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Offline Writhdar  
#1 Posted : 12 March 2009 04:01:24(UTC)
Writhdar


Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
The telex coupler on the rear of the tender of a BR 50 functions (re up & down movement when engaged/disengaged) but will not hold onto a car for more than a few track lengths. It doesn't matter how the other car has been attached - it just won't hold on.

1. can the coupler be raised higher so as to make it more difficult for the coupler of another car to diengage?

2. can the coupler be tilted up & away from the other car?

3. how can I get access to the coupler? The rear truck on the tender blocks access and there is a red plastic piece that blocks access to the screw holding the truck on - how would I remove the red piece without breaking it?

4. can I get access to the coupler from the top - by lifting off the tender body? If so, how do I lift the tender body off?

5. Can I replace the telex with a relex coupler? If so, how do I do that?

6. is there any simple solution to keeping the cars coupled to the tender?

Thanks Dan
Offline Darren W  
#2 Posted : 12 March 2009 05:29:52(UTC)
Darren W

Canada   
Joined: 01/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 643
Location: Alberta
I am having similar problems with the Br50 from my 29821 starter set. It looks to me that the coupler is hanging low and needs to be raised up. I have not figured out how to do it yet. I will verify it with a coupler gauge when I get a chance. I hope someone has some tips otherwise I'll let you know if I find any solutions.

Cheers...
Darren
Offline kimballthurlow  
#3 Posted : 12 March 2009 07:08:16(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,669
Location: Brisbane, Australia
With what type of controller are you activating the mechanism?
I have the same set, and it works fine.

regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
Offline haxpet  
#4 Posted : 12 March 2009 09:10:05(UTC)
haxpet


Joined: 17/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 198
Location: Finland, Åland
Same here, my BR 50 from starterset 29820 (230V) is still working fine and holding on to the wagons ok.

But I haven't used mine so much.

But when I attach wagons, it might work right away, it's a bit tight for it to hook on, maybe it depends on which of the wagons I want to attach.
Märklin, 3R, Digital (system), C-Track, favourit loco: Baureihe 103 137-6
My homepage: http://home.aland.net/mi...da/MR/modelrailroad.html
I will buy Märklin 4644 BP tankerwagons that have the original box and are in good condition. (No broken details)
Offline RayF  
#5 Posted : 12 March 2009 09:58:26(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
I have the same type of telex coupler on my Br44 37885. It only really works at all with Marklin close couplers. If I try to use it with relex or any other type it just won't hold on to it.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline Writhdar  
#6 Posted : 12 March 2009 15:13:34(UTC)
Writhdar


Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
String theory!

The problem is that the coupler droops - hangs too low. I first tried brute force - tried to bend it but that didn't work - may have actually hurt. I then used thin black thread - underneath the coupler and tied to the tender bumpers. This works fine for holding onto the cars - they can be uncoupled with an uncoupling track - then recoupled the normal way. But the telex doesn't work as the string comes accross the top of the coupler on its way to the bumper. This blocks the full motion of the telex.

I would like a more elegant approach, such as little springs, but I'm not sure of attachment points. I might try a thin black wire going from a bumper, underneath the coupler and then to the other bumper without going over the top - the issue will be maintaining enough tautness as I tie it down.

I did remove the tender shell but the telex is underneath the frame. I would like to remove the rear wheel truck - to get at where the coupler is attached to the frame - but I was unsuccessful in removing the red plastic piece that goes over the wheel truck - I did some gentle prying but couldn't dislodge it.

Dan
Offline gachar001  
#7 Posted : 12 March 2009 16:22:21(UTC)
gachar001

India   
Joined: 29/04/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,391
Location: Chennai
You could try to bend the coupler of the first car that attaches to the loco downwards and not mess with the telex coupler of the loco.
Gautham
Atlanta, GA USA
Offline Writhdar  
#8 Posted : 12 March 2009 19:13:53(UTC)
Writhdar


Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
I don't think that (lowering coupler on adjacent car) will solve the problem. The angle of the tender's coupler will make it easy for another coupler "ring" to slide off it.

The string approach works functionally - I put the loco through high speed runs over switches, bumps, rises, etc and the cars stayed on. Now, I have to figure out a nicer solution.

Dan
Offline trainbuff  
#9 Posted : 12 March 2009 20:58:32(UTC)
trainbuff


Joined: 26/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 507
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
I don't know if the telex on a br 41 is the same as the br 50, but my br 41 telex seems a little low. It was a problem trying to couple some wagons and on uneven track. As the tender crossed a dip in the track the wagons uncoupled from the tender. I shimmed the track and fixed that. One day I'll get a coupler gage and adjust all my couplers, so I'm interested in how you solve this.

On a similar topic, one day I want to make a spring to center the coupler on my br 86, so when it comes out of a curve the telex is pointing straight ahead.
Offline Writhdar  
#10 Posted : 12 March 2009 22:04:29(UTC)
Writhdar


Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
The string/wire approach is a definite but inelegant solution - if I hadn't had the string also go over the coupler, I would have full telex functionality. The string is not noticeable - you have to deliberately look for it to see it. I can couple any cars I want in the "normal" fashion - i.e., "run" the loco & tender into them. I can uncouple cars from the tender with a uncoupling track.

