Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hello everyone! I'm new here. Sorry for my English. I am writing through a translator. I have very little information about Marklin in my country. Therefore, I will sometimes ask you. I hope not to bother you too much. I need information about steam locomotive 37558. Is it possible to manage it with Mobile Station 60657? Is it possible to add to this Loko, a sound decoder? Edited by user 13 March 2021 16:17:02(UTC)
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 2 users liked this useful post by Maxxx
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW
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Hi! Welcome to the forum! Originally Posted by: Maxxx  Is it possible to manage it with Mobile Station 60657? Yes. Address, maximum speed and acceleration delay are adjusted with a screwdriver. Loco can be operated with MS2. Originally Posted by: Maxxx  Is it possible to add to this Loko, a sound decoder? Yes, but it's not easy. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
 1 user liked this useful post by H0
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Thanks! I didn't expect such a quick response.
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Another question: Is the 39050 steam locomotive powerful enough for a multi-level layout? Big wheels confuse me. Big wheels good for speed, but not power. What is Soft Drive? This is some kind of additional impulse when driving ? https://www.maerklin.de/...ts/details/article/39050
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Originally Posted by: Maxxx  Another question: Is the 39050 steam locomotive powerful enough for a multi-level layout? Big wheels confuse me. Big wheels good for speed, but not power. What is Soft Drive? This is some kind of additional impulse when driving ? https://www.maerklin.de/...ts/details/article/39050 Soft drive was the second sinus motor design. A can motor with a sinewave core. Marklin has since discontinued both in favor of conventional can motors like Piko and Roco use. If you would like to connect with a felllow Russian collector/modeller via Instagram, one is Anton EEP. He works in a rail museum in St. Petersburg. His English is very good, so he can translate. I myself know zero Ceryllic.
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Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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As for the pulling power of the locos, it depends not only of the motor but also if the overall design of the loco and of course of the grade of your ramps. My 39050 pulls a nice consist in 5% grades with no major troubles. Regards |
 German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: Maxxx  What is Soft Drive? That is the third generation of brushless DC motors used by Märklin. Quiet motors with ball bearings, maintenance-free. AIUI those brushless motors are used quite often for aviation models as they offer very high efficiency. However using them for analogue model trains leads to problems. The real DB 05 003 was used with short trains only because it was not as strong as it looked. The model should do well with short trains even on inclines. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Max Originally Posted by: Maxxx  What is Soft Drive? This is some kind of additional impulse when driving ? Here is a video on the Soft Drive Sinus motor It is a brushless threephase motor with ball bearings and a helicoidal magnetic rotor Cheers Jean |
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 4 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hi guys! Thank you for answers and advices. Where can I read a review about Marklin motors? I don't need old versions, only 2000 + enough. Yesterday I received my first locomotive 39460 and a set of track + Mobile Station-2. There are still locomotives, wagons and additional tracks to arrive ahead.
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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460.MP4 (6,334kb) downloaded 83 time(s).
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hi guys! I renamed this topic because I have significantly more questions. The further I dive into the Marklin theme, the more interesting it becomes to me. I have already bought several locomotives and some wagons. Something I have already received, something else on the way. I made my Instagram page. @marklinfun I hope I can fill it with interesting content. From time to time I come across questions and try to look for answers myself, but sometimes I need your many years of experience. So, tell me please: what is the difference between cars 40500,40501,40502,40503 then cars 42862,42272,43305? Märklin Start up are full-fledged locos and wagons or a stripped-down version? What is the best choice? Another question: what are transparent C-rails for?
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Max Originally Posted by: Maxxx  Another question: what are transparent C-rails for? There was a time when Märklin produced C tracks in kits of various colors (12 years ago? Not sure). This was for kids Then a bit later (5 to 10 years ago not sure) Märklin produced 24188, 24177, 24130, 24001 in transparent versions. What for? Not sure but some used it for presentation or illumination from underneath Sorry I could not find more precise info so all is from memory Jean |
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,470 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB  Hi Max Originally Posted by: Maxxx  Another question: what are transparent C-rails for? There was a time when Märklin produced C tracks in kits of various colors (12 years ago? Not sure). This was for kids Then a bit later (5 to 10 years ago not sure) Märklin produced 24188, 24177, 24130, 24001 in transparent versions. What for? Not sure but some used it for presentation or illumination from underneath Sorry I could not find more precise info so all is from memory Jean The transparent tracks were produced primarily for shop displays on glass shelves, as far as i can work out. But many shops also sold them. they were never officially advertised by Marklin as a catalogue item that I am aware of. Certainly a display with the transparent track sitting on a glass shelf, lit from below looks quite something.
