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steventrain		#1 Posted : 24 April 2009 11:48:25(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom		What is the value on 37432. What functions is it, please? Thanks in advance.
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steventrain		#2 Posted : 24 April 2009 13:12:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom		Thanks for the picture, Very interesting. What is the black box? I said the value mean price guide.
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steventrain		#3 Posted : 24 April 2009 13:38:24(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hemmerich <br />The loudspeaker. Ah, Thanks.
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intruder		#4 Posted : 24 April 2009 13:45:47(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		A short semi-off-topic question: Märklin has offered several double traction locomotive sets, where one locomotive is powered and one is unpowered, like the 37432. Are the loco chassis identical in both units, so it's possible to install a normal motor bogie in the unpowered unit?
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Bigdaddynz		#5 Posted : 24 April 2009 16:23:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,773 Location: New Zealand		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by steventrain <br />What is the value on 37432. What functions is it, please? Thanks in advance. I just bought one of these in mint condition from our Marklin club. I paid $315 NZD (132 EUR, 118 GBP), very cheap I would think. It has yellow lights, a whistle, and startup engine sounds, plus braking and acceleration delay. There are no running sounds. Kolls of 2002 lists the value as 250 EUR. So my guess would be around 180 - 200 EUR. Lutz, not having opened mine, I assume the dummy loco has all the gearing (you can see them underneath) but no motor parts, but they can be fitted with motor parts? Also, how easy is it to uncouple them, given there is a permanent drawbar and cables between them. (Oops just read Svein's question and Lutz's reply.)
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river6109		#6 Posted : 24 April 2009 16:37:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		What I don't like with 60901 decoders (e.g. sound or not) is their breaking distance. it is'nt long enough for my sidings. for instance a steam loco's speed to come into a siding with e.g. 20 carriages behind it will stop half way up the track. Lutz, the bogy was'nt prepared for a quick conversion. I think if I remember correctly one would had to drill the existing holes.
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Bigdaddynz		#7 Posted : 25 April 2009 02:19:34(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,773 Location: New Zealand		Thanks for the details of your conversion Lutz. Ever since I got mine, I have been wondering whether it was possible to separate them and power the dummy loco. But I hadn't quite got around to opening them up!
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DasBert33		#8 Posted : 25 April 2009 11:03:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,275		Strange that marklin hasnt brought out a version of the BR151 with single arm pantos. It seems most 151s have been outfitted with those nowadays. But the loco looks better with the old style pantos IMHO.
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H0		#9 Posted : 25 April 2009 17:28:12(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,453 Location: DE-NW		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by DasBert33 <br />Strange that marklin hasnt brought out a version of the BR151 with single arm pantos. Really strange - as these are prototypical for e.g. #39582 (BR 151 Railion). The loco had single arm pantos before it got the Railion logo. I swapped pantos between a BR 111 and a BR 151 so the BR 151 has single arm pantos now.
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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mmervine		#10 Posted : 25 April 2009 17:38:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 30/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,894 Location: Keene, NH		Really nice work Lutz...thanks for the photos!
		Märklin C-track, Marklin Digital & ECoS, multi-era French & Swiss http://www.ete-ene.org/m...mervines-layout-gallery/
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steventrain		#11 Posted : 25 April 2009 19:15:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bigdaddynz <br /> Kolls of 2002 lists the value as 250 EUR. So my guess would be around 180 - 200 EUR. Thanks for the Info.
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Bigdaddynz		#12 Posted : 26 April 2009 00:25:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,773 Location: New Zealand		Because of this topic I thought I would open up my sample of the 37432. The dummy loco does have a bogie with the motor housing, which has some but not all of the required gears. So, to convert it to a running loco I would have to get 2 or maybe 3 gears, a magnet, motor cover, armature, 2 more lights, 2 close couplers, and either an ESU decoder or an original decoder from Marklin. I also took a look at what would become the driving wheels. The powered loco has 4 wheels with traction tyres. Interestingly, the dummy loco has one wheel with the tyre groove and a tyre fitted. The other 3 wheels do not have the tyre grooves. Don't know if that is by design or whether someone has altered it - the powered loco was missing its body mounting screw, although the body also clips on to the chassis. So I would probably also need to get another 3 wheels with grooves.
