Joined: 01/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 839 Location: PT
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Hi!
I'm having problems to keep my track clean. Does anyone have any home made plans or ideas to create something that helps with this cleaning process? I don't feel like buying something expensive (for me it is) from Lux. Or maybe somebody knows about some other less expensive brand..I don't know...Can somebody give me a help here?
Thank you all in advance |
Regards FMS |
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Joined: 08/06/2002(UTC) Posts: 1,843 Location: Norway
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Pål Paulsen Märklin Spur 1 Digital, epoche 3 |
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Hi FMS, The best solution is a cheap one. It is made by Noch. It clips on the axle of any freight car. I will post a photo as soon as I find it in another thread. regards Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
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Joined: 09/02/2009(UTC) Posts: 983 Location: ,
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A track cleaning rubber is the best way to keep them clean I find. It costs little and lasts a long time and is quick. Also if you run trains on a regular basis then C track hardly ever needs cleaning. |
davemr |
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
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Joined: 01/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 839 Location: PT
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Kimbal, Dave and Pal,
Thank You for the inputs. Maybe, if there's no other way, the solution might be the Marklin car. I've got those Noch felts but they don't seem to be very efective due to the fact that they don't have any weight, so they don't produce any type of effort against the track. About the rubber, I bought one and I tried it but in my opinion it's no good. The reason: it produces almost the same efect as sand paper. When track comes out of factory it comes with a certain finishing,the metal is totaly smooth and flat, when we use abrasive products we ruin that finishing and dirt starts to grab and get into the metal easely, the cleaing process will be more dificult from here. |
Regards FMS |
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,764 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Hi FMS, Is it really dirty track? I found that extra red/brown connection wires at various locations on my track solved many of my contact problems. regards Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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FMS, I would tend to agree with you. The track rubber is my last resort when track has been unused for so long that it has started corroding. The best solution I have found is to run your trains every day, that way you don't get too much dust mixing with the greasy deposits on the rails, which is the main problem causing loss of electrical contact.
I have been considering Kimball's suggestion of the "Noch solution", but I can see that that will only work with very regular running. The Marklin wagon is another possibility, but I don't see it being much better than an ordinary wagon with a Noch pad.
When I find a patch of track where locos hesitate, I run a clean cloth or paper towel along the top of the rails, and this usually wipes off the offending "muck". This is harder to do over turnouts, and even harder if there is catenary. |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Joined: 01/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 839 Location: PT
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Hi Kimball, Hi Ray!
Yes it's realy dirt. I only have bad conections sometimes in certain areas and with certain locos...the Divas, the others couldn't care less.. I'm using C-track, so I don't have too much of those "events". What I do notice, despite of what some users might say about C track, is that there's dirt. When I need to clean usually I need 3 pieces of rag to totally remove the black dirt from the top of the rails. What makes me concerned is the fact that part of it, even if doesn't represent bad conection all the time,goes to the machines and rolling stock wheels. Maybe I'm beeing a bit weird with this, but I like to keep everything in perfect conditions. |
Regards FMS |
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Joined: 09/02/2009(UTC) Posts: 983 Location: ,
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Remember also to clean the loco wheels and rolling stock. And yes I use my track rubber for that as well. It does no harm to track or wheels (I use the Roco one) and if used once a month or two will keep everything running. The Noch pads etc are as said too lightweight and the Marklin effort would need to be run continually all over the layout to make a difference. My advice is dont spend cash on somedthing that you dont need but rather buy a coach or loco. |
davemr |
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Joined: 19/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 348 Location: , Florida
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I use a Masonite pad mounted to the bottom of a couple of cars... ...with maghnets on the antiques...    ...and with nails through the bottom of cheap cars.  You don't have to attach them, just allow them to "float" in the holes to go with the rise and fall of the track. It's a trick that's been around for many years and only costs a few pennies a car. I run one in every train and rarely have to clean mainline track. |
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Joined: 06/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 255 Location: Lisboa, Portugal
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Hi FMS
I use a Roco car with a cleaning rubber, followed by a car with the noch utensils and it works fine both in C and M-track...
I'll try to take some photos and post them for you to see :D |
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Joined: 12/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 548 Location: Maryland, USA
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If you have easy access and not too much track you could try a product used to removed adhesive. It is called Goo-gone here in the US. A bit on a kitchen towel goes a long way, I have found it to be very useful. No abrasion, does not harm plastic or metal (or carpet which is good for my carpetbahn). I do rub the rails after the goo gone has been applied. I have read (discussion about pottery) that some people think an oily residue is left but I have not noticed that.
Not sure if it is available for you but you may have a regional equivalent.
John
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Joined: 01/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 839 Location: PT
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John I do that already. Sometimes I use a rag ith WD40 and after I use a few (without any solvents) just to clean everything. But my idea is to do it each time the track is used, so I need somekind of wagon for that purpose.
