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Offline Nuno  
#1 Posted : 20 November 2009 21:53:19(UTC)
Nuno


Joined: 27/05/2003(UTC)
Posts: 235
Location: ,
Some years ago I built a roundshed (no. 7288). Now that I am redoing my layout, I plan to build a second one to have a nice roundshed with 6 locomotives, around the turntable. However, to put both together I will have to unglue one of the side walls. Is this feasible without damaging the construction? What kind of product to unglue? Or I do better by simply building the second one and leaving a space (for one or two tracks) in between? It's certainly easier, but not so nice, I think.

Please let me know your opinion.

Cheers,

Nuno Smile
Offline Ian555  
#2 Posted : 20 November 2009 21:57:27(UTC)
Ian555

Scotland   
Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 20,293
Location: Scotland
Hi Nuno,
You could always sell the one you have and buy 2 new ones.
Might work out better in the long run.
Ian.
Offline davemr  
#3 Posted : 21 November 2009 00:28:35(UTC)
davemr


Joined: 09/02/2009(UTC)
Posts: 983
Location: ,
Possible to remove walls etc using a Dremmel and a fine cutting disc that you use for cutting track. Try on a spare bit of plastic first to get the right speed for the drill.

dave
davemr
Offline mmrcnzjohn  
#4 Posted : 21 November 2009 00:45:10(UTC)
mmrcnzjohn

New Zealand   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 558
Location: ,
try using warm/hot water.

Depending on the glue this may work
Offline Darren W  
#5 Posted : 21 November 2009 02:49:57(UTC)
Darren W

Canada   
Joined: 01/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 643
Location: Alberta
Depends on the glue you used. Plastic glues can be solvent based and actually melt the plastic together in a sort of weld. No way to get that apart but cutting with a Dremel.

Good luck

Darren
Offline ozzman  
#6 Posted : 21 November 2009 03:01:17(UTC)
ozzman

Australia   
Joined: 23/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,828
Location: Sydney, Australia
With all due respect Nuno, if you have to ask if there's a way of unglueing plastic parts you'd be better off following Ian555's advice. Knowing the limitations of my modelling skills, that's certainly what I'd do biggrin
Gary
Z Scale
"Never let the prototype get in the way of a good layout"
Offline hxmiesa  
#7 Posted : 21 November 2009 10:50:47(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,594
Location: Spain
It must defantly be separated mechanically. (Dremel or saw)
I wouldnt worry too much; kit-bashing is easy and fun. Any minor defaults can be hided by weathering, vegetation or other imaginative constructions. (drainpipes, ladders, sheds...)
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline klinge-germany  
#8 Posted : 21 November 2009 15:34:49(UTC)
klinge-germany


Joined: 15/07/2003(UTC)
Posts: 260
Location: Hamburg,
hi Nuno,
Ian's advise is the best i think... if you have some space on your layout you can choose the current special autumn offer of FALLER, article no. 190186, which is derived from the formely available freilassing roundhouse model (ex-POLA). each set 190186 gives you a 3-stand shed and additionally 2 water hoses and a stationery crane, at the 'official' price of 30 euros. if you take into account the price of the former 5-stand freilassing shed and the accessories a very attractive offering, i just ordered 4 sets of them (with another remarkable rabate) to extend these 'old' sheds.
and your 7288 can be sold at ebay....on the other hand you need about 30% more space in one direction because this one is a 7.5 degree shed which in turn gives you a full loco length between the turntable and the shed.
alfred...with M since 1960...layout under construction (in mind...)
collecting M items - but not a collector...
editing posts only for tyops...uppps...typos
Offline rschaffr  
#9 Posted : 21 November 2009 16:21:43(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Nuno:

I have two of them sitting next to each other with all walls intact. It works for me. you might try it before you do any major deconstruction. Another option is to have the entrance track between the two sections.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline Nuno  
#10 Posted : 23 November 2009 17:35:58(UTC)
Nuno


Joined: 27/05/2003(UTC)
Posts: 235
Location: ,

Hi all

Thanks a lot for your tips. I glued the kit with UHU plastic. I found in the market, together with the glues, a product called "Unglue everything", I think I'll try that first, carefully. Or maybe the hot water first... The Dremel won't work in this case, the pieces are "dented", they match together like gears, you see...

To sell the kit is out of question, as you may know Maerklin does not sell it any more in redish colour, now it is yellow. I was lucky to still find a red one (it was the last one at my dealer).

Cheers,

Nuno Smile
Offline davemr  
#11 Posted : 23 November 2009 17:42:33(UTC)
davemr


Joined: 09/02/2009(UTC)
Posts: 983
Location: ,
Marklin roundhouse is made by Vollmer and should be available from any dealer in red. The only difference between Marklin and Vollmer will be Yellow for Marklin or Red for Vollmer. The Vollmer numbers are : 5754 or 5758 depending on the number of sheds you want. I expect Vollmer will be cheaper.
Rather than UHU you should try Faller Expert for gluing.

dave
davemr
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