Hello,

I am now in the process of building a new layout using C-track. I will use a plywood board for the base. However, I would like to be able to move the layout in the event that I later move into a (hopefully) bigger place. Therefore, I have concluded that a modular benchwork structure would be ideal.
Has anyone of you built a layout in a similar way? What is the best way to install the track lying over the plywood base joints? Is it recommendable to saw the C-track at the plywood section joints? Would it be better to leave the track loose (unscrewed) to be able to lift up and remove some single track pieces, so that the different plywood sections can be moved?
Thank in advance you for your comments.

I think it is absolutely wiser to have loose track pieces to connect between modules, rather than to saw the C-track into pieces. It is very difficult to keep the seams between modules perfectly aligned with the fraction-of-mm precision required to avoid derailing.

Armando,

First have a look at my website because I'm one of those people who is building a modular layout. Using the same principles I'm also involved in building a club layout.

The trick is be extremely accurate in building your modules. Also build your modules in sizes which are the same as the track-grid. This means in metric measurements, increments of 36 centimetre (36, 72, 108, 144). When using the slender (i known it's the wrong term) points the minimal module size is 108 cm.

But, I also use the smallest part (24064 = 64,7 mm) as an protector rails. With this I try to say that at both ends of a module a put one of these small parts. I the case of damage they are more easily replaced.

An example:

A standard module consist of the following elements

24064, 24188, 24172, 24188, 24172, 24064

A total length of 6,4 + 36 + 36 + 6,4 = 84,8 centimetre

Now how to create a clean connection. The biggest plus of C-rails are the connection "nooses". Make sure that there is a straight fit along the module side plate and the rails. The C-rails "noose" has to extending from the side of the module! Have look at the following pictures, that makes al clear. One more tip remove the "snapping" extensions on both the sides of the noose (as can be seen on the first picture). This makes the taking apart of the modules a lot easier.





The tracks are glued to the roadbed (use something like liquid nails) and additional secured at the ends using C-rail screws.