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Offline sudibarba  
#1 Posted : 09 August 2008 07:14:03(UTC)
sudibarba

United States   
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
Ronson ligter fluid (napha) is the best thing I have found to clean motors.
Eric
Offline xxup  
#2 Posted : 09 August 2008 11:25:01(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,594
Location: Australia
I use it to clean my tracks too..
Adrian
UserPostedImage
Australia flag by abFlags.com
Offline steventrain  
#3 Posted : 09 August 2008 12:14:39(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,692
Location: United Kingdom
I also cleaning the tracks and wheels.
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
Offline sudibarba  
#4 Posted : 10 August 2008 06:02:02(UTC)
sudibarba

United States   
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
I don't mean to insult anyones intelligence, but I think I saw some earlier posts about cleaning motors. I simply take the motor apart, and in the case of a diesel or most electrics, I put it in a plastic bowl. I put some lighter fluid in and tilt the bowl and rock it back and forth. Most steam require an aluminum tray of fitting size. I wash the motor covers at the same time.
Eric
Offline sudibarba  
#5 Posted : 10 August 2008 06:05:23(UTC)
sudibarba

United States   
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by steventrain
<br />I also cleaning the tracks and wheels.


I wipe my M tracks with acetone on a rag. Haven't seen any problem with paint yet. Dries real quick and cuts anything.
Eric
Offline Ozrailman  
#6 Posted : 29 August 2008 13:36:24(UTC)
Ozrailman


Joined: 23/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 18
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Thanks sudibarba USA,I was wondering what would replace some products we used to by in Australia,such as"Shellite","Dry Cleaning Fluid" etc. I found your suggestion whilst looking through the HO Site. Thanks from Oxrailman OwenRobinson
Owen
Offline RayF  
#7 Posted : 29 August 2008 14:17:13(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,870
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
I use electrical contact cleaner spray. It just washes off all the accumulated "gunk" and leaves everything shiny and clean.

Ray
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline dntower85  
#8 Posted : 02 September 2008 18:27:37(UTC)
dntower85

United States   
Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,218
Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Ozrailman
<br />Thanks sudibarba USA,I was wondering what would replace some products we used to by in Australia,such as"Shellite","Dry Cleaning Fluid" etc. I found your suggestion whilst looking through the HO Site. Thanks from Oxrailman OwenRobinson


This type of dry cleaning solution is very close to what I use for cleaning automotive parts called "brake clean" designed for removing grease and dirt from brake parts, but depending on the blend it can be harmful to plastic and paint.
There are two types of brake clears on the market in the US, the environmentally friendly (green can) one destroys plastic on contact. So I use the less enviro friendly red can.

I clean my track with electrical contact cleaner spray but I do spray just a little Brake cleaner on a rag and clean just the top of rail in areas where I have a grade in the track and it cuts all the grease so wheels will not slip.
DT
Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's.
Offline hxmiesa  
#9 Posted : 02 September 2008 19:34:35(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,594
Location: Spain
Maybe a little sidetracked, but...;
The other day I needed something strong to clean off traces of a mix of adhesive and wheel-crud. As I dont have any lighterfluid, I applied a little WD40 on a cloth, and whiped the track clean.
The result was fantastic! I have never seen so easy and effective cleaning. BUT I have always refrained from using WD40 om my layout, as I have heard bad things about (leaving residues or something) What exactly _IS_ the drawbacks with using WD40???
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline jonquinn  
#10 Posted : 02 September 2008 20:12:42(UTC)
jonquinn


Joined: 15/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,591
Location: Pennsylvania
don't use acetone on K or C tracks.

