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Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#1 Posted : 25 April 2014 08:53:50(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
I've just come across this ebay listing http://www.ebay.com/itm/...p;hash=item258d5a94bcand it caught my eye because it is reasonably cheap but also does not require to replace the magnet in old locos. Anyone knows it?Confused

Als,o for the ones of you who like going overboard check this out and then the other videos from the user who uses the decoder.
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#2 Posted : 25 April 2014 09:06:01(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
TD101??

There used to be a PD101 decoder, which like the so called TD101 could drive an AC loco directly. There was no load control, but you had 3 functions plus lights and access to all 80 MM addresses, and it could be programed to operate in DCC as well. Sadly it is no longer available (you used to order from www.pd101.com, but that domain no longer exists).

I had one of the PD101 decoders which worked quite well. I ended up putting it in a friend's 3071 SBB RAm railcar, where it still works today. Maybe the TD101 is a descendant of the PD101 decoder.
File Attachment(s):
PD101 einbau.pdf (39kb) downloaded 43 time(s).
PD101 programmierung.pdf (12kb) downloaded 37 time(s).
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#3 Posted : 25 April 2014 09:20:45(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz Go to Quoted Post
TD101??

There used to be a PD101 decoder, which like the so called TD101 could drive an AC loco directly. There was no load control, but you had 3 functions plus lights and access to all 80 MM addresses, and it could be programed to operate in DCC as well. Sadly it is no longer available (you used to order from www.pd101.com, but that domain no longer exists).

I had one of the PD101 decoders which worked quite well. I ended up putting it in a friend's 3071 SBB RAm railcar, where it still works today. Maybe the TD101 is a descendant of the PD101 decoder.


Quite interesting to hear that, now I do wonder too about any resemblance between the two. I've seen a few photos and the main concern is that I have noticed the quality of the soldering is not a strong point with even possible short circuits. In some cases might not matter but if you need to claim on the warranty I can see postage to and from Argentina is going to be an absolute pest. The youtube video where they show a loco running seems decent enough. Thank you!

Offline Shamu  
#4 Posted : 25 April 2014 11:07:17(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Well, seams like the real deal, though there is a Spanish company with the same name.

http://trenesdigitales.com.ar/
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#5 Posted : 25 April 2014 12:14:24(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
.......though there is a Spanish company with the same name.

http://trenesdigitales.com.ar/


The com.ar domain is Argentinian, not Spanish so I think this company is based in Argentina. If you look at the 'Our Stores' section of that website, it defaults to Buenos Aires.
Offline Shamu  
#6 Posted : 26 April 2014 10:53:39(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
.......though there is a Spanish company with the same name.

http://trenesdigitales.com.ar/


The com.ar domain is Argentinian, not Spanish so I think this company is based in Argentina. If you look at the 'Our Stores' section of that website, it defaults to Buenos Aires.


Arh, I was referring to the ".com" one David. Although it appears to be just a model shop. Smile
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
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Offline rodLinar  
#7 Posted : 01 May 2014 01:39:51(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Dear Friends,

I try to answer all your questions !!

First of all , this decoders are manufactured and designed in Argentina more precisely in Buenos Aires,
Trenes Digitales has no relationship with the "PD101" decoders.
As Iamnotthecrazyone said before, the decoder can be used in the old AC marklin locomotives and there no need to add a magnet because use the "original Märklin coil"
This decoder was designed to resist the old metalic "BLUE TRANSFORMER" high voltage glitch that normally destroy all the decoders. Has 6 High current output functions, 2 of them are used to drive the motor and the other 4 are fully programable with a lot of light functions ie Flash light random light pulse etc
The decoders are asembled with a pick and place machine and reflow oven so the solder quality is not an issue.
Regarding the waranty the decoder has 1 year of "manufacture errors " waranty, but as you said is in Argentina.
The TD101 is very popular here and was installed in more than 500 locomotives since 4 years up today

Feel free to ask me any question regarding this decoders and the other products of Trenes Digitales

