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Offline Poor Skeleton  
#1 Posted : 16 July 2019 22:08:23(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 550
Location: England, Cambridge
Hi, I'm hoping someone here can offer some advice as to the best way to set up the quartering of a steam locomotive.

To put this into context, I know the aim is to get all of the wheels with the coupling rods at the same position, and I know all of the correct swearwords to use when one of the gears pops out or the pick-up brushes disengage from the wheels.

My dilemma is how to set everything up with the amount of slop in the gearing. There's about 10-15 degrees of play between each adjacent set of wheels so in an 8 coupled locomotive that equates to 45 degrees between the first wheel and last. The compromises seem to be to set everything up so its perfect in one direction and way out in the other or equally and oppositely out in each direction. The latter seems like the best compromise and least likely to cause trouble, but I'd appreciate advice from someone more experienced than I.

Thanks in advance for your help.


Chris
Offline dominator  
#2 Posted : 16 July 2019 23:18:52(UTC)
dominator

New Zealand   
Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1,195
Location: Kerikeri
That sounds seriously worn. Best thing is set it up so when you hold the wheel at one end, the wheel at the other end can rotate out of line equally in both directions. The ones in the middle should follow suit. The latest models have got around this by removing the gears from all but one axle.
Dereck
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä
Offline Zme  
#3 Posted : 17 July 2019 07:01:11(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 760
Location: West Texas
Hello. This is one subject which seems to be kept in the dark.

My advice is to start with the forward wheels first. I am not sure which model you are working with but I will assume you have at least three drive wheels.

Save the last axle for your final one. The ultimate goal is to have the drive rods not binding and the half moons on the wheels set to the same orientation. ) ) ) kinda like this. It is helpful to have a photo of your engine so you can see how it was in the first place. The assembly/parts diagrams are not very clear. On older boxes they had a helpful photo you could refer to.

Insert the first two drive wheels setting the rods and center gears as they will be loose and adjustable as you work with it. Make certain your drive rods and contacts are correctly set. Check your engines assembly diagram to make certain your drive rods are correctly placed. There is an up position for the connector rod. I once did an 8891 and ended up having the rods upside down. On the rod there is a pointer and it needs to be facing up or down, just pay attention which way you assemble it but this is just for looks. It will work up side down, but you will know it is wrong.

You may not be able to accomplished this entire process the first time you try, but just stay with it until these wheels are set. Hold this first phase of work in position with your thumb and you will be able to loosen the thumb pressure because the contacts will actually hold things together a bit. I usually some of the Labells 106 gear lube as it tends to help keep things stable almost as if glued, kinda sticky. Finally work with the last axle adjusting the contacts and rod to ensure they will move freely. This axle will be in contact with the motor gear so is more difficult to work with. When set, pickup the last axle and slip in the center gear. Kinda like tucking it in underneath. Sometimes it seems to be off by one tooth, but you are right there is a certain amount of play designed into the whole thing.

Sorry to say, as much as it would be helpful, there is no YouTube on this subject. (At least I am not aware of one). It would likely be impossible to record with everything so small and close.

I may not have described the process clearly enough, but trust me, in time you will get it. Add the cover plate, and give it a test. It should move freely and smoothly, repeat the technique until you have the perfection you desire. This is one process which will burn your time until you are satisfied and don’t drop anything because you will spend time looking for it.

Best wishes
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by Zme
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#4 Posted : 17 July 2019 12:33:04(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 550
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: d_landen@yahoo.com Go to Quoted Post
This is one subject which seems to be kept in the dark.

My advice is to start with the forward wheels first. I am not sure which model you are working with but I will assume you have at least three drive wheels.



Thanks very much for the detailed reply - very helpful. It's an 88962 I'm working on - it was running a bit rough when I got it and whilst checking for detritus in the gears (I've found loose bits of moulding before in new models) I foolishly removed one of the gears. I do have it back together and it is running reasonably well (much better forward than in reverse) but the wheels aren't perfectly aligned and I feel I should have another go.

In any case, the answer to my question seems to be that I should align adjacent wheels perfectly +/- the play in the gears, which, I guess is pretty obvious now I've said it!

Thanks again


Chris
Offline Zme  
#5 Posted : 17 July 2019 15:33:11(UTC)
Zme

United States   
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC)
Posts: 760
Location: West Texas
Hello Chris

I have worked on the 88961, a similar engine. It is a great loco and well worth your efforts.

I have tried to describe the procedure which works for me. Others may do things differently. This engine has an extra set of drive wheels which will challenge your patience and dexterity.

Good luck. P.S. doesn’t hurt to clean things, now you have it apart.
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#6 Posted : 17 July 2019 22:07:10(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 550
Location: England, Cambridge
Originally Posted by: d_landen@yahoo.com Go to Quoted Post
Hello Chris

I have worked on the 88961, a similar engine. It is a great loco and well worth your efforts.

I have tried to describe the procedure which works for me.


Thanks again for your help, I have everything set right now and it's running well. (One slight reservation that the wheels on one wheelset don't seem to be correctly quartered with respect to each other, but I'm not going to try and correct that and it doesn't appear to be affecting the running.)

It is a very handsome locomotive, though its traction on gradients (of which I have many) is disappointing. I was warned about this beforehand so it's not a surprise and the three coaches it can manage are about the maximum my passing loops can cope with anyway.

All the best


Chris
Offline husafreak  
#7 Posted : 23 July 2019 02:41:00(UTC)
husafreak

United States   
Joined: 09/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 558
Location: California, Bay Area
The last couple of Marklin steam locos I got have very detailed running gear. They certainly look like they would be more difficult to reassemble correctly than the older series of locos. But are they ever cool to watch in motion!
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