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Offline applor  
#1 Posted : 06 October 2010 06:24:15(UTC)
applor

Australia   
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,539
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
So I have a large number of faller/vollmer etc. kits I need to build and I am curious as to what glue people use.

I have noticed on my older models that the glue has caused the plastic to discolour badly and it looks quite bad.
I have found white pieces turn yellow and dark brown plastic goes almost white - as a couple of examples.
I may be able to cover up the discolour when I weather them but its far from ideal.

I do not know what glue I have used back then but I now have a bottle of Revell professional (blue tilted bottle with yellow cap covering needle.
It is great and easy to work with, though I worry my models will discolour down the track.

Peoples thoughts and opinions?
modelling 1954 Germany (era IIIa)
Offline nevw  
#2 Posted : 06 October 2010 06:31:51(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,065
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
Faller expert GLue or Volmer plastic glue appears to be OK. Both mlt the plastic a litle and you get more like a weld.

N
wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline kariosls37  
#3 Posted : 06 October 2010 07:09:31(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
I use Humbrol and Faller expert glue, without discolouration.
Be careful not to use too much glue. you should not be able to see any glue from the outside.

My dad's old(40ish years)houses do show some discolouration where glue got onto the outside, as well as general discoluration that you would expect from plastic of that age.

The best way to prevent discolouration is to paint them. it gets rid of the horrible plastic look as wellThumpUp
Offline RayF  
#4 Posted : 06 October 2010 10:38:20(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,799
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
I use one of the "expert" glues that come in the bottle with a fine needle applicator. Airfix, Revell, Humbrol, Faller...I think they all work in much the same way, by melting the plastic to create a weld.

Try as I might, though, I always get a bit of glue on the outside. The best soltion is to paint the model. The pre-coloured plastic will discolour with age anyway, so I think it's best to get some paint on it from day one.

Many of my buildings can be easily removed from the layout, so when they start looking a bit "tired" I give them a good clean and repaint the large areas, like walls and roof. This is also a good opportunity to glue back on all those bits that tend to fall off over the years, and which I keep in a little jar.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#5 Posted : 06 October 2010 12:24:25(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,432
Location: New Zealand
I've used the Testors glue, which dries reasonably fast. It can tend to go to a clear/white colour when it dries, so again it is best to paint over it.


I've got some Faller Expert and some Revell glue to try out as well.
Offline David Dewar  
#6 Posted : 06 October 2010 13:41:18(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,099
Location: Scotland
I only use Faller Expert. If after you join the parts and you see some excess glue on the edges gently clean off with a cotton bud or similar before it dries.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline perz  
#7 Posted : 06 October 2010 21:06:45(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,577
Location: Sweden
I only use Humbrol "Precision Poly" now. It works well. In my youth I used Faller glue but it became hard to get here. Faller also worked well, but after it disappeared from the shops here I tried some other brands that were really crappy. After 2-3 years the glue turned white and the models fell apart.
Offline rschaffr  
#8 Posted : 07 October 2010 07:01:15(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,174
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
I used to user Fallers Expert but seemed to have a lot of problems with the tip clogging. Bill Ott at Modelbahn Ott told me a few years ago to try Testors Model Master. It also has a fine metal tip for application but never seems to clog. Testor's also makes a special glue for clear plastic windows which will not craze them if it gets on the viewed surface. You can even use this window glue to fabricate windows.

Have fun. I love building kits. I am in a down time nos because I don't have any place to put them, but with my new expansion I will have plenty of opportunity!
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline nevw  
#9 Posted : 07 October 2010 07:41:28(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,065
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
I learnt from one of the post here on how to clear Faller tips when they clog up.

Apply a flame to the tip, a match or cigarette lighter. when it goes POP and a little bit of fire from the tip it is clear.
Works every time.

Nev
wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline kariosls37  
#10 Posted : 07 October 2010 09:03:37(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
nevw wrote:
I learnt from one of the post here on how to clear Faller tips when they clog up.

Apply a flame to the tip, a match or cigarette lighter. when it goes POP and a little bit of fire from the tip it is clear.
Works every time.

Nev


I use a really fine wire, because the flame method can leave bits of soot behing in the tube. the soot can build up inside and clog the tube, and it won't burn off

For windows I now use Microscale's Krystal Klear. It sticks, dries clear and can also be used to make small windows and lenses.
Whatever you do, NEVER glue windows with superglue, because the superglue leaves a white haze around the glue.
Offline rschaffr  
#11 Posted : 07 October 2010 15:47:08(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,174
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
nevw wrote:
I learnt from one of the post here on how to clear Faller tips when they clog up.

