Joined: 01/12/2014(UTC) Posts: 46 Location: Dallas, TX
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I think I may have fried my turntable.
I've only had my 7286 turntable running analog for about 5 months. I've been using a 16v AC adapter I bought off of Amazon. It's been working fine until yesterday. Then it started buzzing like the solenoid was not getting enough power. I took the controller apart to see if any contacts were bad. Then I grabbed a voltmeter to check to see if I was getting proper voltage. I was pissed to find out the AC adapter that's labeled as 16v was actually putting out 19v!
Does anyone have an idea of which electronic component would die first due to over voltage?
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Basically the 7286 TT has a 12 VDC motor (with a resistor in series, a coil and a few diodes. If you have removed the bridge from the pitt it is easy to check the motor (smell and burnt aspect) and try connecting 10 VDC on it to see if it runs. The soleinoid seems harder to burn while the motor hates to be locked The solenoid commands a contact that will start the motor. There may be an issue with the contact Here are some information regarding the TT Traduction 7286.pdf (2,317kb) downloaded 29 time(s).Cheers Jean |
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 1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,277
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Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB  Hi Basically the 7286 TT has a 12 VDC motor (with a resistor in series, a coil and a few diodes. If you have removed the bridge from the pitt it is easy to check the motor (smell and burnt aspect) and try connecting 10 VDC on it to see if it runs. The soleinoid seems harder to burn while the motor hates to be locked Cheers Jean Basically should motor shuts down if resistor and diodes are broken off. I use Tortoise motor by connect half-wave in conjunction with two diodes. With more safety way i use 12Vdc by cross wired DPDT switches. I have not tested 7286 with (on)-off-(on) two pole switch by cross wire with 12Vdc, but in this case you must remove resistor and diodes under the bridge/turntable. |
H0 DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 01/12/2014(UTC) Posts: 46 Location: Dallas, TX
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Problem solved.
First off, thank you for the helpful replies.
After removing the bridge a second time to check the motor, I noticed the yellow wire going to the motor assembly had come de-soldered. I quickly re-soldered the connection and tested the motor and all works fine.
Now I'm just waiting for a proper 16v AC power supply to arrive from Amazon. This time I will check it first with a voltmeter.
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Märklin made an adjustment on the Fleischmann TT They changed the resistor in series (increased the value compared with the Fleichmann version made for 14 VAC . Not so much because of motor damage but rather because of "Ballistic overshoot". If the TT goes too fast there is a risk to block the latching pin which will cause additional wear and tear. But you are right better use the proper PSU. Cheers Jean |
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,475 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: Dirtboy  Problem solved.
First off, thank you for the helpful replies.
After removing the bridge a second time to check the motor, I noticed the yellow wire going to the motor assembly had come de-soldered. I quickly re-soldered the connection and tested the motor and all works fine.
Now I'm just waiting for a proper 16v AC power supply to arrive from Amazon. This time I will check it first with a voltmeter. Any form of AC transformer will show more than 16VAC under no load, and will probably show more than its rated voltage up to around half rated load. I don't think being a little over voltage is causing your problems.
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 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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