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Offline HO_Steve_OH  
#1 Posted : 24 August 2019 21:49:21(UTC)
HO_Steve_OH

United States   
Joined: 24/11/2018(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Maryland, Owings
Hello All..
I am in the process of designing my old Marklin train layout after 60 years. I am using all my old 'M' track from the 1950's and later.
What I am looking for is a schematic or a picture of the wiring layout for the 3600 EKS uncoupler. I was given a box of parts for what I think was a working unit at one time, but was left in the Key-Down position and burned up the magnetic coil and wiring. So, Im going to tackle re-wiring the unit for a cold winter project.

Here is what I have so far:

There is an existing Yellow and Blue wire coming into the base of the unit from the transformer and momentary push button switch for power. The 100 turn of #22 copper wire for the magnetic coil (I think ?) is connected to the negative (Yellow) and the positive (Blue) wires. I think that takes care of the electro-magnetic portion of the center rail uncoupler. Now for the additional light pole.
There is an additional Yellow and Brown wire for the light pole that I think has to come off the Yellow and Blue wires independently.

This is my best guess just from looking at what is left over from a melted mess of wire.
If anyone has any additional info, I would appreciate any help..

Thanks
Steve
Offline JohnjeanB  
#2 Posted : 24 August 2019 22:21:43(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 523
Location: Paris, France
Hi Steve
In Marklin color code yellow is for power of “new” solenoids (after 1952) and blue is for momentary action (switches uncoupler, lights) they are connected to “common” (or 0)via push buttons
Green is for higher voltage (20 V) for older solenoids
Of course red (B or “Bahn”) is to drive trains
Cheers
Jean
My lay-out videos
General operation
Loco change
Offline HO_Steve_OH  
#3 Posted : 24 August 2019 22:35:56(UTC)
HO_Steve_OH

United States   
Joined: 24/11/2018(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Maryland, Owings
Thanks Jean for the info.
Im just havin fun playing trains after all these years.

I am designing my layout in Autocad which Ive computed all my tracks with. Makes it very easy to move around.

Thanks again for the info. Hopefully I can find wiring info on the uncoupler.

Steve
Offline TEEWolf  
#4 Posted : 25 August 2019 02:40:20(UTC)
TEEWolf

Germany   
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1,877
Originally Posted by: HO_Steve_OH Go to Quoted Post
Hello All..
I am in the process of designing my old Marklin train layout after 60 years. I am using all my old 'M' track from the 1950's and later.
What I am looking for is a schematic or a picture of the wiring layout for the 3600 EKS uncoupler. I was given a box of parts for what I think was a working unit at one time, but was left in the Key-Down position and burned up the magnetic coil and wiring. So, Im going to tackle re-wiring the unit for a cold winter project.

Here is what I have so far:

There is an existing Yellow and Blue wire coming into the base of the unit from the transformer and momentary push button switch for power. The 100 turn of #22 copper wire for the magnetic coil (I think ?) is connected to the negative (Yellow) and the positive (Blue) wires. I think that takes care of the electro-magnetic portion of the center rail uncoupler. Now for the additional light pole.
There is an additional Yellow and Brown wire for the light pole that I think has to come off the Yellow and Blue wires independently.

This is my best guess just from looking at what is left over from a melted mess of wire.
If anyone has any additional info, I would appreciate any help..

Thanks
Steve



Here you find an old service handbook from Maerklin in English

maerklin-0733-service-manual-en.pdf (14,566kb) downloaded 31 time(s).

and a link to further brochures in German and English. Make your selection.

https://dermodellbahnblo...andbuch-anleitungen.html

I guess inside, you will find you are looking for.
CS 3 is a controller system from Märklin - not a central station.
Offline HO_Steve_OH  
#5 Posted : 25 August 2019 03:11:36(UTC)
HO_Steve_OH

United States   
Joined: 24/11/2018(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Maryland, Owings
TEEWOLF,
Thanks for the info.
This may have what I am looking for to help me rebuild the uncouple unit... Ill make a copy and read it over..

Thanks Much !!

Steve
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by HO_Steve_OH
Offline JohnjeanB  
#6 Posted : 25 August 2019 11:43:16(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 523
Location: Paris, France
Hi Steve

I believe to fix your decoupler you have to:
- unwind the burned coil while counting the turns (loops of wire)
- measure the thickness of the enameled wire and order (on the Internet for 5$ or so
- to wind the new wire with the approximate same number of loops
All it takes is patience and a good wire feeder (where and how you install your new cable when it is not delivered in a spool).

I have doubts you can find the size of wire and number of turns. (Usually around 0.5mm diametre)

Note: in the newer decouplers Märklin installs in series a heath detector that switches off the current before burning. You may find this component on the internet or in a good electronic components store.
They look like small ceramic capacitors. Sorry I don't have the brand and model as I purchased this long time ago
Cheers

Jean
My lay-out videos
General operation
Loco change
Offline kiwiAlan  
#7 Posted : 25 August 2019 14:08:29(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 4,460
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: HO_Steve_OH Go to Quoted Post

This is my best guess just from looking at what is left over from a melted mess of wire.
If anyone has any additional info, I would appreciate any help..

Thanks
Steve


I think you will probably have to seek out a replacement solenoid. Normally the bobbin is made of plastic and when heated in this way deforms and jams the moving piece inside it. So before getting all organised to rewind it I would make sure the metal armature is still free to move inside the coil.

It may be that an item of that vintage doesn't use a plastic bobbin and you can rewind it. I wouldn't get too worried about the exact number of turns, just cut the wire off using a scalpel to carefully cut through the winding and expand it until it comes off the bobbin. Measure the diameter of a lead in wire where it comes out to one of the solder tags and get a reel of similar diameter wire, then wind that on the bobbin until it is filled about the same amount as what you took off. If you end up with an extra 5% turns that will not be a problem, if the operation seems a bit week you can always remove some.

If the bobbin is distorted such that you cannot get the armature to move freely inside it then there are various companies that may be able to supply spare spare parts, or search on ebay or any other auction site for it. You may luck out and find exactly the item, or even pick up a complete uncoupler (and that may help get this one working as well).

Offline HO_Steve_OH  
#8 Posted : 25 August 2019 17:48:58(UTC)
HO_Steve_OH

United States   
Joined: 24/11/2018(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Maryland, Owings
Jean & Alan,
Thanks for your reply. Luck have it, here's what I did...

Being a HAM operator, I have lots of wire in my junk box. So I went hunting for some copper wire.
I found a 1000' spool of #24 copper wire with enamel coating that I had used for a motor winding some time ago. I cleaned the metal bobbin as best I could, its about 3/8 in by 3/8 in round. Holding at least 1 inch to start with, I wound about 25 turns of wire on the bobbin until it was full. I put the bobbin back in the cradle of the rail plunger and cleaned off 1/2 in of enamel on each end of the wire. The bobbin acts as an electro-magnet and when I hooked a 1.5 volt battery up to the open wires, it opens and closes the rail plunger like it should.

I tried to attach a picture but it didnt come over..

I think its a lot cheaper to buy a new one on eBay than to fix an old one...

But that's what Model Railroading is all about...

Thanks Guys for your help...
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