That's a feature, not a bug - when you use the IR controller from the starter set.
I think this is the worst starter set controller they have.

Sometimes the DCM locos have contact problems between brushes and collector. I guess your yellow loco had that problem. Experienced Märklin users can fix it themselves. Bad luck if that happens with your first Märklin loco.

Hiya Baggio,

As I'm one for the old fashioned analog Märklin material which you can pull out of a stored box 60 or more years later and never fails to run like a nose, as I have very few clues about the more recent digital trains this company has manufactured (other members here will set you straight on this issue...), and as I also collect all kinds of other AC/DC stuff in various scales like Walthers, Athearn, AHC/IHC, Mehano, Penn Line, Mantua, Lionel, (not to mention SMCF or VB), etc ... my only advice is:

Just put one and one together; does your train setup fit your expectations (or not), what is needed so it does fit your expectations, and most importantly, have fun doing it ... ^^ ?

Märklin surely has an undisputed historic reputation for robust quality over all other brands, just depends what other quality you compare it with, and within which time framework you do so... its all very relative ^^ !

Yum

Baggio,

Let me check to see if I have some spare pantos.

As far as the accident, were you running with the pantos up at the time? These days, I usually run them with the pantos down, even if it is not prototypical.

As far as the controller, I guess that it goes inactive to save battery power. If you have the chance to upgrade to a Mobile Station, it would probably be a better choice. Some dealers may have this on sale as we speak, either in box or from an opened start set.

The Hobby collection is a good way to start, but the regular models are definitely higher quality. I am sure that they will convince you that Maerklin is worth it.

Regards

Mike C

Marklin is not everybody's cup of tea. Many people find their older models crude and unconvincing, whereas others find the newer models flimsy and lacking in power.

Personally, I love the older models, the not so old models, and the newer models, all for different reasons. You can't judge all models made over a span of 60 years by the same standards. Technology has moved on in totally unforeseen ways during that time, and modeller's expectations in terms of fidelity to the prototype have also skyrocketed.

Many people who are used to the good old chunky models of the '50s and '60s just don't get the latest models, and yet their beauty and accurate detailing is on a totally different plane. Of course this means they are more fiddly and delicate. It is easy to damage them if not handled with due care and attention. I recommend a thorough examination of the instruction manual before taking one apart.

In short, go with what you like! If you don't enjoy the newer models stick to getting oldies off ebay. There are plenty to go around!

Thanks again to all that replied and will reply.

I found a way to change my avatar and now I have posted a picture of the loco I am hoping to buy in Italy, no 3035.

Now THAT is a good looking robust loco!

I agree. That is the only thing in the looks that is not very good. The big loco I bought does have clear plastic windows and they make the loco look sharp. Thanks.

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Edited by user 18 March 2014 06:11:49(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Hello, Everyone:

I have decided I am going to "play the field" for a while. I do feel as if I am "cheating" on a lover, but Marklin seems to have taken me for granted, so I want to see what other makers offer. EXCEPT, of curse, for the nostalgia loco of 1961 as depicted in my new avatar. I am going to go on a date with Lima and maybe Rivarossi. I like "fast" girls... :-)

As for repairing the loco myself, sorry, THAT is something I doubt I can do. The closest I have come to is changing the coupler on a Walthers wagon so I can run it with a Marklin train. It was actually fun to do.

HAPPY EASTER EVERYONE!!!

Happy Easter!

I have only two Märklin 36XXX series locos at the moment and have to say that these two are very robust and good ones. The first one is Märklin 36159 Insider 1996 brown digital Crocodile. Well, it is as robust as older 3015 or CCS 800, but it has that digital decoder from that time and got therefore model number starting 36XXX. The other one is an Märklin BR 81 005 steamer from starter set 29539. It is listed by Koll's as 36320.30 as it is from starter set. It runs perfectly and has robust metal body.

Märklin locos from 1940-1980 (metal bodied ones) are very robust and almost unbreakable. That 3035 is a very beatiful loco and I even like those windows as it was the style of that time period. The grey color looks nice with those two brown ones. I have two of these 3035.1 versions from around 1960-1962. The only parts that You should be careful with when handling this loco is pantos, metal "rails" near lamps and the paint. Dont touch it with hands as the paint can go easily to bad condition when fet from fingers touches the paint.