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Bigdaddynz		#13 Posted : 26 April 2009 00:40:47(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,773 Location: New Zealand		It doesn't help that there is no parts diagram from Marklin for the 37432, and the one for 37431 is for an analog version of the loco. There is no part numbers given for individual gears. However, a complete driving bogie seems to cost about 50 EUR, so like Lutz, that would be the way to go.
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intruder		#14 Posted : 26 April 2009 19:21:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hemmerich Svein, the chassis is no issue; just the bogie for a powered unit is needed. Thanks for the info, Lutz. Thanks also for the rest of the posts in this interesting topic.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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H0		#15 Posted : 26 April 2009 22:52:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,453 Location: DE-NW		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hemmerich <br />Where's the problem with the "right" pantos? You can mount whatever you prefer. Märklin for example had mounted the old black type on the #39582 Railion exhibition model and later decided to deliver the model with the newer red ones. No problem, but ... ... the picture in the product database still shows the black era V pantographs while the loco was delivered with red era IV pantographs. 151 042 had single arm pantographs before it received the Railion logo. Why didn't M* choose a loco number where pantographs would have been prototypical? The red ones surely are better detailed. No problem - they sure look good on my era IV BR 111 (but may not be prototypical for that loco number). As they write in the new items brochure: Märklin is not a toy. It's a perfect world en miniature. The hand-made sample in the product database has the wrong pantographs - but they changed them for the production run. [}:)]
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Bigdaddynz		#16 Posted : 27 April 2009 01:11:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,773 Location: New Zealand		Cheers, thanks Lutz for your answers. It is certainly a really nice set, I'd recommend anyone who has the chance to get one. It looks good with a rake of container cars, or tank cars, or the ore cars from the Langer Heinrich set (see the cover of the latest 'Todays Railways' magazine). As for conversion of the dummy, from Lutz's answers it seems to be much easier to purchase a complete new bogie, and at 50 EUR it isn't all that expensive! However, if I did get keen to convert the existing bogie, a workmate of mine has a computer controlled milling machine, for which cutting grooves in wheels and drilling mounting holes for gears would be a very simple job!
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H0		#17 Posted : 27 April 2009 01:16:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,453 Location: DE-NW		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hemmerich <br />So what - if they could change it everyone else could do this too if desired; in particular since the "right" ones have recently also been introduced with another new model and can now be obtained as spare part. [}:)] That's fine. Which model? Spare part number? Spending 40 bucks on new pantographs is well-spent money if it improves a brand-new loco. OTOH you could keep the pantographs and paint the loco green ...
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Bigdaddynz		#18 Posted : 27 April 2009 01:56:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,773 Location: New Zealand		The black pantos look the best to me. But I stress that is only my opinion, others may differ!
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WelshMatt		#19 Posted : 27 April 2009 02:04:47(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,345 Location: ,		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by H0 <br /> Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hemmerich <br />So what - if they could change it everyone else could do this too if desired; in particular since the "right" ones have recently also been introduced with another new model and can now be obtained as spare part. [}:)] That's fine. Which model? Spare part number? Spending 40 bucks on new pantographs is well-spent money if it improves a brand-new loco. OTOH you could keep the pantographs and paint the loco green ... Or Marklin could just put the right ones on in the first place, and it wouldn't cost them any more. It might also lead to a few more sales to people who expect attention to detail in an expensive product. My 3042 is keeping the original style scissor pantographs, as I understand that the first batch of Br.111s were fitted with them originally and the loco is in Epoch IV condition.