Best Regards
Rodrigo


-This is the documentation saddly at this momment in spanish : http://www.trenesdigital...om.ar/manuales/td101.pdf
-The youtube instalation video is :

-The technical service and suport is info@trenesdigitales.com.ar
-The facebook webpage is: https://www.facebook.com/trenesdigitales






rodLinar attached the following image(s):
10258567_291211127711852_5421207425333964015_n.jpg
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Offline rodLinar  
#8 Posted : 01 May 2014 01:48:38(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
I forgot to comment in the last post that the decoders are INDIVIDUALY TESTED . in Analog and Digital environments.
Regards
Rodrigo
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#9 Posted : 01 May 2014 02:16:35(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,661
Location: New Zealand
Originally Posted by: rodLinar Go to Quoted Post
I try to answer all your questions !!


Thanks Rodrigo. The TD101 sounds like a good option, among other things, to digitise the 7051 cranes.
Offline rodLinar  
#10 Posted : 01 May 2014 04:35:42(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Bigdaddynz ,

Yes, The TD101 is good option , but the TD140G is specially designed to digitise 7051 Cranes. (you can control the speed and direction of the both motors at the same time)








This are the other decoders that manufacture TrenesDigitales


The TD101PG designed to digitise Marklin 7186 turntable .

The TD140G designed for Accesories or Turnouts (similar K83 or K84)

The TD141 is designed to contro individual marklin C turnouts.

The new designs comming up (not available for export right now)

TD110 Multimotor (AC-DC) Multiprotocol (DCC-MotorolaII) decoder


TD210 Multimotor (AC-DC) Multiprotocol (DCC-MotorolaII) decoder+ SOUND


Best Regards

rodLinar attached the following image(s):
Esquena de ConexionTD140G.jpg
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Offline waorb  
#11 Posted : 02 May 2014 04:45:31(UTC)
waorb

Brazil   
Joined: 31/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Brazil

Hello Rodrigo!

TD101 is only the decoder and costs US$ 70 for 4 pieces...

How much cost the decoder with sound?
(TD210?)
Do you go to make this also available at eBay?

Thanks!

Walter
Offline Kim R  
#12 Posted : 02 May 2014 07:09:17(UTC)
Kim R

Australia   
Joined: 06/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 67
Location: Brisbane
Well I bit the bullet and purchased 1 pack of 4 decoders from this ad on eBay. I got a quick reply telling me that there were a couple of public holidays hapening in Argentina and they would not be sending my package until Thurs/Fri next week. I will let you know in a few more weeks how it all worked out.
Offline Shamu  
#13 Posted : 02 May 2014 07:47:55(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Originally Posted by: Kim R Go to Quoted Post
Well I bit the bullet and purchased 1 pack of 4 decoders from this ad on eBay. I got a quick reply telling me that there were a couple of public holidays hapening in Argentina and they would not be sending my package until Thurs/Fri next week. I will let you know in a few more weeks how it all worked out.


Well best of luck Kim, be very interested to see how you go with them...... although;

"The decoder is installed simply by removing the original investor and replacing it by the decoder, note that you do not need to add a permantente fridge magnet." Confused

A shame really as I have a fridge full of them and was hoping to put them to some use.
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
Offline Kim R  
#14 Posted : 02 May 2014 15:06:21(UTC)
Kim R

Australia   
Joined: 06/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 67
Location: Brisbane
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post

Well best of luck Kim, be very interested to see how you go with them...... although;

"The decoder is installed simply by removing the original investor and replacing it by the decoder, note that you do not need to add a permantente fridge magnet." Confused

A shame really as I have a fridge full of them and was hoping to put them to some use.


Hahahaha. Me too!

Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#15 Posted : 03 May 2014 00:05:03(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
Originally Posted by: Kim R Go to Quoted Post
Well I bit the bullet and purchased 1 pack of 4 decoders from this ad on eBay. I got a quick reply telling me that there were a couple of public holidays hapening in Argentina and they would not be sending my package until Thurs/Fri next week. I will let you know in a few more weeks how it all worked out.


