Joined: 27/12/2006(UTC)
Posts: 65
Location: , PA
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Here are some pictures of a conversion I have just about finished. I have not tested it yet as I need to finish soldering the wires and updating my CS1 to DCC. The loc is a proto 2000 with DCC and sound. The two trucks are powered and there is virtually no room to mount a center slider. I disabled the rear truck to add the center slider and used a marklin wheelset from a freight car that happened to have the perfect diameter wheels. The axle bushings required drilling for the larger marklin axles. The conversion came out great and should run perfect on R1 K-track. I hand tested the loco on the turnouts and the original wheels derailed everytime. With the marklin wheelset it is perfect. Once I get teh ESU reload update I will comment on the running characteristics. Thanks to all that have posted conversions in the past, it really motivated my to do this. Check out the photos. Thanks, Phil As you can see there is no room for a slider!  Beautiful Proto 2000 F3! Lots of details  This is the majority of work, I used the suggestions from other conversions posted on this site, thanks!  Marklin wheelset, I drilled the original gears off I needed the plastic piece as it prevents the wheel flanges from hitting the sides of the truck.  This is the bottom cover that has the center section cut out. You still need the cover to secure thetwo halves together, it prevented me from having to glue them together.  Finished truck, yes the slider has plenty of room for those tall center studs on the K-track turnouts.  Edited by moderator 11 January 2011 22:07:01(UTC)
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Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
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Nice work. What's the white block that the slider is mounted on? |
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Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,908
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Sweet engine and nicely done! |
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Joined: 27/12/2006(UTC)
Posts: 65
Location: , PA
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by trainbuff
<br />Nice work. What's the white block that the slider is mounted on?
The slider is mounted to a piece of .250x .250 plastic. I didn't want to glue it together, incase I ever had a problem I want to be able to disassembly it. I used the original gear shafts to mount the plastic slider mount. I'm convinced you cannot have a good running machine on K track without using marklin wheels. That seems be be the most difficut part expecially for steam engines. I wish someone had a database for marklin wheels. Thanks, Phil
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Joined: 15/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,591
Location: Pennsylvania
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that's good work. I've got a few DC US locomotives I want to convert to 3-rail, including a Proto BL-2 in Western Maryland colors. Most of the rest are steam locomotives.
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Joined: 27/12/2006(UTC)
Posts: 65
Location: , PA
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by jonquinn
<br />that's good work. I've got a few DC US locomotives I want to convert to 3-rail, including a Proto BL-2 in Western Maryland colors. Most of the rest are steam locomotives.
I think you can always find a way to mount the slider, finding the right size wheels seems to be the biggest hurtle. I have heard some people modify the RP25 wheels by adding larger flanges, I have not tired that yet. I disabled one truck and the wheels do not have traction tires so I imagine I would have to add traction tires if I was pulling a large consist or ascending a steep grade. Fortunately, I have a 4ftx8ft layout with no grades. The loco is already weighted from the factory. If you have any questions during you conversions let me know. Phil
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 Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Great Job and, above all, very neat (the sign of a pro)!  I did exactly that for a number of US locos I converted in the past for some customers and myself For wheels I simply used Märklin original wheels (as used on the 3062 M F7 loco, I simply ordered them as spares), with adherence tires for the powered truck. The only really trick part of the whole exercise wass to install (brass) bushings in the M wheels, and drill them to the proper diameter(on a lathe). For good measure I also knurled the original axles before pressing the wheels back on. This was the guarantee that 1)the wheels would be mounted perfectly square 2)I could get away with wheel pick up springs 3)make sure the wheels wouldn't come off.  4)traction was at par with(or even better than)Marklin loks! Cheers |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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 Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,692 Location: United Kingdom
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Excellent work, What type of digital decoder for the model?
Keep posted soon. |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 27/12/2006(UTC)
Posts: 65
Location: , PA
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by jvuye<br />Great Job and, above all, very neat (the sign of a pro)! I did exactly that for a number of US locos I converted in the past for some customers and myself For wheels I simply used Märklin original wheels (as used on the 3062 M F7 loco, I simply ordered them as spares), with adherence tires for the powered truck. The only really trick part of the whole exercise wass to install (brass) bushings in the M wheels, and drill them to the proper diameter(on a lathe). For good measure I also knurled the original axles before pressing the wheels back on. This was the guarantee that 1)the wheels would be mounted perfectly square 2)I could get away with wheel pick up springs 3)make sure the wheels wouldn't come off. 4)traction was at par with(or even better than)Marklin loks! Cheers Yes, drilling the bushings was the trickey part, I was ready to order extras as I didn't think the first one would comeout correctly, but I got lucky. I did not knurl the axles, which sounds like a great idea. How did you know theF7 wheels would be the correct size? Does Marklin list the diameters somewhere? Thanks, Phil
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Joined: 27/12/2006(UTC)
Posts: 65
Location: , PA
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by steventrain
<br />Excellent work, What type of digital decoder for the model?
Keep posted soon.
The decoder came installed, its a Quantum DCC. I will post review when I get my CS1 reloaded. Thanks, Phil
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:
How did you know theF7 wheels would be the correct size?
Hi Phil, Well there is no magic trick about it : I happen to own "a few"  Märklin F7's and I just measured their wheels to make sure they fit! Quailty of M wheels is very consistent, no worry there. I just don't know now what the situation is in the US with Whalter's running the show on spares, but in the days of Marklin service in New Berlin, the spares service was impeccable: parts were delivered (promptly!!) in individual bags, with the item number printed on a nice Marklin logo label. Those were the days... |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 01/04/2009(UTC)
Posts: 157
Location: San Francisco, CA
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"knurled the original axles... "
What is knurling? |
Troy
San Francisco, USA
Marklin HO - all eras and everything. |
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 Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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Nice work, Phil.
Looking forward for the driving test report. |
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:
What is knurling?
Hi Troy Knurling is an operation usually performed on a lathe, by pressing a pair od cerrated wheels made of very hard steel against the axle. It creates little longitudinal grooves, by actually "displacing" material to form the grooves. It effectively *adds* a few hundreds of a mm to an axle, which is very useful to correct definitevely "loose wheels" problems on older locos. |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 01/04/2009(UTC)
Posts: 157
Location: San Francisco, CA
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Thank you, Jacque! Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by jvuye<br /> Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:
What is knurling?
Hi Troy Knurling is an operation usually performed on a lathe, by pressing a pair od cerrated wheels made of very hard steel against the axle. It creates little longitudinal grooves, by actually "displacing" material to form the grooves. It effectively *adds* a few hundreds of a mm to an axle, which is very useful to correct definitevely "loose wheels" problems on older locos. |
Troy
San Francisco, USA
Marklin HO - all eras and everything. |
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 Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY
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Nice job, Phil - congratulations [:p][:p][:p]
Finally a F7 in NYC livery matching our system. Please can we have some pics of the assembled loco ...
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I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators.
AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only.
CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ...
Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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