Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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It was a bit difficult to find Z gauge buses, so made them. The basic plastic is 0.75mm styrene sheet. The Mercedes bus has a more square body so was easier to build using the basic straight surfaces. The A pillars were a bit thin so I had to be careful not to break them, which I did on two buses. The bendy bus and double decker were actually a bit easier to make as there was a bit more stronger areas holding the buses together. The concertina in the bendy bus was layers of 0.4mm strips with spacers, then spacers cut off later. Masked to paint dark grey, after the red colour. It is actually hollow inside the bus so one can "walk" through. I put 37kW air conditioning units on the buses as in general one is looking down on the roofs, using some offcuts of stainless steel balustrade. Also emergency exit hatches. Wheels are a few styrene tubes running the width of the body, something to glue down, to create rims and tyres. Also sanded a whisker off the bottom of the tyres so the tyres look better on the road. There are small strips inside to locate the glazing. Glazing was some spare polarising filter gel/film 0.5mm plastic sheet from Bhphoto in New York. I made sure all the polarising film was horizontal orientation so if you are wearing polarising sun glasses the glazing doesn't go black with two right angle filters. Window frames are just a scored line. I didn't detail the inside of the buses, after about a day and a half per bus I had had enough and the glazing is dark enough to hide the interior to a good enough degree, but still showing lightness so the bus doesn't look like a solid lump of plastic. The double decker, painted the green first then masked off to paint black. Paint is 150ml powder touch up cans, same a car touch up spray cans. Not ideal but I'm happy with it. Probably should have sanded the styrene with a few finer grades of sand paper. I use Norton waterproof paper as it is better quality.    (Everything on wrong side of the road for photo. Road has camber, about 1mm higher in the centre. Road sign panel 12.5 x 8mm etched stainless steel) 
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Again not much in the way of a decent van so did my best to knock up a Deutsche Post Volkswagen Transporter. About a day's work.   Masked twice, first for the black bumpers on the pauper commercial model, and then for the headlights in aluminium colour.    Signage was done on my laser printer.  The road markings were masked then I spray painted the road with three colours, keeping cans at a distance to create more texture.  Waiting for a pile of people to turn up, much easier to have buildings removable to install street furniture.
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,593 Location: Spain
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 1 user liked this useful post by hxmiesa
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,888 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Nice! I know how working in Z scale is difficult. The yellow van proves it by the giant door handles, which are very small just on their own.
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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It is difficult getting down to this size. I need to stick on the high level brake light. After building my vehicles I realised just how poor the bought ones are. Windows on every car don't line up, flash from mould, rough on the side where the body is cut off and no mirrors. Also all over scale. In the meantime I have stuck windscreen wipers on the van and Deutsche Post logo on the sides. 
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,888 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Oh, no doubt! I'd try a thin red sharpy marker for the rear stop light. At most a thin tiny piece pf platic for a raised lens.
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 682 Location: London
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Is the body of the van a 3-D print or did you just make all the parts from sheet material and then stick them together? It looks very neat.
Carim
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Same as the buses in the top photo built out of 0.75mm high impact styrene sheet. Once the basic shape was right I stuck on strips for the roof ribs etc.
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 2 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,888 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Those look superb! The top one looks like a Ford Transit, the middle a VW, or Mercedes Vivaro, or visa versa. The SUV a Range rover or Mitsubishi Montero.
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Defender L663 110 santorini black metallic (drug dealer colour with "tinted" headlights). I was going to do a lighter colour but it required masking so decided to go for black. It is getting painful at this scale. The wheel rims I had made separately to paint aluminium colour but as the wheels are a bit too large, decided to go with black to help visually reduce their size. A note on how small the tail lights are. I very carefully stab the front face of the tail light, it's hard to target precisely, with the point of a new 10A scalpel blade, touch the back of the tail light on the solvent and then touch the tail light onto the surface, which then pulls it off the scalpel blade. Try to position it correctly, down to less than 0.1mm, it's hard work.    I printed the drawings off to 1:220 scale. The vans took about a day and a half each. The Land Rover about two days work but I did leave it over a few nights for the solvent for the styrene to go off better.  I am glad I started with the buses being an in principle square shape, just so much easier. If I had started with the cars I would have given up and then no buses.
