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Offline revmox  
#1 Posted : 30 November 2021 07:46:42(UTC)
revmox

Australia   
Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC)
Posts: 147
Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
I've built a small layout using C track and now need to add some scenery. I have a reasonable idea of what I want and I'm fairly confident to order most of the scenic items but I'm not sure if there any special requirements for stations to use with C track, particularly the platforms. I assume that if I get the right platforms then there will be plenty of choice of what buildings and items to place on them. I don't want to order items from Faller, Auhagen, Kibri or whatever and possibly wait months for them to get to Australia and then find I can't really use them.

The first station needs to only to be a simple affair with a straight platform, 1960's - 1970's era, around 70-80 cm long, not including end ramps. Is there a simple solution? I would really appreciate some tips on the way ahead.

Mark
Offline Alsterstreek  
#2 Posted : 30 November 2021 08:37:51(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,666
Location: Hybrid Home
Depending on era and locale, there used to be an array of platform types, ranging from loose gravel at railhead level to elevated ones with solid ground and lateral support. End ramps were and are no must. The EBO 1967 determined a platform height of 38 cm to 76 cm above railhead level.

If you want to keep it simple (and don’t replicate a lateral support structure), you could use a painted wooden slat, for C track with a height of at least 1 cm.
Offline Alsterstreek  
#3 Posted : 30 November 2021 10:36:46(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,666
Location: Hybrid Home
Even today a the lateral support of a platform can look quite simple:

https://www.waldbahnhof-leitstade.de/

https://commons.wikimedi.../File:Darmstadt_Nord.jpg
Offline revmox  
#4 Posted : 30 November 2021 10:37:27(UTC)
revmox

Australia   
Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC)
Posts: 147
Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
Thanks,

It seems like a solid wooden or similar base could be one easy way ahead - any length, width or height as needed.

Somewhere prowling around the net I thought I saw some platform facings that could be fitted to the edge - that might help.

Mark



thanks 1 user liked this useful post by revmox
Offline Toosmall  
#5 Posted : 30 November 2021 12:34:32(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Sydney
You could use high impact polystyrene sheet, For HO I would do it in 1.0mm. In Australia a 1370 x 760 sheet is about $18


The platform and awnings for my Z gauge is completely scratch built out of white 0.75mm styrene sheet and the bitumen surface is simply three paint colour out of 150ml spray cans. The edge of the platform was resprayed a bit lighter after masking the centre area. The awning roof I scored in the lines.

_MG_7658_102054.jpg
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
Offline Toosmall  
#6 Posted : 01 December 2021 08:17:32(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Sydney
Close up of spray paint texture.

_MG_7683_061344.jpg
Offline revmox  
#7 Posted : 01 December 2021 08:34:37(UTC)
revmox

Australia   
Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC)
Posts: 147
Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
That looks great. I've decided to give that method a try. Thanks for the inspiration.

I'm involved with ride on railways and the experts tell me that for every masterpiece there are many failed attempts in the bin.

I'll go and buy some bigger bins. BigGrin
Offline Toosmall  
#8 Posted : 01 December 2021 10:23:46(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Sydney
I posted some information down this page on solvent for polystyrene.

https://www.marklin-user...sts/t27449-Glue-question

I generally try to divide the parts up into different pieces to avoid masking, or as the very least so the masking is simple.

If you are doing line markings think about masking them first.

I use powdercoat 150ml touch up cans, they have most of the typical building colours, have used a couple of thousand cans. Also the odd 150ml car touch up can for different colours. It's the same paint. Avoid the 400ml cans as they don't spray as well.

Get a grey similar to the grey colour you need and a white and a black. For lots of texture spray on a warm day, I often heat the cans in a bucket of hot water, but you will get a finer spray. Hold the can further away, it is finding the balance of heat and distance. Always spray only as you pass the surface and then finger off the nozzle. On off on off on off.....

It is tiring on the finger, but do not continuously hold the nozzle down. Spray a bit of white and black. Then spray a bit more grey. If you don't spray a bit of the base colour at the end, when you look at the surface at an acute angle it will look the last colour you sprayed. You can add a whisker of other colours for moss etc to vary surface. If a bit unsure look at a colour wheel for opposite colours can help. But it is really a bit of experimenting.

Get set up so you are completely ready, all cans heated. Practice on offcuts. If you are having issues getting texture right leave it for another day.

Road markings pre masked. For very fine lines stick a length of masking tape down on a piece of plastic and cut off very narrow strips with a scalpel, 10A blades are good, box of 100 is the way to go. Chuck out the first edge of masking tape. Also tape takes off the edge of the blade so replace often if you want the finest of edges. For kerb and guttering I usually mask and cut away with a spacer so I get the exact width of gutter, and it's quicker.

