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Offline Poor Skeleton  
#1 Posted : 12 October 2024 21:34:27(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 581
Location: England, Cambridge
Hi,

I was browsing ebay this eveing and saw that we have a 81830 starter set on auction here in the UK. This is a double loop set-up with a pair of curved turnouts linking the loops. Assuming the curved turnouts work like the regular ones and both routes are permanently live, this would electrically connect both loops which seems unlikely as the set comes with two controllers.

I was wondering if the curved turnouts actually behave differently or if you are expected to fit an insulated rail joiner to keep the two loops separate?

I'd be pleased if someone here can answer this, though it is only for my own curiosity and no other reason!

Cheers


Chris
Offline Zme  
#2 Posted : 13 October 2024 02:59:43(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 842
Location: West Texas
Hello, hope all is well.

That is a good question, one which many analog users should understand. You know I am not an expect with the electrical side of our hobby.

If you might remember i have a two circuit analog layout. At the station the track expands the way this set shows the layout, but in my case I have two circuits configured the same way. Here is a photo of this.

UserPostedImage

This photo shows two tracks with a station expansion. The arrows indicate the position for the isolation joiner. In my case I can use the switch point to actually make the locomotive change from one circuit to the other. A similar setup could be used for the 81840 layout. I believe the track wire connection point could be place nearly anywhere in the circuit and addition connections could benefit the layout shown. I think it is likely a curved switch point works in a similar way, it would be confusing and inconsistent for a switch which is curved to operate different than a switch which is straight.

I hope this is clear and helpful. Perhaps members more knowledgeable then I could offer further information.

Take good care,

Zme
Offline hennabm  
#3 Posted : 13 October 2024 14:10:16(UTC)
hennabm

Scotland   
Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,073
Location: Edinburgh,
Hi Chris

The curved points are no different from the others in the M range and are live all the time.

To isolate them you can use the M isolating joiners, if the set doesn't come with them.

That's what i used when separating my double track set up.

Mike

IMG_4982.jpeg
1957 - 1985 era
What's digital?
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#4 Posted : 13 October 2024 15:03:39(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 581
Location: England, Cambridge
I think my question was really about how Marklin handle this within the context of this being a starter set. Are insulating joiners included in the set and are there instrcutions to remove the joiners from the turnouts? I know from experience that removing joiners isn't straightforward owing to the way they're anchored to the sleepers/ties and there is a risk of damaging the turnout (as I have found to my cost) so it all seems a bit beyond what you'd expect the buyer of a starter set to do.

Cheers


Chris
Offline Manga  
#5 Posted : 23 October 2024 11:56:49(UTC)
Manga

Australia   
Joined: 22/07/2022(UTC)
Posts: 62
Location: New South Wales, Sydney
You would think that as a "Deluxe Starter Pack" that isolating rail joiners would be included.
I could not find info on this, but Märklin does state "other hardware for wiring the layout", so still a question mark if included or even if your 2nd hand set still has it included.

Like mentioned, the curved turnouts come with regular metal rail joiners in which they transmit power.
You would need to isolate these so that both oval tracks have their own electrical circuit and can control either train independently.
Where the two curved turnouts join, you would need to replace the metal rail joiners with plastic isolators.

1st:
Bend plastic rail ties off the metal joiner in a downwards motion as it has a notch which will prevent the metal rail joiner from sliding off.
Then use tweezers or fine pliers to grasp sides of rail joiner and slide off (takes some practice as they come securely fastened), you might like to use a hobby knife to slightly bend side of joiner to loosen it a bit.

2nd:
Easiest option if the starter pack does not come with it, is to purchase the Märklin 8954. It comes with 10x plastic insulators that slide on like the metal rail joiners, and also includes 20x metal rail joiners.
Alternatively, fashion your own micro-sized plastic isolators from styrene, but that's micro-surgery and not for most people.





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