Apply a flame to the tip, a match or cigarette lighter. when it goes POP and a little bit of fire from the tip it is clear.
Works every time.

Nev


Nev: I used to do that too, but after a while it doesn't work anymore, probably due to the buildup identified by kariosls37. I also use a fine wire, but again after a while the wire only bends. I have three or four half empty bottles of Fallers on my workbench. I put the tube from an empty Testors on one and it worked for a while but then clogged up again.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline Macfire  
#12 Posted : 07 October 2010 16:16:41(UTC)
Macfire


Joined: 04/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,652
Location: New Zealand
We have used Faller expert but I think a bottled glue in future, one that is used by my son who constructs scale aircraft
Lord Macca
New Zealand branch of Clan Donald.
Offline dntower85  
#13 Posted : 07 October 2010 16:30:21(UTC)
dntower85

United States   
Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,218
Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
kariosls37 wrote:


For windows I now use Microscale's Krystal Klear. It sticks, dries clear and can also be used to make small windows and lenses.
Whatever you do, NEVER glue windows with superglue, because the superglue leaves a white haze around the glue.


I use superglue, which I use to tack walls together then go over the edges with Testors plastic weld, this seems to work well. I use an accelerator called zap to make the superglue set instantly.

Another mistake I made with CA or superglue, was to glue parts of the roof on after I installed the windows.
The next day I had a finger print on the window on the inside where the trapped vapors from the superglue had found the grease from my finger and hazed the plastic.
DT
Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's.
Offline Nightowl4933  
#14 Posted : 07 October 2010 23:15:56(UTC)
Nightowl4933

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 972
Location: North Wiltshire
rschaffr wrote:
I used to user Fallers Expert but seemed to have a lot of problems with the tip clogging. Bill Ott at Modelbahn Ott told me a few years ago to try Testors Model Master. It also has a fine metal tip for application but never seems to clog. Testor's also makes a special glue for clear plastic windows which will not craze them if it gets on the viewed surface. You can even use this window glue to fabricate windows.

Have fun. I love building kits. I am in a down time nos because I don't have any place to put them, but with my new expansion I will have plenty of opportunity!


Hi Ron,

I had the same problem with the tip (I use Faller Expert, too) and there is a solution. Faller told me to (very carefully!) warm the needle with a lighter. They also sent me out two replacement needles for free, reminding me they're left hand threaded on the bottle.

Regards,

Pete

Oops, I didn't read the rest of the posts before I answered. Sorry Blushing Blushing
Living on Earth is expensive, but it does include a free trip around the sun every year.
Z Scale is great - where's me glasses?
Offline kariosls37  
#15 Posted : 08 October 2010 06:05:18(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Macfire wrote:
We have used Faller expert but I think a bottled glue in future, one that is used by my son who constructs scale aircraft


What glue is this? I might try it out if I run out of glue.

I use superglue to stick non styrene to styrene. The brand of superglue makes little diffrence from my experience, so I use the cheapest I can find. Watch out that you don't touch the glue and the glued parts, because superglue sticks to fingers better than anything else. Dont ask me how I know thisRollEyes

If I want to glue something that has to be really strong and it is not styrene, I use 2 part epoxy glue(Araldite). The stuff's a bit expensive, so I don't use it often, but it holds really well and dries clear too.
Offline rschaffr  
#16 Posted : 08 October 2010 16:51:53(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,174
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
kariosls37 wrote:


I use superglue to stick non styrene to styrene. The brand of superglue makes little diffrence from my experience, so I use the cheapest I can find. Watch out that you don't touch the glue and the glued parts, because superglue sticks to fingers better than anything else. Dont ask me how I know thisRollEyes

If I want to glue something that has to be really strong and it is not styrene, I use 2 part epoxy glue(Araldite). The stuff's a bit expensive, so I don't use it often, but it holds really well and dries clear too.


Plastruct makes several liquid bonding agents. One is designed to bond ABS plastic to styrene. It works great. It is a thin brushable liquid that welds the materials toether
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline David Dewar  
#17 Posted : 08 October 2010 19:41:39(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,099
Location: Scotland
rschaffr wrote:
nevw wrote:
I learnt from one of the post here on how to clear Faller tips when they clog up.

Apply a flame to the tip, a match or cigarette lighter. when it goes POP and a little bit of fire from the tip it is clear.
Works every time.

