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Offline perz  
#1 Posted : 01 October 2013 00:16:16(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,577
Location: Sweden
Hi,

For many years, I have been using Humbrol Precision Poly as the glue for my plastic models. I think it is an excellent glue. Easy to work with and models glued with it do not get warped or fall apart after 3-10 years as has been the case when I have used other glues. But now the problem is that this specific glue is very hard to get locally, and I have not found anyone who ships it to Sweden at reasonable cost. A few years ago you could get it almost everywhere, but now all the local shops have changed to Revell glue. Not because they think it is better, but because the Revell supplier has more reliable deliveries.

Now the question: Is there anyone who has used the Revell glue (Revell Contacta Pro Polystyrene glue) for more than 10 years and can testimony that it is nice to work with an does not cause warping or cause the models to fall apart after some years? I am very reluctant to changing the glue brand because of previous bad experience with other brands, but I have not tried the Revell glue so I can't say that it is as bad as the other ones I have tried.
Offline DigitalNZ  
#2 Posted : 01 October 2013 02:50:06(UTC)
DigitalNZ

New Zealand   
Joined: 13/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 228
Location: Masterton, New Zealand
Hi perz,

Revell glue (The contacta pro with the blue bottle and yellow tip) is very common down in New Zealand. I remember building a station about 10 years ago with my grandfather and that has held up really well.

I've also used the Faller glue in the orange bottle and that has been pretty good in my experience.

Daniell

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Offline kimballthurlow  
#3 Posted : 01 October 2013 21:53:59(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,070
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Originally Posted by: perz Go to Quoted Post
Hi,

For many years, I have been using Humbrol Precision Poly as the glue for my plastic models. I think it is an excellent glue. ....... I am very reluctant to changing the glue brand because of previous bad experience with other brands, but I have not tried the Revell glue so I can't say that it is as bad as the other ones I have tried.


Hi perz,

Is the Humbrol in a tube, or other dispenser?

I too have found Humbrol the only reliable solution. But mine is in tubes called "Poly Cement", and I am finding it harder to get.
I don't do too much gluing now, but I like to have it on hand.

regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail (USA and Australia) - 3 rail (English Hornby Dublo) - a few old O gauge.
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Offline perz  
#4 Posted : 01 October 2013 22:54:32(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,577
Location: Sweden
Originally Posted by: kimballthurlow Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: perz Go to Quoted Post
Hi,

For many years, I have been using Humbrol Precision Poly as the glue for my plastic models. I think it is an excellent glue. ....... I am very reluctant to changing the glue brand because of previous bad experience with other brands, but I have not tried the Revell glue so I can't say that it is as bad as the other ones I have tried.


Hi perz,

Is the Humbrol in a tube, or other dispenser?

I too have found Humbrol the only reliable solution. But mine is in tubes called "Poly Cement", and I am finding it harder to get.
I don't do too much gluing now, but I like to have it on hand.

regards
Kimball


I mean the one with a needle dispenser. I have used the "Poly Cement" too and it is also an excellent glue, but the "Precision Poly" is easier to apply. I think it is more or less the same stuff in both of them.

Offline kariosls37  
#5 Posted : 02 October 2013 12:26:20(UTC)
kariosls37

New Zealand   
Joined: 02/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,067
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
I've worked with both the Humbrol Poly cement form the tube and Revell Contacta in the bottle with the needle. Revell Contacta is a little thinner than Humbrol Poly cement. The thin-ness of the Revell stuff is nice to work with. Most of my wagons and cars have been built with it, and I have had no trouble with it. Even though the material I work with is pretty thin, the glue has not caused any noticable warp. It does tend to block up the needle after a while, but that's an easy fix with a bit of thin wire.

Cheers,
Rick
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Offline perz  
#6 Posted : 02 October 2013 21:38:14(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,577
Location: Sweden
Originally Posted by: kariosls37 Go to Quoted Post
I've worked with both the Humbrol Poly cement form the tube and Revell Contacta in the bottle with the needle. Revell Contacta is a little thinner than Humbrol Poly cement. The thin-ness of the Revell stuff is nice to work with. Most of my wagons and cars have been built with it, and I have had no trouble with it. Even though the material I work with is pretty thin, the glue has not caused any noticable warp. It does tend to block up the needle after a while, but that's an easy fix with a bit of thin wire.

