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Have a old Marklin regulator which doesn't work in US
Joined: 23/04/2023(UTC) Posts: 3 Location: Florida, Tampa
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Hi, I have an old Marklin Ho train set(tracks, compartments and engines) which is in perfect condition. Problem is I have a Marklin 37540 blue regulator which doesn't work in the US because it is 220 V. It used to work perfectly in India. Could you please let me know which regulator I can buy in US which will work with my train set? Thank you. 
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,291 Location: Port Moody, BC
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They are called Transformers. For use in the USA you need a Marklin 6646 transformer available at AJCKIDS.
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Joined: 23/04/2023(UTC) Posts: 3 Location: Florida, Tampa
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Thanks Jean and Peter for the quick responses. I am going to buy the correct transformer today. I used to play with this set for many years when I was a kid and my 6 year will have a lot of fun once this is sorted out.
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Joined: 05/06/2004(UTC) Posts: 16 Location: Atlanta, GA
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Another option is to buy a 110V to 220V step-up transformer. This would be a cheaper option if you have several 220v transformers to power. Just get one with a higher Power (VA) rating than the combined ratings of all 220V devices you want to power. Most step-up offerings have the proper US and European plugs/sockets. Just google for: "110v to 220v step-up transformers" or something similar. -=tom=-
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Welcome! I wouldn't throw it away just yet! You can open it up, and check for a wire connection that has come loose at the solder point. I've had it happen. Easy fix. There may also be a fuse. Just use a slow speed drill on the rivets. Plastic scrap model kit sprue posts can be used in the holes for re-assembly. The cut them off flush with the case. Also may want to clean the rehostat with plastic safe spray contact cleanr while it's open. That the speed control under the knob.
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: marklinist5999  Welcome! I wouldn't throw it away just yet! You can open it up, and check for a wire connection that has come loose at the solder point. I've had it happen. Easy fix. There may also be a fuse. No easy fix: a transformer made for 220 V will not create a sufficiently high reversing voltage when used with 120 V. I assume the transformer is fully operational, but was just made for a different mains voltage. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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I dissagree Tom. I knew a German tool & die man who used 220v here and said his trains ran better. Digital too.
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: marklinist5999  I dissagree Tom. I knew a German tool & die man who used 220v here and said his trains ran better. Digital too. There are differences between transformers and switching-mode power supplies. The latter may work on 230 V and 120 V, but the former are for a single voltage only. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
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Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,291 Location: Port Moody, BC
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I'm not sure why the topic of a loose wire or blown fuse is even mentioned. The OP only said that he had this transformer that is rated for European voltage and wants to know what he needs to buy for US usage. He has that answer now.
For insurance and reliability purposes it is not worth the hassle of trying to use one of these incorrectly rated for US usage transformers compared to the price of a new one.
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 2 users liked this useful post by PMPeter
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Ok, he just said it didn't work. If he installs a 220 volt outlet from his breaker or fuse panel, it will work. Totally safe and approved by US standards. My table saw can use either voltage simply by moving the wires on the motor junction box. 220 volt draws less amerage for a given user or motor. My mail carrierrs father and brother are both electricians. They even told us we don't need to upgrade to breakers or house power because we have no problems. Circuit breakers can wear out too, and cost more than fuses.
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: marklinist5999  Ok, he just said it didn't work. If he installs a 220 volt outlet from his breaker or fuse panel, it will work. Totally safe and approved by US standards. But a potential risk for modern digital locos. The 6646 is the best option. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
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Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,291 Location: Port Moody, BC
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For less than $120 to buy a 6646 compared to the cost of hiring an electrician to wire in a dedicated 220 V plug it is just not worth it. Sure, depending on local regulations and permit requirements you might be able to legally do it yourself, but again the cost of the permit, breaker, cable, receptacle, plug, etc. will most likely exceed the cost of the 6646.
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Joined: 30/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 126 Location: Seattle area
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@anandks21, the US equivalent to yours is the 37547A which has the same output capacity of 10VA. As the others have posted, there are other US 120V 60Hz options. They usually have more capacity, but if it's a smaller layout the 37547A can work. As of today there are 5 listed on eBay in the US from $25-$55. Good luck whichever way you go!
