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Offline johnmarklin  
#1 Posted : 28 June 2022 15:35:40(UTC)
johnmarklin

Ireland   
Joined: 31/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 166
Location: Ireland
Good afternoon fellow Marklin enthusiasts.

I hope someone will be able to advise me. I have just acquired a mint condition Marklin Maxi BR 110 cat. no. 54212. Unfortunately it does not have the original decoder fitted. I am trying to decide on the most suitable decoder to use in place of the original. Has anyone replaced the original decoder from one of these locomotives? Can anyone advise me? Also the inside of the locomotive is a tangle of wires with no indication of which wire goes where. Would anyone have an image of the inside of the locomotive that might help me re-wire it correctly. And finally does anyone know where I could download an owner's manual from?

Looking forward to your replies,

John
Offline PKLemmon  
#2 Posted : 06 August 2022 09:37:26(UTC)
PKLemmon

New Zealand   
Joined: 06/08/2022(UTC)
Posts: 1
Location: Waikato
Hi John.
Ive done two of these Marklin Maxi BR110 electric loco conversions over the last 10 years and they all are still running very well.

The last one was your particular MAXI model. I also added two cab mounted cameras transmitting back to a simulated driving desk with dead man's pedal and large screen - so there is PLENTY of room inside your model to do a nice conversion job!

I've done about 25 Marklin and ESU Pullman 1:32 loco conversions over the last 15 years - all with ESU XL Loksound. Your loco was one of the more satisfying.

To start Ill try to keep it brief, and add more info later depending upon what you decide to do.

Both my BR110 conversions were done by installing new ESU XL Loksound decoders (1 x ESU 3.5 and your model was with an ESU v4. I recommend ESU XL (version 5) sound and control because it bring these big beauties to life, and because of ease of installation, and the very good support documentation from ESU.

Here's the PKL 10 big steps. Detail later if you decide to go

1. Obtain a ESU XL Loksound Version 4 or 5, together with a matching high quality speaker (Recommend ESU or VISATION 4 to 32 ohms 6-12w!, 57 to 78mm with sound chamber or equivalent, and please read the ESU Manual and web site on XL speakers and installation before purchase). This should be you only real significant cost of conversion.
2 Sort out the internal wiring - Ill lead u thru - its not as messy as it may appear
3 Install the speaker. Need to GET THIS RIGHT or somethings going to pop.
4 build a simple platform over the top of and clear of the speaker parallel to the loco base by using the original mounting posts or equivalent for surface mounting the decoder
5. Install the modified 2-wire simple lighting loom (new) . The direction sensitive driving lights are two wire 2 colour 12v leds. So Please do not let them anywhere near 1 scale track power, and closely protect each pair from the very start.
6. Install the decoder in stages and test as you go - ill guide you thru
7 Test bed (rollers?) loco un and tune / program the decoder, especially the motor control CVs for the two motors - ill give you the CV values.
8 Connect and test the driving lights
9 install other functions such as cab and engine room lights if required (recommended) - can be leds or 12v incandescent variants
10 Test track loco run and impress your mates with stunning loco control and sounds over a bottle of bubbly.

If you wish to proceed then please send me preferably by EMAIL some high quality photos of your loco in good lighting and clear surroundings to ensure nothing has been added or changed from manufacture, or altered because of previous work - cos do we know if it has ever run?
1. each side of the loco with all roof sections in place (no need to screw them on) with both pantographs up and then in lower parked position.
2 each cab end external down into the inside
3 underside (take roof off) of both bogies and of the complete length of the loco (reasonable high res please)
4 Inside with roof off, down into each end of the body and one full length
5 one general photo of the large white Marklin loco shipping box, plus a photo of the top side of the black shipping base, and of both large shipping bolts and spacers please.

Can you by possibly obtain the discarded guts of this loco? No sweat if you cant.

May talk again soon? Good luck!
MY EMAIL IS petelemm 'at' gmail 'dot' com

Peter
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by PKLemmon
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#3 Posted : 06 August 2022 11:06:52(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,409
Location: New Zealand
Great to see you here Peter, welcome to the marklin-users forum. We need someone with extensive 1 Gauge experience on the forum, Per ( Purellum Offline ) has been our only expert up until now.

I took the liberty of editing your email address in the above post, so as to prevent the harvesting thereof by spam bots.
Offline johnmarklin  
#4 Posted : 12 August 2022 14:19:13(UTC)
johnmarklin

Ireland   
Joined: 31/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 166
Location: Ireland
Peter,

Thank you for your reply and all of the interesting information included in it. My apologies for the delay in replying. I have just been discharged from hospital after a few weeks stay. I will take a few weeks to recover.

My original plan was just to install a basic multi protokol decoder but having read your message you are tempting me to be a bit more ambitious. The locomotive itself is in mint condition but the original decoder is missing. The original box is a blue Maxi with cellophane window.

I will not do any work on it for a while becasue I am helping a friend repair/service a number of LGB locomotives that he has bought for his new garden railway.

I will send you images when I begin to work on it.

John
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by johnmarklin
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