Joined: 07/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 773
Location: Zwevezele,
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Hi all,
I wonder if somebody has good or bad experiences when using the Faller Car System for crossing C-tracks?
Thanks,
Frank |
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 Joined: 12/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,448 Location: Wellington, New_Zealand
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I would suggest avoiding all gradients and curves on approach to the track the item 161657 offers indents for 90 degree and 75 degree (approx). I would always opt for 90 degree crossing. http://www.walthers.com/...c/productinfo/272-161657General quite reliable with vehicle with a "long" shoe (Buses/trucks) - Would steer clar of Cars/Vans unless you modify the shoe (and test). The Faller "insert for C-Track" (as above) may be a little high causing - some wagons (droopy) couplers to cause an electrical short - loco shoes to push up against the metal body (again a short unless you add some insulation tape) |
Peter
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Joined: 07/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 773
Location: Zwevezele,
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Hi Peter,
Thanks for the tips, I'll keep them in mind.
Br,
Frank |
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Joined: 07/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 773
Location: Zwevezele,
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Hi,
Is it feasible to cut out a part of the rails and replace it by a non-metalic part?
br,
Frank |
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Joined: 28/04/2003(UTC)
Posts: 757
Location: Wawa, Ontario
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Not a good idea as you will then have problems with the locomotives loosing power in that section possibly.
I would suggest getting one of the books about the Faller Car System, even though it is in German. You can still learn alot from the diagrams, pictures are really worth a thousand words.
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 Joined: 02/07/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,448 Location: Italy
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Joined: 07/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 773
Location: Zwevezele,
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Hi Alberto,
Ok great info, exactly what I needed. Great video's as well!
Thanks!
ciao,
Frank |
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Joined: 07/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 773
Location: Zwevezele,
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Hi,
Is it better to groove in the wire or is tape sufficient?
Thanks,
Frank |
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Joined: 02/07/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,448 Location: Italy
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You must mill the wood with the faller milling cutter.
Don't try other solutions, after that you will have the exact furrow where to put the wire. The tape is useful when you lay the plaster, but must be removed before to complete the work. |
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Joined: 12/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,448 Location: Wellington, New_Zealand
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by fvri
<br />Hi,
Is it feasible to cut out a part of the rails and replace it by a non-metalic part?
br,
Frank
If you take a lead from the Faller Item, Yes the track studs are removed. However the road insert, which allows for vehicles to transverse the tracks includes a strip of wire laid in a grove to replace the studs. The wire that replaces the studs is "non metalic" so the car system shoe is not distracted, however it is proud of the surface (or the train shoe would not pickup power). Therefore a compromise is needed to ensure that the wire is not so high as to physically catch the car system shoe. I do recall a reference to someone using a strip of brass on its edge to achieve the same continuity. This could be installed separately to TWO roadbed insets allowing of individual adjustment. The "magnetic" wire inserts (perpendicular to the train travel) still need to be imbedded in the inserts. |
Peter
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Joined: 12/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,448 Location: Wellington, New_Zealand
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by fvri
<br />Hi,
Is it better to groove in the wire or is tape sufficient?
Thanks,
Frank
This is not an either/or question. The groove is highly desirable as it both provides a straight line and minimises the shoe rolling off to oneside or the other. Tape or some "fine" insulated layer is imperitive to provide a residal to prevent the magnet on the shoe catching/sticking to the wire rather than slidding along it. Common problems resulting in unsatisfaction of tracking ... - wire groove TOO deep - too much distance between wire and magnet - - groove has bumps and dips - wire cover tape/plaster TOO thick - wire cover too thin (or absent - over time with wear) causing soe to "catch" The Faller grooving tool requires skill and LOTS of practice. Wavy lines don't look good - I would actually use a mini-router and a fence if possible - but more importantly they making vehicle tracking hard and prone to derailment. Be conscious of the material you are working with. MDF is attractive on first sight because of its apparent ease to work with but the dust makes maintaining depth hard and anything but a good sharp cutter will cause the surface/edge to "feather". Use of a road surface (plaster) with water content will of course cause swelling - as well as resulting in the rusting of the steel wire. |
Peter
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 Joined: 12/10/2008(UTC) Posts: 981 Location: Stockholm, Södermalm
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Joined: 07/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 773
Location: Zwevezele,
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Peter en Jonas,
Peter thank you for this extra info for laying the wire!
Jonas, splendid design!
Br,
Frank |
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