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Offline NAP47  
#1 Posted : 04 January 2026 14:02:43(UTC)
NAP47

Canada   
Joined: 19/11/2025(UTC)
Posts: 16
Location: Ontario
I have made progress, my 260 engine is working very well, still without drive rods, the track is laid and fastened down.
A couple issues have cropped as I try to operate.
At times at low speed the loco stops at rail joiners, the joints seem smooth and electric continuity is OK, the joints are not moving on the mounting board which is cork. I have cleaned the track with goo-b-gone on a very fine scotchbrite pad, have not yet figured out how to clean the loco wheels. What is best way to clean the loco?
Uncoupling may be my biggest challenge, I am using the Marklin fish hook couplers. I have made a manual device which works ok, except when my hands shake, I have early Parkinson’s. The Marklin track uncouplers are expensive at this stage of my experiment.
Any suggestions that are not too expensive and not to fussy to install or operate?
Happy New Year.

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Offline kiwiAlan  
#2 Posted : 04 January 2026 14:11:08(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,700
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: NAP47 Go to Quoted Post
I have not yet figured out how to clean the loco wheels. What is best way to clean the loco?


Trix make a wheel cleaner for N & Z gauge locos. Euro Rail Hobbies have it available for ordering.
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Offline Carim  
#3 Posted : 04 January 2026 14:31:58(UTC)
Carim

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC)
Posts: 707
Location: London
The Trix wheel cleaner works well. Otherwise make a cradle for your loco, invert the loco and place it in the cradle, apply power to the wheels (a 9V battery will do); cleaning the wheels as they spin with a cotton bud soaked in isopropyl.

A tooth pick works for uncoupling. I tried out the Märklin uncouplers and found them a bit hit and miss plus I don't like their looks.

Carim
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Offline Otti  
#4 Posted : 05 January 2026 16:51:53(UTC)
Otti

Germany   
Joined: 03/09/2025(UTC)
Posts: 1
Location: Schleswig-Holstein, Gosdorf
Hi everyone,

I use Jörger and I'm totally satisfied with them.

Once you have a pack of magnetic staples, it'll last you a lifetime :)

I've shown and written quite a bit about them here:

UserPostedImage

In the picture, the coupling hooks are being pushed apart by the magnetic field!

Edited by user 08 January 2026 19:40:50(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Viele Grüße
Otti
____________
Homepage
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Offline Chas  
#5 Posted : 06 January 2026 08:22:54(UTC)
Chas

United Kingdom   
Joined: 08/01/2023(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: England, Pevensey
[
Check the rail connectors they might need to tighten them on to the rail, wheel cheaner, get a 9v battery (The square ones) push 2 pins through a piece of card/plastic spaced the same as the track, attach wires to the pins wrap around or solder, connect to battery, touch pin tips on the wheels, run over wheels.

Check out http://www.zscale.org/articles/cleaning.html


Offline Zme  
#6 Posted : 08 January 2026 17:45:01(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 901
Location: West Texas
Hello, hope all is well

Below is one person’s suggestion for cleaning your Z wheels. I believe some kind of cleaning liquid was added to the edge.

https://youtube.com/shor...FAG4?si=R-szXgvc2QIBOLgh

I have never tried this but it could be a low cost solution to this job. Don’t see what might be the harm.

Take good care

Zme
Offline husafreak  
#7 Posted : 13 January 2026 04:44:07(UTC)
husafreak

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 570
Location: California, Bay Area
https://ztrackcenter.com...ories/A063-2-640x500.jpg
This is my favorite device, specifically for z scale. It used to be sold by another company, now Rokuhan sells it, the USD price here is nuts, maybe you can find it on Ebay for $20.
Offline husafreak  
#8 Posted : 14 January 2026 04:44:42(UTC)
husafreak

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 570
Location: California, Bay Area
I found the original manufacturer, part: Tsugawa 12508 It is still being sold by Z scale specific dealers here in the US for a reasonable price.
Offline NAP47  
#9 Posted : 26 January 2026 17:51:31(UTC)
NAP47

Canada   
Joined: 19/11/2025(UTC)
Posts: 16
Location: Ontario
This has taken a while but I have a reasonable working Ingelnook Switching playout. It still has some dead spots at very low speed. This is what I have done,
Glued all rail to board, tested all sections of track for continuity and 12 vdc power.
Cleaned all track and loco wheels.
Converted from dc controller to PWM with step down from 12 to 8 vdc.
I have successfully screwed up a couple of horn hook couplers and am not able to replace them, my hands are not steady enough. Replacing units because of my clumsy hands is not affordable.
So I have given this a lot of thought and am considering changing to N scale and selling onward the Z scale I have.
I do have a friend with N scale which he has let me spend some time with and with care can do most things and those I cannot he has agreed to help when he can.
Going to be difficult in my apartment to accommodate N scale, the Z was perfect in this regard. I cannot accommodate anything larger than N and stay married to my spouse or 55 years.
Not made a final decision but am pretty close, this has let me decide that model trains are an interest I can pursue just need to make a final decision even though the initial kit was free I have spent a fair amount of money and need to be careful of that on retirement income.
Cheers
Norm👍
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by NAP47
Offline husafreak  
#10 Posted : 01 February 2026 18:31:52(UTC)
husafreak

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 570
Location: California, Bay Area
I do believe an Ingelnook Switching playout would be more fun in N scale. Precisely for the slow speed reliability factor. If I were doing one in Z scale I would "stack the deck" in my favor. I know you have done a lot of the things I will recommend but I'll just put it all here. I would use a modern loco and convert everything to the MTL Magne-Matic coupling system. I would probably buy an AZL loco and MTL cars actually.
From Google search: "Micro-Trains Line (MTL) Z scale Magne-Matic couplers are the industry standard for 1:220 scale, offering reliable automatic coupling and magnetic uncoupling, often replacing older Marklin "fishhook" couplers. These knuckle-style couplers provide realistic appearance and close-coupling distances, essential for detailed, modern Z scale operations."
They use magnets under the track to force them apart.
You said your loco is a 260 but I didn't catch what model number. FWIW some Marklin locos, especially the heavier modern "can" motor ones, can run very well at slow speeds, but I own an older 3 or 5 pole 260 that does not stop and start reliably at all. To use that for switching would be an exercise in frustration. Also, while switchers would seem like the obvious choice for switching, they are small and have electrical pickup challenges as a result. That may be adding to stoppages over rail joints. The 260 is certainly affected by this whearas a bigger heavier loco with a pair of 3 axle trucks may better bridge the gap. Finally, not all controllers are equal. The Blue Line Snail Speed controllers are known to be good for slow speed precision ops due to their design. I do not think the most modern white Marklin controllers with the wall warts are as highly praised for that. I would rather use DCC control, but that is really expensive.
Cheers!
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