I have alot of older-version M-track overhead masts (part number 7009, with a nut fixing it to the M-track base) that I'd like to use with K-track. It looks like the easiest option is to flatten the M-track clip at the end, and then just slide the base below the cork or Merkur roadbed. However, I have some reservations about this because if I ever wanted to use these masts again with M-track, I'd have to bend the clips back to the original form, and risk breaking the clip due to metal fatigue.

I think these mast bases have been out of production for some time now, so I'm not sure how difficult or expensive that would be to replace them. Also, in general, I hesitate when modifying anything old.

Does anyone have any alternate suggestions?

Nice solution! If you take the hexagonal part of the same thickness as the baseplate with the tracks it can even be done without glue, and with some small screws.

I assume your eh 'thing' is M3 size?

I have used these masts with C-track myself. I didn't care much about damaging and have cut of the clip, but kept the base itself. I used small screws to permanently attach the masts.

Bert

Is the thing the securing nut from a PC port?

I haven't used the method, just came up with the idea when I saw the question. It is some other distance nut from a PC. The ones for the PC ports are shorter.

I'm not the person who is asking about solutions about this. It is Marty who is asking...

But anyway, I don't think a balsa wood base could be made thin enough to make it possible to attach the mast on it like on the original metal base. The screw in the bottom of the mast is too short for that. Using glue is something I considered being outside the scope of the original question, since Marty does not want to make any irreversible change to the masts and it is difficult to find a glue that can be removed without traces and still is strong enough.

You could of course manufacture new bases from metal. That would work, I think, but there is some work involved in doing that.

Welcome Marty.

Let us know how it goes.

Another idea I'm tinkering with is to make a base out of either plastic or brass "c" channel stock. If I used 3/16" channel stock (the flanges of the channel are 3/16"), that would be the same thickness as the standard HO scale cork roadbed. I could lay down a roadbed using this cork, and remove sections where the masts will be placed. Then, on top of this, lay a second layer of cork roadbed thereby capturing the channels. The channels could be adjusted both in and out and side to side, for perfect alignment with the track center and contact wire length. 3/16" shims of any sort (wood, foam, etc.) could also be used instead of the cork as well. Or, milling a 3/16" deep slot in the baseboard would work, too; it would just require more planning. The reason to use channel stock instead of just a flat piece of sheetmetal means that the fastening nut under the mast won't need any clearance - the legs of the channel are deeper than the thickness of the washer and nut. Also, the channel stock is signifigantly stiffer that just a flat piece of plastic or metal. Flimsy base = flimsy mast.

Comments, anyone?

Marty,

As the original M Track masts are pretty hard to come by, you may be able to get a good price for the ones you have. You can then replace them with the more modern version or with the equivalent masts still made by Electrotren (Spain) which are identical to the ones from Maerklin.

Regards

Mike C

There's no way I would part with my older-version masts; I love the zig-zag lattice . And, they go better with my era III electrics (110, 140, 194). A few years ago I did buy a few Electrotren masts to test out. I was impressed with the quality and especially the price. Too bad they don't make a zig-zag lattice version.

I've still been experimenting with alternate ways to mount my masts with K-track, and I've found something that is really cheap, and may work just fine: Hardware stores sell something called "water heater strapping". It is a strip of galvinized sheetmetal about 3/4 inch wide with pre-punched holes. The strip is sold in a roll (maybe 15 feet long?). I just cut off about a 3 inch strip, made sure it laid flat, and then bolted my mast to it through the smaller of the pre-punched holes. Then, I slide that under the cork roadbed. You do need some relief on the baseboard for the protruding nut of the mast, but that's easy enough to accomplish with a drill and a spade bit. But what I'm also thinking of doing is putting down a layer of 3/16 inch thick indoor/outdoor carpeting on the baseboard first. The pile (carpet side) would face the baseboard, and the vinyl backing of the carpet would face up. After putting a flat board with some weights on the carpet, and letting it set overnight, a smooth, level surface will be ready for the cork roadbed. Between the cork and the carpet backing will go the sheetmetal mast base - slide it in just like a bookmark, and adust it left-right and in-out as necessary. Since the carpet is 3/16 inch above the baseboard, there's no problem with the protruding nut of the mast. Plus, I get additional sound dampening from the carpet.

By the way, I measured the contact wire height with this arrangement, and it comes in at 66-67mm, which is just about right.

This is just another one of my (maybe outlandish [:o)]) ideas ... ...nothing has been decided yet.