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Offline Harvey  
#1 Posted : 14 March 2024 18:28:10(UTC)
Harvey

United States   
Joined: 17/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 594
Location: Glen Oaks, N.Y.
Odd issue with this locomotive

When I turn on speed, the loc does not move. With a slight push, it moves just fine. I stop it and then increase speed and same sequences, I need to give it a small push. This occurs in both directions.


The settings are 'Without consumption, acceleration delay 30 (I do wait to give it a chance to move). Nothing special about any of the other settings. The pick up shoe looks clean. When it is moving, there is no hesitation or dead spots.

Appreciate any diagnose.

Harvey
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Offline marklinist5999  
#2 Posted : 14 March 2024 19:07:23(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,142
Location: Michigan, Troy
It seems I have had this issue with my br 212, 39212. The longer it runs, it is fine. Wheels clean too.
Offline Harvey  
#3 Posted : 14 March 2024 22:03:51(UTC)
Harvey

United States   
Joined: 17/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 594
Location: Glen Oaks, N.Y.
Will check the wheels and also open it up, maybe a loose wire

Thanks
Harvey
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Offline Harvey  
#4 Posted : 15 March 2024 00:01:47(UTC)
Harvey

United States   
Joined: 17/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 594
Location: Glen Oaks, N.Y.
Wheels were clean, but I did clean them to be certain. No loose wires. What is odd is the following

I have to give a small push to move. But after running it forward/reverse it no longer response to the nudge.
All the other F keys work- lights, horn whistle, sound, etc.

I suspect a fault in the board but that is something I can not test (knowledge being the first hurtle). Appreciate any other thoughts

Harvey
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Offline mike c  
#5 Posted : 15 March 2024 03:52:17(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,899
Location: Montreal, QC
The first thing to do would be to open remove the locomotive shell. Make sure that the power selection switch is completely set to receive power from the track.
From what I can tell, the model is not too different from the older models and still uses the chassis for the return. There does not seem to be any wheel contacts and wires to the circuit board.
The easiest test to determine if the locomotive is receiving power at all times would be to set the locomotive to receive power from the catenary and use two wires, one connected to the chassis and the other connected to the contact for the pantographs. See how the locomotive responds to power.

The problem may be with the motor itself. I would check to make sure that the brushes and springs have the correct tension.
Visually check the lead from the slider and the wires from the decoder to the chassis (return).
DO NOT touch any wires directly to the motor as this could damage the outputs of the decoder.
As the problem is with startup, my first guess would be that it may be motor related and not related to slider or wheels

I don't know if Red Caboose does any diagnosis, but RJ Frowenfeld (RJF Trains) in Katonah can likely help you.

Regards

Mike C
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Offline Bill L  
#6 Posted : 15 March 2024 04:43:44(UTC)
Bill L

United States   
Joined: 08/12/2021(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: California, Sonoma County
I have similar problems sometimes. In my cause, I noticed the 5 pole copper commutator on the armature has a lot of graphite brush powder caught in between the brass slit openings. I cleaned them out with a fine toothpick and removed all the black powder collected in the small cracks (space, and there are 5 of them). Also, use the more recent graphite brushes that have a bit of copper/bronze?? color to the black brush. I think these last longer and give out less black powder in the motor. The earlier ones used in analog motors were very black in color.
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Offline river6109  
#7 Posted : 15 March 2024 08:47:37(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,728
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: Bill L Go to Quoted Post
I have similar problems sometimes. In my cause, I noticed the 5 pole copper commutator on the armature has a lot of graphite brush powder caught in between the brass slit openings. I cleaned them out with a fine toothpick and removed all the black powder collected in the small cracks (space, and there are 5 of them). Also, use the more recent graphite brushes that have a bit of copper/bronze?? color to the black brush. I think these last longer and give out less black powder in the motor. The earlier ones used in analog motors were very black in color.


Recommendation: stop over oiling the motor, it ruins the brushes and the armature

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline river6109  
#8 Posted : 15 March 2024 08:49:29(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,728
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
inspect the brushes and see if they have a proper contact
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by river6109
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