I think I will too but knowing myself it will take forever before I install them so it'll be great if you let us know how you went with them. Thanks!
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#16 Posted : 03 May 2014 00:10:34(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
Hello Rodrigo,

Do I understand you work in the company making them?
Is the company itself selling the decoders directly on ebay or is the people on ebay just a third party that buys them from the makers and resell them?

Thank you!
Offline rodLinar  
#17 Posted : 03 May 2014 04:11:25(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post
Hello Rodrigo,

Do I understand you work in the company making them?
Is the company itself selling the decoders directly on ebay or is the people on ebay just a third party that buys them from the makers and resell them?

Thank you!


Hello, As you say I work for the company , we sale the decoders directly at Ebay. We are trying to open new markets and looking for resalers arround the world. The idea is to go to Nuremberg in February at the Toys Fair with the Argentinan booth. At this moment exist a huge quantity of AC locomotives that can be converted to Digital.

If you have questions let me know. I'll try to answer as soon as possible. ( today is holyday in Argentina)
Best Regards
Rodrigo
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Offline mmervine  
#18 Posted : 04 May 2014 15:43:40(UTC)
mmervine

United States   
Joined: 30/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,883
Location: Keene, NH
Are you able to do any load regulation with an AC motor and your decoder?
Märklin C-track, Marklin Digital & ECoS, multi-era French & Swiss
http://www.ete-ene.org/m...mervines-layout-gallery/
Offline rodLinar  
#19 Posted : 04 May 2014 20:11:07(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Originally Posted by: mmervine Go to Quoted Post
Are you able to do any load regulation with an AC motor and your decoder?


No . This decoder has no Load Regulation. The TD101 works directly with the original winding field of marklin. To make a Load balace, you need to measure the FEM and to do that you need to have a HAMO field to became a AC motor in DC motor.

Best Regards
Rodrigo

Offline rodLinar  
#20 Posted : 04 May 2014 20:24:06(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Originally Posted by: waorb Go to Quoted Post

Hello Rodrigo!

TD101 is only the decoder and costs US$ 70 for 4 pieces...

How much cost the decoder with sound?
(TD210?)
Do you go to make this also available at eBay?

Thanks!

Walter


Hello Walter, you are right the 4 pieces of TD101 cost 70USD. But you can pay me in R$ I have an account in Brasil if you are interested .

The decoder TD210 with sound is under test right now. Some of our most experienced customers have one and they are evaluating and criticizing to help us to find bugs in the firmware.

I believe that during this year I will sale the TD210 only in Argentina . The price is USD55.. Is highly probable that the next year the TD210 will be available at Ebay.

Grato !
Rodrigo
Offline gerardo960  
#21 Posted : 04 May 2014 22:15:52(UTC)
gerardo960

Argentina   
Joined: 22/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: Argentina
Hello here in Argentina is quite used this decoder by the people performing the converciones of Märklin locomotives in particular there is a group called Märklin Club located in Argentina facebook they tell their experiences with them.
Offline Kim R  
#22 Posted : 06 May 2014 01:11:24(UTC)
Kim R

Australia   
Joined: 06/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 67
Location: Brisbane
As an upgdate, Rodrigo has contacted me and said:

Dear Kim,
The packet is ready and will be shipped tomorrow morning. The decoders where 100% tested twice to avoid any problem.
I'll add the Tracking number at EBAY . Let me Know when the packet arrives.
Best Regards
Rodrigo

Woot! They are on their way! Thanks Rodrigo!
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Offline Shamu  
#23 Posted : 06 May 2014 02:32:17(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Spiffo Kim,

Look forward to hearing how you go with them. Although I hope you manage to decipher the instructions as the net based translation seams to be rather odd to say the least.

Think I'd give them a go depending on your success with them but be more interested in their version of the K83's.

Anyhoo, look forward to hearing in a month or so how you go with them.

Success. (can't spell the Klingon)
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
Offline rodLinar  
#24 Posted : 06 May 2014 02:41:54(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
Spiffo Kim,

Look forward to hearing how you go with them. Although I hope you manage to decipher the instructions as the net based translation seams to be rather odd to say the least.

