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Offline audiopip  
#51 Posted : 26 February 2010 04:07:31(UTC)
audiopip


Joined: 24/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Melbourne
BTW, Dave B sent me the data for the C-Sine motor, this was my reply..

The 'C sine' motor is similar in principle to our EC motors, in our case the windings are skewed by virtue of the construction (a 'knitted' winding, no poles only a round magnetic return so nothing to cog) and the motor rotor poles are perpendicular, the effect is much the same. This motor will have some minor cogging I expect, our EC motors have none at all.

IMO I would have to say this motor is probably not ours, the construction has been adopted to avoid any patent issues.

It looks a very nice motor, the use of ball bearings is always a good sign.

Do you have an idea of the size??

The electronics required could probably be used with either this motor or any other EC type motor, assuming the current/voltage/frequency/speed is compatible.

However it looks a nice solution, and requires minimum amount of messing about to fit, which could be a major advantage!

Regards
Offline TimR  
#52 Posted : 26 February 2010 05:22:36(UTC)
TimR

Indonesia   
Joined: 16/08/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,752
Location: Jakarta
audiopip wrote:

Do you have an idea of the size??


This is a link to Lokshop's scan of Marklin 2006 Catalog:
http://catalog.lokshop.d.../2006/E/H0/image_12.html

Roughly, the size of the motor is about similar to the Maxon DC motor in the BR45 discussed here.

Note that this is the current, most recent version of the motor. Earlier, Marklin use a larger motor that forum members refer to as "Large Sinus".

As for drive characteristics, this matches or better the Maxon DC motor. Power delivery is very, very smooth with no cogging effect noticable; it is also very quiet - quieter than BR45 in the first few speed steps, but hardly noticable. Torque is also noticably greater across much of the range compared to Maxon DC.

The drawback of this motor is that spare part cost is very, very expensive, in particular the driver board. But theoretically this should last a long time...
Now collecting C-Sine models.
Offline audiopip  
#53 Posted : 26 February 2010 09:14:13(UTC)
audiopip


Joined: 24/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Melbourne
Hi Tim,

Thanks for that, so it's a nominal 16mm motor.

As I said to Dave B the EC route is the way to go if you can afford it and have the space for the controller. It really fixes everything and we would always recommend the EC type motors, but for many applications it is a more costly solution and the customer will continue to use a brushed motor instead.

Regards

Jon Pippard

Offline jeehring  
#54 Posted : 26 February 2010 13:15:39(UTC)
jeehring


Joined: 25/09/2003(UTC)
Posts: 2,786
Location: ,
Excuse me if I'm sometimes repeating myself and talking drivel...Bored
As for me, I have decided to give priority to Marklin models equipped with EC brushless motors , into Marklin range they are named "SDS - motors".
I've never understood Marklin why they have decided to communicate with the name "SDS or C-Sinus" instead of " Brushless motors" or " EC brushless motors". In my opinion it's a communication mistake, specially for MRR enthusiasts, more specially for 2 railers: as Marklin was the first & unique manufacturer to install those "SDS brushless motors", 2 railers were always suspecting them not to be compatible with 2 rails digital systems. They are completely wrong, but you know MRR enthusiasts tend to be slightly anxious by nature.
The expression " EC brushless motors" is wellknown, and you can find plenty of information about it. So they could learn all the advantages of these motors.They could also learn that if other train manufacturers don't use it, the main reason is because those motors are more expensive.
( which is funny is that many 2 railers are still analog. By comparison with classical brushed motors, some of the advantages of brushless motors are more obvious & visible under analog control than with digital control)

Now, remains the question about durability and life of electronics....I'm not worry about the hardware of decoders. I'm more worry about the stability of the firmware, 15 years, 20 years, 30 years, 40 years,...100 years ? I'm also wondering if this firmware can be updated ( I think: yes, but...). If yes, we could do it by ourself, the loco stay on programming track...
Or may be we have to change them after xx years...
I have seen some 20 years old decoders, still working perfectly, as new...
But current modern decoders have more functionnalities. They also are much smoother. May be it's not a problem if we have to change the decoder from time to time (every 20/30/40 years)...
Anyway, whatever the types of motor, either EC brushless motors or ordinary brushed motors, the question about durability of electronics remains the same: most of us decided to go digital with decoders.
So,about the future the question is :
-what do you prefer: probability of changing electronics only, or probability of changing both electronics + motor ?
There is another reason: running brushed motors under E.C. of a digital decoder technically is a kind of non sense. That's why we hear some crackling at low speed sometimes ( commutation-vibration)
Definitely, each time I can do it, I’ll give priority to models with “EC brushless SDS motors.