Nev


Nev: I used to do that too, but after a while it doesn't work anymore, probably due to the buildup identified by kariosls37. I also use a fine wire, but again after a while the wire only bends. I have three or four half empty bottles of Fallers on my workbench. I put the tube from an empty Testors on one and it worked for a while but then clogged up again.



Ron. Very much out of date but if you can get fine fuse wire it comes in a pack of several feet. I cut a small length and this clears the Faller nozzle very easily. If the wire bends after a while I just use another small length (about two inches is enough)
When finished I leave the wire in the nozzle (throw away the Faller cap).
While it seems difficult to thread the wire into the nozzle in practice is is easy and I have built more than 100 kits this way.
Using a bottle with a brush puts too much glue where it is not wanted.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline rschaffr  
#18 Posted : 08 October 2010 22:32:02(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,174
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
David:

The reason the wire bent was because the tube was irrevocably clogged. I tried new wires. What I did was take a fine drill bit (#75 or 80, I don't recall) and drill the dried glue out. This worked for a while but it clogged up again. For some reason, the Testors never clogs, even though the tube is the same size.

David Dewar wrote:

Ron. Very much out of date but if you can get fine fuse wire it comes in a pack of several feet. I cut a small length and this clears the Faller nozzle very easily. If the wire bends after a while I just use another small length (about two inches is enough)
When finished I leave the wire in the nozzle (throw away the Faller cap).
While it seems difficult to thread the wire into the nozzle in practice is is easy and I have built more than 100 kits this way.
Using a bottle with a brush puts too much glue where it is not wanted.

dave

-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#19 Posted : 09 October 2010 00:02:39(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,432
Location: New Zealand
Yes, I have never had the Testors glue clog up either. The bottle I have it in has a plastic spout.
Offline David Dewar  
#20 Posted : 09 October 2010 01:34:35(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,099
Location: Scotland
Interesting guys. Must try some of the Testors if I can find it.

Ron As I said if you leave the wire in the nozzle when the glue is not in use it will not clog. Faller say their Expert stuff is faster drying which may account for clogging. You must have gone through at leaset a tube building that large station !!

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline rschaffr  
#21 Posted : 09 October 2010 06:43:10(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,174
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Bigdaddynz wrote:
Yes, I have never had the Testors glue clog up either. The bottle I have it in has a plastic spout.


I have some of that. The "Model Master" is the same glue, I think, but with the fine metal tube applicator
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline rschaffr  
#22 Posted : 09 October 2010 06:45:21(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,174
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
David Dewar wrote:
Interesting guys. Must try some of the Testors if I can find it.

Ron As I said if you leave the wire in the nozzle when the glue is not in use it will not clog. Faller say their Expert stuff is faster drying which may account for clogging. You must have gone through at leaset a tube building that large station !!

dave


Yes, it took a lot of glue. BigGrin . So did the bridge.

I have three half empty bottles of Fallers that I plan to try to get working when my current bottle of Testors is gone. I will have a lot of buildings to build for my expansion.Cool



-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/IB), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline Ranjit  
#23 Posted : 20 October 2010 14:35:27(UTC)
Ranjit


Joined: 18/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,995
Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA
Hello Everybody,

Can you get Testors in shops outside the US? It looks like they are not licensed to ship outside the US.

Oh, by the way, I used to use Faller Expert and Vollmer glues, but have switched to Humbrol Precision Poly now. I would like to also try out the anti-clogging Testors glue as well.

Cheers,
Ranjit
Modelling in HO Scale - Era III & IV. K+M Track, Analogue + Digital
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Offline Bigdaddynz  
#24 Posted : 21 October 2010 02:09:28(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,432
Location: New Zealand
I have from time to time been able to buy Testors from shops in NZ. But I don't think you can buy from the Testors website, as they will not ship outside of the US.
Offline Ranjit  
#25 Posted : 21 October 2010 15:54:09(UTC)
Ranjit


Joined: 18/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,995
Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA
Thank you for that information, David. It is a rather hard to find item, isn't?

Cheers,
Ranjit
Modelling in HO Scale - Era III & IV. K+M Track, Analogue + Digital
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#Get Vaccinated
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"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need" - Marcus Tullius Cicero
"Nothing is as powerful as an idea whose time has come" - Victor Marie Hugo
"If you can dream it, you can do it" - Walt Disney
Offline Goofy  
#26 Posted : 22 October 2010 09:52:28(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 8,597
I´m using Faller glue for the buildings,such like Faller and Kibri.
While superglue is more perfect for figures like Preiser,to placement them on the ground of plastic.
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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