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Offline French_Fabrice  
#1 Posted : 25 September 2016 14:36:03(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,476
Location: Lyon, France
Hello,

Today, there was a MRR trade at Lyon, and I've bought for the first time a HAG Loco.

The loco is HAG-198 11602 (pics below)...

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This loco is pure analog, and I'd like to convert it to Digital.

I'm not a novice in converting Marklin loks, but I'm completely new to HAG !

I intend to put an ESU LPV4 inside, but first I have to put a permanent magnet instead of the coil.
I've done a bit of googling before, and found that ref. HAG 161216-90 should be the ref. for the permanent magnet.
Is that true ?

As I'm completely newbie in the HAG world, I will gratefully take into account all your inputs.

Just read a post from Jacques (jvuye) saying that sometimes the magnet is a bit brittle ??? Any recommendation about that ?

Cheers
Fabrice

Edited by user 18 August 2017 18:04:14(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Offline Unholz  
#2 Posted : 25 September 2016 15:27:57(UTC)
Unholz

Switzerland   
Joined: 29/07/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,392
Location: Switzerland
Originally Posted by: French_Fabrice Go to Quoted Post

I've done a bit of googling before, and found that ref. HAG 161216-90 should be the ref. for the permanent magnet.
Is that true ?


Yes, true - and the thing looks like this:
http://www.buco-hag-maer...61216-90-permanentmagnet

It shouldn't really be brittle, unless you use a hammer to insert it. Wink Somtimes it fits a bit tightly, but with gentle pressure you should be able to mount it without much difficulty.

Some HAG digital conversion advice here: http://www.forum.hag-inf...Thread&threadID=5291
thanks 4 users liked this useful post by Unholz
Offline French_Fabrice  
#3 Posted : 25 September 2016 16:50:21(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,476
Location: Lyon, France
Thank you, Stefan !

Cheers
Fabrice
Offline French_Fabrice  
#4 Posted : 18 August 2017 18:03:53(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,476
Location: Lyon, France
Hello folks,

It took me a while to convert this loco, but it is now done. BigGrin

The fact that it is a HAG loco had no influence on the conversion process (except the permanent magnet I got had the lower part unglued Cursing , but I could fix it).
But I decided to do this conversion with LED (tiny ones - 603 and 605) and it is much more difficult than when the bulb is tight to the chassis Crying .

All the difficult parts are mechanical aspects:
- saw the original light guide in 3 pieces without breaking it Mad
- glue tiny LEDs on each sawed part Crying
- prevent the LED from illuminating all the inside of the loco Cursing
- manage all the bunch of wires in the loco body (it's like neuro surgery) Blink
- put micro-connectors in order to remove the body from the chassis Confused
...

As it is a Swiss loco, I've managed the 3+1 lighting mode, and to vary effects the possibility to have also 2 red lights at the opposite side instead of the +1 mode.

The decoder is a ESU Lokpilot M4 21MTC + additional plate 51968, in order to have 6 outputs (2 lights and AUX1 to AUX4).

Some pictures of the conversion:

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The wiring schema

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Rear body with LEDs and micro-connector.

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Male micro-connector for rear body

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Rear body in place

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Front body with gray adhesive tape, to prevent too much light inside

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Ready to put the front body in place

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Ready to test with the ESU Lokprogrammer

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3 white LEDs (rear)

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With +1 white LED in the opposite side

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2 rear red LEDs (instead of 3+1 mode); Front LEDs are white

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Front white LEDs

With the help of the Lokprogrammer, I was able to easily program the various functions:
- F0 = 3+1 mode, depending on the direction
- F1 = disable +1 mode (Condition: F0 and F1) = 3 white LEDs, depending on the direction
- F2 = enable red lights at the opposite (Condition: F0 and F1 and F2) = 3 white LEDs + 2 opposite red LEDs, depending on the direction
- F3 = push mode = only the white +1 opposite is lit (Condition: not F0 and F3), depending on the direction. Used when a front loco pulls and a rear loco pushes a train
- F4 = Forces +1 at both end in switching mode (Condition: not F0 and not F1 and not F2 and not F3 and F4)
- F5 = Forces 2 red lights at both end in switching mode (Condition: not F0 and F2 and not F3 and F5)
- F6 = Switching mode
- F7 = ABV off
Without the lokprogrammer, it would have been a nightmare to write the various CVs, especially about the conditions...

