I gather that when you update the CS2 to the latest version, when you turn it on, it goes automatically into stop mode (like the CS3), that is, the red lights come on under the stop bar.

I have been having problems with my CS2 stop bar. It has been hit and miss, so much, that I have resorted to pulling the power wires from the back when I want everything to stop.

I have update the CS2 and now I am stuck with a non operating controller, as I cannot get the stop bar (red lights) to turn off, no matter where I press the stop bar.

Is there a solution to my problem (besides buying a CS3 )?

Will I have to try and go back to factory setting and possibly loose all data?

I knew I should have left the CS2 as it was

Any help, suggestions, ideas, solutions would be greatly appreciated

The issue is probably not the clicking of the button, but the unclicking (of the prior press)

This is still a mechanical issue (sticking mechanism) however you may get a bit more life out of it by biasing you press to the right or left of the big button

I better workaround to the PC option is to use a Mobile Station.

Instead of using all sorts of work arounds, why not address the root of the problem at get the button repaired? You can curse over the update all you want, but your problem is the button not working as it should.

That was my thought too - and an ms2 gives you an extra throttle ...

If you take the cs2 apart (you need a Torx No. 8 driver for the screws) you may find that the plastic piece that connects the stop button to the stop bar has lost its springiness or has cracked through fatique. If this is the case send an email to the Marklin service department with a photo of the piece and ask if they can supply another one. I got them to supply me one at no cost when i damaged one when repairing the cs2 I acquired. They will attempt to get you to send the cs2 to them for repair, but resist that and say that it seems to be a large cost to do this just to replace the plastic part.

KiwiAlan also suggested I should open the CS2, but I'm worried if I do that (knowing my luck) all the insides will fall out and I won't be able to put it back together.

If possible, could you give me any suggestions on what and what NOT to do, please? For example when I take the screws out will the back part come off easily? Do I have to be careful with all the rear connections that they stay in place. Suggestions like that.

Alan has stated that he used a Torx No 8 driver, what did you use Jean?

Sorry for being such a pain and many thanks

In all likelyhood, the very small push button switch mounted/soldered to the circuit board that registers the button press and in conjunction with a mechanical button spring, pushes back out when you release the stop bar, has just worn out. The part costs $1 or less, but can likely be had for a few $. The time to carefully unsolder/remove the old one and install a new one would be under an hour for someone comfortable with the work (though I've not been inside a CS2 to know how it is actually put together). I've done similar repair work on an XBOX360 game controller to replace a bumper button on the main board that failed.

If its a mechanical part (spring of metal or plastic flexing thing), then you need a new part (Märklin) or a donor broken CS2 to get one off of, but it should be replaceable.

In all cases it would be much cheaper to fix than for a full new CS3.

Finally got my hands on a MS2, connected the MS2 to my CS2, plugged the transformer in and waited until the CS2 was ready, still showing the red stop bar.

Clicked on the stop button on the MS2 and voila, the red stop bar on my CS2 went out woohoo

I even registered a few locos with the CS2 and everything came up smelling roses

One very happy 'little vegemite'

Thank you to all that provided suggestions, but I think I'll give it a miss with taking the CS2 apart, knowing my luck, 'Murphy' will be lurking around if I try to do it.

When the time comes to fix the CS2, I think I'll contact Dion and see if he can fix the problem.

Again, many thanks