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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A Mercedes Econic waste management truck. It was relatively easy to build, but still about a day's work. Overall length is 42mm. I seemed to knock off a mirror and one orange lights down the side. One can see more imperfections in the photo than the actual model.   Still need to do landscaping around the houses.  Preparing to put on the summer wheels. The spokes were fiddly, 0.25 x 1.5mm styrene cut into short strips. Then a thin cap stuck on top. Styrene tube ID is 3.2mm. Still have to put the logo on the rims. 
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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 7 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Started a Unimog U216 production line. Have a few model variation ideas. First one with road side grass cutter. It started as one cutter, then I got a bit carried away with second cutter..... triple? The rear cutting arm does swivel, but this is simply to make painting easier so I don't have to mask for all the different colours. The cabin needs finishing off plus other details so it's road worthy!  
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Some of the parts for the first Unimog plus 4 additional chassis. I have divided up the different coloured parts. A few black parts will have to be stuck on after. Tyres are seperate from the rim. I actually did the tyre tread with 0.25 x 0.5mm styrene strips, it was one of the easier parts to do, just a bit tedious. The fan shape thing, only the end 2mm will be used for the fuel tank, second and forth pieces will be black for the straps holding the tank. All the parts will have a sprues added to hold the part for spray painting. Have to pick up some touch up spray cans later in the week. In the foreground is part of the rear facing warning lights which is mounted on a roof rack. Exhaust pipe (missing) will be on the right, opposite to the air intake which is attached as it is black. AdBlue and water tanks are black so stuck on to the chassis. Also decided to do the cabin internals.  
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Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 997 Location: Netherlands
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Simply amazing! I would struggle to create something like this in H0 scale... Gregor
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Thank you for the comment. Got some new paint cans, spray painted the parts, mostly for the first Unimog and another new vehicle as it is the same colour. These are the parts I really couldn't stick on to paint in one go. It is one job building the vehicle, but another job thinking out the process for assembly. 
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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I will do some more photos tomorrow with better lighting. The other vehicle in the previous spray painting parts photo is a Schmidt Swingo 200. Then I have to get back on to the remaining Unimogs, still have 16 tyres to tread! Some of the other Unimogs I have the twin slit grill, I wasn't game on the first one.  (Just noticed one of the safety lights knocked over)
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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The main body of the Unimog is 23mm long.  Still have to fix road side landscaping.  The Schmidt Swingo is only 5.9mm wide, the two rows of orange infill strips have gone a whisker wide. The grill at the rear is made up of 0.25mm thick styrene strips. I was going to use a tiny bit of blue pipe cleaner for the brushes but it was hard to get the brushes small enough. I had first tried with an old Braun electric tooth brush, "recycling" the blue bristles, but it was way over scale.   The road and footpath texture is holding the spray cans further away so the paint is dryish as it hits the surface.
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 6 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 2,261 Location: Hobart, Australia
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Wonderful work. I admire your fine detail skills.
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Have been avoiding building the remaining Unimogs. A PistonBully 400. The tracks were made up from some stainless steel balustrade and other bits of various offcuts for the plough. I just need to add some snow in the mountains.  
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Can now groom the snow with rotary plough, snow flap adjuster and shield installed. The front plough is a bit undersize, if I'm in the mood I'll upgrade it. I did install dashboard and seats in the cabin, mainly just to cut back the red paint inside from spraying.     The stainless steel balustrade for the tracks, there are two layers, the inside layer is black. Only with the outer layer the track looked a bit thin. (have to vacuum the trees a bit more thoroughly!)