Think I'd give them a go depending on your success with them but be more interested in their version of the K83's.

Anyhoo, look forward to hearing in a month or so how you go with them.

Success. (can't spell the Klingon)



Hi,

The manuals at this momment are written in Spanish , but I'm traslating to english right know! Probably you will find some gramatical errors but will be better than use google ;)

I'll post the link as soon as I finished the translation.

Best Regards
Rodrigo
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Offline Gustavo Villa  
#25 Posted : 07 May 2014 17:55:17(UTC)
Gustavo Villa

Chile   
Joined: 17/07/2005(UTC)
Posts: 260
Location: Viña del Mar, Chile
Dear friends, last weekend I stayed in the city of Rosario in a Model Railroad expo and I had the chance to see some of this TD decoders in action (mobile decoder and stationary turnout decoders), all I can say is they all work flawless the 2 days the expo was open, even the main layout equipped with aprox two dozens of turnout decoders show no trouble whatsoever. I also meet Rodrigo in the expo; he was very helpful taking a lot of his time answering all my questions.
Some time ago I also receive some TD decoders in the multiprotocol version (TD110) as a beta tester, and after some fine tunning of the CVs I had the running smoothness I like, so, for sure I recommend TD products and their client service.

Regards

Gustavo
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Offline Kim R  
#26 Posted : 22 May 2014 00:34:54(UTC)
Kim R

Australia   
Joined: 06/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 67
Location: Brisbane
Originally Posted by: rodLinar Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
Spiffo Kim,

Look forward to hearing how you go with them. Although I hope you manage to decipher the instructions as the net based translation seams to be rather odd to say the least.

Think I'd give them a go depending on your success with them but be more interested in their version of the K83's.

Anyhoo, look forward to hearing in a month or so how you go with them.

Success. (can't spell the Klingon)



Hi,

The manuals at this momment are written in Spanish , but I'm traslating to english right know! Probably you will find some gramatical errors but will be better than use google ;)

I'll post the link as soon as I finished the translation.

Best Regards
Rodrigo


Well the package arrived on Tuesday and I picked it up from the post office yesterday. I only had a chance to look it over and everything looks fine. There was a brief english instruction sheet detailing how to wire the unit up and it mentioned that is was set to channel 40 by default. Unfortunately it said nothing about setting other channels which will be fun.

As I have assignments for uni to finish this weekend I doubt I will get the chance to upgrade any locos. Last weekend I sent an hour installing my mobile station and figuring out how to get my one digital loco to work on it with success. I also have received a 5 pole motor upgrade kit for my P8 (Class 38) loco so my plan is to upgrade the motor in that and install the first TD101 decoder into that as the trial. This is exciting! I can't wait!

How far away is the English manual Rodrigo?
Offline franciscohg  
#27 Posted : 22 May 2014 01:11:31(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,265
Location: Patagonia
hello Kim, as far as i know, the TD101 is for use with universal AC motors, like the one your P8 has already installed, it will not work with the 5 pole motor kit wich turn the motor into a DC one.....for this one you should use any other standard decoder.
Regards
Francisco
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
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Offline rodLinar  
#28 Posted : 22 May 2014 01:16:36(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Dear Friends ,
I have to make a comment. During the past days the manufacturer of the PD101 has contacted me because think that is not correct that I use a decoder name so equal ( my decoder is TD101) . I agree that the name is very similar, and they are using it for a long time.
I'm deciding the new name to have no conflict with another manufacturer and I'll post it In the next days .

Wolfgang sorry for the inconvenient.

Best Regards
Rodrigo
Offline rodLinar  
#29 Posted : 22 May 2014 01:42:48(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Originally Posted by: Kim R Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: rodLinar Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Shamu Go to Quoted Post
Spiffo Kim,

Look forward to hearing how you go with them. Although I hope you manage to decipher the instructions as the net based translation seams to be rather odd to say the least.

Think I'd give them a go depending on your success with them but be more interested in their version of the K83's.

Anyhoo, look forward to hearing in a month or so how you go with them.

