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Offline Rocca  
#1 Posted : 11 December 2025 21:58:33(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 642
Dear Märklin friends,
I found a low-sided 8610 wagon on eBay, but unfortunately, one of the two couplers doesn't return to the correct position on curves, due, I suspect, to a defective spring. I'm sure that years ago, for a similar problem, I found both instructions and videos on YouTube explaining how to replace the defective coupler. Also, can you please tell me the exact original spare part number for replacing the couplers? Is the number E166264 (Kupplung lang) the correct one?
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
Sincerely!
Prof. Stefano Rocca
Offline Zme  
#2 Posted : 12 December 2025 04:54:24(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 896
Location: West Texas
Hello, hope all is well.

It is possible your coupler is one of the original designs and may be causing the problems you mentioned.

Below is a photo which shows the difference between the two coupler designs.

UserPostedImage

The coupler on the right shows the new coupler. Compare this to yours. Yours might not be chamfered.

Your replacement part number is correct. You might want to replace couplers on both sides of your wagon. Your dealer should be able to get these for you.

Keep an eye on those coupler springs, they are easy to lose.

Take good care

Zme
Offline Rocca  
#3 Posted : 17 December 2025 22:21:02(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 642
Thank you for your advice! yes, mine is this
1000034658.jpg (3,372kb) downloaded 8 time(s).
I'll try to replace it on my own!
Beste regards
Stefano Rocca


Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
Hello, hope all is well.

It is possible your coupler is one of the original designs and may be causing the problems you mentioned.

Below is a photo which shows the difference between the two coupler designs.

UserPostedImage

The coupler on the right shows the new coupler. Compare this to yours. Yours might not be chamfered.

Your replacement part number is correct. You might want to replace couplers on both sides of your wagon. Your dealer should be able to get these for you.

Keep an eye on those coupler springs, they are easy to lose.

Take good care

Zme


Offline Zme  
#4 Posted : 17 December 2025 23:07:16(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 896
Location: West Texas
Hello. Hope all is well.

Your wagon looks like a very old one

I have not replaced a coupler on this style. I believe the melted plastic on yours has been redesigned. Now there is a small angular metal plate over the coupler pocket. It is possible someone already attempted a repair on this and it is less than perfect and this is causing your troubles. Further repair may not be possible.

You will need to re-melt the plastic over the coupler without leading to its total destruction. You will need to work carefully with your heating device. This work may be risky, there’s not much you can work with.

If you proceed, if extra oil is added to the coupler pocket it will hold the spring in place. They are not attached but are two separate pieces. The springs just have a way of getting lost and are difficult to spot should they get away from you. With the new part number it is possible you will get a number of couplers including the springs. Let me know if this is true.

I don’t know if others frown on this but I usually glue the spring onto the nub of the coupler using super glue. It is just easier to reinstall this if it is one piece. Just make certain the glue is dry before reinstalling , this I learned the hard way.

Hope everything works out well for you. Should you not have success, I have encountered wagons with the coupler glued in solid and it doesn’t move back and forth. Another consideration is to always keep this wagon at the end of your string, coupling on the one good side. Take good care. This wagon could always be replaced, it is very common and cheaper than most.

Zme
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#5 Posted : 18 December 2025 20:52:39(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 600
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
With the new part number it is possible you will get a number of couplers including the springs. Let me know if this is true.


Yes, E166264 contains 10 couplings and 10 springs. That's 1 pair to do the job and another 9 to spring off the table, never to be seen again.

Cheers


Chris

thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Poor Skeleton
Zme
Offline Rocca  
#6 Posted : 18 December 2025 21:34:25(UTC)
Rocca

Italy   
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 642

dear Chris,

Well, it looks like a dangerous job. As Zme suggested, in the newest wagons you have a small angular metal plate over the coupler pocket, which you don't have in mine. Have you, please, any suggestione to work on this? or maybe a You-Tube tutorial? Is a screw enough to take off the old coupling and replace it or may I damage the cinematic?

Best regards

Stefano Rocca

Originally Posted by: Poor Skeleton Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Zme Go to Quoted Post
With the new part number it is possible you will get a number of couplers including the springs. Let me know if this is true.


Yes, E166264 contains 10 couplings and 10 springs. That's 1 pair to do the job and another 9 to spring off the table, never to be seen again.

Cheers


Chris



Offline Poor Skeleton  
#7 Posted : 19 December 2025 23:54:11(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 600
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: Rocca Go to Quoted Post

Have you, please, any suggestione to work on this? or maybe a You-Tube tutorial? Is a screw enough to take off the old coupling and replace it or may I damage the cinematic?


I suppose my first question would be whether you really need to disassemble the truck at all? Z scale couplings aren't fool-proof and I certainly have difficulty sometimes coupling trains together, even on the straight. The couplings don't always return to the central position even when everything is as it should be.

If you are sure there is a problem with this truck, could it be corrected without disassembly? It seems unlikely that the spring would get damaged, but perhaps some foreign matter has got into the pocket? I would try flushing it out with an aerosol solvent such as WD-40 Contact cleaner (NOT regular WD-40). Alternatively, you could apply some Iso-Propyl Alcohol via a dropper or syringe. Flood the coupling pocket, gently work the coupler back and forth then drain as much of the solvent as you can. Repeat this a few times - I think there's a good chance it will clear whatever is causing the problem. Do be cautious about the solvent you use as some can damage plastic. The two I mention should be OK.

If you do feel it's necessary to dismatle the wagon, make sure your work area is as clean and clutter free as possible. I'd suggest you use an old cardboard box as a work cabinet to contain any items that do make a bid for escape. I have also heard people suggest you put everything in a clear polythene bag and do the work it there. Don't even start without some magnifying goggles of some sort and make sure you have plenty of light.

I have attempted a coupling replacement like this once before and it doesn't seem possible to do an "as new" repair as it's not really possible to unsecure the pin that goes through the coupling pocket without cutting away some of the melted plastic, which doesn't leave enough to melt over and hold everything together once te repair is complete. To further complicate things, the plastic used doesn't seem to respond to usual plastic weld solvents so it's not possible to do a precision patch using the solvent to bond on an additional piece of plastic.

If I was attempting this repair, I think my approach would be :

  • Carefully cut away the melted plastic around the pin of the coupling pocket for which you want to replace the coupling.
    Put the wagon in a clear polythene bag and prise apart the body shell from the chassis moulding at that end. I think there should be enough play to do that without disassembling the other end.
    Once the pin is clear you will be able to withdraw the coupling hook and its spring with it
    To reassemble you need to insert the spring into the pocket followed by the coupling hook itself There is a "pip" in the hook which locates into the centre of the spring and I think there's something similar in the pocket as well.
    Once the hook is in position you can close the body shell and chassis back together - the pin goes through the hole in the coupling hook so it is quite fiddly.
    If you're lucky, there will be just enough of the pin left to melt with a fine soldering iron bit to keep everything together. Alternatively, you could use a dab of glue between body shell and chassis to hold everything together. I think that's what I ended up doing.


As far as I know, this isn't a common problem and I've not seen any instructions online on how to do it, so I hope these thoughts are helpful.

As I said earlier, though, I'd initially focuss on clearing the problem without taking anything apart.

Good luck


Chris





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