Bob, tks for the tip. Today is sunday, I go to vote ( here we're voting for the european parliament), and there's a toy fair that I'm going to try to find. After I might construct a cleaning car. |
Regards FMS |
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Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,252 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Hi Kimball, You mentioned the connecting of Red/Brown wires around the layout. Can you please tell me how to exactly attach the wires. I know how to attach to the C track with the small spade connectors, but where does the other end of the wires go? To the transformer, but exactly how? If there are several connections to the layout, then there would be several sets of wires coming back to the transformer.  It's been 40 years since I study "Electricity" at university - if I'd known it was necessary to setup my train layout I would have been more interested in my studies.  Regards Greg |
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by youngagain<br />Hi Kimball, You mentioned the connecting of Red/Brown wires around the layout. Can you please tell me how to exactly attach the wires. I know how to attach to the C track with the small spade connectors, but where does the other end of the wires go? To the transformer, but exactly how? If there are several connections to the layout, then there would be several sets of wires coming back to the transformer.  It's been 40 years since I study "Electricity" at university - if I'd known it was necessary to setup my train layout I would have been more interested in my studies.  Regards Greg greg start the first red/brown wire length to the piece of track that the power feed wires come in. run the new pair down the track. approx 2 M and connect to a set of connectors in apiece of track. at the other end of that track connect a new pair of feeder wires and run down the track and connect and connect another pair on the other end of that track and so on. hope that helps remember red goes to the terminal marked B. nn |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA
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Iuse acetone on a rag and lightly drag it on the tracks to avoid catching as best I can. Cleans great - never seen any harm to tracks. Track not ballasted. Eric
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Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,252 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Hi Nev, Just to clarify - there are no wires going back to the transformer. The initial pair of wires go from the CS2 to the track and then the connections are in parrallel. I make a red wire with a spade connector on eack end and the same with the brown wire. Go down the track layout about 2 metres from where the CS2 connection is, and then attach one end of the red wire to the red side of the track, then go another 2 metres or so and connect the other end. Is this it? Sorry to be so particular, it just doesn't seem to be explained to clearly to me. Don't say it - "as thick as a brick"!!!  |
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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Greg, No problems. Nothing back to the transformer. Ok again. Make up sets of wires One red one brown approx 2 M long with spade connectors on each end. On the piece of track where track power comes from the MS , CS or the old 6012, on the other end on the empty spades connect the set of wires that you have made up (RED and Brown)to the respective spades. (B=RED) Now go approx 2 Metres down track (Best below the track) and then connect the two wires Red and Brown to a set of connectors on one end of the track. ON THAT piece of track and on the other end's set of spades connect a new length of 2 wires (Red/brown) and connect this new set of wires to their respective set of Spades Red & Brown. now go down track again approx 2 metres and connect to a set of spades. on the other end connect a new set of wires. If you are using Marklin Spade Connectors they are Ok (Expensive.)and a tight Fit. If using connectors from Dick Smiths they are a bit loose and need to be soldered. Nothing back to power supplies/transformers. This is minimising voltage drop through the track connectors (not that it is much, but on a big layout with lots of turnouts it can be a small problem. This is the easy cure.
Another way is to run the 2 wires around under table. They need to be on some form of riser to have the wires about 40mm below table commencing from the Power-in track. Then at regular intervilles bare the wire. solder on a small length with a spade connector on the end. feed up and connect.
Nev |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 14/07/2009(UTC) Posts: 83 Location: ,
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I just use plain kitchen paper/towel to clean my tracks (I don't know the right English word, Moltonel is a brand of what I mean). It cleans quiet good and you can clearly see when the tracks are clean.
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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I think it would be pointless to a certain degree, to clean your track everytime it shows some discolouring. Dirt or grease just does'nt fall from the sky like snow or rain. You have to make sure you clean your wheels first otherwise you'll be cleaning your tracks day in day out. Electrotren used to make a Shell cleaning car. It had a springloaded cleaning pad (1 soft, 1 abrasive). The tankcar itself, you area able to fill it with a cleaning soltion and regulate the flow by adjusting the flow needle. The cleaning solution itself, drop by drop landed onto the cleaning pad (soft). I have 2 of these havy tank cars (tank = brass), 1 with the soft and 1 with the abrasive pad.
regards., John |
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Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,252 Location: Sydney, NSW
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Thanks Nev. Now I know. Fortunately, at the moment I'm not having any significant voltage drop, however, as the layout enlargest, I'll need to do this wiring. BTW - does anyone know much about the LUX vacuum cleaning car - apart from it being very expensive? If it is as good as they say, which model should I get for the C track? |
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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YES it is great. I have the Vacuum and scrubber (Trackcleaner) combination. OR if you only want the track cleaner get the model with the decoder. with accumulator and digital decoder (Article 9020) Vac: with Faulhaber engine and Märklin digital decoder (Article 8820) COmbination vacuum cleaner wagon and track and overhead wire grinding wagon for H0 scale, equipped with one decoder for ... two-wire alternating current system Märklin with Märklin decoder (Article 9620) Web site: http://www.lux-modellbau.de/html_uk/gleis.htmAvailable from Mike or Lokshop. Nev |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 01/01/2008(UTC) Posts: 874 Location: Scotland
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Do these track cleaners really work. I have both Marklin's Railcar and wagon with a pad underneath and neither really help much. I always end up using a piece of balsa wood dipped in IPA and it gets really black after a few rubs around the track. I know they two items are Z scale; maybe HO works better.
Chris |
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