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Joined: 15/11/2018(UTC) Posts: 432 Location: Uusimaa, Helsinki
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Originally Posted by: Maxxx  So, tell me please: what is the difference between cars 40500,40501,40502,40503 then cars 42862,42272,43305? I believe the 4050x series cars are just slightly updated versions of the 42862, 42272, 43305 series, which they replaced in the sortiment in 2016. The two series represent slightly different prototypes, for instance 40500 the Apmz 125.3 Intercity open seating car, 1st class, and the 42862 the Apmz 121.2 InterCity open seating car, 1st class. To spot the differences takes an inquisitive mind and probably a magnifying glass. Originally Posted by: Maxxx  Märklin Start up are full-fledged locos and wagons or a stripped-down version? I don't think there is a hard and fast rule regarding this question. In the above case, the 4050x series appears to me just as good as the earlier cars they replaced; in other cases (especially in earlier times) there are differences in detail and realism. |
- Martti M.
Era III analog & digital (Rocrail, CAN Digital Bahn, Gleisbox/MS2, K83/K84), C & M tracks, some Spur 1 |
 2 users liked this useful post by Martti Mäntylä
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hello people! I'm looking for a car part. This is a wagon doorstep and rubber spacer for car 42164 As I understand these parts are also used in other cars. Maybe someone has one and can do the favor and sell it to me.  
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Any diaphram from most Marklin ho cars era's 2, any from 3 through 6 will fit. Problem is there aren't many broken up models for parts. I should think you could order one from Marklin Germany.
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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I found it! These parts are available on eBay. No. 299800 No. 701370 No. 315660 They are slightly different . It remains only to find out which one I need...
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: Maxxx  They are slightly different . It remains only to find out which one I need... Yep. The sizes of the pegs may vary. Also the shape may vary between era III and era VI. Sorry, I don't know the correct number for your car. And the Märklin spare part site is not helpful either in this case. Maybe Märklin can give you the correct number if you e-mail them. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
 1 user liked this useful post by H0
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Marklin takes too long to answer questions. And isn't there a website with PDF manuals for cars somewhere in the network? Like for locomotives.
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Yes, spare parts list. You need the ones which fit 26.4 cm. or longer Eurofima type coaches, SBB Gotthard panorama express, etc. Try this item number; 42990, or 42991. I have these, and the diaphrams look the same as yours. I would suggest also a Roco part, but the difference is the car transition steps actually hinge to the diaphram on them, and move up and down. They may not stay in place in a Marklin. "Cancel that!" I just looked. They don't list that part. Only couplers, nulbs, and wheels.
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hi people! Help me please with advice. Some time ago I bought 18 pieces of Electric Turnout Mechanism 74491 on eBay. When I first connected them, half of them twitched instead of not working properly. I wrote to Marklin twice in the hope that they would respond and change the non-working mechanisms for me. But Marklin just ignored me. Tell me please what should I do besides picking up a soldering iron and removing all the limit switches from the Turnout Mechanism myself?
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 1 user liked this useful post by Maxxx
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Hi Maxxx! Don't unsolder anything yet! I don't think they are meant to be opened up. I may be mistaken though. You mentioned you bought from E-Bay, but whom was the seller? You need a reciept of new item saled from either Marklin directly, or an authorized dealer for the 2 year warranty to be covered. Perhaps you bought them second party, and why Marklin has ignored you? If you have a new items sale reciept, and invoice, then call Marklin, or send an e-mail.
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Maxxx (Max?) Welcome to our forum. Yes Märklin switch motors 74491 have frequent issues with end switches. Yes, something purchased on ebay has no Märklin warranty unless the seller gives you the purchase receipt to a Märklin dealership. In my opinion, you better get a soldering iron (see USB soldering irons from 6€), a long nose plier, open the motors and short-circuit the end switches. I have done this on all my 74491 because until recently Märklin never solved this issue. After you have done this, operation with a digital decoder (60832 or equivalent) is perfectly safe In manual operation, you must push the buttons only a short time (less than a second) and then all is OK. Cheers Jean |
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 2 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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I've had probelm with them as well, my solution was to echange the micro switches for new ones, you can get them in an electronic shop, the secret behind these switches is (I assume whoever soldered them used a soldering iron with to much heat and this what ruins the inside tension of these switches. so if you intend to fix them make sure your soldering iron is not to hot., and you will soon realize if it is or not whereas the switch operates normal. (it should return to its off position)
John |
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Hi John This problem on switch motors is an old one and I have personally experienced it since 1975 with Fleischmann and some Arnold in N gauge switch motors and with all Märklin HO ones in C track since 1996. I read that also Roco users complain about this. You didn't have the problem with M track (No switches).