Success. (can't spell the Klingon)



Hi,

The manuals at this momment are written in Spanish , but I'm traslating to english right know! Probably you will find some gramatical errors but will be better than use google ;)

I'll post the link as soon as I finished the translation.

Best Regards
Rodrigo


Well the package arrived on Tuesday and I picked it up from the post office yesterday. I only had a chance to look it over and everything looks fine. There was a brief english instruction sheet detailing how to wire the unit up and it mentioned that is was set to channel 40 by default. Unfortunately it said nothing about setting other channels which will be fun.

As I have assignments for uni to finish this weekend I doubt I will get the chance to upgrade any locos. Last weekend I sent an hour installing my mobile station and figuring out how to get my one digital loco to work on it with success. I also have received a 5 pole motor upgrade kit for my P8 (Class 38) loco so my plan is to upgrade the motor in that and install the first TD101 decoder into that as the trial. This is exciting! I can't wait!

How far away is the English manual Rodrigo?




Dear Kim ,
I hope to finish the manual on monday / thursday!
As Francisco said the decoder is designed to be used in AC marklin motors. The decoder will work perfectly (and smoothly) with a 5 pole rotor, but you MUST leave installed the original stator coil.
Best Regards
Rodrigo

Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#30 Posted : 22 May 2014 02:17:25(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
Kim since to get it right (hopefully) it took me much longer than previously thought, I'll put it here as it may benefit others too.

The CV value for the address is (1)
Modifying configuration settings with the mobile station:

1) Delete all locos from MS to avoid transmitting incorrect info to the decoder.

2)Press stop to cut all power to rails.

3)Enter programming mode (I suppose they refer to "Program loK")

4)Change the address number to choose CV. Press ESC-Edit lok- address- enter the CV # you want (1 for address change)- press red button.

5)After pressing the red button the lights will go on constantly for about one second indicating the decoder selected the chosen CV.

6)Change the address number with the new value for the address. Press ESC - Edit lok - address - input new address number for the CV - press red button.

7)After pressing the red button lights will flash several times indicating the decoder stored the new value in the selected CV.

8)Press Stop to cut power to the rails

9)When power is restored to the track the decoder will accept the new modified CV value.
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Offline Kim R  
#31 Posted : 22 May 2014 02:52:28(UTC)
Kim R

Australia   
Joined: 06/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 67
Location: Brisbane
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post
Kim since to get it right (hopefully) it took me much longer than previously thought, I'll put it here as it may benefit others too.

The CV value for the address is (1)
Modifying configuration settings with the mobile station:

1) Delete all locos from MS to avoid transmitting incorrect info to the decoder.

2)Press stop to cut all power to rails.

3)Enter programming mode (I suppose they refer to "Program loK")

4)Change the address number to choose CV. Press ESC-Edit lok- address- enter the CV # you want (1 for address change)- press red button.

5)After pressing the red button the lights will go on constantly for about one second indicating the decoder selected the chosen CV.

6)Change the address number with the new value for the address. Press ESC - Edit lok - address - input new address number for the CV - press red button.

7)After pressing the red button lights will flash several times indicating the decoder stored the new value in the selected CV.

8)Press Stop to cut power to the rails

9)When power is restored to the track the decoder will accept the new modified CV value.


Wow! That is fantastic! Thanks very much!
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Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#32 Posted : 22 May 2014 03:00:08(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
For everyone else, I forgot to mention that's specific to the Mobile station only.
Offline rodLinar  
#33 Posted : 22 May 2014 03:02:37(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Kim,shortly I'll post a video to help to program the cvs . Give me a couple of days.
Offline Kim R  
#34 Posted : 25 May 2014 23:47:20(UTC)
Kim R

Australia   
Joined: 06/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 67
Location: Brisbane
OK, I installed the td101 decoder into my 3093 BR 38 loco with the DCM type motor yesterday. the wiring up was pretty straight forward, the main trick was that the two wires coming out of the transformer (forward/reverse wires) are covered with an insulated sheath AND underneath there is a thin insulated coating as well. First up I did not see the coating and wondered why the solder did not take well. When I realised I used a flame to burn off the coating then sanded the wire ends to make them bright.