		Matt from Wales. When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality
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H0		#20 Posted : 27 April 2009 02:39:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,453 Location: DE-NW		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by WelshMatt <br />My 3042 is keeping the original style scissor pantographs, as I understand that the first batch of Br.111s were fitted with them originally and the loco is in Epoch IV condition. AFAIK many had single-arm pantographs in the first place - but DB swapped them between BR 103 and BR 111 (the former needed high-speed pantographs more urgently). So "originally" is not the right word, but they got them very soon. And some have them still ...
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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river6109		#21 Posted : 27 April 2009 02:56:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Lutz wrote: These BR151 models can even be further "enhanced" by model train fans by changing the driver cabins, installing red rear and machine room lights, etc, etc. And even if all those things would be factory delivered one can bet that there are still people around who'd complain why the doors can't be opened or the wipers don't work like the prototype. I would'nt go as far of complaining but making a point. The 151's have been out for a while and newer models have been appearing but with very little change. And the lights for one is such feature. Having made changes to the light configuration from bulb to led with recent releases, the 151 for some reason has missed out. I've converted my 151's 3057, 3058 with 5 pole highefficiency motors and led's front & rear including redmarker lights. drilled holes into the redmarker dummy lights and inserted 2mm led's The red marker lights operate with F1 & F2 and are in the "on" position all the time while in operation. They turn automatically "off" when reversing the loco to "headlights". By turning the headlights "off" the marker lights can be "on" front or rear.
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Bigdaddynz		#22 Posted : 28 April 2009 00:42:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,773 Location: New Zealand		Interesting comments and photos, thanks Lutz.
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Bigdaddynz		#23 Posted : 28 April 2009 15:23:04(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,773 Location: New Zealand		One of the driving wheels on my 37432 was missing a traction tyre, so I put a new one on - it was on the leading axle. The front bogie of the loco then started to to derail on one of my curved turnouts. As it hadn't derailed before when I had no tyre on that wheel, I wondered if the new tyre was enough to lift the front bogie, relative to the older slightly worn tyre on the other side, and cause it to derail. Sure enough when I replaced the older (but otherwise ok) tyre with a new one, the loco stopped derailing. Weird, but logical. Have never had that happen before.
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river6109		#24 Posted : 28 April 2009 18:57:46(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bigdaddynz <br />One of the driving wheels on my 37432 was missing a traction tyre, so I put a new one on - it was on the leading axle. The front bogie of the loco then started to to derail on one of my curved turnouts. As it hadn't derailed before when I had no tyre on that wheel, I wondered if the new tyre was enough to lift the front bogie, relative to the older slightly worn tyre on the other side, and cause it to derail. Sure enough when I replaced the older (but otherwise ok) tyre with a new one, the loco stopped derailing. Weird, but logical. Have never had that happen before. I usually make sure that the tyre is not streched on one side. take a small scredriver and lift up the rubbertyre slightly and move it around the whole wheel, this way the tyre is equally stretched.
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H0		#25 Posted : 29 April 2009 00:44:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,453 Location: DE-NW		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Hemmerich <br />PS: It's really funny to see how quick people are in complaining about something delivered which isn't "prototypically correct" in their eyes, but barely spent any second in thinking how they could change things easily themselves. [:X] Who's complaining? My red 151 has had single-arm pantographs for several months now. Swapped 'em with a BR 111. I ain't gonna spend 39.90 Euro to get new single-arm pantographs. Well - OK, I'm complaining: the new pantographs of 37359 are not prototypically correct for a BR 151 (nor for a BR 120). So I'll keep those I have - not correct either, but they're black and look good (at least good enough for me). And my BR 120 will also keep the authentic pantographs it already has (not prototypical, but authentic for a M* model). #39582 is advertised as having "Current paint scheme and lettering" and "Detailed pantographs". The pantographs are detailed - wrong shape, wrong paint scheme, but fine details. Who cares for some gross flaws if there are fine details??? BTW: It's really funny to see that some hard-core fans cannot admit that their favourite toy maker sometimes produces models with flaws that could easily have been avoided by using a different road number or a different colour. But it won't lead anywhere to discuss this again.
