Joined: 06/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 77 Location: Staffordshire.
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I just dug out my two Marklin sets from the 70's, (2954 and 2930) and found that the cables to the power supplies in both sets seem to have melted in places which touched the polystyrene base. Also in the set 'E' extension the wires from the power track have been affected. They've been stored for some time because I have other layouts which I use, so they've not seen much action. I would prefer to keep them in the boxes they came in but if the cables are going to rot then they'll have to stay in the tote boxes I just got for them. Does anyone know if this is common or have I been storing them wrong, and is there a way around it, as I don't want to bin the boxes if I don't have to? On the subject of old Marklin, is it worth converting the 2 engines, number '3000' to digital or would It be cheaper to buy new stock, also I have some Primex, is that worth converting too, or do I buy new? I do like new Marklin  . John.
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,870 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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I have many older locos, including a 3000 from 1959, which I have converted to digital. If they run well in analogue they will certainly run well when converted to digital.
Whether you think they are worth converting or replacing with new is totally up to you. If you are as sentimental about your old trains as I am you will probably want to spend the money on them!
Primex locos are no different from Marklin, except that they were sometimes simplified versions (but not always!). I have lots of Primex in my collection, including locos you couldn't get in Marklin versions initially, like the E32 electrics. |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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 1 user liked this useful post by RayF
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Joined: 06/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 77 Location: Staffordshire.
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Thank you for your reply Ray. You're right about the sentimental attachment I'd never get rid of them. From that point of view they are worth converting, I'm more concerned with the expense of converting against the purchase of new replacements. From what I've seen of the new equipment it's incredible what you can do with it, but you need a very understanding bank manager or a good stash of cash if you want to start afresh. I have other Marklin layouts which will also need some work to modernise, they're small, but I like them. I think that I may just cancel my son's inheritance and get some new gear. Thanks again for the reply. John.
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 1 user liked this useful post by eberhardt
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,763 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Storage has to be treated with some care. Most packaging is not compatible with long-term storage, because it is made with the help of all sorts of chemical processes. If you wish to retain original packaging, I suggest wrapping each item in acid-free tissue paper which is available from packaging, storage, stationery, and newsagents shops. The tissue acts as a barrier to any damaging material contained in carboard, plastics, plastic foam, polystyrene, bubble wrap etc.
Yes even bubble wrap can spoil a perfectly good model finish over time.
Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
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Joined: 06/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 77 Location: Staffordshire.
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Thank you Kimball, I'll do that. Bubble wrap was my first choice, but now I think the acid free tissue paper route sounds better. The main problem is the cable on the Trafo's, (Which have both melted their way through the polystyrene) and the wires from the power track which were stuck to the poly'. Thanks again. John.
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 1 user liked this useful post by eberhardt
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Joined: 09/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 431 Location: Stockton, CA
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Together with acid free tissue paper, is there a plastic wrap/bag material anyone can suggest? I have a number of items still packed in Styrofoam showing no signs of damage as yet, but hope to head off the possibility as much as possible.
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: Eurobahnfan  Together with acid free tissue paper, is there a plastic wrap/bag material anyone can suggest? I have a number of items still packed in Styrofoam showing no signs of damage as yet, but hope to head off the possibility as much as possible. I am in the same situation. I have some very nice trains still in styrofoam and still with no damage. I seem to remember that storing styrofoam in extreme hot or cold would cause it to break down and mine have been in climate controlled spaces since new. But I do think that this is something to address to protect our investments and our cool toys. Wouldn't just wrapping them in acid free paper and then storing them in the original packaging again be fine? That at least would be the easiest approach and a might be a good place to start. So far neither you nor I have had no problems and I suspect that is true for many others as well. My 1999 California Zephyr has spent most of its 20 years in styrofoam and there have been no problems - it looks like the day I got it. I agree that we want to stop problems before they occur and this seems like a good candidate for doing that with acid free paper looking like a good idea. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
 2 users liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,470 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: dickinsonj  Originally Posted by: Eurobahnfan  Together with acid free tissue paper, is there a plastic wrap/bag material anyone can suggest? I have a number of items still packed in Styrofoam showing no signs of damage as yet, but hope to head off the possibility as much as possible. I am in the same situation. I have some very nice trains still in styrofoam and still with no damage. I seem to remember that storing styrofoam in extreme hot or cold would cause it to break down and mine have been in climate controlled spaces since new. I would suggest using a thin plastic sheet such as Marklin now supply as a 'lifting aid' on items packed in styrene foam. This is less likely to let any contamination through to the model from the styrene than tissue may do.
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 3 users liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan  I would suggest using a thin plastic sheet such as Marklin now supply as a 'lifting aid' on items packed in styrene foam. This is less likely to let any contamination through to the model from the styrene than tissue may do.
That makes sense Alan - because what this really needs is a barrier, like a film and pretty much just like the plastic lifting sleeves in most of my newer models. I just need to determine a spec for that type of plastic, buy some in bulk and make my own. That way I can keep my models safe and still retain the original packaging, which is like new in most cases. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,470 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: dickinsonj  Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan  I would suggest using a thin plastic sheet such as Marklin now supply as a 'lifting aid' on items packed in styrene foam. This is less likely to let any contamination through to the model from the styrene than tissue may do.
That makes sense Alan - because what this really needs is a barrier, like a film and pretty much just like the plastic lifting sleeves in most of my newer models. I just need to determine a spec for that type of plastic, buy some in bulk and make my own. That way I can keep my models safe and still retain the original packaging, which is like new in most cases. I would be tempted to try lining the foam packaging with cling film. Pushing it down so there are no air bubbles under it may be enough, and it will be flexible enough to cover the whole cavity in the foam. If fitted to the foam then I don't think it will stick to the model when that is put in the cavity.
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 1 user liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,763 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Originally Posted by: dickinsonj  Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan  I would suggest using a thin plastic sheet such as Marklin now supply as a 'lifting aid' on items packed in styrene foam. This is less likely to let any contamination through to the model from the styrene than tissue may do.
That makes sense Alan - because what this really needs is a barrier, like a film and pretty much just like the plastic lifting sleeves in most of my newer models. I just need to determine a spec for that type of plastic, buy some in bulk and make my own. That way I can keep my models safe and still retain the original packaging, which is like new in most cases. Hi Jim and Alan, There is a likelihood that it is near impossible to find what type material Märklin use as the plastic lifting liner (which seems to work very well). So in using any other type of plastic (thin film, food wrap, or bubble wrap) I would be inclined to use the acid-free tissue paper as the first layer. This is purely a precautionary exercise. I do this for unboxed items, first the tissue then bubble wrap as a temporary padded storage. regards Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
 3 users liked this useful post by kimballthurlow
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