Cheers,
Rick



The Humbrol Precision poly in bottle with needle is also a little bit thinner than the Poly cement in the tube. But it is not a big difference. Maybe Revell glue is even thinner? I don't think I would prefer that. The Humbrol glue also tends to block up the needle. I think it is unavoidable withe those types of glue.
Offline Sparrow  
#7 Posted : 03 October 2013 00:52:04(UTC)
Sparrow

Spain   
Joined: 05/09/2011(UTC)
Posts: 219
Revell Contacta works just fine, but i'd give a try to liquid cements, like Humbrol liquid poly or Tamiya extra thin. Both take advantage of capilarity and complement perfectly thicker poliestirene glues.
Best regards.
Luis.
Offline perz  
#8 Posted : 11 October 2013 16:59:23(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,577
Location: Sweden
Originally Posted by: Sparrow Go to Quoted Post
Revell Contacta works just fine, but i'd give a try to liquid cements, like Humbrol liquid poly or Tamiya extra thin. Both take advantage of capilarity and complement perfectly thicker poliestirene glues.


Might be a complementt, but hardly a replacement. I have used liquid cements too, good for some things but not for all. And the liquid glues you are mentioning are as hard to get as the Humbrol Precision Poly here.

Offline Webmaster  
#9 Posted : 11 October 2013 20:11:56(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,121
Well, I've used these with excellent results - all pretty equivalent...

You can order the Humbrol from Airfix.com, and also Revell from Revell.de. The Faller & Uhu is usually available from German mrr shops...
The Faller one is also available from eg mjhobby.se...

And - when the metal pipe gets clogged up, remove it with a a pair of pliers and then heat it up with a cigarette lighter to unclog it... Wink
Webmaster attached the following image(s):
HumbrolGlue.JPG
RevellGlue.JPG
UhuGlue.JPG
FallerGlue.JPG
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
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Offline Bigdaddynz  
#10 Posted : 11 October 2013 23:04:09(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 17,995
Location: New Zealand
I'm using Humbrol Precision Poly Cement and find it really good. I've also used the Revell glue and find it good, but I don't have anything that is 10 years old that I've built with it.

I've also used (and still have) some Testors glue and that was OK (quite quick drying though, and it can leave a slight cloudy looking residue).

UserPostedImage

Originally Posted by: Webmaster Go to Quoted Post
And - when the metal pipe gets clogged up, remove it with a a pair of pliers and then heat it up with a cigarette lighter to unclog it... Wink


I've used a piece of thin solid wire to do the same thing - that also works OK.
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Offline river6109  
#11 Posted : 12 October 2013 00:56:52(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13,722
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz Go to Quoted Post
I'm using Humbrol Precision Poly Cement and find it really good. I've also used the Revell glue and find it good, but I don't have anything that is 10 years old that I've built with it.

I've also used (and still have) some Testors glue and that was OK (quite quick drying though, and it can leave a slight cloudy looking residue).

UserPostedImage

Originally Posted by: Webmaster Go to Quoted Post
And - when the metal pipe gets clogged up, remove it with a a pair of pliers and then heat it up with a cigarette lighter to unclog it... Wink


I've used a piece of thin solid wire to do the same thing - that also works OK.


you may noticed the original post by our webmaster was to use a cigarette lighter and your glue tells us it is very flammable,

I don't think this is a very good option using a cigarette lighter.

I don't know how many youngsters we have in this forum and one would think adults are giving advice and this should be all right.

I would suggest always ask the experts in the field if this is applicable, e.g. any naked flame or our previous discussion about blue transformers (main voltage).

regards.,

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#12 Posted : 12 October 2013 04:01:55(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 17,995
Location: New Zealand
It was a different glue that Juhan was using the lighter on.........my experience is that the Testors plastic nozzle does not block, whereas the thin metal nozzle used on the Humbrol glue does.

And as I said, I use a small thin wire to unblock the nozzle. BTW, the nozzle can be pulled out of the Humbrol glue bottle - note that Juhan did say that he removes the nozzle from the bottle before he applies the lighter. Risk is minimised by doing that.
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#13 Posted : 12 October 2013 04:18:09(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 17,995
Location: New Zealand
And, the Humbrol glue has no warning message on it saying that it is flammable, so I would expect there to be minimal risk with using a lighter on the nozzle to unblock it, as long as you remove the nozzle first.
Offline RayF  
#14 Posted : 12 October 2013 11:11:47(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,770
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
I also unblock the nozzle with a lighter flame. Sometimes the blockage is too hard to free using just a thin wire.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline AmericanImmigrant  
#15 Posted : 29 August 2014 03:39:11(UTC)
AmericanImmigrant


Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC)
Posts: 45
Location: Indianapolis, IN USA
To prevent the clogging of the needle I squeeze the bottle so that I can hear the air whistling, after each squirt of glue. That keeps the glue from drying inside the needle point.
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Offline MACER  
#16 Posted : 29 August 2014 04:48:34(UTC)
MACER

Argentina   
Joined: 12/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 137
Location: DISTRITO FEDERAL, BUENOS AIRES


Hi alls.

I used school glues and others, type semi-rigid.
Is very practical and easy for clear.
If only put in site the building, don t not make much liquid.

