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Offline masos1138  
#1 Posted : 23 August 2009 02:27:10(UTC)
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masos1138


Joined: 08/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
Location: Snellville, GA
I have some non-Marklin rolling stock that I am trying to get to work on my layout. I solved the coupler issue with some Kadee #17s, based on some advice from these boards. Now I'm having problems with some derailing on my curved turnouts. I have tried to ensure that the wheels are not out of gauge, but that does not seem to have helped much. At this point, I am prepared to try Marklin wheels on some of them. Does anyone know where I can find a complete list of Marklin wheels sets and their specs?

I have complied the following, but I think there are some holes in my list.

700020: Wheel Dia: 12 mm Axle Length: 24.9 mm Design: stepped axle
700070: Wheel Dia: 12 mm Axle Length: 25.2 mm Design: stepped axle
700080” Wheel Dia: 12 mm Axle Length: 26.2 mm Design: stepped axle
700100: Wheel Dia: 10 mm Axle Length: 26.0 mm Design: stepped axle
700150: Wheel Dia: 10 mm Axle Length: 24.4 mm Design: tapered axle
700190: Wheel Dia: 10 mm Axle Length: 24.8 mm Design: stepped axle
700200: Wheel Dia: 10 mm Axle Length: 24.1 mm Design: stepped axle
700230: Wheel Dia: 10 mm Axle Length: 24.4 mm Design: tapered axle, spoke wheels
700530: Wheel Dia: 12 mm Axle Length: 24.9 mm Design: stepped axle
700590: Wheel Dia: 10 mm Axle Length: 26.0 mm Design: stepped axle, DC
700600: Wheel Dia: 10 mm Axle Length: 24.8 mm Design: stepped axle, DC

Thanks,
Mike
Atlanta, GA
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Offline kimballthurlow  
#2 Posted : 23 August 2009 02:43:12(UTC)
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kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,764
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Very useful list, Mike.
Derailments will depend on which track you are using.
regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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Offline masos1138  
#3 Posted : 23 August 2009 02:49:36(UTC)
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masos1138


Joined: 08/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
Location: Snellville, GA
Ahh, good point. I am using C track.

Thanks,
Mike
Atlanta, GA
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Offline kimballthurlow  
#4 Posted : 23 August 2009 09:33:06(UTC)
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kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,764
Location: Brisbane, Australia
I too found derailments on C track, using other brand rolling stock.
If the wheels are the problem, I have found that using the same brand AC wheels as the model is a good option.
While the Marklin wheels are the best rollers (in my opinion), I found the Fleischmann are excellent for most applications.

So it may come down to availability, and price.
AC wheelsets from Fleischmann:
# 6560 pin point axle 24mm long
# 6561 pin point axle 25mm long
They cover most F models I own, going way back to the 50's.

AC wheelsets from Roco, # 40183 and 40196
AC sets are also available from Brawa.
I got this terrible whirring/roaring noise from one set of either Roco or Brawa, and had to discard them.

Also Mike, check that couplers are not getting tangled up with buffers, on curves. This happens on brands other than Marklin. Marklin buffers are deliberately 0.5 - 1.0mm higher for this reason, and in my opinion, do not detract from the model.

regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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Offline steventrain  
#5 Posted : 23 August 2009 11:31:46(UTC)
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steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,695
Location: United Kingdom
Thanks for the list, Mike.
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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Offline intruder  
#6 Posted : 23 August 2009 21:46:25(UTC)
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intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
I have equipped my non-Märklin coaches with Roco AC wheels no. 40183.

UserPostedImage

They run perfect.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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Offline intruder  
#7 Posted : 23 August 2009 22:00:42(UTC)
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intruder

Norway   
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
Oh, I forgot: Thanks for the useful list, Mike.

I have installed the spoked tapered wheels on some of my Märklin cars, and I want to install more, but I didn't remember the part number - untill now.
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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Offline masos1138  
#8 Posted : 24 August 2009 22:07:07(UTC)
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masos1138


Joined: 08/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
Location: Snellville, GA
Thanks to everyone for the responses so far. I've been measuring up all non-Marklin wheels and checking online for availability. :)

Lutz, getting a peek at your spreadsheet would be awesome.

Thanks,
Mike
Atlanta, GA
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Offline DamonKelly  
#9 Posted : 28 August 2009 13:34:06(UTC)
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DamonKelly

Australia   
Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,423
Location: Brisbane, QLD
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hemmerich
<br />I've compiled a spreadsheet with about 100 AC/DC and TRIX Express wheelset numbers. Maybe I'm gonna post it here.


I'm sure many members would appreciate seeing your spreadsheet (including me!). Please consider posting it to the forum.

Cheers,
Damon
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Offline masos1138  
#10 Posted : 06 September 2009 21:36:19(UTC)
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masos1138


Joined: 08/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 17
Location: Snellville, GA
So after a little trial and error, I have found that a Kato 31-601 (A-3) truck is a perfect match for Marklin wheel set 700150. I had to do a little surgery on some undercarriages, especially my Kadee Pennsy covered hopper, to allow for clearance of the bigger flanges. But derailments on switches now seem to be history. Thanks for all the assistance.

Hopefully this info can help someone else.

Thanks,
Mike
Atlanta, GA
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Offline Tdl  
#11 Posted : 07 September 2009 10:56:15(UTC)
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Tdl

Netherlands   
Joined: 30/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
An important parameter of a wheelset is the distance between the inside faces of the flanges.
I propose to add this distance to any listing of wheelset data.

Marklin scale HO have changed this distance in the course of the years from 13.8 m to 14.2 mm.
Wheelsets with an inside distance smaller than 14.0 mm cause shorts on some K-track points, because a wheel hits a point contact.
Also wheelsets with wrong inside distance may derail.

Does anyone know a method to widen the inside distance of a car wheelsets without damaging the axle ends ?
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Offline kimballthurlow  
#12 Posted : 07 September 2009 14:18:45(UTC)
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kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,764
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hi Willem,
I use a pair of long nose pliers between the wheels, and spread out the nose between the wheels. Try at different points around the wheel, to ensure they stay parallel.

Another way is to push the axle end into a flat piece of wood (pine for example) then using a pair of pliers, loose around the axle, tap the inside of the wheel nearest the wood.

It will work the opposite, tapping the outside of the wheel furthest from the wood to bring them closer.

The inside distance between wheels is known in English as the "back-to-back measurement", and can be critical for trouble free running. This measurement can never be LESS than the distance across the check rails faces, on switches (points).

regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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Offline Webmaster  
#13 Posted : 15 September 2009 22:49:15(UTC)
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Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
Unfortunately it is more common with non-German dealers that you have to pay for the replacement wheels than not...
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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