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Offline WC Model Railroad  
#1 Posted : 13 February 2025 01:06:38(UTC)
WC Model Railroad

United States   
Joined: 16/01/2025(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: Elmhurst, IL
This was NIB and when I removed it (I was careful and followed the directions) everything seemed to be ok until I placed it on the tracks and noticed the drawbar was broken.

I found the replacement part on Marklin's site E281945.

My question is this a fixed drawbar between the tender and engine or does it actually unlock and come out? I would like to try and glue the piece back together if possible by removing one of the ends, but I'm not sure if this requires taking the tender/engine apart, a few screws to take the place off to remove the bar, or does it slide out with a little force.

I did attach images of the broken drawbar.

Thank you,
Matt

IMG_0256.jpegIMG_0255.jpeg
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Offline marklinist5999  
#2 Posted : 13 February 2025 01:10:48(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,877
Location: Michigan, Troy
Oh, the wires run through it. Looks like a nightmare to replace. Maybe epoxy it.
Offline WC Model Railroad  
#3 Posted : 13 February 2025 01:24:39(UTC)
WC Model Railroad

United States   
Joined: 16/01/2025(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: Elmhurst, IL
Originally Posted by: marklinist5999 Go to Quoted Post
Oh, the wires run through it. Looks like a nightmare to replace. Maybe epoxy it.


Luckily only on the engine side, the tender side they go up into body and connect to the board.
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Offline marklinist5999  
#4 Posted : 13 February 2025 13:24:19(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,877
Location: Michigan, Troy
Is this part listed on the Marklin site? Will the end slide over the board connector plug? Is it out of warranty and whom did you purchase it from?
Offline WC Model Railroad  
#5 Posted : 13 February 2025 15:33:25(UTC)
WC Model Railroad

United States   
Joined: 16/01/2025(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: Elmhurst, IL
Originally Posted by: marklinist5999 Go to Quoted Post
Is this part listed on the Marklin site? Will the end slide over the board connector plug? Is it out of warranty and whom did you purchase it from?


Here is the part: https://www.maerklinshop.de/en/spare-parts/56418/drawbar-with-cover-screws

I bought it from Trainz (Marklin reseller) which I can send back and they will repair it, but I'm very comfortable opening and repairing things myself.

It looks like the drawbar is a fixed piece when looking at the replacement part. I'm going to try and glue it first, and if that fails just replace it.
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Offline Alsterstreek  
#6 Posted : 13 February 2025 16:53:50(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,839
Location: Hybrid Home
In the German Stummiforum I found the following description regarding the drawbar of the Märklin Challenger (which should be identical to Trix). Please note that you proceed at your own risk, and I take no responsibility for any damage nor give any guarantee for success.

See illustrated post #3: https://www.stummiforum....ugstange.html#msg2641995

Good luck !
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Offline marklinist5999  
#7 Posted : 13 February 2025 17:04:25(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,877
Location: Michigan, Troy
The design of this drawbar is too thin in the center area where the wires travel through. Not enough thickness where it joins the main parts. Over $26 US for a new one is also very high for such a janky part.
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Offline WC Model Railroad  
#8 Posted : 13 February 2025 20:05:35(UTC)
WC Model Railroad

United States   
Joined: 16/01/2025(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: Elmhurst, IL
Thank you for the feedback @alsterstreek and @marklinist5999 - I bought some JB Weld Plastic Epoxy so I'm hoping that will do the job without having to dismantle anything.

I'm just not a huge fan of fixed drawbars especially when you have to handle these engines and move them on and off the layout. A plastic clip or something that interlocks and disconnects would have been more practical and less fragile.

I do have to say the engine is absolutely stunning and sounds incredible!

-Matt
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Offline owidgie  
#9 Posted : 13 February 2025 20:15:44(UTC)
owidgie

United States   
Joined: 03/06/2007(UTC)
Posts: 169
You would be better off by replacing it, the epoxy won't hold and once the drawbar breaks, the wires will be damaged or at least glued together.

I have changed a few of these and it isn't the easiest but it is easier than rewiring when you do decide to change the drawbar once the epoxy has failed.

Rick

Edited by user 14 February 2025 18:06:04(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline kiwiAlan  
#10 Posted : 13 February 2025 20:47:45(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,461
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
It looks like it should be held on the loco end with a circlip (notice the groove in the post). Hope you have that as well.

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Offline Goofy  
#11 Posted : 14 February 2025 06:35:52(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,273
Originally Posted by: WC Model Railroad Go to Quoted Post
This was NIB and when I removed it (I was careful and followed the directions) everything seemed to be ok until I placed it on the tracks and noticed the drawbar was broken.

