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Offline French_Fabrice  
#1 Posted : 15 April 2013 21:53:07(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,489
Location: Lyon, France
Hello Friends,

I'm in the process of disassembling my layout "Trossingen", made with K tracks.

Apart from the fact it's a long process, I'm facing 2 problems with the ballasted tracks :
-on some tracks, some pieces of remaining ballast adhere strongly to the track (I've certainly put too much glueBlushing ), and it's really tedious to remove remaining ballast particles from the track with a sharp tool Crying, once the piece of tracks is removed from the layout ... Is there any known effective method (throwing the track away is not an option Glare ) to get rid of these particles in a decent lapse of time ?
-the second problem I'm facing with is rust which has started to appear on the below face of some ballasted tracks; I've spent one full hour with a wire brush inserted in the dremel to clean up adhesive residue and rust to only 4 pieces of track...I'll be still busy cleaning the tracks by Christmas Scared ! So, same question : Is there a known effective method to remove adhesive residue, and more important regarding the rust, how do you proceed to remove it: 1) Clean with a wire brush ?, 2) put anti-rust product ? 3) repaint the below face with metal paint ?

Thanks for your advices to a "cleaner apprentice"Smile

Cheers
Fabrice

Edited by user 16 April 2013 20:43:46(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline Mark5  
#2 Posted : 16 April 2013 05:51:12(UTC)
Mark5

Canada   
Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,422
Location: Montreal, Canada
Hi Fabrice,

The question for me would be, do I need to remove the ballast?

Its K-track, its meant to be ballasted. If you are going to use it again, a few bits won't make a difference.

In the case of the rusted track, then yes, some repair and rust-proofing might be a good idea.
Was just looking at a can of corrostop, an anti-rust paint, today at the hardware store to repair a spot on my old jalopy.

Either way, if you think a seller would pay substantially more for it, then ask yourself if its worth the cleaning time and effort to do it.
As far as tools, you are on the way, a knife is ok, but might cut off some sleeper ends; wire brush could remove the protective paint.

I am assuming this is the 2100 series, hollow rail K track?
If so, you do know that the 2200 series is made of some kind of nickel-stainless steel, and does not really rust....
.... unless your [someone's] cat happens to pee on it.

Best of luck,
Mark

ps Would love to hear how it works out for you.



DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1950-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70.
In single point perspective, where do track lines meet?
Offline river6109  
#3 Posted : 16 April 2013 06:27:38(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,874
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Fabrice,

one way of removing it is water but if your boards aren't designed to take water for a little while, don't proceed. We've had and still have the same problem although we are re-using the k-track. for future references it is recommendable to use cork as an underlay and when you change the track all you have to do is cut inot the cork and the track than lifts off with the cork.
another method we are using when the k-track is glues to the board, use a screwdriver the width of the sleepers and remove the ballast from between the sleepers. if you secured the rails e.g. with hot glue or nails see if you can remove it before using a very thin flat metal piece, e.g. ruler and try to get under the track but make sure the metal is wider than the track.

regards.,

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by river6109
Offline French_Fabrice  
#4 Posted : 16 April 2013 08:24:43(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,489
Location: Lyon, France
Hi,

Thanks for your feedback, guys !

@Mark: I'm using only 2200 series. But unhapilly, some pieces have been rusted a bit. I mean the rail by itself is not rusted (it's stainless steel), it's only the below part of the piece of track which is not rust-protected, and the mix of glue and water (mainly the water is the culprit ?) has started to generate corrosion. I'm using a very small screwdriver to remove the remaining ballast adhering to the piece of track...

@John: I've heard about using water to dissolve the glue, but as said, my boards will let the water drops below so it's not a good idea...

Finally, my main trouble is rust (removing ballast is just tedious but no harm). I'll buy some anti-rust product an re-protect the damaged tracks.

John, do you think using cork will prevent/lower the rust phenomenon ?

Cheers
fabrice
Offline river6109  
#5 Posted : 16 April 2013 08:33:25(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,874
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Fabrice, yes by using cork the glue is also absorbed by the cork leaving the track and connectors free of oxidation.

regards.,

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline Goofy  
#6 Posted : 16 April 2013 09:35:38(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,273
Originally Posted by: French_Fabrice Go to Quoted Post
Hello Friends,

I'm in the process of disassembling my layout "Trossingen", made with K tracks.

Apart from the fact it's a long process, I'm facing 2 problems with the ballasted tracks :
-on some tracks, some pieces of remaining ballast adhere strongly to the track (I've certainly put too much glueBlushing ), and it's really tedious to remove remaining ballast particles from the track with a sharp tool Crying, once the piece of tracks is removed from the layout ... Is there any known effective method (throwing the track away is not an option Glare ) to get rid of these particles in a decent lapse of time ?
-the second problem I'm facing with is rust which has started to appear on the below face of some ballasted tracks; I've spent one full hour with a wire brush inserted in the dremel to clean up adhesive residue and rust to only 4 pieces of track...I'll be still busy cleaning the tracks by Christmas Scared ! So, same question : Is there a known effective method to remove adhesive residue, and more important regarding the rust, how do you proceed to remove it: 1) Clean with a wire brush ?, 2) put anti-rust product ? 3) repaint the below face with metal paint ?

Thanks for your advices to a "cleaner apprentice"Smile

Cheers
Fabrice


Use hot water and dish liquid.

