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Do you use/have catenary on your layout. - Poll
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river6109
#51
Posted :
13 February 2013 03:04:39(UTC)
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,876
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
thanks for the topic,
Running digital locos with power coming from the overheadsystem.
there have been talks about, don't run your digital locos from an overhead powersupply, well I have been running them for donkey years and never had a problem;
Will I damage or can a pantograph being damaged: yes but in most cases repairable all depends on the speed of your locos.
the Sommerfeldt system I'm using is under tension, there is very liitle side movements.
the only problem I'm having as the catanary was set up many years ago for Märklin locos with wide panto wipers, since I've bought Roco locos these wipers are much more narrower (prototypical) and at the same time easier to brake. the locos in questions are from the SBB and ÖBB.
When the catanary is set up [properly, yopu should not ahve any problems with the panot getting caught or running of the wire.
Powering the overhead system is no extra work for me, the wires carry enough current without going into attaching feeders every 3 meters or so, anyone is prepared to use an overheadsystem powered or unpowered has to do a reasonable job to make it work.
Running locos with a powered overehadsystem you will find in some cases, there will be less shorts (tunrouts or double swichtes). you have a dual power system and there can be also advantages when running locos from both power sources, e.g. activating routes etc. etc.
you have less problems with an overheadwire than the middle contacts regarding receiving adequate contact.
Running locos with overheadwires you have to get used to the idea, especially when you wear glasses but after a while you take notice of it and your chance of ripping your panto or wire out of its mouring will be a thing of the past.
One thing you loose is to have free access to your locos and rolling stock but than again you get used to it and you live with it, it may take a bit longer.
There are other benefits you may not have thought of: if you do not have a full digital system, e.g. Mobile unit, Mobile station or delta, you could increase your range from e.g. 10 locos to 20 locos (mobile station) and the same would go for other restricted loco based decoders or systems.
I don't agree with Ray's explanation or somewhat limited complicated demonstration what an overheadsystem does or provide.
everytime you have an option whether it is an overhead system, converting locos to digital, your options are open to personal likes and dislikes as in my recent poll: analiog locos versus digital locos and I think there would be more model train enthusiasts out there to convert locos than errecting a catanary system, costs and other factors.
No doubt some modelers would it discribe it as ugly, unnessesairy, costly and difficult and to some degree a layout from an steam era without catanary looks the part.
When I look at my layout I could not invisage not having a catanary, powered or not powered.
regards.,
John
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river6109
#52
Posted :
13 February 2013 03:10:03(UTC)
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,876
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
putting up catanary over 4 bridges:
as per picture from big daddy, unless you have pylons, you most probably can't secure the wires to your bridges.
you have a few options:
a.) use extended Märklin wires (the ones you can slide into each other.
b.) use a cross span wire and secure it into the bridge structure and connect the wire(s) to it.
John
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Janne75
#53
Posted :
13 February 2013 06:36:34(UTC)
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Joined: 23/03/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2,554
Location: Finland
Originally Posted by: river6109
putting up catanary over 4 bridges:
as per picture from big daddy, unless you have pylons, you most probably can't secure the wires to your bridges.
you have a few options:
a.) use extended Märklin wires (the ones you can slide into each other.
b.) use a cross span wire and secure it into the bridge structure and connect the wire(s) to it.
John
Hello all,
I use Märklin C-track and there is Märklin item 74104 Bridge Mast in Märklin catalog described like this:
"This (should read also is) a metal lattice mast and has a metal hanger arm. A base with a slide-on connection is included. Additional mounting bracket for the Märklin bridge system. Height 100 mm / 3-15/16". 5 pieces to a package."
I think that these masts (or something similar) should be attached somehow to these bridges (in the outside of first bridge and between last bridge and wall) and then have somehow the cross span wires mounted to these and/or bridges. If somebody has experience with these 74104 Bridge Masts I would like to know if the metal hanger arms can be removed and replaced with longer ones? If not, then in my layout with these I could only install catenary for the outer and longer main line and this way I will then do. It looks like these are always mounted somehow in the side of the bridge? and if this is the case, then I can not (I think) install these in the middle bridges 2 and 3 as all my bridges are installed side by side...
.
Good thing is that one main line goes across bridges 1 and 4 (possible to install catenary with 74104 Bridge Masts) and other main line goes across bridges 2 and 3.
If these main lines would go, say from bridges 1 => 3 and 2 => 4 then not possible to install these 74104 for any full main line route.