Anyway, it all went pretty well. I put the loco on the track and it worked fine for a while. Very smooth, quite and more reactive than when I used it in analogue. After about 10 minutes of use I pushed it up to top speed, which was less than analogue but still pretty fast. Then the motor started to make a high pitch bussing sound and dropped speed markedly. I dialled the controller back to half but the buzzing continued on and off but with increasing regularity. I kept dropping the speed but the buzzing got worse and worse. It is like the bearing are worn out or something else.

Does anyone have any idea what happened to it? It has never done this while running analogue. Note that I only fitted the decorder. I did not end up fitting the 5 pole motor or changing any part of the engine.
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#35 Posted : 26 May 2014 00:49:02(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
If it is high pitch have you tried oiling it? If it is the sound I am thinking of you might even need to take the rotor out and clean the ends of the shaft then oil it. If you do that you should unsolder the field coil from the brush holder plate as moving the cables a lot will lead to a broken wire and ruin the magnet. I would try just adding oil first. You've said initially went fine so it shouldn't be the case but some decoders cause the most unusual rough noises on motors but generally is more like worn out gears grinding against each other.
Offline Kim R  
#36 Posted : 27 May 2014 08:28:17(UTC)
Kim R

Australia   
Joined: 06/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 67
Location: Brisbane
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post
If it is high pitch have you tried oiling it? If it is the sound I am thinking of you might even need to take the rotor out and clean the ends of the shaft then oil it. If you do that you should unsolder the field coil from the brush holder plate as moving the cables a lot will lead to a broken wire and ruin the magnet. I would try just adding oil first. You've said initially went fine so it shouldn't be the case but some decoders cause the most unusual rough noises on motors but generally is more like worn out gears grinding against each other.


That was good advice. Since I had the loco open and my grubby fingers all over it I must have wiped too much oil off. Oiled it and everything is fine. Well almost. The last thing I need to solve is how to connect the gray wire properly for the front light. If I just wire it directly the light won't go on. If I wire the light to the pickup it flickers. I am not sure what to do about that.
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#37 Posted : 27 May 2014 11:06:44(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,044
Originally Posted by: Kim R Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post
If it is high pitch have you tried oiling it? If it is the sound I am thinking of you might even need to take the rotor out and clean the ends of the shaft then oil it. If you do that you should unsolder the field coil from the brush holder plate as moving the cables a lot will lead to a broken wire and ruin the magnet. I would try just adding oil first. You've said initially went fine so it shouldn't be the case but some decoders cause the most unusual rough noises on motors but generally is more like worn out gears grinding against each other.


That was good advice. Since I had the loco open and my grubby fingers all over it I must have wiped too much oil off. Oiled it and everything is fine. Well almost. The last thing I need to solve is how to connect the gray wire properly for the front light. If I just wire it directly the light won't go on. If I wire the light to the pickup it flickers. I am not sure what to do about that.


Having a look to that link you've sent me a few days ago it appears the grey cable goes to one of the poles of the front light, the yellow cable goes to the rear light and the orange (is there orange?) is the common for the left over poles of the two lights. You must insulate the lights from having any connection to the chassis or there could be trouble.
Offline Kim R  
#38 Posted : 28 May 2014 04:23:51(UTC)
Kim R

Australia   
Joined: 06/06/2012(UTC)
Posts: 67
Location: Brisbane
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post

Having a look to that link you've sent me a few days ago it appears the grey cable goes to one of the poles of the front light, the yellow cable goes to the rear light and the orange (is there orange?) is the common for the left over poles of the two lights. You must insulate the lights from having any connection to the chassis or there could be trouble.


That makes it difficult. The light bulb 'earths' through the chassis. I might have to replace it with an LED. It is good to know what the orange is for though.

In another thought, I wonder what would happen if I connected the orange to the chassis like the brown one already is?

