Hello Ricardo, hope all is well.
This is one machine which really works on cleaning, frames, wheel trucks, axles, wheel sets, etc. it cleans better than any hand cleaning could because it cleans everywhere, no spot is missed. When I drop in a brush contact, it cleans it to like new. Copper wheel contacts actually look shiny and clean. I don’t use it for motors, I still clean these by hand. I would not put in a body shell either.
When I was considering buying one I asked on this forum too. It can get very technical and I am certain this is what you discovered also. They can be very expensive, large and have a multitude of features. Several years ago, I purchased a cheaper, orient made unit which is smaller but not the smallest because I wanted to be sure the parts would fit it in. It has a stainless tub with a plastic cage insert, to catch the parts. I found our parts were so small, they would slip thru the cage, so I put a glass into the cage. I add all the parts together and clean them all at one time. I add distilled water to the tank, then more to the glass and a few shots of the cleaner. I add the parts into the glass. I found it helpful to use a tweezer with a magnetic end to retrieve the parts from the glass. This retrieval process can increase the potential to drop or lose a part, so be careful.
I suppose this multiple setup might take a bit longer for it to work, but with these small parts, cleaning is not a long drawn out process. I add a light spray cleaning liquid like Simply Green or something similar. They do provide a sample of their cleaning liquid and when comparing the results against the Simply Green, I could not see a difference. Simply green is not being used full strength here. You probably don’t want a heavy corrosive cleaner, just a light cleaner. Let the machine do the work. I always fresh cleaning liquids each time, dumping out the tub after I am finished. I have noticed, some parts like the frame or lower gear cover, lose some of their burnish color if left in the cleaner to long and be certain to put a small bit of oil into the screw holes to avoid rust in these areas. I don’t leave these parts in the cleaner very long, perhaps one cycle only for this reason.
My cleaner is a basic one and cleans in a countdown cycle which are nine minutes each. If the part is not clean, I have to repeat the cycle several times. I have never had it clean enough in one cycle, it always takes more. If you think it is important to have longer cleaning cycles, you could look for a machine with this feature. Perhaps shorter cleaning cycles might be possible if the intensity could be adjusted. Perhaps a unit with this feature is available. I don’t mind how long it takes because I can be busy with another part like the motor. It might take 15 minutes or more to get the parts clean enough but I may be a bit over fussy. Anyway this will vary depending on the machine you buy.
When the parts has been cleaned, I usually drop them in isopropyl alcohol (99%) for a moment to clean the liquid off and then use compressed air to dry it. Never just leave the cleaning liquid on the part or let the part sit in the alcohol for extended periods as it might affect the finish.
I decided on an entry level machine which cost $50 or less just to decide for myself if they work. I quick discovered they in fact do. It is much easier to clean a locomotive with it. I clean wheelsets from the wagons and they look nearly new when finished. Now I drop in an entire truck assembly from a loco and don’t even disassemble it. Just be certain to douse it in the alcohol bath and blow it dry with your compressed air. It cleans up this way, no problem. You can even clean jewelry when you want to or other family items.
Hope this helps you decide. You can choose your cost ceiling, but even the cheap ones work, and keep working for more than several years. Perhaps when this one wears out, I could get a bit more expensive one, but don’t see a reason to go overboard. You might consider a similar approach.
Take good care.
Dwight
