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Offline Camwader  
#1 Posted : 18 January 2023 10:38:44(UTC)
Camwader

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/12/2022(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
I haven't yet decided what sort of layout I'm going to make, so in the mean time I'm just playing with my Z gauge in my 1/6th scale garage diorama.

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Offline Toosmall  
#2 Posted : 18 January 2023 22:30:03(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 387
Location: Sydney
If you want not only quality German trains, you can get some German Stahlwille spanners!

default_31.jpg
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Offline kimballthurlow  
#3 Posted : 19 January 2023 11:20:39(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,426
Location: Brisbane, Australia
1/6 scale.
Wow.
So that garage must be a metre long?

And the trainset would be at a scale of around 1/32

Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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Offline Camwader  
#4 Posted : 19 January 2023 11:50:23(UTC)
Camwader

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/12/2022(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
Kimball, That's about right. The garage was originally a single sided affair for photographing 1/6th scale bikes, but it evolved over the years to what you see here, and as with any full size garage, it ends up with all sorts of toys in it.

Camwader's Garage - 1/6th scale diorama
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Offline kiwiAlan  
#5 Posted : 19 January 2023 13:49:02(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 7,422
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: kimballthurlow Go to Quoted Post
1/6 scale.
Wow.
So that garage must be a metre long?

And the trainset would be at a scale of around 1/32

Kimball


So Z scale is being run as though it is G1 ... BigGrin BigGrin

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Offline Camwader  
#6 Posted : 19 January 2023 13:54:21(UTC)
Camwader

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/12/2022(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
Alan - That's right. G gauge would be 7.5mm at 1/6th scale, so Z gauge track at 6.5mm is close enough. I'm thinking of making a garden layout at 1/6th scale with the Z gauge acting as G scale.
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Offline kimballthurlow  
#7 Posted : 19 January 2023 22:23:07(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,426
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Thanks Jon for showing.
That is a real eye-opener and incredibly fastidious work.

I sort of understand the logic.
I have a 1/16 scale live steam 1880's railway engine, and picking up 1/16 bits like contemparary horses, road vehicles, tools, etc is a thing for me.

Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
Offline Camwader  
#8 Posted : 19 January 2023 23:16:11(UTC)
Camwader

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/12/2022(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
The 1/6th scale diorama is pretty much a finished project - with the occasional new addition. I also have a 1/12th scale garage diorama which is still a work in progress, but is complete enough for the purpose of photographing 1/12th scale cars. I haven't tried the Z gauge in there yet.

1/12th scale garage diorama
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Offline Toosmall  
#9 Posted : 20 January 2023 03:18:43(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 387
Location: Sydney
Not sure if I am missing something, but where is the beer?

Best beer ad ever made:


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Offline kimballthurlow  
#10 Posted : 20 January 2023 03:37:13(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,426
Location: Brisbane, Australia
It’s in the Electrolux fridge with the tractor on top.
Because the diorama was made in UK it is probably Boddingtons or McEwens. At least it would be 1/3 price of Aussie beer.
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
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Offline Mark5  
#11 Posted : 20 January 2023 03:50:27(UTC)
Mark5

Canada   
Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,322
Location: Montreal, Canada
Thanks for sharing and welcome to the forum!

Went through the whole slideshow of the garage in both scales. Thanks so much for sharing. Wonderful and inspiring work indeed!!

Curious which models you work on and build yourself and which parts are purchased and what you real-life IRL wheels in your own 1:1 garage might be. LOL

Funny to see you with a what appears to be a Morris Minor next to a Beetle.
Buddy of mine has a Morris. Fun to see the quizzical looks from onlookers who think its a Bug.

There are certain telltale signs in the game of looking to discover what appears to be a model or the "real thing"; camera angle from above gives it away, since it's very unlikely someone would be able to take shot through the roof, and the cars parked impossibly. Also perhaps the too perfectly even lighting. Curious to see what you might do with spot lighting. Smart move not to shoot the whole box from the outside to keep us all guessing.

Most important question to me personal is what kind of macro lenses and rig you use AND if you have ever done panning videos? I am hoping to do panning videos with macro lenses, but have not had any really measurable success yet. (read... time and resources as well as knowledge) Part of it for me is sometimes just minimizing some of my building and collection goals.