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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 5 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Sprayed the blue on the petrol station facia, and did a quick scene set up with the new vehicles. Drilled a 0.75mm hole with a pin vise in the bottom of each of the awning columns to pin the awning to the road with offcuts of paperclips so it won't fall over, and so I can remove it to do further detail and position cars more easily.    Shot at 16mm f16, sharpened luminosity channel in LAB colour space (can also be done to a copied layer set to luminosity in RGB, but sometimes I want to blur A and B channels a few pixels to reduce colour artefacts, good if you are trying to fix a jpg) a20/r30/t0 to increase local contrast by sharpening, doubled image size, sharpened luminosity channel a200/r1.4/t0, halved image size (sharpening a doubled size is better than sharpening half the amount at the original size). Then the 3 sized images cropped and scaled to required size and sharpened a50/r0.3/t0.
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 3 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,422 Location: Montreal, Canada
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Had to show my wife this thread. You know when I do that, I like the work. So does she.
Respect.
With that patience, may you have many grandchildren. |
DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1950-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70. In single point perspective, where do track lines meet?
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Finally pulling the finger out for my 4 remaining Unimogs, 90% complete for far too long.  Embarrassing, eating too many prawn cutlets & asking for a chili sauce requiring containers for "chili sauce"... nevertheless the containers are useful!  The only really difficult issue rather than asking for a halve dozen prawns or 2 x half dozen!... was the last colour. It was yellow, red or orange. In the end went for orange which could be used as a secondary/backup vehicle in a sub scene. Blue, turquoise (from Eckersley's, cost a fortune, but that's how it is) & lime Green (within reason from Holts 150g touch-up cans) were Unimog colours I found on actual vehicle colours. 
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 2 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Once in a lifetime confluence of 216 Unimogs. I will add a bit more detail, but at least all the hard stuff is done. On the layout at normal viewing distance it will be hard to see fine details. 
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 3 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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I hadn't actually planned to make a Unimog snowplough (English spelling), but after seeing some pretty ordinary 3D printed Z gauge models, thought I would see if I could do a touch better by hand.      I should have removed the rear section of the vertical tray, but then it would have been more painting, so I just raised the stone spreader a bit higher, I can live with that at 1:220 scale. The actual plough is a compound curve made from 2 Evergreen diameter tubes. The stainless behind the plough is some repurposed stainless just to look busy. Still will add windscreen wipers & a few other minor details. The safety grate on the hopper was some repurposed stainless steel etching (one can just see the etching undercut due to photo etching from both sides. 0.25mm alignment is pushing etching on 0.3mm stainless steel to the limit) gaps are bit too large, but the most suitable repurposing of etchings I had, It's ok for this situation. I have a pile of Trafofuchs Z gauge figures yet to stick on the layout, a few skiers. Unless you want to torture yourself with a 000 size Winsor Newton series 7 brush, just buy the figures. There are on par with the Preiser figures.
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 4 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 22/07/2022(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: New South Wales, Sydney
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All that's needed now are orange flashing 0402 SMD LEDs. Your skills blow my mind, but I know you have a lot of experience at model making. Well done and thanks for sharing. What interests me the most is the metal supports for the plough. Is that etched ? How was that done ?
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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The etched stainless behind the plough, is a 2mm square grid for a building lattice. I bent it over & snipped out the end for top & bottom (first) for plough. Only glued at the bottom. Was going to drill & key it in, but it was too fiddly. There is also a triangle piece as well which was part of a pontoon access ramp. I did all the artwork in Adobe Illustrator, it's a lot of work setting it up, but quite satisfying. Morris Graphics, Mortdale NSW did the etching, sheet is about 300 x 500mm. Costs a lot of money so you cram in as much as possible & think what you may need in the future. The fold up seats I poked in every available corner. I like stainless because if you don't get a bend just right you have a second chance, brass you don't. Also paint sticks really well. Often buildings simply need stainless balustrade etc, so no painting. You do get cut, but not the nasty cuts from brass which take longer to heel. 
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 2 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 22/07/2022(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: New South Wales, Sydney
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