I tried to repair or replace the micro switches, very delicate and wasted time and money. The switches are destroyed by the spark caused by the solenoid and the high current. Märklin obviously worked on this for years (at least 4 generation of switch motors: one switch, weak motors, 2 switches, stronger motors, new electronic components to limit sparks, etc.
But what works then? The electronic components used by Märklin (and others) to switch on and off the solenoids (MosFET) withstand the current and the solenoid inductive load. I have over 60 of the 74491 motors and failing happens rarely now. I have shorted the end-position switches on all my switch motors before they fail so that I don't have to crawl and work in impossible places (switches in intermediate or lower level of my layout). The result is great reliability, especially with recent decoders 60831 and 60832 because no matter the digital signal, they will switch OFF the solenoid after 200 to 500 mS. Earlier decoders (6083) were waiting for the switch-off digital order which, if missed would lead to the certain destruction of both the motor and the decoder.
Note: I have tried the early generation of Viessmann motors (4554) and they were noisy and all failed rapidly so I went back to Märklin. Just my 2 cents worth. Cheers Jean |
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 2 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hi Jean. Thanks for the comprehensive answer. As I understand it, in any case, I need to take up a soldering iron. Even those mechanisms that work now can cause a lot of problems in the future . Best regards. Max
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Bridging the contacts on the 74990/74991 micro switches will work but it does result in removing any cutoff protection. I think the better solution is to replace both micro switches with resettable fuses. I've done a few point motors this way and they work fine, hopefully it works out to be a long term solution as well. I used these fuses, obtained off Aliexpress - Resettable FusesAs John suggests be careful when desoldering the switches as it isn't very hard to break the pcb tracks.
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 3 users liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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I purchased brand new ones last year and all work perfectly with decoders.
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hello everyone! I want to share my successes with you. I have successfully repaired the non-working turn out mechanisms. And also did the same with the others, those that have been working fine so far. In total, 18 pieces. Thank you for your advice and information! 
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 4 users liked this useful post by Maxxx
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz  Bridging the contacts on the 74990/74991 micro switches will work but it does result in removing any cutoff protection. I think the better solution is to replace both micro switches with resettable fuses. I've done a few point motors this way and they work fine, hopefully it works out to be a long term solution as well. I used these fuses, obtained off Aliexpress - Resettable FusesAs John suggests be careful when desoldering the switches as it isn't very hard to break the pcb tracks. Hi I use them and they are working very fine and long term BUT there MUST be a thermal connection with the solenoid so that their internal resistance goes from 1 Ohm at 20°C up to infinite at 60°C (I write from memory but the values are good). Interestingly, Märklin is using them in decoupling C rails. Of course when the component is installed away from the solenoid, it protects NOTHING because it remains cold. It is a temperature actuated switch with a switch off temperature around 60°C My 2 cents' worth Jean |
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 3 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 26/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 12 Location: Kitchner, Onterio
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This issue was caused by a design fault. The original design did not have any capacitors to mitigate the back EMF when these little limit switch contacts opened on end of travel. The result is burnt contacts caused be the electrical arc created on opening. So after a few cycles there is enough of a burn to raise the contact resistance sufficiently to create an open circuit. I repaired all of mine by putting a 0.33 ufd surface mount capacitor across the outside terminal of the micro switch. Just cut out the unused center terminal of the micro switch and the capacitor fits in the space. I also added a 0.1 ufd capacitor across the coils. This required some very thin wire across the coil as there is no room. I also replaced the bad micro switches on mine. I still have all my original switch motors. Have never had a problem since
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 1 user liked this useful post by wseltner
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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In my case, these were modern turnout mechanisms and the capacitors were already there. 
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Sorry not to agree but those tiny components Märklin added are surge suppressors (supposed to short electrical signal past a given voltage). Turns out the life of the micro-switches is not noticeably increased by it. Buy 20 of these switch motors, use them for one year then how many are still working at the end? Certainly not all.