Cheers
Fabrice
thanks 7 users liked this useful post by French_Fabrice
Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#5 Posted : 19 August 2017 03:08:16(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,865
Location: CA, USA
Hi! Question- if you don't mind telling, what CV's did you use?
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Offline French_Fabrice  
#6 Posted : 19 August 2017 17:27:17(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,476
Location: Lyon, France
Hi !

Well, I think you want to know how to set up these complicated conditions...Blink Confused Blink

First, have at hand the ESU lokpilot V4 doc, both in english (edition 6) and german (edition 11). The german edition fixes some incorrect charts.
All is explained in chapter 12, but it's a bit tricky. I've understood the meaning of the doc with the already filled values for CVs from the lokprogrammer software...

Here is my function mapping:
UserPostedImage

Now I'm going to explain you how to set up the CV for line 1 [F0(f)] and line 10 [F4(r)] as an example.

Example of programming for mapping line 1 [F0(f)]:

CV31=16; CV32=2 to be able to access mapping line 1 to 16

-Condition: Forward, and F0 on, and F1 off
All these conditions are contained in Control CV A, i.e. CV257 = 4 (fwd) + 16 (F0 On) + 128 (F1 Off) = 148 (see tables at chapter 12.2.2 & chapter 12.2.2.1)

-Output: Front light(1) and AUX1(1) and AUX2(1)
All outputs are contained in control CV K, i.e. CV 266 = 1 (output head light on conf 1) + 4 (output AUX1 on conf 1) + 8 ( output AUX2 on conf 1)=13 (see table at chapter 12.2.2.2)

-logical function Dimmer:
Control CV M i.e. cv 268=64 (Dimmer) -see german doc (Edition 11) at 12.2.2.3 for the value 64, english doc (Edition 6) value 16 is wrong

Summary part 1:
CV31=16
CV32=2
CV257=148
CV266=13
CV268=64

Now special effects for outputs:
Here are the pictures
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CV31=16; CV32=0

*For Front light(1):
-Dimmable light [Mode select = 1 (CV259=1) ] with brightness=25 [CV262=25].
-LED Mode + Dimmer; [Special function CV 1 (CV263=16+128=144)]
*For AUX1(1):
-Dimmable light CV275=1 with brightness=25 CV278=25
-LED Mode + Dimmer; CV279=144
*For AUX2(1):
-Dimmable light CV283=1 with brightness=31 CV286=31
-LED Mode + Dimmer; CV287=144

Summary part 2:
CV31=16
CV32=0
CV259=1
CV262=25
CV263=144
CV275=1
CV278=25
CV279=144
CV283=1
CV286=31
CV287=144

Example of programming for mapping line 10 [(f4r)]:

CV31=16; CV32=2 to be able to access mapping line 1 to 16
-Condition: Reverse and F0 off and F1 off and F2 off and F3 off and F4 on. Use of control CV A and B for line 10 (CV 401 & 402)
CV401=8+32+128=168; CV402=2+8+16=26

-Output: AUX1(1) and AUX2(1). Use of control CV K (CV410)
CV410=4+8=12

-Logical function: Switching mode and Dimmer. Use of control CV M (CV412).
CV412=2+64=66

Summary part1:
CV31=16
CV32=2
CV401=168
CV402=26
CV410=12
CV412=66

Special effects for outputs: already set previously for AUX1(1) and AUX2(1)
Summary part 2:
Already defined in 1st example.

If needed, I can provide the full list of CV in text mode...

Cheers
Fabrice
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Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#7 Posted : 19 August 2017 17:58:21(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,865
Location: CA, USA
Thank you for this! Even more than I needed. I simply have a hag locomotive I've installed a Lokpilot 4.0 into, and despite trying the "autotune" function, it is running with some major jerking motions. I needed to find a good baseline setting for hag motor tunings!
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Offline French_Fabrice  
#8 Posted : 19 August 2017 18:10:16(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,476
Location: Lyon, France
I've applied the default setting for HAG motor type:

CV 002 = 4
CV 051 = 0
CV 052 = 15
CV 053 = 100
CV 054 = 40
CV 055 = 175
CV 056 = 200

It runs very smoothly...