I think the only problem with WD is the potential for the film to collect fine dust. as long as its a thin film, it should be OK. I use it on the cast iron tops of my woodworking equipment, like table saws and jointer. I wipe off most excess and don't see too much dust accumulation - and my woodshop is a dusty place, as I don't have a very powerful dust collector yet.
I also use a product called Boeshield - I apply it a couple times a year does a vey good job at preventing rust in the winter. It might be useful for protecting your tracks against oxidation. It was formulated by some people at Boeing many years ago, and makes a very thin protective layer to seal the metal, and slow oxidation (they originally did this on aluminum). It does make the surface slick - its probably some sort of micro-cystalline wax or carnuba, so maybe it would negatively affect traction. I don't know/think if the film would be thick enough to affect conductivity.
Offline Ozrailman  
#11 Posted : 03 September 2008 14:24:52(UTC)
Ozrailman


Joined: 23/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 18
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
Good news for Australian Modellers.I found the well known old product "Shellite" at my local hardware store. The big chains don't stock it and I thought it had disappeared. Much much cheaper than lighter fluid.au$5.58 for a i Litre bottle. During and after WW2 Petrol rationing caused some people to seek Shellite for motor car fuel,worked real good but price much higher than the gas you could not get.I worked in a general store ar the time,many a bottle got some guy home in his jalopy.
Owen
Offline sudibarba  
#12 Posted : 03 September 2008 19:00:11(UTC)
sudibarba

United States   
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
I have not confirmed this, but I believe lighter fluid is napha. This can be bought in gallon cans at the hardware store far cheaper than the Ronson lighter fluid cans.
Eric
Offline hgk  
#13 Posted : 13 September 2008 11:35:09(UTC)
hgk


Joined: 10/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 455
Location: Pacific Ocean
Henrik,
Spray some in a small container, let it evaporate for a week and see how it comes out. As I recall it does thicken so I don't use it on any sensitive mechanisms. Other than that they say it displaces moisture well and as you have seen, is a pretty good solvent. Would be great if someone did a track cleaning comparison of WD40, vs naptha, vs WD40 followed by a quick wipe of naptha, for a couple months (then let us know who the winner is [:p]).
I would avoid spraying things like turnout mechanisms though.
Regards,
-George
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by hxmiesa
<br />Maybe a little sidetracked, but...;
The other day I needed something strong to clean off traces of a mix of adhesive and wheel-crud. As I dont have any lighterfluid, I applied a little WD40 on a cloth, and whiped the track clean.
The result was fantastic! I have never seen so easy and effective cleaning. BUT I have always refrained from using WD40 om my layout, as I have heard bad things about (leaving residues or something) What exactly _IS_ the drawbacks with using WD40???
Offline pserup  
#14 Posted : 13 September 2008 16:59:47(UTC)
pserup

Denmark   
Joined: 02/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 897
Location: Ramløse, Denmark
I got some very dirty second hand C-track and cleaned them the same way I do my dishes ... with dish washing detergent. Dried most of the water off in a towel and left them 10 min in the sun to airdry. Worked perfectly ... Now I wonder if they could survive similar treatment in a dishwashing machine confused
CS, Denmark/Germany Ep. I - V, Switzerland Ep. II - V, USA Ep. III/IV
Offline nevw  
#15 Posted : 14 September 2008 02:33:00(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
another cleaning compound is White Spirits". Actually a very low Octane Petrol/Gas.

Similar to "Shellite" but a bit purer as far as petrol goes.

N
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline mvd71  
#16 Posted : 14 September 2008 05:03:03(UTC)
mvd71

New Zealand   
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,919
Location: Auckland,
Any of the previously mentioned solvents work well on a faulty CS1 if the a set of matches are included.[}:)]
Offline nevw  
#17 Posted : 14 September 2008 05:58:50(UTC)
nevw

Australia   
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC)
Posts: 11,071
Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by mvd71
<br />Any of the previously mentioned solvents work well on a faulty CS1 if the a set of matches are included.[}:)]


But only if well insured. [}:)][}:)][}:)]
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
Offline mvd71  
#18 Posted : 15 September 2008 09:14:48(UTC)
mvd71

New Zealand   
Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,919
Location: Auckland,
Which company would be crazy enough to insure it?biggrin
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