The component discussed before is a thermal protection wired in series with the solenoid to protect. This takes much more space, requires to be thermally connected w. the load to protect. Works absolutely fine. Cheers Jean |
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 3 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,763 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB  .. Yes Märklin switch motors 74491 have frequent issues with end switches. .., open the motors and short-circuit the end switches. I have done this on all my 74491 because until recently Märklin never solved this issue. After you have done this, operation with a digital decoder (60832 or equivalent) is perfectly safe In manual operation, you must push the buttons only a short time (less than a second) and then all is OK. ... Cheers Jean
Hello Jean, Thank you for your comprehensive explanation of this solution. So I do not have an electrically advanced knowledge, but I understood your video perfectly. I have never used electrical or digital switching (all manual, no electrics) for my C-track layout but would like a couple of turnouts working by either method. So my question is this. Have Märklin actually modified this system in the 74491 product to alleviate the problem? I recently purchased a 24802 switching track pack and was wondering if that might contain the modified product. If so how would I know? Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
 1 user liked this useful post by kimballthurlow
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Kimball "Have Märklin actually modified this system in the 74491 product to alleviate the problem?" To be fair, they tried many times (at least 4 generation of 74490 / 74491 / 74492) and they improved the product but it is still not perfect. Märklin is not the only one to have this problem. The make the problem worse, Märklin should develop a smaller motor if they want to finalize the sleek double slip switch in C track.
How to cure the problem? - in digital operation, shorting the micro switches solves the issues because decoder can withstand cutting off the power and because recent decoders have a local duration security (factory-set to 200mS). I had only ONE problem since I did this 20 years ago on approx 50 motors). - in manual operation, shorting would work but not against "heavy fingers" (pushing the button for more than 1 second)
Note: the thermal cut-off switch works perfectly but its size makes it difficult (impossible?) to integrate in the flat casing especially if you attach the component to each solenoid). I have personally used them to my entire satisfaction in large solenoids (but not 74491).
Note: In manual operation, there is a method I did not test: to insert in series of the switch motors, a large capacitor (at least 220micro F) with a resistor (1 K) in parallel to discharge the capacitor. But most large capacitor are POLIRISED (they cannot stand a reverse voltage) so it must implement while using DC to drive solenoids
I wish I could have a simple solution for you but alas I have none. Sorry Jean
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 2 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 26/02/2012(UTC) Posts: 12 Location: Kitchner, Onterio
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Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB  Hi Sorry not to agree but those tiny components Märklin added are surge suppressors (supposed to short electrical signal past a given voltage). Turns out the life of the micro-switches is not noticeably increased by it. Buy 20 of these switch motors, use them for one year then how many are still working at the end? Certainly not all.
The component discussed before is a thermal protection wired in series with the solenoid to protect. This takes much more space, requires to be thermally connected w. the load to protect. Works absolutely fine. Cheers Jean I can only relate to my experience. Those could well be surge suppressors on the newer switch motors. I can't comment on what Marklin did on the newer ones. My dealer had offered to replace them. I've worked in electronic design for the past 40 some years. I told him it was a design fault and I would rather correct the issue properly. When I rebuilt all of my older switch motors with the capacitors the problem did not reoccur. That was a few years ago. Trick is to use the largest capacitor you can fit in the location. I could well have used bipolar transient absorption diodes (Transorbs) 30 volt or so. However, transorbs being similar to Zener diodes they may eventually fail. Ideally you would do both.
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 1 user liked this useful post by wseltner
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hello everyone! And again I have a question for the respected community. This time about a set 43570. This is a wonderful set, with excellent detail and installed lighting inside. But I didn't understand one thing - how to control the light inside the cars. Now I have it permanently turned on. My CS3 doesn't want to define these wagons. Is there a decoder inside or is everything primitive? 
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 1 user liked this useful post by Maxxx
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Maxxx My understanding is that set of coaches comes with interior lighting, a driving car with reversible headlights (red/white) but no decoder. So, installing it on the track with digital current (from your CS3) will only light it up. Cheers Jean |
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 1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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I have these, but are first issue, not a set. They derail at will, depending on room temperature, speed, even on a level flat turnout or a C track radius 1,or 2 curve. It doesn't seem to matter wether I use the drawbar current couplers, or the current conducting close. The whee sets have also fallen off during operation. Sad because I installed led lighting kits, and they look nice with figures.
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Thank you for answers. Who has experience installing decoders to control lighting inside cars?
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 1 user liked this useful post by Maxxx
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Dumb post and off topic removed. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 24/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 19 Location: Moscow
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Hello everybody! Please recommend a simple and reliable single DCC decoder for car lighting. I use CS3+ Recommendations from users of this station are welcome.
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