Joined: 22/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 365
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Hi all, As I am going to set up some basic automated train control, I was looking at the Marklin Loco Magnets #7557. These are a set of three, and are quite expensive. I searched the Web, and came across two suppliers, http://apexmagnets.com/i...info&products_id=387https://www.hkcm.de/prod...ducts_id=60284&dna=3The magnets from hkcm.de are same dimensions as the Marklin #7557, @ 1.74 EUR each The Apex magnets are slightly smaller but only 1.59mm thick. I bought these as they are the cheapest @ $9.99 USD for a pack of 20. These are very strong magnets, so not sure if they are stronger than the Marklin ones. I will report on there use once I have tested them. Has any one else tried an alternative to the Marklin magnets? Cheers, Brian. |
Brian Yaasan's Desktop Station/Railuino & Marklin MS2, DB Era III/IV Diesel & Steam, ESU Loksound/Lokpilot & Lokprogrammer, Marklin mSD, Tam Valley Depot Octopus III Servo Controller. |
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Joined: 12/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,448 Location: Wellington, New_Zealand
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Brian, There are quite a few of the Wgtn club members who have access to and have used alternates. |
Peter
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by: clapcott  Brian, There are quite a few of the Wgtn club members who have access to and have used alternates. I'm using some magnets I got from the local 2$ shop. They fit underneath freight cars and will also fit in between the wheel axles on the bogie of a 28cm coach. They don't fit underneath some railcars that have a low slung body. For those I use the Marklin magnets which are a lot slimmer. I usually attach the magnets with some hot glue.
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Joined: 12/02/2010(UTC) Posts: 169 Location: Pretoria, South Africa
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Brian,
I bought a selection of magnets from my local electronic store, as well as having recovered them from fridge magnets, kids toys etc. This gives me a range of "strengths" To avoid glue, I always couple one of my metal box cars directly behind my loco and position the magnet accordingly on this box car, sometimes using metal washers to achieve the correct level of the magnet.
I experiment a lot with the magnets to achieve the right result, all my reed switches are "Left Handed" i.e. they are only triggered by magnets on the left hand side of the car.
Regards
Leon
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Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 526 Location: Salisbury
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while on the subject of magnets, has anyone found a viable alternative to the Marklin reed switch? Alan
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Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,597 Location: Beverly, MA
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by: aos  while on the subject of magnets, has anyone found a viable alternative to the Marklin reed switch? Alan Sure, Viessmann sell a reed switch similar to the Marklin one. All they are is a standard reed switch with a plastic cover over them. I've also used reed switches from local electronics suppliers - see the link Kevin posted. The only thing with them is that you can only bend the pigtails once, so make sure you bend it in the right place. Try to bend the pigtail again, and you will break the glass part of the switch.
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Joined: 22/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 365
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Hi all,
I received my magnets from Apexmagnets. They are perfect as loco magnets. I mounted them using a double sided tape with the sponge backing. I got some reed switches from Jaycar, and just set up one block for now using existing home made breaking modules already running under manual control. It works great. Now my signals in that block operate prototypicaly. The reed switches activate reliably at any speed. So far with just the one block automated, I can run two loco's stopping and starting each other. No more tail enders. I will set up another block tomorrow.