I found the replacement part on Marklin's site E281945.

My question is this a fixed drawbar between the tender and engine or does it actually unlock and come out? I would like to try and glue the piece back together if possible by removing one of the ends, but I'm not sure if this requires taking the tender/engine apart, a few screws to take the place off to remove the bar, or does it slide out with a little force.

I did attach images of the broken drawbar.

Thank you,
Matt

IMG_0255.jpeg


Woaaa!
Why would Märklin do that with the wires through it?
I have seen other manufacture don´t do that with steam locomotives models.
Just two wires are enough but not so many.

H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
Offline dickinsonj  
#12 Posted : 15 February 2025 01:09:07(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,800
Location: Crozet, Virginia
It's actually an improvement from my point of view. In the past they just kind of loosely strung the wires between the loco and tender. It had no order and looked bad - basically it was a mess. I had wondered for years why they didn't do something to organize all the wires. When updating my older locos I usually capture the wires in shrink tube, but that means a good bit of re-soldering.

They need even more wires now because of all the lighted features and they have been doing better at tidying the wiring up in a channel. The number of individually controlled lights on the Challenger sets high standards and needs many wires.

But I agree - if the drawbar breaks they screwed up the design. I have a Challenger and it is one of my favorite US models. It set my standards so high that I was really disappointed in the 844 and I have not bought any more of the Broadway Limited cooperative designs since. They were all made in China but the standards for the Challenger were a lot higher than for the 844.

I have not had any problems with the drawbar, but I will be more careful with it next time it gets out of its box.
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
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Offline WC Model Railroad  
#13 Posted : 15 February 2025 07:59:59(UTC)
WC Model Railroad

United States   
Joined: 16/01/2025(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: Elmhurst, IL
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
But I agree - if the drawbar breaks they screwed up the design. I have a Challenger and it is one of my favorite US models. It set my standards so high that I was really disappointed in the 844 and I have not bought any more of the Broadway Limited cooperative designs since. They were all made in China but the standards for the Challenger were a lot higher than for the 844.

I have not had any problems with the drawbar, but I will be more careful with it next time it gets out of its box.


I did order the drawbar part from my local shop so I will just replace it when it arrives next week - seems like small project since you have to take apart the tender and steamer.

As far as the model goes it's one of the most impressive steamers in my collections. I collect both US and European so I have a large fleet of Broadway Limited steam engines with 3977 and 3985 from their member run last year coming next month. This engine is loud and the chuffs are fantastic. The whistle is "ok" and probably the weakest sound for me. Overall 8.5 out 10 for me.

I was looking to find the Trix UP 844 they did a few years ago. Sad to hear that it doesn't compare well with their challenger.





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Offline marklinist5999  
#14 Posted : 15 February 2025 15:39:42(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,877
Location: Michigan, Troy
While it's an improvement over the wires just being loose, if it cracks under stress, it isn't helping save the wires is it?
Offline dickinsonj  
#15 Posted : 15 February 2025 15:46:43(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,800
Location: Crozet, Virginia
The drawbar has never cracked under normal use in my experience. I have several locos with similar drawbars and I never had any issues with them.

I suspect that this loco was either mishandled or damaged in shipping, because this is the first failure of that part that I have seen.
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
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Offline JohnjeanB  
#16 Posted : 15 February 2025 19:19:12(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,555
Location: Paris, France
Originally Posted by: WC Model Railroad Go to Quoted Post
Thank you for the feedback @alsterstreek and @marklinist5999 - I bought some JB Weld Plastic Epoxy so I'm hoping that will do the job without having to dismantle anything.

I'm just not a huge fan of fixed drawbars especially when you have to handle these engines and move them on and off the layout. A plastic clip or something that interlocks and disconnects would have been more practical and less fragile.

I do have to say the engine is absolutely stunning and sounds incredible!

-Matt

Hi Matt
I had a similar problem with a BR 06 001 (39 662) with a sliding mechanism in the middle
Problem is Märklin locos are heavier and heavier and so are tenders so definitely the coupling rod is a weak point and should be made stronger even if less attractive
Fixing with JB Weld is very daring but OK if you leave wiring aside (so if it fails, you still may use your coupling rod spare parts).
Changing the wiring to have all the cables go through the opening is very delicate with serious risks of wiring errors (testing is MANDATORY).
Handling the loco and the tender in the same foam receptacle during repairs is a must.
On another loco (SNCF 241A65 - 39241) I appreciated the presence of a connector in the tender to separate the loco and the tender in an easy way.
Good luck with your repair
Jean
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