Macer
Offline Baron von Zach  
#17 Posted : 04 March 2015 18:28:15(UTC)
Baron von Zach

United Kingdom   
Joined: 04/03/2015(UTC)
Posts: 25
Location: Stockport, England
I have used Revell Contacta in the past and have to say, I'm not content with it.
The best IMO is still UHU Plast, but it's getting increasingly hard to come by.

However, I have no problem obtaining Humbrol Poly, so if you need some, PM me your address and I'll send it to you.
Offline Shamu  
#18 Posted : 05 March 2015 01:29:21(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Can't comment on any of the glues mentioned above, although I have most of them stashed away with all my kits, however........

All my models from 50+ years ago that were made with "Humbrol Britfix" are still in one solid piece.

Just wish you could still buy that stuff. LOL loved the smell of it.
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Offline Baron von Zach  
#19 Posted : 05 March 2015 02:06:13(UTC)
Baron von Zach

United Kingdom   
Joined: 04/03/2015(UTC)
Posts: 25
Location: Stockport, England
Ladies and Gentlemen!

The Baron himself proudly presents...

...his Vintage Glue Museum!

Applause, applause, applause!


It's in a box of epic political incorrectness:
UserPostedImage

And the lid goes open:
UserPostedImage

MIB!
UserPostedImage

Some real exotics:
UserPostedImage

Glues from five decades and all over the world, peacefully united:
UserPostedImage


Yeah, I know. Some say I should get a life.
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Offline xxup  
#20 Posted : 05 March 2015 02:26:59(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,223
Location: Australia
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
.... LOL loved the smell of it.


And now you know why you can't buy it any more.. LOL
Adrian
UserPostedImage
Australia flag by abFlags.com
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Offline Br502362  
#21 Posted : 05 March 2015 09:45:00(UTC)
Br502362


Joined: 05/03/2014(UTC)
Posts: 644
Location: Finland
Hi all,

I have used Revell Contacta glue since it was introduced.
All models are still ok and no seams have opened.

The only problem with it are long seams like 1:48 Boeing B17G aeroplanes fuselage.
It dries fast but you just have to apply a second layer of glue.

I have been satisfied with it ThumpUp

Cheers

Åke
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Offline kimballthurlow  
#22 Posted : 08 March 2015 23:34:03(UTC)
kimballthurlow

Australia   
Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC)
Posts: 6,070
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Maybe it is the weather here, but whenever I used the Faller polystyrene cement, it left cloudy residue which spoils the model.

Contacta and Humbrol glues never did that.

I also use a UHU All Purpose Adhesive (yellow packet) glue for general cementing, which is a clear contact cement.
It tends to string, but is really useful because it has a binding quality.
I find it excellent for any material.
Available in small tubes like Humbrol, but not easy to get.
As they were only $3 each, I cleaned out our local newsagent of all 10 tubes.

By the way, I found Juhans' advice about using a flame (I used a match) to clear the tube, worked well.
I like the advice about hissing sound too (to clear the tube).
Anyway, I managed to get a small flame like a blowtorch for as long as I kept squeezing the tube.


regards
Kimball
HO Scale - Märklin (ep III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail (USA and Australia) - 3 rail (English Hornby Dublo) - a few old O gauge.
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Offline river6109  
#23 Posted : 09 March 2015 09:52:25(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13,722
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
I misread the topic and I thought it was a clue question (e.g. puzzle) maybe I have been sniffing glue for to long BigGrin

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline Drongo  
#24 Posted : 31 May 2015 11:50:11(UTC)
Drongo

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,117
Location: Sydney, NSW
Originally Posted by: kimballthurlow Go to Quoted Post
Maybe it is the weather here, but whenever I used the Faller polystyrene cement, it left cloudy residue which spoils the model.

Contacta and Humbrol glues never did that.

I also use a UHU All Purpose Adhesive (yellow packet) glue for general cementing, which is a clear contact cement.
It tends to string, but is really useful because it has a binding quality.
I find it excellent for any material.
Available in small tubes like Humbrol, but not easy to get.
As they were only $3 each, I cleaned out our local newsagent of all 10 tubes.

By the way, I found Juhans' advice about using a flame (I used a match) to clear the tube, worked well.
I like the advice about hissing sound too (to clear the tube).
Anyway, I managed to get a small flame like a blowtorch for as long as I kept squeezing the tube.