H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
Offline Rinus  
#7 Posted : 16 April 2013 10:36:33(UTC)
Rinus


Joined: 20/02/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,729
Location: Wageningen, The Netherlands
Hi Fabrice,

I use Thinner. But it depends on what glue you used. I used a mixture of primer for your plastering wall surface and alcohol.

A bit of Thinner does clear this almost instantly.

Regards,

Rinus
Offline hxmiesa  
#8 Posted : 16 April 2013 12:01:38(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,588
Location: Spain
I have un-ballasted my rails several times.
As I use white glue (for wood and paper) to ballast, I simply leave the tracks soaking in hot soap-water for a while, and then brush off the ballast with a stiff brush.
Track should not be left for too long in the water (because of rust-danger) -and should be throrougly dried immediately after brushing.
I dry it carefully with a towel, and then a hair-dryer.

---

If the problem is liftning the rails up from the baseboard, that can be a problem depending on how you have applied the ballast in the first place. If you have laid the tracks directly on wet glue, I suppose you can have a problem. However, if you ballast using spray and diluded glue(+soap), the track is easily loosened by spraying some water directly on the ballasted tracks. That will loosen it enough for you to be able to tear up the tracks. (Remember to remove all screws first!) Much care must be taken with the fragile K-tracks, and I usually damage around 10% of my trackage at this point. (These tracks can later be used en hidden areas, where a missing end of a tie/sleeper isnt a problem...)
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline kbvrod  
#9 Posted : 16 April 2013 14:58:51(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Denatured alcohol
Offline Goofy  
#10 Posted : 16 April 2013 18:11:29(UTC)
Goofy


Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,273
Originally Posted by: Goofy Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: French_Fabrice Go to Quoted Post
Hello Friends,

I'm in the process of disassembling my layout "Trossingen", made with K tracks.

Apart from the fact it's a long process, I'm facing 2 problems with the ballasted tracks :
-on some tracks, some pieces of remaining ballast adhere strongly to the track (I've certainly put too much glueBlushing ), and it's really tedious to remove remaining ballast particles from the track with a sharp tool Crying, once the piece of tracks is removed from the layout ... Is there any known effective method (throwing the track away is not an option Glare ) to get rid of these particles in a decent lapse of time ?
-the second problem I'm facing with is rust which has started to appear on the below face of some ballasted tracks; I've spent one full hour with a wire brush inserted in the dremel to clean up adhesive residue and rust to only 4 pieces of track...I'll be still busy cleaning the tracks by Christmas Scared ! So, same question : Is there a known effective method to remove adhesive residue, and more important regarding the rust, how do you proceed to remove it: 1) Clean with a wire brush ?, 2) put anti-rust product ? 3) repaint the below face with metal paint ?

Thanks for your advices to a "cleaner apprentice"Smile

Cheers
Fabrice


Use hot water and dish liquid.



I forgot to write also tooth brush and brush on the ballast by use hot water and so on...

H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
Offline French_Fabrice  
#11 Posted : 16 April 2013 20:43:23(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,489
Location: Lyon, France
Hi all,

Many thanks for your replies...

I've finally used the simpler method i.e. hot water in my scenic sprayer, and it's now really easy to remove the tracks and the ballast. Immediately after, I've dried the tracks with a hair-dryer. So results look good.

Next step is to deal with rust...For that, I've purchased some diluted phosphoric acid and black paint for metal...

Thanks again,

Cheers
Fabrice
Offline cookee_nz  
#12 Posted : 16 April 2013 22:13:02(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,992
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Originally Posted by: French_Fabrice Go to Quoted Post
Hi all,

Many thanks for your replies...

I've finally used the simpler method i.e. hot water in my scenic sprayer, and it's now really easy to remove the tracks and the ballast. Immediately after, I've dried the tracks with a hair-dryer. So results look good.

Next step is to deal with rust...For that, I've purchased some diluted phosphoric acid and black paint for metal...

Thanks again,

Cheers
Fabrice


Fabrice, one other option to consider instead of black paint, is to use 'Gun Blue' - although called 'blue', it largely comes out black and only really has a blue tinge in certain light.

I used that to restore my K-track turnout covers etc - see my own results here.... http://www.marklin-users.net/cookee_nz/gbmc/displaylayouts/0923

In your case, if you are only talking about the underside then it won't be seen anyway so perhaps in your case a rust-retarding black paint might actually be better but at least this is an option, and if your turnout covers are looking shabby you know what to do. Of course keeping the dust off and dry is preferable.

Cheers

Steve
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
Offline French_Fabrice  
#13 Posted : 16 April 2013 22:25:53(UTC)
French_Fabrice

France   
Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,489
Location: Lyon, France
Originally Posted by: cookee_nz Go to Quoted Post
...
Fabrice, one other option to consider instead of black paint, is to use 'Gun Blue' - although called 'blue', it largely comes out black and only really has a blue tinge in certain light.

I used that to restore my K-track turnout covers etc - see my own results here.... http://www.marklin-users.net/cookee_nz/gbmc/displaylayouts/0923

In your case, if you are only talking about the underside then it won't be seen anyway so perhaps in your case a rust-retarding black paint might actually be better but at least this is an option, and if your turnout covers are looking shabby you know what to do. Of course keeping the dust off and dry is preferable.

Cheers

Steve


Very useful tip, Steve !ThumpUp
Thank you!
...I'm going to consider restoring now some old 2100 series tracks & turnouts

Cheers
Fabrice
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