Joined: 26/03/2015(UTC) Posts: 13 Location: Virginia, Vienna
|
I have Marklin M track uncouplers with lantern masts. There is the single yellow wire which obviously would hook up to the lighting connection via a distribution plate to my 280 Super transformer. Should I connect the single blue wire to a 7072 switch panel, or could I instead use a 7210 switch panel (which has four connections as opposed to the eight of the 7072)? The 7210 is in perfect shape (unwarped!).
|
 1 user liked this useful post by Don Greenwood
|
|
|
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW
|
Hi! With the 7072 the uncoupler will be activated only while you press a button. With a 7210 it will be on until you press the other button - forgetting that could fry the uncoupler track. Otherwise it will work. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
|
|
|
Joined: 02/08/2014(UTC) Posts: 783 Location: NEW JERSEY, USA
|
yes, I agree with HO. The 7072 is the one you want. It would be referred to as a "momentary contact" switch. I remember reading an article about using 9V-dc to power these units in order to eliminate the loud "buzzing" they produce when energized. I would like to know if this is true, and if so is there any damage to the coils??? mikey |
I love the smell of smoke fluid in the morning . |
 1 user liked this useful post by analogmike
|
|
|
Joined: 26/03/2015(UTC) Posts: 13 Location: Virginia, Vienna
|
Thanks for the information. But exactly what is the 7210 suited for if you run the risk of frying something connected to it?
|
|
|
|
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 15,443 Location: DE-NW
|
Originally Posted by: Don Greenwood  But exactly what is the 7210 suited for if you run the risk of frying something connected to it? You can use it to turn lights on/off or to control the power of sidings (with isolated centre rail). And many other things. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
 1 user liked this useful post by H0
|
|
|
Joined: 26/03/2015(UTC) Posts: 13 Location: Virginia, Vienna
|
Thanks for the information regarding the 7210 panel. Another question: I have connected two 5112 M track uncouplers to a 7072 control panel. One of the uncouplers does not work. The other will engage, but it buzzes and does not retract when the other button is pushed, although the buzzing stops. Suggestions? Is the buzzing related to using AC current?
|
 1 user liked this useful post by Don Greenwood
|
|
|
Joined: 14/04/2006(UTC) Posts: 304 Location: Southern California
|
The solenoid activates when the green wire is earthed. The plastic uncoupler pops up, and drops in when circuit opens. There is no forced action to move it down, it relies on gravity. Yes, it buzzes because of alternating current. If you use direct current, the solenoid will heat up and burn. In the past 2-Rail systems like Fleischmann used also AC for solenoids while track power was DC. Regards, Juha Originally Posted by: Don Greenwood  Thanks for the information regarding the 7210 panel. Another question: I have connected two 5112 M track uncouplers to a 7072 control panel. One of the uncouplers does not work. The other will engage, but it buzzes and does not retract when the other button is pushed, although the buzzing stops. Suggestions? Is the buzzing related to using AC current? Brakeman attached the following image(s): |
|
|
|
|
Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488
|
M track uncouplers do make a buzzing noise, which is rather loud, in use. If the uncoupling ramp does not come back down something may be binding or perhaps some lubrication with a electronic spray cleaner may help. With your other uncoupler there may be a wire disconnected which means to pry off the back to inspect it. The coil may be defective which you can check with a ohm meter. If all else fails there is eBay for a other one which in my experience is easier then a complicated fix or locating spare parts for a fix.
|
 1 user liked this useful post by SteamNut
|
|
|
Joined: 02/08/2014(UTC) Posts: 783 Location: NEW JERSEY, USA
|
i forget...won't the pickup shoe push the uncoupler down as the lok passes over it? i know them to stay up sometimes but never have they derailed a lok. mikey |
I love the smell of smoke fluid in the morning . |
 1 user liked this useful post by analogmike
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.