regards
Kimball


Kimball, you are correct that the glue is affected by the weather when it goes cloudy. It's the moisture (humidity) in the air which causes this to happen. There is a chemical which added to the glue prevents the cloudiness in high humidity. However, it is becoming more difficult obtain. And to answer the question as to why some glues are becoming difficult to obtain, it is that the chemicals are either poisonous, detrimental to health when inhaled, can cause dermatitis if splashed on your skin or can cause cancer. Crying Crying Crying
Take it easy . . . . or any other way you can get it !!!!
Website - www.simplesite.com/gregstrain
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Offline perz  
#25 Posted : 02 June 2015 00:15:27(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,577
Location: Sweden
The Humbrol glue has been available again for some now in one shop in the town where I live. Their explanation to why this glue (and similar things) is hard to get sometimes is that there are transport restrictions due to the flammability. So you can't send it by air freight or normal post, at least from what they said. Of course it is poisonous too, but I do not think that is the main reason.
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Offline Cabegye  
#26 Posted : 02 June 2015 00:44:26(UTC)
Cabegye

United States   
Joined: 09/08/2012(UTC)
Posts: 13
Location: Plantation, Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Gentlemen,
I always used Faller super expert glue for my plastic kits either they are buildings, planes, tanks or boats, always with a very good result, and yes it glues plastic not paint, the paint will also melt and you will ended up with a mess. To unclog the needle nozzle I just use a heat gun very reliable and no flame problems,

Cheats!
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Offline perz  
#27 Posted : 07 February 2021 13:30:58(UTC)
perz

Sweden   
Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC)
Posts: 2,577
Location: Sweden
Hi!

Humbrol glue is unavailable again now. Since I can't get it, I have tried Revell glue. It is a bit thinner. The good thing with that is that the needle does not clog that easily. The drying time is longer. This can be an advantage in some cases, since it allows more time for adjustment. But most often, it only results in that it takes longer time to build the model. I would prefer Humbrol, but Revell is not too bad either.

I am a bitt worried though. Models I have built with Humbrol glue still hold together after almost 20 years. When I came back to the hobby in the late 1990's I fist used another glue. It seemed to work well at first. But after awhile it whitened, and after ~3 years the models started to fall apart. Does anyone have experience of the long term durability of the Revell glue? I would like to know before I go on and build too many models with it.

Regards
Per
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Offline Toosmall  
#28 Posted : 10 August 2021 01:00:02(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 28
Location: New South Wales, Newcastle
Dichloroethane lab grade is what I use on high impact styrene sheet. Mostly use 0.75mm and 1.0mm, a bit of 0.5mm and 1.5mm. the glazing is 0.5mm or 1.0mm polycarbonate sheet back sprayed to frost it when needed. Window frames you score a line in the polycarbonate & rub in kids acrylic paint. 10A scalpel blades are a good size and in boxes of 100 is the most economical way to buy them.

IMG_20210810_075701077~2.jpg

Menda dispenser http://hawley.net.au/sto...6&cat=319&page=1 or similar supplier.

Screenshot_20210810-080920~2.png

I use Windsor Newton series 7 brushes. Size 0 or 1 to start with, 00 or 000 for super file detail. These brushes cost a fortune, but in the long run they work out cheaper because they last. Anything less is useless.

IMG_20210323_171822038.jpg

A typical 1:200 architectural model.

8365146936946736787~6.jpg

A 1:100 architectural model all started as flat styrene sheet.

610821.jpg

1:500 architectural model with etched stainless steel detailing.

_MG_2015~4.jpg

Custom etched stainless steel, it is better to work with than brass & paint sticks better. The small things in the bottom right corner fold up into deck chairs (1:200)

32828.jpg

For European tress I use Nandina Domestica once the red berries fall off, spray with 3M Super 77 and roll in open foam flocking.

I make up small sanding boards spray glueing wet and dry, usually about 180 to 240 grit, onto both sides of cardboard or styrene sheet.

Edited by user 10 August 2021 09:00:47(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline marklinist5999  
#29 Posted : 10 August 2021 13:50:27(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 939
Location: Michigan, Troy
I bought Ambroid once. It was like water, but bonded instantly. Also highly odorous and toxic. Had the California prop. 65 warning for carcinegien. I've not seen it available in nealry two decades.
Offline Toosmall  
#30 Posted : 10 August 2021 23:24:53(UTC)
Toosmall

Australia   
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC)
Posts: 28
Location: New South Wales, Newcastle
Dichloroethane solvent is very liquid, so you hold the two styrene pieces together and the capillary action pulls the solvent into the joint. It is one one the reasons for the Windsor Newton series 7 brushes. They maintain their point for a long time.

Use dichloroethane solvent in a ventilated area. A fan blowing or vacuuming the fumes away wouldn't hurt. Look up 'dichloroethane solvent data safety sheet'.

If you have trouble getting it, try at a plastic supply place who makes acrylic covers for displays, if they can't sell you some they may be able to point you to a supplier.


Another use with dichloroethane is if you use a lot of super glue and the hardener. You often get a frost around the glued area a day or so later. Put dichloroethane on a brush and dry the brush, remove excess liquid, on the Menda dispenser, and wipe the brush over the frost. It removes it. If careful and quick, the painted surface will not be affected.
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