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Offline Rwill  
#1 Posted : 29 February 2016 12:18:31(UTC)
Rwill

United Kingdom   
Joined: 04/05/2015(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: England, London
I have been putting it off for days but at last I have laid upside down under my baseboard screwing wires onto banana plugs for turnouts and uncouplers. Now I am getting older and less agile but surely there has to be a better way?

And since I am in grumpy old man mood why have the latest turnout motors 7549(1) now got ridiculously short and skinny wires so that quite often they are not long enough to reach a 6083 cluster of 4 turnouts.

Breath out, coffee pot on and back upstairs on my back
Offline RayF  
#2 Posted : 29 February 2016 12:35:05(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,870
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Last time I worked on my layout I had exactly the same thoughts!

I made things a little easier for myself by setting the height of the layout such that I can sit on the floor under it and the bottom of the baseboards just clears the top of my head. Even so, it is literally a pain in the neck!

The best solution is to be able to swing the boards up or down through 90 degrees so that you are working on a vertical surface. I've done this with a small extension I made to the layout which is a 'plug-in' module. I can unplug it from the rest of the layout and lift it up until it's leaning against the wall behind, making wiring a doddle! The buildings and vehicles on this module are all removeable and everything else, like people and trees etc are glued down.

The issue of short cable lengths is one that always comes up. My solution for that is to extend all wires on the workbench before placing on the layout. You'd be suprised how easy it is to do this, if we remember to do it before rushing into installing our accessories in their final places!

Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by RayF
Offline kiwiAlan  
#3 Posted : 29 February 2016 13:57:26(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,463
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Make a creeper out of an old car seat that will recline. You get a nice cushioned seat with head rest and adjustable angle so you are always working at a comfortable height.

There was an article in a Model Railroader a good few years ago about someone who did one. he was in a position to weld up a frame with casters on it to mount the seat, but a similar thing could be done with a wood frame.
Offline Alsterstreek  
#4 Posted : 29 February 2016 14:15:55(UTC)
Alsterstreek

Germany   
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 5,842
Location: Hybrid Home
Economy version by another forum member (with test driver):
DSCN1434.JPG
Source:
https://www.marklin-user...ut--Version-2#post509944
thanks 6 users liked this useful post by Alsterstreek
Offline Rwill  
#5 Posted : 29 February 2016 15:22:07(UTC)
Rwill

United Kingdom   
Joined: 04/05/2015(UTC)
Posts: 777
Location: England, London
I'm less grumpy now - because I have nearly finished. Shortly I shall be scouring the carpet for the tiny screws that I unscrewed too much from a banana plug then cussing and swearing trying to screw them back in.

It just seems odd that we can have function 22 - sound of lok driver breaking wind yet other things have not moved on.

However a partial solution seems to be available in the form of Viessmann plugs that fit into 6083 sockets . At £3 for 40 they are very reasonable. Its just that I didn't order any!
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Rwill
Offline DaleSchultz  
#6 Posted : 29 February 2016 20:24:25(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
I dont try to screw wires into those plugs under the layout, nor do I try to solder there.

Much easier system is to use Scotchlock UY connectors. The turnout, light, signal or s88 wires from the top side of the layout are threaded down through a small hole to underneath. There the wire is simply connected to the longer cable going off to the k83/k84/s88/signal module as needed. no need to strip the wires even, just push them into the Scotchlock button and close them with a pair of pliers.

For track wiring I use Scotchlock tap and run connectors to tap into an insulated bus wire. Pics at http://layout.mixmox.com/1/20020224Wiretaps
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
Offline kiwiAlan  
#7 Posted : 29 February 2016 23:31:30(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,463
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Alsterstreek Go to Quoted Post
Economy version by another forum member (with test driver):


Oh yes, I had forgotten about that one Laugh Laugh

Offline kiwiAlan  
#8 Posted : 01 March 2016 00:08:29(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,463
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Rwill Go to Quoted Post
I'm less grumpy now - because I have nearly finished. Shortly I shall be scouring the carpet for the tiny screws that I unscrewed too much from a banana plug then cussing and swearing trying to screw them back in.


Lie on your side on the carpet and close the eye furthest from the carpet. You will see a lot of things that you didn't realise were there, but it often makes it easy to see dropped items, especially if they are of a colour that matches the floor colour.

Another trick is to put an old stocking (without holes!) over the end of a vacuum cleaner, and run the vacuum over the carpet. The stocking stops the screws disappearing into the cleaner and then you have to tip all the dirt out.
Offline witzlerh  
#9 Posted : 01 March 2016 03:07:58(UTC)
witzlerh

Canada   
Joined: 25/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 417
Location: Sherwood Park, AB, Canada
I turn out the lights and lay a flashlight on the side, the shadow are long and the glare off the shiny screw stands out.
A magnet works too.
Harald
CS2 DB & Canadian Era 3-6
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