Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: Shoreline, WA
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All, as a conservative collector, I have been slowly getting into digital but consider myself a newb. I have a CS2 and 15 or so digital loks that I can run. Thanks Bigdaddynz for posting the 37080 manual as I bought a 37082 a few years back at a swap meet for a great price and it does not run. The box says 10 years insider model. The address is set to 14 and I am able to make the 6 or so functions work, whistle, lights (changing directions), underframe lights, steam sound etc but the lok does not move. I am using the programming track and it is clean as a whistle (my other loks respond well). If I give it a gentle push, it wont move. The driving wheels rotate with slight finger pressure. Does the lok need traditional cleaning or would it be something further? I do not want to get in over my head as I am used to analog vintage loks. Any insight appreciated. |
Thom European Train Enthusiast - Pacific Northwest Chapter 4th Division, Pacific Northwest Region, National Model Railroaders Association |
 2 users liked this useful post by seatrains
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Joined: 31/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 414 Location: Kennesaw, GA
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I have a 37082 as well. I would imagine it was bought from someone that either didn't run it at all, or barely ran it.
If it was me, I'd start by removing the shell, placing the loco on the track, and powering it up. Turn the throttle up just a little bit, then take a pencil and press against one of the brushes to make sure it is contacting the commutator. If it starts moving, you've found your culprit. If not, try the other one. If nothing happens, take a Voltmeter (Set to measure DC) and probe both motor contacts to see if it is getting voltage. If it is getting voltage, I would take the motor apart and clean everything, especially the commutator, and lubricate everything. While you have the rotor out, check to see how well the wheels turn. You should be able to push the loco along the track with your finger, and the wheels should turn easily. If not, there may be dried up oil that needs addressing. There are plenty of threads here discussing this. If none of this still works, try one more trick: Take the top off the tender as described in the manual. If yours has the older decoder (mine does), there will be two trimmer potentiometers that control Max speed and accell/braking. These are not sealed potentiometers, so it is possible that the internal contacts could have some oxidation. Take a small screwdriver, make note of their current position, and turn them back and forth a few times, then return to where they were initially. Try running the loco then.
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 4 users liked this useful post by DTaylor91
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Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: Shoreline, WA
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Thanks DTaylor91 for the insight. Yes, it was bought at a swap meet a couple of years ago (pre covid) for a great price (low) and I imagine it had not been run for a while. At the time I was buying a "pig in a poke". |
Thom European Train Enthusiast - Pacific Northwest Chapter 4th Division, Pacific Northwest Region, National Model Railroaders Association |
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Joined: 05/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: NEW HAMPSHIRE, Somersworth
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I have found a few things from messing around with locos that seem to have problems. I am not sure if this applies to the CS2 but I have had to reset the loco to factory settings to get it to respond correctly and also taking the CS3 out of edit loco mode also helps. My service guy suggested taking a 7V battery and connecting it to the loco off the track should indicate if the motor is good I have never done that though. I will try it with one loco soon as it has the same issue. I need to find a 7V battery plug. I have a loco which has a problem with the cab roof rubbing against the flywheel and not running because of that. You might follow the suggestion of removing the shell and seeing if it runs that way.
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 1 user liked this useful post by rhfil
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: DTaylor91  If it was me, I'd start by removing the shell, placing the loco on the track, and powering it up ..
Wow Don - that is the clearest, most concise description of how to diagnose this type of loco that I have ever seen. Good job! I bet that helps Thom find a solution. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
 1 user liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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The fact that the sound functions work indicate that the decoder is getting power from the track OK.
Before you do Don's excellent suggested advice, perform a visual check to make sure the blue and green motor wires from the decoder haven't broken off the motor or become pinched in some way.
Then carry on with Don's problem solving advice.
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 2 users liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
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Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 676 Location: Shoreline, WA
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Thanks for all the great trouble shooting suggestions. The solution was one of the easiest. Always check the green wire. It had become un-soldered...   |
Thom European Train Enthusiast - Pacific Northwest Chapter 4th Division, Pacific Northwest Region, National Model Railroaders Association |
 2 users liked this useful post by seatrains
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Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,225 Location: Montreal, QC
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That's a pretty cool convertible you have there. Where does the driver sit?
Regards
Mike C
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 3 users liked this useful post by mike c
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,468 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,887 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Several of mine were stored boxed, or in my display cabinet. Upon trying to run, were either sluggish or didn't move. I cleaned the old dry oil from the commutator, and gears. All running fine again. I have had a 37080 since new.
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 3 users liked this useful post by marklinist5999
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