Hi guys,

Look what I found.

http://www.andreas-nothaft.de/

My project list just got a lot longer.

Ted

There was a company called TL-Decals that made assorted rail related decals. As far as more specific lettering or numbering for a particular locomotive, your best option would be to google it or to check with a specialist dealer that does kitbashing or small production models.

Regards

Mike C

Yes, I have, with the Testor's paper and clear decal overcoat.

Results vary depending on how sharp your source image is. With graphics I found online, I had better results using larger imagines and printing at reduced size. I used the trial-an-error method on plain paper until I had the image scaled correctly. Graphics that you create yourself with a draw/paint program work best.

One thing: Wait a day or so after printing to spray the decal overcoat on, and apply it in a few light sprays. The spray has a tendency to make colors run and bleed if sprayed on too quickly, or too heavily.

Hi,
I've used inkjet waterslide decals on a woodworking project which was a large decal compared to a MRR decal, and I can offer some comments based on that experience.

There is no white inkjet ink, as that is the printer paper, so to get white in a decal requires a white decal sheet, which is available. As you have to hand cut around the
decal it will also show some white background from the sheet. It that case you would likely fill any background areas and make a border with a color to match the model.
That matching may be a problem with a decal but there's also transparent decal sheet and no white. The transparent sheet does not produce a strong color pop, as inkjet inks are not opaque inks to start with. I assume real decal backing film is printed on like an ink so there is no background to cut out, but these decals need to be hand cut out.

I was using an Epson stylus photo printer at the time and the inks back then were not water resistant and needed some protection. I likely used an acrylic spray and had to go
very lightly or risk smudging the decal. The decals hold up the same as regular decals. The printer I have now, Epson workforce1100, uses "water resistant inks". I haven't
done any decal work with it so I can't comment on how water resistant they are, but if you can, try and use a printer that uses water resistant inks. You may still need to
put some protection but you can always test it first and leave it in the water bath for the minimum amount of time. I can say that for normal printing on paper I haven't seen any ink smudging. There are also some flattening agents. I haven't used any but it might be worth trying in order to get more of a painted on vs applied look. (Micro-mark in the US sells something and that's also where I bought my decal sheets. Once printed and cut out they behave just like any other water slide decal. I just looked at the testors user reviews on Amazon and they sound favorable. I also notice that micro-mark has laser sheets as well which might give more opaque looking colors.

To sum it up, it's probably not going to look quite as good as a real decal but one has to decide for oneself if it looks good enough. Perhaps DTaylor91 can post a photo of the applied testors' decal. If anyone knows of a comparison test that would be great.

Hope this hasn't hijacked the original thread.