The older Märklin locos were made for last to the grandfather, father, son and son's son , but the newer more detailed versions must be handled more carefully. They are designed more for display cases and seldom running if one wants to have it in operational condition after say 50 years. But here the "key" is to buy more locos to get the running hours more evenly stabilized between many locos .

I like the older locos from the end of 1940's =>, but also the newer very detailed ones. Both from different reasons. I think that maybe in the future I will buy more the older locos.

I have one loco from 1940's, five from 1950's, maybe around 20-30 from 1960's, many from 1970-1980's and much more from 1990 => 2013. I like all of them, but from different reasons. Some 1960's locos had great details for their time (diesels 3064, 3065, 3069 and 3072 for example). But they are plastic body locos.

Most undrestructable pantos are type 5, 6 and 7 from start of 1950 to 1960 or 1970's in some models. Earlier type 4 and 4.1 are easily damaged.

Regards,
Janne

Hello again:

Ray was asking about my first name, no problem. It's Silvano. Best regards to all.

I should have asked: Can I use a non-Marklin loco with a Marklin digital controller, such as the remote-controller type in my starter set?

Thanks.

It should work fine with ESU decoders.

It will also work with other MM decoders, but will not be able to change the address.

So when buying e.g. Piko locos, you should ask the seller to set one of the four addresses supported by the IR thingy (24, 60, 72, 78).

No problem changing addresses using e.g. an MS2.

Piko always uses Uhlenbrock decoders. Brawa locos should have ESU decoders.
With Roco or Fleischmann you never know in advance (they used Zimo, Uhlenbrock, ESU, Lenz, ...).

What exactly are you writing about remote controler?
Do you mean Marklins old IR-controler number 6070 and 6071...?

I have done all the improvements I described to my E424. Unluckily, I could't find the photos any more, but I also have a video of it, pulling a consist of FS, ÖBB and FS coaches:




I have done the same improvements to a few other Märklin locos too: the SNCF BB 9200 (3038), the red version from the "Le Capitole" set, or the ÖBB Rh 1141.

Regards,
Florian

Okey...is there any info about this remote controler to take look at it?

I posted it in Baggio's other thread, but here is the link for the instruction for the new IR controller: http://medienpdb.maerkli...les/1/pdf/29411_tech.pdf
Open In New Window to view or cut and paste the link

MC

Hi All,

If M can produce a new Lok with an axle that doesn't turn, as the rear bogie one on my new BR23.008 does not, I have to wonder also

I bought three new 60055 transformers and all three failed to function after a short circuit - a rather normal occurence when the train comes off the track. I took them apart (since shipping to Marklin was out of the question), and they were made in China. I replaced the bad circuit protector with an external fuse from Radio Shack to get them working again. I would say they quality is a LOT lower on the transformers. Especially when they were still charging the "Made in Germany" price of 129 dollars for one!!!

Same thing with my starter set version of the loco; that combined with the additon of an extra tank thing (not sure what it is called!) in front of the bogie beneath the buffers stopped mine from turning when going around corners... doesn't the train use them as a ground??

Some of my M track pieces have loose centre rails.
Unbreakable? My M track was played with a lot and many rails are bent at the rail joiners, so it takes a long time to tweak this joiners to get almost reliable operation.
I prefer C track as it comes without rail joiners (but get tracks from 2002 or later).

If it wasn't digital, I may not have gotten back to the MRR hobby.
I appreciate detailed rolling stock, even though it requires more care.

Quality problems are not necessarily coming with digital railways. Some locos are over oiled, some are not oiled at all, some arrive without brushes, and many other problems more.
And a few years ago they added a language barrier with H0 loco design in Göppingen and loco assembly in Győr.
For about a decade now they try to reduce costs - cheaper motors, cheaper decoders, cheaper workforce, cheaper sub-contractors (which e.g. brought zinc pest to the digital age with Köf II, Seetal-Krokodil, and US freight cars).