There shouldnt be ANY load compensation available in analogue mode. The load compensation relys on the fact that the track volatage is higher than what the motor requires so it can increase/decrease the motor power as nessecary to keep a constant speed. In analogue there is no "extra" voltage available and even if there was it is the only way to tell the loco how fast it should run so there is no load regulation available.

Thanks everyone for the quick response!
I guess I really need to do some background reading on digital model railroading before displaying my ignorance to the world.[:I] I've never wanted my model railroad hobby to get this sophisticated, but I can certainly appreciate how digital control has revolutionized the hobby. The big show layouts (i.e. Minitur Wunderland, Loxx Berlin, etc) all have lots of action due to the digital revolution.

From what I understand, most locomotive decoders can recognize whether or not the track is supplying an analog or digital signal, and will work in either environment. Nevertheless, a given motor may perform better in a digital environment (due to the load compensation feature of the decoder) than in an analog environment without any load compensation. This is what I experienced with the converted 3057 that I mentioned. Compared to a 3-pole LFCM motor that is typical of a lot of the older Maerklin loks, the 5-pole SDCM motor in analog is not that great. It doesn't have the torque of the older LFCM, and hence it "needs" load regulation to run at a reasonably steady speed.

I'm hoping that the S-B motors in analog mode without load compensation still have good enough characteristics to make it worthwhile. The high rpm motors along with a flywheel should help to maintain a steady speed around the layout (at least on flat sections of the layout).

I've studied the photo of the motor modification for a 3040 (E-40 e-lok) on the S-B webpage, and it seems that all of the required machining of the Maerklin motor block is just for the sake of clearance for the can motor; the precise positioning of the motor is taken care of with the supplied brass shims that are bonded to the existing motor cavity profile (correct me if I'm wrong). The adjustment of gear backlash is accomplished by positioning the motor on the plane formed by the shim. If this is the case, it seems that this installation could be accomplished by using a jeweler's saw and mini-grinder (Dremel tool). It may not look as pretty as a milling machine's work, but it would be functional.

Again, thanks everyone for your help with this!

Hi Marty
The jeweler saw and the Dremel tool won't do, believe me!
The precison required is within 0.05 mm, and surfaces need to be perfectly plane and square!
Difficult to achieve with hand tools (at least for most of us!)
And you'll need a wheel puller for proper disassembly and a wheel press (or a lathe) for reassembly.
I am not saying this to discourage you, just warning you against dissapointment.
If you feed your SB modified loco with DC,you won't need anything else in it but a pair of diodes for light changes.
If you run in AC, indeed you'd need the reversing unit, which might just as well, as Lutz mentionned, be a digital decoder.
With your 5 pole conversion of your 3057, used in analog, you *did not* have load compensation: hence your dissapointment with its poor performance. Only used in digital mode would you have enjoyed this feature.
If you are looking for someone in the US to perform a proper SB conversion; I can send you references off line.
Hope this helps.

Speaking of load compensation in analog mode (or the impossibility thereof):

On page 350 of the 2007/2008 English catalog, there is step-by-step pictorial on the digital conversion of a 3000 tank loco. The caption for the final step, reads as follows:

"Finished: The locomotive now has a tidy look inside, and even smaller models will impress you with a powerful propulsion system that has speed control with a load compensation feature, even in conventional analog operation."

After what I've learned in this discussion thread, this Märklin statement seems nothing less than bogus to me.[:(!]

There seems to be a similarly misleading statement in the English 2003/2004 catalog on page 14:

"While you have the full range of functions with digital operation, there are considerable advantages even with conventional operation. The silky smooth running allows careful switching maneuvers, and the maximum speed is adjustable on the locomotive as is the acceleration rate. The load compensation feature for ascending and descending grades keeps the speed constant within certain limits."

Is there or is there not load compensation in analog mode?

Thanks for the update and review.

I plan to do this with (some) of my HLA models.
I'm not skilled enough to do it myself though, so I would probably get SB-Modelbau to perform the conversion for me.

Hi Pietro,
The motor kits are graded from I to III, with III being the most difficult to install. The kit I installed, 22026a, is graded III. It was not easy to install, but not impossible, either. I requested the drawings for machining the motor block before I decided to purchase the kit, so I knew what I was getting into! Herr Bussjäger of SB-Modellbau emailed me a PDF of both the drawing and installation instructions.

I realized I could install this kit because the motor subassy and shim are based off of an existing feature in the motor block (the stator magnet slot). With this particular kit, all of the machining is just removing material for clearance. No machining really affects the precision of the motor placement. In fact, you could probably cut most of the upper half of the motor block off altogether. It is just used for added weight on the driving wheels now.

Other kits may base the motor placement on a machined surface that you would have to machine. Do a search on "SB-Modellbau" on this site, and you will find several threads with pictures of various installations.

I don't know what tools you have available or what your skill level is, so I can't really advise you one way or the other. I would recommend emailing SB-Modellbau and requesting the installation instructions and drawings to start. Also, carefully study the photo. I spent quite a bit of time thinking the whole thing through before lifting my Dremel tool. Once you start, there's no turning back!

By the way, I have to thank our fellow member Laaves for introducing me to these kits, and the great pictures he posted here. He inspired me to take the plunge!

Hi Marty,
good to see you took the plunge.
I have converted 20 locos now and just completed my 2nd BR96 ( Marklin 3796) and now doing another BR86 (Marklin 3096).
I originally started with the dremel and drill press but after the 8th conversion I purchased a micro milling Machine and its a great help - still have got another 10 plus locos to convert plus any I purchase 2nd hand.

Other members and yourself may be interested in that one CONVERSION I did is REVERSIBLE.
This loco is an electric, Marklin Cat # 3151, Faulhaber motor kit is 22031.
There is no cutting required - just remove the old motor and glue in the new one - if you do not like it you can simply put the old motor back in. This is a great way to start out if you are concerned about the cutting.
The converted locos are just superb.

Diesel

John,
The motors are either Maxon or Falhauber DC motors. Here's the website:

www.sb-modellbau.com

There is a "frequently asked questions" section on the website that addresses operating these motors in digital.

Diesel,
Thanks for the encouragement. I knew there had to be others who have installed these kits without using a milling machine. [^] I agree, however, that a mill would make the job alot easier and faster.

Thomas: I still haven't gotten around to installing a decoder in the 3040, but as a one-direction runnner it's unbeatable. Very smooth acceleration and slow speed running, and is not sensitive to dirty track or oxidized pukos at all. It's also a surprisingly strong puller.