Cheers,
Janne
Märklin H0 digital layout. I have analog and digital H0 Collection. Rolling stock mostly from era I, II, III and IV. Märklin 1 gauge beginner.
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rrf
#54
Posted :
17 February 2013 12:50:46(UTC)
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Joined: 15/11/2009(UTC)
Posts: 300
Location: Silver Spring, Maryland USA
Hello,
I’m in the final design phase of my permanent layout and am about to start construction. It’s a modular three level system. Modular so it can grow easily and move between rooms. The top level at ~1 meter will be K-track. While in theory hidden, the two lower levels (~1/3 and ~2/3 meters) are designed for viewing and more importantly easy modification to the track layouts. Both will be C track. The bottom level is digital only. The middle level is analog only. The top level is switchable between digital and analog. All three levels are interconnected by helixes.
My final design decision is what to do about centenary. While I consider it mandatory on the top level where I will have scenery, I cannot think of any good reason to have it on the lower hidden levels or the helixes. So I’m extremely interested in people’s experiences with only using centenary on viewable areas.
How do you transition safely from areas with cantenary to sections with no cantenary? I assume there must be some form of transition wire that gently extends or compresses an engine’s pantographs. How long should this be? How shallow an angle is required for this transition?
Thank you in advance for your advice and help.
Rob
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intruder
#55
Posted :
17 February 2013 13:16:42(UTC)
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Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 5,382
Location: Akershus, Norway
I woted for catenarys not powered and run with pantos up.
That is the plan for the visible parts of my layout, which is still in a very early stage of construction.
No catenarys in the tunnel sections and hidden stations.
Best regards Svein, Norway
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Goofy
#56
Posted :
17 February 2013 14:54:31(UTC)
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,286
If i shall use german electric locomotivs i use Sommerfeldt catenary.
With swedish models i prefer Entec catenary...but Entec is queit sensitive catenary models...exactly scale 1:87...!!!
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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Martin T
#57
Posted :
20 February 2013 11:39:35(UTC)
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Joined: 02/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 878
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Hi!
Thank you for an interesting thread about the catenary!
I think I read all of the comments, but couldn't find any talking about making the overhead wires on their own.
My plan is to use Swedish style masts manufactured by JECO and solder the overhead wires on my own.
Why?! I am a too greedy to buy the ready-made sections, because they are sooooo expensive.
My intention is to make it from 0,5mm tin plated copper wire. I will make templates out of 4,0mm and 0,4mm plywood and solder using a normal soldering iron. Theroretically sounds very cheap and easy, but that's before I actually tried...
Anyone has experience on home-made catenarys??
Regards / Martin T
Click your way over to me in Marbrodal in Sweden:
http://www.xn--mrklintg-0zaq.se/index_e.html
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evan.v.giles
#58
Posted :
20 March 2013 11:28:09(UTC)
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Joined: 15/03/2013(UTC)
Posts: 85
Location: South Brisbane, Queensland
Hi everyone;
I have a question??
Do all those who use catenary stagger it slightly along straight stretches as this should aid in keeping the panto clean.
They do it on prototype railways
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RayF
#59
Posted :
20 March 2013 11:41:40(UTC)
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,871
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Yes, I do, though I think it makes little difference. If you use the newer Marklin catenary, or the Viessmann stuff as I do, the catenary wires on curves do not track the centre of the track and you get the "weaving" effect anyway.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Rinus
#60
Posted :
20 March 2013 19:46:54(UTC)
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Joined: 20/02/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,729
Location: Wageningen, The Netherlands
Can we add:
"Catenary masts but no wires, I run with pantos up"
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H0
#61
Posted :
20 March 2013 21:11:02(UTC)
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,462
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Quote:
On straight track, the contact wire is zigzagged slightly to the left and right of centre at each successive support so that the pantograph wears evenly.
Source:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhead_line
The wiper is made of graphite (at least in Germany) and straight catenary would cut deep notches into the centre.
Regards
Tom
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a high level of quality
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, and
absolute precision
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." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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evan.v.giles
#62
Posted :
21 March 2013 09:34:21(UTC)
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Joined: 15/03/2013(UTC)
Posts: 85
Location: South Brisbane, Queensland
Hello everyone;
Thanks to those who replied
As a kid I always wondered why they did that on prototypes until my dad told me why and then it made sense.
And when they started to run very high speed trains they found the single arm pantos melted and went back to using double arm.