Offline Shamu  
#39 Posted : 28 May 2014 04:26:46(UTC)
Shamu

Australia   
Joined: 12/07/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,068
Location: In a building site in Yeppoon
Originally Posted by: Kim R Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post

Having a look to that link you've sent me a few days ago it appears the grey cable goes to one of the poles of the front light, the yellow cable goes to the rear light and the orange (is there orange?) is the common for the left over poles of the two lights. You must insulate the lights from having any connection to the chassis or there could be trouble.


That makes it difficult. The light bulb 'earths' through the chassis. I might have to replace it with an LED. It is good to know what the orange is for though.

In another thought, I wonder what would happen if I connected the orange to the chassis like the brown one already is?



NO

DON'T even think about it

VERY bad things will happen

In a rush to go out but by all means replace the bulbs with LEDS using the "orange " for "-" BUT NEVER connect the brown and orange
Sad when its cheaper to buy a new 29640 starter set from Germany than a CS2 on its own in Oz, welcome to the joys of Marklin down under .
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Shamu
Offline rodLinar  
#40 Posted : 28 May 2014 04:50:19(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Originally Posted by: Kim R Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: Iamnotthecrazyone Go to Quoted Post
If it is high pitch have you tried oiling it? If it is the sound I am thinking of you might even need to take the rotor out and clean the ends of the shaft then oil it. If you do that you should unsolder the field coil from the brush holder plate as moving the cables a lot will lead to a broken wire and ruin the magnet. I would try just adding oil first. You've said initially went fine so it shouldn't be the case but some decoders cause the most unusual rough noises on motors but generally is more like worn out gears grinding against each other.


That was good advice. Since I had the loco open and my grubby fingers all over it I must have wiped too much oil off. Oiled it and everything is fine. Well almost. The last thing I need to solve is how to connect the gray wire properly for the front light. If I just wire it directly the light won't go on. If I wire the light to the pickup it flickers. I am not sure what to do about that.


Dear kim , The flickering is normal when the one side of the bulb is connected to the chasis.
First of all verify that the brown cable that comes from the central goes to the outer rails and the red one goes to the central rail. With this configuration the flickering exist but is very low.

Another option is isolate the bulb holder and use orange cable as return instead the chassi , another option is to connect a led using the orange cable as current return as I show below

ORANGE ----------------------[1k ohm]-----------|LED|------------- YELLOW/GREY

Exist a circuit yo minimize or avoid the flickering without isolate the I'll post in some seconds.
Regards
Rodrigo
Offline rodLinar  
#41 Posted : 28 May 2014 04:55:10(UTC)
rodLinar


Joined: 01/05/2014(UTC)
Posts: 14
Location: BUENOS AIRES, Caital federal
Kim by the way, you will have the same problem with any decoder if you use the chasis as current return. This is an chematic to avoid the flickering in the bulb holders connected to the chasis. The only problem of this schematic is the space.
rodLinar attached the following image(s):
Parpadeo.gif
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by rodLinar
Offline waorb  
#42 Posted : 04 July 2014 19:57:15(UTC)
waorb

Brazil   
Joined: 31/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 868
Location: Brazil
Hello everyone.

Let me update this post.

I also ordered those decoders from Rodrigo in Argentina. I received a well done package 2 weeks ago, and installed just one decoder until now.

It was installed in a Diesel Lok V200 from the 60s/70s. I don't know the exact model/date it is...

(should one of you help me? ... Road number 200 006 that came in a blue box completely knocked down so the buyer was needed to assemble it at home)

Back to the decoder, was a flawlessly installation, just cutted the wires, resoldered it also with thermoplastic isolators to avoid short circuits, now the Lok is running fine.

That model have lamps connected to the chassis, so the orange wire needed to be soldered "directly" to the lamp to avoid flickering.

I notice that the motor runs significantly faster to one side than the other... I assigned that way as forward, so the reverse should be at a lowest throttle.

This weekend I should install another decoder in a steam lok with the same age...

Talking about Rodrigo, every contact I had made with him, he was always ready to answer. Thanks Rodrigo.
I would recomend his product to anyone that wants this kind of decoder.

Cheers,

Walter
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