Joined: 14/04/2015(UTC) Posts: 58
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Hi everybody!
In the instructions brochure of the Decoder m83, it's stated that the ends of the wires must be stripped and twisted but not tinned for electrical connections to the decoder and from turnouts to the decoder.
Does anyone know why the wires must not be tinned? What are the risks if tinned wires are connected to the decoder?
Thank you in advance! Have all a nice day!
Francisco
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Francesco I see 2 reasons: - leaving the copper wires as is allows to have a larger contact surface with the screw terminal and offers an elastic resistance for a better contact even through temperature variations - having no tin prevents in case of high current (short circuit) any tin melting thus damaging the screw terminal. Copper melting point is much higher. Cheers Jean |
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Joined: 04/05/2015(UTC) Posts: 777 Location: England, London
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A few moments ago I fitted a Viessmann signal onto my layout and screwed it in to an M83. I thought how nice and neat the factory tinned wires were and just the right length for the screw holes on the M83. I then read this post and response!. Unless the whole world shouts at me I think I am leaving things in place!
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,563 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Rwill This is a recommendation. All will be fine in most cases. Cheers Jean |
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 1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,475 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: fosuna  Hi everybody!
In the instructions brochure of the Decoder m83, it's stated that the ends of the wires must be stripped and twisted but not tinned for electrical connections to the decoder and from turnouts to the decoder.
Does anyone know why the wires must not be tinned? What are the risks if tinned wires are connected to the decoder?
Thank you in advance! Have all a nice day!
Francisco
The problem with tinning wires that go under screw clamps is that even when the screw is done up tight the solder will slowly collapse with time and the joint comes loose. The answer is to leave the wires untinned and let the screw clamp down on the copper. A technique I prefer is to use pins from old D connectors (the sort used for PC serial connections and so on) as a pin on the end of the wire and then screw down on that. This means that you don't end up with stray strands loose. Here is a photo of an example ...  If you pick your old connector right they are often easy to disassemble and reclaim the pins. If the two holes on the ends are riveted over the drill out the folded over metal and the connector shell will fall apart and the pins are easily reclaimed. Other styles of shell may be harder to disassemble, but with some perseverance can be done. If all else fails then suitable pins can be purchased from RS or Farnell/Onecall/Element14 (or whatever their current name is, they are now part of the Arrow group). Another option if you have an appropriate crimp tool are what are sometimes known as 'boot ferrules' or sometimes just as 'ferrules' which are crimped onto the end of the wire to achieve the same end result. generally these do not go down small enough for the sort of wire we deal with though.
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 4 users liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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Joined: 14/04/2015(UTC) Posts: 58
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Hi! Thank you very much all for your comments. I have just discovered that in a brochure of the Märklin plugs and sockets there is a figure that shows how to insert the wires into them without tinning.  So it looks that now Märklin does not recommend tinning for wire connections. Very interesting your comments. Thanks. Francisco |
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 1 user liked this useful post by fosuna
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