Masked road markings:
IMG_7529_022721.jpg

_MG_7643_031125.jpg

P.S. Wear a face mask!
thanks 3 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
Offline kimballthurlow  
#9 Posted : 02 December 2021 04:50:39(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,655
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hi Mark,
For my island platforms (without a station building) with a roof, I started with Auhagen 11440 or similar.
This gives the sensible width for a typical C track separation.
(Without roof is product 41634).
Then I extended it with wood pieces cut to size and painted the top a similar colour.
Platforms are called Bahnsteig in German.

See Auhagen 11440

For a platform and station building, any of the HO kits would be fine.
Again I extended the platform length with wood and suitable colour top using paints or fine sandpaper.
For straight track I like that the platform structure buts against the C track plastic ballast and that gives the right clearance for any HO railway vehicles.

Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kimballthurlow
Offline revmox  
#10 Posted : 04 December 2021 18:50:13(UTC)
revmox

Australia   
Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC)
Posts: 147
Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
Thanks Kimball and Toosmall,

I appreciate the time to give such great answers and I apologize for not replying sooner but some dramas have kept me from the keyboard.

I think the answer for my layout will be a mix of both approaches and I have started to chase down the materials. Given the incredibly long delays for international orders at the moment, who carries good stock of European scenery items in Australia? Looking at some local websites shows many items out of stock and phone calls to some suppliers reveal they have no intention of restocking or taking orders.

Cheers and thanks again,

Mark
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by revmox
Offline Toosmall  
#11 Posted : 04 December 2021 22:13:29(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Sydney
Over the last three months I have had 3 orders from Europe, 1 from Japan and 2 from Hong Kong all turn up in 1 to 3 weeks. 2 orders from the US for train bits have been returned to senders even though I paid the top freight rate. I still want the orders. From my point of view US seems to be the problem.

P.S. I sent a PM.
Offline Mr. Ron  
#12 Posted : 08 December 2021 23:26:33(UTC)
Mr. Ron

United States   
Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC)
Posts: 311
Location: Mississippi, Vancleave
It would seem to me a platform height would be measured from the track ties up to the passenger car door sill. In HO that measures .875" (7/8") on my layout.
Offline H0  
#13 Posted : 09 December 2021 08:59:24(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,254
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: Mr. Ron Go to Quoted Post
It would seem to me a platform height would be measured from the track ties up to the passenger car door sill.
IRL it is measured from the top edge of the rail to the top edge of the platform.

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline Mr. Ron  
#14 Posted : 11 December 2021 21:22:42(UTC)
Mr. Ron

United States   
Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC)
Posts: 311
Location: Mississippi, Vancleave
Originally Posted by: Toosmall Go to Quoted Post
I posted some information down this page on solvent for polystyrene.

https://www.marklin-user...sts/t27449-Glue-question

I generally try to divide the parts up into different pieces to avoid masking, or as the very least so the masking is simple.

If you are doing line markings think about masking them first.

I use powdercoat 150ml touch up cans, they have most of the typical building colours, have used a couple of thousand cans. Also the odd 150ml car touch up can for different colours. It's the same paint. Avoid the 400ml cans as they don't spray as well.

Get a grey similar to the grey colour you need and a white and a black. For lots of texture spray on a warm day, I often heat the cans in a bucket of hot water, but you will get a finer spray. Hold the can further away, it is finding the balance of heat and distance. Always spray only as you pass the surface and then finger off the nozzle. On off on off on off.....

It is tiring on the finger, but do not continuously hold the nozzle down. Spray a bit of white and black. Then spray a bit more grey. If you don't spray a bit of the base colour at the end, when you look at the surface at an acute angle it will look the last colour you sprayed. You can add a whisker of other colours for moss etc to vary surface. If a bit unsure look at a colour wheel for opposite colours can help. But it is really a bit of experimenting.

Get set up so you are completely ready, all cans heated. Practice on offcuts. If you are having issues getting texture right leave it for another day.

Road markings pre masked. For very fine lines stick a length of masking tape down on a piece of plastic and cut off very narrow strips with a scalpel, 10A blades are good, box of 100 is the way to go. Chuck out the first edge of masking tape. Also tape takes off the edge of the blade so replace often if you want the finest of edges. For kerb and guttering I usually mask and cut away with a spacer so I get the exact width of gutter, and it's quicker.

_MG_7643_031125.jpg

P.S. Wear a face mask!


How is it that your road vehicles are driving on the right side of the road? Don't Aussies drive on the left?

Offline kiwiAlan  
#15 Posted : 12 December 2021 00:03:03(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Mr. Ron Go to Quoted Post


How is it that your road vehicles are driving on the right side of the road? Don't Aussies drive on the left?



But he is modelling Germany (or Europe, in general).

Offline Toosmall  
#16 Posted : 12 December 2021 14:00:51(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Sydney
Not in Australia.

_MG_7643_115657.jpg
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