

According to the instructions, solder all neccecary wires(motor, pickup, lightd, earth(a small bit of brass screwed to the motor cover, on the top left screw on your drawing)). make sure you solder the wires to the new motor cover. Make sure all wire connections are insulated, a good option for this is heat shrink tubing. It may be a good idea to isolate the lightbulb from the frame to stop the light from flickering. You may need new parts for that.

Now reassemble the motor, magnet first, then the new rotor and finally the motor cover. make sure you don't forget the earthing lug(small bit of brass)
Now test everything with a multimeter. shorts are often fatal for decoders. The motor connections should not have any connections to either ground or the pickup shoe.

Once everything looks sound, pop in the brushes, oil it lightly and with the top off, put the locomotive on the test track and enter it's adress in the controller. Test everything, and if it works, put on the cover and program the loco to your preferences. Your locomotive is now fully digital!

If you run into problems, or are unsure of something, there are plenty of people here who are willing to help you on this forum.

Good luck
Rick
Offline river6109  
#4 Posted : 15 November 2010 02:55:27(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,728
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Kepler,
Welcome to the forum.

There are conversion kits available from ebay.de and are much cheaper than buying it as a Märklin conversion kit. (60924) you're looking around the Euro 30.00.

The above loco in question is not part of converting the loco to digital with the above conversion set, same goes for 3111.
As Nev suggested, use the same armature and buy a permanent magnet from ESU (220560)

Rick's sparepart numbers are not correct. The sparepart number for the brush plate cover is 228500.
If you look at your scan, you can already notice the brushes are upside down.

To convert the loco by following Rick's recipe you would land into trouble, although the motor would fit without problem, the housing will not fit back.
The reason: The conversion set with its permanent magnet is thicker than the original one, hence sticking out more than the analog one.
I did a conversion (3111, same type of loco) and had to shave the inside of housing considerable to be able to screw the housing back on again.
I also fitted a sound decoder and for some unknown reason fried it.
Having said that, it is possible to do it but why go through all the alterations when Nev's suggestion is simple and quick.
I personally have never used the original 3 pole rotor and have always converted it with 5 pole ones, so I can not comment on the running characteristics of the loco with a 3 pole armature.
Other people have commented on and remarked it doesn't make much or no difference.

If you ever decide to change the lokpilot to a sound decoder it would be advisable to install a wire harness with an 8pin plug (ESU No. 51950).
this will enable you to solder all the wires once and by changing the decoder, pull the decoder plug out of the socket and replace it with the sound decoder.
With a tender loco I usually put the wire harness into the tender including decoder.

This example I made myself


UserPostedImage



this is the conversion leaflet for all Märklin locos.
UserPostedImage


UserPostedImage


John





https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Kepler  
#5 Posted : 15 November 2010 03:07:24(UTC)
Kepler


Joined: 11/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
Location: North Carolina
Nev and Rick,

Thanks so much for the replies. You've already helped me past the initial hurdle, which was identifying which kind of motor this is. There are lots of kits and parts available, but almost all of them say something like, "If you have the SFCM, buy this; if you have the LFCM, buy that..." Not having much...erm, any...experience in this, I didn't even know which kind this is...so thanks even for that, and for everything else.

Cheers,

K
Offline river6109  
#6 Posted : 15 November 2010 03:14:09(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,728
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Kepler wrote:
Nev and Rick,

Thanks so much for the replies. You've already helped me past the initial hurdle, which was identifying which kind of motor this is. There are lots of kits and parts available, but almost all of them say something like, "If you have the SFCM, buy this; if you have the LFCM, buy that..." Not having much...erm, any...experience in this, I didn't even know which kind this is...so thanks even for that, and for everything else.

Cheers,

K


This is an example of how you can get confused by different numbers, type and shape of motors, armatures with different numbers of teeth.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline nevw  
#7 Posted : 15 November 2010 03:51:54(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
This is a good site for basic information on M Locos engine type etc.

http://www.bahn.hfkern.de/Maerklin/Menue.html

NN
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline Kepler  
#8 Posted : 18 November 2010 18:00:10(UTC)
Kepler


Joined: 11/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
Location: North Carolina
OK, so my "new" 3093 has arrived, and step 1 is simply to make sure that it is mechanically sound. So, I have an old Delta controller, and a MS controller. Am I going to be able to run this analog loc with either of these controllers?

*scratches his head*

Bear in mind: I need only to test the mechanics. I'm not looking for a permanent way to run the loc.
Offline dntower85  
#9 Posted : 18 November 2010 19:01:32(UTC)
dntower85

United States   
Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,218
Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
To me there is not too much difference between a 3 pole and 5 pole rotor, after converting to a permanent magnet and a digital decoder.
The 5 pole motor dose give more control and more torque at low speeds.

The only major problem with a 3 pole motor is that most decoders are programed for a 5 pole rotor, so for speed regulation it looks for 5 pulses for its feed back speed control. In turn the decoder thinks it turned the rotor 1 time but in actually it turned 1 and 2/3 times. so the lok runs a little fast.

But most decoders can be programed ( set a CV) to set the number of poles that the motor has.
DT
Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's.
Offline H0  
#10 Posted : 18 November 2010 21:23:53(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,267
Location: DE-NW
Kepler wrote:
Am I going to be able to run this analog loc with either of these controllers?

Yes, you can run it at nearly full speed.

With a Delta Control 6604, loco will run when you turn the speed knob.
With 66045 or MS it will run as long as there is track power.

If you have a 6604: it needs an analog transformer that can be used to test the loco with varying speed and in both directions.

Other test: You can use two wires from the transformer that feeds the Delta Control. Connect one cable (brown) to the wheels, one cable (red if available, yellow otherwise) to the centre rail slider.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline Kepler  
#11 Posted : 24 November 2010 06:10:41(UTC)
Kepler


Joined: 11/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5
Location: North Carolina
Well, the good news is that the loc is indeed mechanically sound. Runs fine, forward and backward. The magnet inside is HUGE. Doesn't look anything at all like any of the Hamo, ESU or Marklin magnets out there. A bit perplexing...

On the upside, I got my BR41 converted with a ESU Loksound 3.0 52425 decoder,a dn it's running great. Although it wants to run REALLY, REALLY fast.. Now toi figure out the programming and dial that speed down. Whew!
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