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 1 user liked this useful post by ccranium
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Joined: 23/04/2023(UTC) Posts: 3 Location: Florida, Tampa
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Thanks everyone. I purchased the 6646 regulator and tried connecting it to my basic track today. The issue I have is the old feeder track has different output prongs compared to the new transformer's input. Is there a particular feeder straight track which is compatible with 6646? I don't want to cut the prongs off my old feeder track as it will still work with 220v regulator. I see this on AJCkids. Kindly advise. Thank you  https://ajckids.com/prod..._sid=5b7b3f0cb&_ss=r
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Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
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The simplest and easiest solution would be to cut the wires a short distance from the mm male connectors, strip the wires from the track and connect to the transformer. If you ever want to restore the mm male connector you can strip the wires from the connectors and join them to the track wires. The male connectors are usually just squeezed onto the wires so you could remove them and later squeeze them back on. Or you could try and find the female mm connector that fits - not easy - and squeeze them onto a wire but then you also have to insulate the connection. I think cutting the wires is the best solution.
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Joined: 11/07/2018(UTC) Posts: 217 Location: Aruba (general), Oranjestad
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Cutting is the easiest and fastest... But if you want to keep it original, just take another piece of M-track and solder two new wires on it and use that as a feeder track...
Regards
Jean-Pierre
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Joined: 30/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 126 Location: Seattle area
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Or if you don't want to create a feeder as Jean-Pierre suggests, get two Brawa 2.5mm sockets and create a pigtail for each wire. The pins from the feeder track go into a socket, and the other ends of the wires from those sockets go into the red and black connections on the 6646. If you care about the socket colors, red is Brawa 3046; brown is Brawa 3044. Usually available in packs of ten each on eBay. The Brawa sockets and pins are the same as those sold by Marklin. https://www.brawa.de/en/.../cables/3044-sockets-10/ https://www.brawa.de/en/.../cables/3046-sockets-10/ Regards, Brian
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Joined: 15/11/2023(UTC) Posts: 56 Location: Alberta, Calgary
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I too have (4) transformers,all 220V/50Hz..
I live in Canada and have 110V/60Hz.
The laundry dryer has 220V.. You only need to buy the special plugin and measure where the 220V is stitting.
The only concern I have is the 60Hz here... where the transfo want 50Hz.
Just started again on my European M-rail Märklin... (40+ years old)
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Joined: 04/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 480 Location: USA
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Originally Posted by: hermanvk  I too have (4) transformers,all 220V/50Hz..
I live in Canada and have 110V/60Hz.
The laundry dryer has 220V.. You only need to buy the special plugin and measure where the 220V is stitting.
The only concern I have is the 60Hz here... where the transfo want 50Hz.
Just started again on my European M-rail Märklin... (40+ years old) I'd get new(er) transformers with N Am voltage plugs. Old blue metal euros don't have modern protections and switching voltage limit. Not cheap, but safer return to hobby. I did so when returning to my 1960s collection. Old transformers can be used for scenery lights and such. |
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 1 user liked this useful post by BenP
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Joined: 15/11/2023(UTC) Posts: 56 Location: Alberta, Calgary
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Originally Posted by: BenP  Originally Posted by: hermanvk  I too have (4) transformers,all 220V/50Hz..
I live in Canada and have 110V/60Hz.
The laundry dryer has 220V.. You only need to buy the special plugin and measure where the 220V is stitting.
The only concern I have is the 60Hz here... where the transfo want 50Hz.
Just started again on my European M-rail Märklin... (40+ years old) I'd get new(er) transformers with N Am voltage plugs. Old blue metal euros don't have modern protections and switching voltage limit. Not cheap, but safer return to hobby. I did so when returning to my 1960s collection. Old transformers can be used for scenery lights and such. Thanks for the reply. I am just more curious about: Old blue metal euros don't have modern protections and switching voltage limit.
What exactly is or are the problems you are referring to? Other then that: I have no technical problems, connecting my European plugs to my Canadian 220V.... Thanks, Herman
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