It’s just a pity that 2010 Insider model of BR 03.10 is not fitted with EC brushless motor. IMHO It’s purely & only the decision of some Marklin accountant . (I hate accountants...Wink even if we need them so much...Angry Flapper )



Edited by user 27 February 2010 14:07:58(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline David Dewar  
#55 Posted : 26 February 2010 13:17:49(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Views messages in topic : 7,467
Location: Scotland
Hi John. Having looked through the Brawa new models booklet they make a point of saying they use Maxon motors and as their stuff as very good then they must be using the right type of motor.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline river6109  
#56 Posted : 26 February 2010 13:23:45(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,879
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
audiopip wrote:
Hi,

I declared who I was in post #41.

No experience of electronics for model trains, sorry!

Jon Pippard
maxon motor AU


Jon,

You excuse me, its my age

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline audiopip  
#57 Posted : 27 February 2010 02:07:32(UTC)
audiopip


Joined: 24/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Melbourne
Hi John

No worries...know exactly how you feel!

JonP
Offline audiopip  
#58 Posted : 02 March 2010 07:18:35(UTC)
audiopip


Joined: 24/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Melbourne
Hi All,

Just as a follow up to all of this.

Dave kindly sent me his motor and I have been able to take a look at it.

The motor seemed in good condition, and spins freely, which is generally a sign that it hasn't been overheated. But when a voltage is applied it runs as if it has several cylinders 'missing', needs a flick to start up, as Dave reported.

So I took it apart, and the reason for the problem is immediately apparent. The cause of the problem is that one brush has fallen apart, and I suspect we have an unfortunate combination of normal wear, which has weakened the brush, followed by the electronics failure which caused the brush to 'fuse' at its weakest point. The ends of the brush have dropped into the motor.

So unfortunately the motor is beyond repair, the only fix is a new motor. Dave has details on this.

If anyone can tell me how to add photographs to this forum then I am happy to post them. Daves armature is now my avatar...!

Obviously what I don't know is how much the motor has been run, and under what kind of use, temperature, load etc etc, which will drastically effect the life of the product.

Best regards
Jon Pippard
maxon motor AU
Offline nevw  
#59 Posted : 02 March 2010 07:43:34(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
Jon, Forum Topic will tell you how to do it.

https://www.marklin-users.net/fo....aspx?g=posts&t=1067
However here are the Photos.

UserPostedImage


UserPostedImage


UserPostedImage
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline nevw  
#60 Posted : 02 March 2010 07:54:46(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
Jon also provided some information sheets that I will upload in a few minutes.

Nev
Note from Jon:

Hi Dave,

Here is some stuff you (and other modellers) might find interesting.

The technology equivalent of the Sinus motor is our ECi 40 series, see the left hand drawing top of 29pdf.

The internal magnet with 7 pole pairs rotates in the middle, the windings are on a conventional laminated stack with salient (protruding) poles around the outside.

The ECi motor is a bit large for most models at 40mm diameter, although I guess O gauge might be OK!

The motor to the right is an EC pancake, note the magnets are in a ring around the inside of the rotor, which is coupled to the output shaft. This is an 'outrunner' in modellers terms.

Both these motors exhibit cogging and produce good torque at moderate speeds.

The EC motor is shown on 26 and 27 pdf. This has a knitted winding and a completely round magnetic return (which is also laminated but has no 'salient' ie protruding poles) so no cogging, but tends to have less torque and higher speed...up to 70,000rpm in special applications.

The brushed motor is shown on 24 and 25pdf, this is as per the motor you have have in your BR loco. Note how the winding is constructed, self supporting! The magnet assembly is attached to an end cap, so held still, and the shaft with the rotating winding attached passes through the middle. There are two styles of brushgear, graphite, which is robust, but inefficient electrically and mechanically, and precious metal, which is more delicate, but works better.