Thanks again. What a treat to see.
Mark

P.S. Look forward to see what you plan to do with a Z-scale set.
DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1955-65, fan of V200, electrics and steam, so hard to narrow down...
...signaling systems, yard traffic and shunting, Sommerfeldt catenary,
and station architecture (esp. stations from 1920-70).
In process: a new modular layout, track planning and drawing benchwork.
Email anytime or chat live: https://discord.gg/jAEKyTWQPQ
Offline hxmiesa  
#12 Posted : 20 January 2023 06:35:14(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,371
Location: Spain
Wonderful stuff.
Well done.
Thanks for sharing.
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline Camwader  
#13 Posted : 20 January 2023 10:45:33(UTC)
Camwader

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/12/2022(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
Hi Mark, Thanks for your comments – you packed a lot of questions in there.

Which models are mine? Most of the 1/12th cars are either diecast or resin cast ready made, with a few kits. The barn find or wrecked cars are my work, usually on cheap ‘spares or repair’ models found on Ebay. There are three Morris Minors.
About half of the 1/6th bikes are built by me from kits, mostly Tamiya with a few Testors.
Any canoes or kayaks in either scale are all my work.

My real life garage contains a 1972 MkIV Triumph Spitfire, a 1985 Midas Bronze Mk2 and a 1986 AC 3000ME.

Lighting. I put very little effort in to lighting, just tend to go with ambient room lighting, which sometimes is natural day light, sometimes tungsten or LED or whatever bulbs are these days. Almost never use flash.

Most model photos are taken with an Olympus Tough series camera. I have DSLRs and a FujiFilm mirrorless, but I prefer the results I get with a smaller more manoeuvrable camera.
My current fave is an Olympus TG5 which has a great ‘in camera’ macro focus stacking function which gives great depth of field. I also use my phone camera sometimes for wide view shots.
I haven’t done much video work, but the few reasonable clips I’ve produced were using a GoPro with a homemade macro lens adaptor – I’ve put a couple of links below.

Class 66 Loco test run

Harley Davidson FatBoy
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Offline Toosmall  
#14 Posted : 20 January 2023 21:34:48(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 387
Location: Sydney
Often the small sensor camera are the best solution for good depth of field photos in these situations. Even if you don't do focus stacking, put the camera on its lowest ISO setting, set to Raw file. If you can't set to Raw the highest quality JPG setting will do.

Take 4 photos. I have tested up to 32 photos, 8 if you are keen, but beyond is really not worthwhile. So 4 is not not too time consuming but averages out sensor noise to a pretty worthwhile point.

If stacking manually in Photoshop etc, it is 100% bottom photo, 50% next photo, 33% 3rd, 25% top photo.

Not 25%, 25%, 25%, 25%.

A separate issue, sharpening the L channel in LAB and blurring AB channels is better than doing it in RBG. While at it double resolution first to average sharpening noise, then half resolution.

IMG_14805_080807.jpg

IMG_1480_centre_114124.jpg

Canon S90 (Better than my Canon G9) due to the small sensor. But it did need work due to sensor noise. Couldn't do this the my Canon DSLR or even less so with my Mamiya RZ67.

I do (basically retired) 3d architectural scenes, as difficult as it was building a 3d model, I would say about a 1/3 of the time was setting up good lighting in the 3d space.

The same for photographing models, spend the time in the lighting. Any blocking, bounce, focus, colour temperature will make the image look better. Just cutting a hole in a piece of paper & mount with a coat hanger can change the mood of the scene lighting at next to no expense.

The only issue is that when you get in so close you end up showing the shocking building quality of the cheap labour employed! Deviation in track and platforms not level.

For small lighting effects Rosco colour gel 3 x 6 inch fandeck is a good investment.
https://www.bhphotovideo...els/ci/1329/N/3662541030

I have some Arri lights but I do like working with afternoon sun as it forces you to think quickly for different lighting situations.
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Offline Camwader  
#15 Posted : 21 January 2023 10:33:40(UTC)
Camwader

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/12/2022(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
Thanks for the advice and guidance Toosmall.
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