Unless I can get at removing the rear wheel truck - so I can access where the telex coupler is attached to the frame, I will eventually replace the string with thin wire (just picked up some 28 gauge black wire) and see if I can avoid coming over the top of the coupler. Right now, I'm just enjoying the loco pulling cars.

As for a "coupler gauge" - how does it adjust the coupler to the correct height?

Dan
Offline Darren W  
#11 Posted : 12 March 2009 22:05:29(UTC)
Darren W

Canada   
Joined: 01/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 643
Location: Alberta
My photography skills need some work but I tried to get a couple of pictures showing the problem with the coupler.

This photo shows the Telex coupler resting on the gauge at the height I believe it needs to be.

UserPostedImage

This photo shows how low the coupler hangs.

UserPostedImage

There is a lot of up and down play in the coupler. You can see the difference using the bumpers as a reference. If anyone has had luck adjusting this please let us know. I am going to attempt an adjustment and I will let you know how I make out.

Dan, can you confirm this is the same problem you have?

Cheers...
Darren
Offline Writhdar  
#12 Posted : 12 March 2009 22:52:35(UTC)
Writhdar


Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
Darren,

That is exactly the problem I have. The coupler has an outgoing downwards slope from where it is attached to the frame. Some sort of supporting bracket by the wheel truck would solve the problem - and not be visible unless you were a praire dog that just burrowed up through the track bed. The truck access issue again seems to be the factor precluding this approach, however.

Dan
Offline Darren W  
#13 Posted : 13 March 2009 05:57:40(UTC)
Darren W

Canada   
Joined: 01/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 643
Location: Alberta
Dan,
I did some work on my BR50 and here are some answers that I have figured out.

The red pieces on the trucks can be removed by gently pulling them away at the ends. There is a small square tab holding them on.

Remove the tender body by gently prying out the sides. There are 2 large slots and four small slots. The tabs holding it together are at the small slots.

Here are some pictures of the tender being disassembled.

UserPostedImage

UserPostedImage

The 2 screws that hold the trucks on connect through to a metal plate that the decoder and speaker are attached to. Sandwiched between the metal plate and the chassis of the tender are the plastic springs that allow the coupler to flex. There appears to be too much room for them and they have some slack that allows them to move up and down causing the coupler to droop.

UserPostedImage

My solution to try is adding a piece of cardboard to act as a shim to remove some of that play.

UserPostedImage

This seems to have removed most of the up and down movement of the coupler.

My observations during testing show that the coupler has improved. However the Relex couplers have to be well aligned and maybe even a little bit low for them to work with this telex coupler. This design seems to work much better with the Marklin close couplers. I never noticed the problem since my starter kit has all close couplers but when I picked up some older used coaches the problem appeared. I will be doing more testing but in the end I may have to concede that some cars will not run well with this locomotive.

Cheers...
Darren
Offline Writhdar  
#14 Posted : 13 March 2009 15:12:09(UTC)
Writhdar


Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
Darren,

Thank you very much. I will try what you have done in the near future - am still enjoying the loco being able to haul cars and want to play that out. I will also look into getting a close coupler & attach it to a car to see if that also helps (other contributors to this thread mentioned less issues with close coupler cars).

When you removed the wheel truck plastic cover, did it look like a bracket or thin wire could be used to limit the coupler's downward movement? Were there any suitable attachment points or would it (bracket or wire) simply get in the way and cause problems?

I also assume from your work that removing the wheel truck to access where the coupler is attached to the underside of the frame doesn't offer a fix - you still have to acess the attachment point from the top side (decoder metal plate & top of frame)?

Thanks again Dan
Offline Darren W  
#15 Posted : 13 March 2009 17:52:59(UTC)
Darren W

Canada   
Joined: 01/01/2007(UTC)
Posts: 643
Location: Alberta
Dan,
The problem with a wire or bracket to hold the coupler up is that it may interfere with the side to side motion of the coupler. There is very little room in between the trucks as well. In my third photo you see a Y shaped piece of plastic. This moves to allow the coupler to slide to the sides. The Y piece of platic seemed to have too much room allowing it to wobble up and down causing the coupler to sag.

I'll do more testing and let you know how well it performs.

Darren

Offline Writhdar  
#16 Posted : 11 April 2009 21:20:44(UTC)
Writhdar


Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
First of all, I wanted to thank everyone for their help. And Gautham, your suggestion to lower the relex coupler at the connection point, which I didn't want to do, is what I may do to connect my cars, which are all relex, to new locos (I recently got a GG1 on ebay and have the close-coupler - relex problem here also). What I thought was simply a "problem" with the BR 50's telex is more widespread.

I've been mulling over what appears to be the close coupler - relex coupler difficulty. It seems to be primarily caused by a height difference. I don't think I want to convert all my cars to close couplers so I'm thinking of having designated "transition cars" - either by simply lowering the relex at one end or doing a conversion at one end. (In Z gauge, MTL has transition cars with a MTL coupler on one end and a Marklin on the other end.)

Dan
Offline WelshMatt  
#17 Posted : 11 April 2009 23:10:38(UTC)
WelshMatt


You have been a member since:: 06/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,345
Location: ,
I have noticed the CC/Relex height difference too. In my experience the close couplers will connect to each other reliably (providing they are are both centred and on straight track) as will the Relex, but coupling the two types often requires a helping hand as otherwise the loop on the close coupler just tends to hit the buffing plate on the Relex coupler, rather than lifting up and over the hook.
Matt from Wales.

When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality
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