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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TimR		#26 Posted : 01 May 2009 01:46:07(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,752 Location: Jakarta		Like John had mentioned before; it's the lights on class 151 that bugs me the most. This is the only model left in the whole Marklin line-up that still got "fake" marker lights - other than the hobby V160, which can be substituted with the new 218 already.
		Now collecting C-Sine models.
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H0		#27 Posted : 01 May 2009 02:22:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,453 Location: DE-NW		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by TimR <br />This is the only model left in the whole Marklin line-up that still got "fake" marker lights Ludmilla, BR 185, EuroRunner, V 100, TRAXX Diesel, BR 184 have no working rear lights.
		Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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TimR		#28 Posted : 01 May 2009 04:46:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,752 Location: Jakarta		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by H0 <br /> Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by TimR <br />This is the only model left in the whole Marklin line-up that still got "fake" marker lights Ludmilla, BR 185, EuroRunner, V 100, TRAXX Diesel, BR 184 have no working rear lights. Ok, maybe the 151 is not really the last one [:I]. The V100 and 184 has the same problem especially as these look quite prominent. I personally feel this "cheapens" the model - especially as Marklin had set the standard on other 37- and 39- models. The 36xxx models, I think, was done very well to disguise the fact. On modern designs such as TRAXX and Eurorunners, the marker lights are supposed to be where the headlights are anyway - so no prob there. On the Ludmilla, as it is a new design, they looked really subtle.
		Now collecting C-Sine models.
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I_love_Marklin_37538		#29 Posted : 01 May 2009 05:06:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/09/2008(UTC) Posts: 957 Location: ,		I was wondering,what are the chances M will do a metal body for the 151?
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applor		#30 Posted : 01 May 2009 06:48:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,769 Location: Brisbane, Queensland		How do marker lights operate on locomotives? Just thinking, wouldn't be hard to drill small holes where the fake marker lights are painted on and stick some small LED's in there. I'm just not sure how they should be wired up, in parallel with the directional lights or as a seperate function for both ends or a function for each end? I wouldn't mind doing that on my class 140, it has the spare functions (its a 37xxx something)
		modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany
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river6109		#31 Posted : 01 May 2009 09:00:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by applor <br />How do marker lights operate on locomotives? Just thinking, wouldn't be hard to drill small holes where the fake marker lights are painted on and stick some small LED's in there. I'm just not sure how they should be wired up, in parallel with the directional lights or as a seperate function for both ends or a function for each end? I wouldn't mind doing that on my class 140, it has the spare functions (its a 37xxx something) To change the light bulbs to led's is'nt a problem but there are 2 differences between BR 151 and BR 140. the BR 151 has its lightfittings with the chassis whereas the BR 140 with the housing. To dtrill a hole into the frame of the BR 152 is not a problem either it's the inside that needs to be shaved to be able to fit the leds. You can join the led's in a serie and attach them to F1 & F2.(front & rear) The BR 140 is slightly different. To drill out the holes is not a problem but than you have to find a way of connecting the leds to the frame. I don't like them being connected by wires if you take off the housing you've always got these wires to worry about. My solution has been I've connected a small plate onto the led (+ = -)and mounted an other insulated plate onto the frame. Will show some photos when I get a minute. I've done the same with tenders rear leds.
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TimR		#32 Posted : 07 May 2009 01:12:52(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,752 Location: Jakarta		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by I_love_Marklin_37538 <br />I was wondering,what are the chances M will do a metal body for the 151? I'm sure it'll happen "one day" like they did with 103. But with Marklin's current situation, I expect them to cut back on new toolings for next year at least. Till then, I'll hold fire on the 151, & prob get the 150 instead.
		Now collecting C-Sine models.
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