Joined: 21/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,274
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Hi all, I was browsing the forum history and wanted to reply on some really old topics, but that wasnt allowed so here is a new topic. I am finally fed up with the noise my transfer table makes. To fix this the cheapest/simpelest way possible I thought of converting it to DC. Up to now I havent been able to find any wiring schematics on this so the questions is: is it possible at all? I have some old laptop power supply modules with various output voltages lying around which I think would be perfect for the job. If it isnt possible to feed the transfer table with DC (without major works that is) what other possibilities are there to quiet down the table? Bert PS: I remember an old quote on this forum, telling me to use it as a boat anchor, that is not really what I have in mind.
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Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,218 Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
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I have this transfer table also. I think most of the noise comes from the gear drive, and then is amplified off of the flat plastic bottom. so a motor switch might not help. I haven't had the best of luck with mine, I am always having to remove the transfer track and clean the contacts just to have a chance that it will stop at the correct spot. A redesign that would would work well with digital would be nice. Maybe a liner motor would work well |
DT Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's. |
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Joined: 21/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,274
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In the old topic it is said a part of the noise originates from the fact that the transfer table is driven by a half wave signal. I was wondering whether that half wave signal could be replaced by a DC voltage.
I agree that this wont't fully fix the noise issues but it might make the noise more bearable.
The ideal solution would be to exchange the motor for an sb-modelbau motor, but I would like to try a cheaper solution first. Maybe a schematic of the current implementation would already help too.
I have a k84 decoder lying around. If I would digitize the transfer table, would it be less noisier, or more noisy?
Bert
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Joined: 12/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 169 Location: Pretoria, South Africa
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Originally Posted by: DasBert33  In the old topic it is said a part of the noise originates from the fact that the transfer table is driven by a half wave signal. I was wondering whether that half wave signal could be replaced by a DC voltage.
I agree that this wont't fully fix the noise issues but it might make the noise more bearable.
The ideal solution would be to exchange the motor for an sb-modelbau motor, but I would like to try a cheaper solution first. Maybe a schematic of the current implementation would already help too.
I have a k84 decoder lying around. If I would digitize the transfer table, would it be less noisier, or more noisy?
Bert Gentlemen, I also just bought a 7294 second hand, opened her up and realised the motor was burnt out. Does anyone know of a repacement motor or conversion that can be done quite easily. I thought of using the motor and decoder from the small little loco that came wit an "Circus " starter set, any ideas or tips welcome. Thanks Leon
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Joined: 17/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 25
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Hi Bert,
I have been running my transfer table with 12V DC for the last 6 months with no problems. It is a little quieter on the DC.
Bernard
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 1 user liked this useful post by lok151
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Joined: 29/08/2018(UTC) Posts: 1 Location: Uppsala
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The noise comes from the gears and themotor. To feed it with DC will make it alittle bit less noisy. To feed it with 6 volt DC will make it much more silent, but also much more slower, but who is on a hurry with a hobby? Best solution mus be a complete new drive. Reed relais and a motor beneath the table and cogwheel belts running instead of a motor on the bridge. But that means, you can build a new one intead of rebuild the Märklin device  .
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Joined: 04/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 483 Location: USA
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My 7294 motor burnt as well. Any progress with successful replacement? Ben |
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Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,919 Location: Auckland,
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Originally Posted by: BenP  My 7294 motor burnt as well. Any progress with successful replacement? Ben If your motor is burnt out, then you might as well get a replacement unit from SBModellbau. If memory serves me correctly they have two different motor and gear kits so you can have fast or slow movement.
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 1 user liked this useful post by mvd71
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Hi I have a 7294 transfer table with its overhead option. I don't use it mostly because it is very noisy and incompatible with real medelling with sound, etc. To be fair, the other reason is I focus on steam activity. Of course the original Märklin motor can be powered with DC voltage to reduce noise. The speed must be adjusted for an exact positioning in front of access tracks. Of course we all know about the SB Modellbau upgrade but HURRY because it is being phased out. According to Stummi Forum user's the noise difference is very impressive. https://www.sb-modellbau.com/det...klin-Schiebebuehne_22166Also, when replacing the motor, pay attention to the polarity and rotation direction otherwise protection diodes won't work correctly: they normally stop the motor when the bridge has reached one extremity. Cheers Jean |
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 1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 21/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,274
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Just FYI, Me too in the end reverted to the SB modellbau solution. Indeed the difference is day and night noisewise. Not comparable to running the motor with DC, which is almost the same noiselevel as the original.
The only downside is the millingwork needed to install the new motor.
B
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 2 users liked this useful post by DasBert33
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Joined: 28/03/2017(UTC) Posts: 1 Location: Connecticut, Westport
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Can the 72941 transfer table be operated by the CS3? If so, what is the wiring?
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Joined: 04/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 483 Location: USA
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I replaced the dead motor with a $3 12-24V DC motor from Amazon. Needed a little tweaking on inside to fit, but works fine with original control switch and 16vac power supply (and now have 4 spare motors :-). Not worth $50+ replacement as I rarely move it. The control box creates dc like power, so ac or dc motor both work. Ben https://a.co/d/6jIP9GL |
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