Brian. |
Brian Yaasan's Desktop Station/Railuino & Marklin MS2, DB Era III/IV Diesel & Steam, ESU Loksound/Lokpilot & Lokprogrammer, Marklin mSD, Tam Valley Depot Octopus III Servo Controller. |
 1 user liked this useful post by Lollo
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Joined: 12/04/2002(UTC) Posts: 429 Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
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Be aware that the magnet could have an unwanted side effect of magnetising some turnout rails and they could "stick" in the wrong position with less than ideal outcomes. I had this using the strong magnets and reed switches from Jaycar on M track, may not be such an issue with C or K. |
Cheers
Stuart New Zealand
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Joined: 22/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 365
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Originally Posted by: hqstu  Be aware that the magnet could have an unwanted side effect of magnetising some turnout rails and they could "stick" in the wrong position with less than ideal outcomes. I had this using the strong magnets and reed switches from Jaycar on M track, may not be such an issue with C or K. The position is critical as far as height goes. The magnets can be in the middle of the loco, but not too close to the track, as I have found out. Steam loco's have plenty of clearance, it is the diesels that were the problem, until I mounted them in a more suitable area with more clearance. So far no problems getting stuck. I put the reed switches in for the second block, and all works perfectly. So far 3 trains running, stopping & starting automatically. Cheers, Brian. |
Brian Yaasan's Desktop Station/Railuino & Marklin MS2, DB Era III/IV Diesel & Steam, ESU Loksound/Lokpilot & Lokprogrammer, Marklin mSD, Tam Valley Depot Octopus III Servo Controller. |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by: hqstu  Be aware that the magnet could have an unwanted side effect of magnetising some turnout rails and they could "stick" in the wrong position with less than ideal outcomes. I had this using the strong magnets and reed switches from Jaycar on M track, may not be such an issue with C or K. Stu is right, I've had this happen on the M track part of my layout. I haven't got around to wiring up the C track part of the layout with reeds as yet, so I don't know what will happen with C track.
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Joined: 22/06/2009(UTC) Posts: 365
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Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz  Originally Posted by: hqstu  Be aware that the magnet could have an unwanted side effect of magnetising some turnout rails and they could "stick" in the wrong position with less than ideal outcomes. I had this using the strong magnets and reed switches from Jaycar on M track, may not be such an issue with C or K. Stu is right, I've had this happen on the M track part of my layout. I haven't got around to wiring up the C track part of the layout with reeds as yet, so I don't know what will happen with C track. Hi Bigd, I am using C track. A BR86 & a V160 both got stuck on points due to the magnet too close. The V160 I could re-mount the magnet with more clearance, but the BR86 does have much room else where. Might have to have a wagon with a magnet. Apart from that no other problems. The magnets I am using are quite strong, so they don't need to pass over the reed switch with exact alignment. Cheers, Brian. |
Brian Yaasan's Desktop Station/Railuino & Marklin MS2, DB Era III/IV Diesel & Steam, ESU Loksound/Lokpilot & Lokprogrammer, Marklin mSD, Tam Valley Depot Octopus III Servo Controller. |
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Joined: 15/08/2012(UTC) Posts: 234 Location: Perth, Western Australia.
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Gents, back in the "old days" I used to service audio equipment and degaussing tape heads was part of that service. Essentially the audio tape heads would become magnetised and lose some of their bandwidth. I have a hand wand which is connected to the mains supply which emits an alternating magnetic field at the tip. This was then placed next to the head and that field destroyed any residual magnetic effects within the head. These wands may still be available to correct your magnetised point problems.
Regards.....Chook.
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by: Chook  These wands may still be available to correct your magnetised point problems. Hmmm, must see if my demagnetiser still works!
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Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,291 Location: Port Moody, BC
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Has anyone had a problem with the loco magnets pulling up the points on the older style K turnouts with pre-attached solenoids? I am finding that several of these turnout points will lift up towards the magnet and generally will either cause the locomotive to be stuck and spinning or cause a short. I have now repositioned a number of my magnets so that the wheels will hold the points down as the magnet crosses the point, but that is obviously only a one-way solution.
I do not have this problem with the newer style K turnouts with the detachable solenoids or C track turnouts.
Any suggestions other than a weaker magnet which I have already tried with no success at the reed switches?
Cheers Peter
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Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC) Posts: 186 Location: CALIFORNIA, Irvine
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All:
Not sure if related to larger scales, but I have access to the following reed magnets and switch, official Marklin products brand new from dealer stock: Marklin 7555 Contact Reed Switch for Track (4 available) Marklin 7556 Magnet for Locomotives, Package of 6 (low clearance) (3 available) Marklin 7557 Magnet for Locomotives, Package of 3 (high clearance) (4 available) Marklin 7558 Magnet for Rolling Stock (3 available) |
Frank Daniels Owner - z.scale.hobo A Noch "Top Dealer" Marklin Dealer and Z Locomotive Service Irvine, California, USA www.zscalehobo.com |
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