Hope you are now an expert! Have a good weekend.



Kind regards

Jon Pippard
Sales and Applications Engineer

Maxxon1
Maxxon2
Maxxon3
Maxxon4
Maxxon5

Maxxon6





NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by nevw
Offline audiopip  
#61 Posted : 02 March 2010 08:10:02(UTC)
audiopip


Joined: 24/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Melbourne
Wonderful, thank you.

I should know to read the instructions..but I'm an engineer....Scared
Offline audiopip  
#62 Posted : 15 March 2010 01:14:24(UTC)
audiopip


Joined: 24/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Melbourne
As a follow up to all this, we should have a small number of these motors in stock in Sydney as of around mid April. Please call our Sydney office if you need a quote on one of these. The number is (02) 9476 4777.

Thanks

Jon Pippard
Offline audiopip  
#63 Posted : 22 April 2010 06:39:18(UTC)
audiopip


Joined: 24/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Melbourne
As a follow up to the followup...!

Dave now has his new 286229 maxon motor but has experienced some problems fitting it. At the moment it is not 100% clear what happened, but it seems some deformation of the end face may have occured which has caused the motor to bind up. Here is some guidance for anyone following Daves lead...

The absolute max allowable screw penetration is 2.35mm. With the Marklin screws and gearbox the available thread length is 2mm, so it should be safe just to screw the gearbox to the motor. However, the screws are thread forming types (the motor holes are plain blind holes in the plastic end cap)and so it is easier to use one of the screws as a 'tap' to get a start on the threads before fitting the gearbox.

If you do this you must only use 3 turns on the screw maximum, otherwise you run the risk of distorting the motor end cap which may then bear on the winding.

Meanwhile I have cobbled together a motor using Daves old front plate and casing, with the new winding and brushgear (don't try this at home...ThumbDown ), fitted the gearbox, tested and returned to him. I await his appraisal of this and meanwhile we will investigate the problem further.

If necessary we will ship him another motor.
Offline nevw  
#64 Posted : 22 April 2010 11:16:57(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
That is great Service far beyond what is normally expected.
Thanks from all.

NN
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline Webmaster  
#65 Posted : 22 April 2010 23:26:07(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
Fantastic service indeed, and also invaluable to have a knowledgeable Maxxon guy aboard in the forum. Hope you will continue to hang around here, Jon...

Since many of us live in Europe (a bit selfish here, I admit...Blushing ), where do we turn to when we get similar motor problems? Is there any "model railroad motor guy" who knows the stuff as well as you, Jon?

I ask since getting the motor as a spare part from M is so darn expensive...

Once again, not the level of service we are used to as mrr fans - and that is a top positive remark for Jon and Maxxon Australia! ThumpUp
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline nevw  
#66 Posted : 23 April 2010 02:09:32(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
I have told you before Juhan,
All of the good guys are in the best part of the world. Thats us . The bit below the equator.LOL LOL LOL
ThumpUp ThumpUp
NN
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline audiopip  
#67 Posted : 21 May 2010 09:31:16(UTC)
audiopip


Joined: 24/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 29
Location: Melbourne
Well thanks guys! We do try to be the best, we don't always succeed of course Crying

I have not heard from Dave B since he got back from his holiday. Dave is it working? Are you happy?

BTW we still have stock of this motor in Sydney if anyone needs one. Just be very careful when fitting.

Some tips

1) The motor is attached to the gearbox by thread forming screws. It does not have threads cut in the mounting holes as supplied.

2) So you can use a mounting screw to tap the holes BEFORE attempting to mount the gearbox, BUT if you do you must not screw this screw in by more than about 2mm, otherwise it can damage the motor. So my recommendation is three turns maximum.

3) Once you have started the screws, and begun to form a thread, then you can bolt the gearbox to the motor, and the thickness of the bracket prevents the screw entering too far.

Of course, maxon only supplies this motor to Marklin, so we would not be aware of the assembly issues. Thanks to Daves B's pioneering work we now are!

Thanks again.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by audiopip
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