Cheers
Fabrice
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Offline river6109  
#9 Posted : 20 August 2017 11:11:46(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Fabrice,

just to update you with the adapter plate 51968 it has now 6 Aux functions (Aux 1 - Aux 6) + 2 light functions, I'm surprised you've got the older type adapter plate only with 4 Aux functions.
to program the decoder I use the Lokprogrammer as well, I wouldn't know how to do it with the CV calculations.

another option you have with in the light configuration, when the loco is stationary the lights are dimmed and when the loco gets into motion the lights shine brighter. under: "enable special light functions" click the forward or reverse box all depends how your lights are programmed and this will increase the brightness when the loco starts moving

I've noticed under Aux 1 and Aux 3 you still have the switching mode you nay wonder when you engage Aux 1 and Aux 3 why the loco runs slowly.

regards.,

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline French_Fabrice  
#10 Posted : 20 August 2017 12:49:07(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,476
Location: Lyon, France
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Fabrice,

just to update you with the adapter plate 51968 it has now 6 Aux functions (Aux 1 - Aux 6) + 2 light functions, I'm surprised you've got the older type adapter plate only with 4 Aux functions.
to program the decoder I use the Lokprogrammer as well, I wouldn't know how to do it with the CV calculations.

another option you have with in the light configuration, when the loco is stationary the lights are dimmed and when the loco gets into motion the lights shine brighter. under: "enable special light functions" click the forward or reverse box all depends how your lights are programmed and this will increase the brightness when the loco starts moving

I've noticed under Aux 1 and Aux 3 you still have the switching mode you nay wonder when you engage Aux 1 and Aux 3 why the loco runs slowly.

regards.,

John


Hi John,

- About the 51968: I've ordered a kit 64635 to have some spare magnets (for further conversions) and used that kit for the decoder. The 51968 plate provided hasn't AUX5 & AUX6. Instead the 2 additional soldering points are labeled U+ twice (should be same as blue wire ?).
Maybe the combo kits are used to get rid of old plate version ?
Next time, I will order a single 51968...

- Good idea about the dimmed/full light. I'll try it.ThumpUp

- About the switching mode with two +1 lights on or two red lights on, it's to mimic some behavior I've found on other locos. But I don't know if it matches the real or not Wink

Cheers
Fabrice
Offline river6109  
#11 Posted : 20 August 2017 14:39:36(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Fabrice, I don't know whether you've misunderstood me, the switching mode when shown in the table will slow your locos down by 50%, they're ok under Aux 5 and 6

I had a surprise when I ordered them and didn't notice it straight away. there was no big announcement but I'm wuite pleased with it especially with either steam or Swiss elelctric locos.

regards.,

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline French_Fabrice  
#12 Posted : 20 August 2017 14:55:59(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,476
Location: Lyon, France
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Fabrice, I don't know whether you've misunderstood me, the switching mode when shown in the table will slow your locos down by 50%, they're ok under Aux 5 and 6
...


John, I didn't misunderstand you, but my answer might have been unclear.

Looking at my mapping table for lines (f4f, f4r) and lines (f5f, f5r), I've chosen when having either +1 LEDs lit on each side at same time (or red LEDs lit on each side at same time) to be in slow mode (switching mode). I did it on purpose.

However, I still have the switching mode alone available on key F6...

Cheers
Fabrice

Edited by user 01 September 2017 21:01:50(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline river6109  
#13 Posted : 20 August 2017 17:07:02(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: French_Fabrice Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
Fabrice, I don't know whether you've misunderstood me, the switching mode when shown in the table will slow your locos down by 50%, they're ok under Aux 5 and 6
...


John, I didn't misunderstood you, but my answer might have been unclear.

Looking at my mapping table for lines (f4f, f4r) and lines (f5f, f5r), I've chosen when having either +1 LEDs lit on each side at same time (or red LEDs lit on each side at same time) to be in slow mode (switching mode). I did it on purpose.

However, I still have the switching mode alone available on key F6...

Cheers
Fabrice


Fabrice, I see, very clever.

regards.,

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by river6109
Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#14 Posted : 24 August 2017 00:33:41(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,865
Location: CA, USA
Originally Posted by: French_Fabrice Go to Quoted Post
I've applied the default setting for HAG motor type:

CV 002 = 4
CV 051 = 0
CV 052 = 15
CV 053 = 100
CV 054 = 40
CV 055 = 175
CV 056 = 200

It runs very smoothly...

Cheers
Fabrice


Thanks! I'll try these settings soon and report back!
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