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MikeR
#63
Posted :
02 October 2013 20:47:52(UTC)
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Joined: 26/08/2012(UTC)
Posts: 263
Location: Denver
Thank you for this thread on catenary - an excellent reference on this topic.
I am building my layout and have decided to include Viessmann catenary. It will not be powered as I have digital supply to my tracks. I want to operate with the pantographs extended and hope to see some up and down movement in the wipers.
I recently noted that I would need to have catenary in tunnels and parts of the hidden yards due to very tight clearances above the track so I have installed the Viessmann tunnel catenary where necessary. I have also installed short sections of normal catenary where the track will be visible and it will be difficult to install later.
Testing the catenary installed thus far with a Swiss 'Cargo' locomotive it appears that the placement of the normal (non-tunnel) masts and catenary is quite critical. If not installed correctly the narrow Swiss pantograph wipers slip off the catenary and then get caught. I had decided not to screw my C track to my roadbed to try and reduce noise. My roadbed is 9mm plywood covered with a 3mm foam. The foam prevented excessive movement of the track but with the catenary I have decided to screw down the track to prevent any sideways movement and maintain the track to catenary relationship.
I have the following questions:
Is catenary installation quite fiddly? I love the track with catenary as I think it adds another dimension but am wondering if I will be disappointed later with the catenary requiring constant maintenance
It seems to me that the pantograph wipers are not always stable and sometimes tilt - causing an accident. Is this a problem or should I replace the pantograph on problem locos?
Should I limit the maximum distance between masts to ensure that there is sufficient tension in the catenary? I was thinking of no more than 360mm between masts?
Should I install the rest of the catenary before or after scenery? I am concerned that I might damage the catenary while undertaking the scenery.
My layout has progressed slowly and I hope that after my upcoming retirement I will be able to progress faster and will post some pictures.
Mike
Digital - C track with CS2 and Railroad&Co TrainController; feedback using LocoIO via a Locobuffer
Analog - M track with solid centre rail (after C track layout is complete)
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puffin9303
#64
Posted :
06 October 2013 03:41:49(UTC)
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Joined: 17/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 20
Location: Portland, Oregon
Hello,
Bought some masts and wire. Reading and learning. Planning a mixed layout, as my old analog layout was all diesel and steam. Always wanted a krokodile, so I
have
to set up for el ops on some lines/loops. Planning on running my electric locomotives with rail feed and pantographs up.
ulf
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BR01097
#65
Posted :
06 October 2013 04:37:14(UTC)
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Joined: 17/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 228
Location: Denver, Colo. USA
To lower drag, most of the pick-up skis on my electric locomotives have been removed and used on their steam and diesel counterparts. A few advantages of drawing current from the overhead is that practically any type of track can be used, rails in need of cleaning become more apparent, the coaches can remain lighted during signal stops, and the arcing that occasionally occurs mimics the prototype. Set up and maintenance can be a hassle and reaching scenery can be a challenge, but the end result is usually worth it.
____________________________________________________________________________
Collector of Märklin fine-quality trains since 1966.
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#66
Posted :
11 October 2013 00:16:48(UTC)
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Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,422
Location: Montreal, Canada
I had forgotten about this article Tom,
Now finally reading it, and so thankful for the head's up.
I recommend this link to anyone else who likes, or is installing, catenary....
Originally Posted by: H0
[....]
Source:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overhead_line
The wiper is made of graphite (at least in Germany) and straight catenary would cut deep notches into the centre.
And while you are at it, this is worth seeing too.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_railway
- Mark
DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1950-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70.
In single point perspective, where do track lines meet?
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river6109
#67
Posted :
11 October 2013 01:25:49(UTC)
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
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Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
I've been using Sommerfeldt catenary now for over 2 centuries years now and originally started off in 1984 with Märklin catenary.
running electric locos from the overhead system is not simple for several reasons:
a.) in sidings or stations (signal modules) = all wires have to be isolated from the other track or masts.
b.) SBB uses narrow wipers whereas other countries use wider wipers
c.) it takes time to get used to the correct installation
d.) replacing or adding rolling stock or locos onto the track is also more difficult but you get used to it.
e.) pantographs can be severely damaged
using switching tracks I left the track wiper (slider) on the loco but the acceleration and braking delay is activated via the catenary.
last year I started making switching mechanisms for the overhead system, they worked all right in the beginning decided against it after some of them did not function properly. I could introduce them again if I could make a better reliable mechanism.
advantages:
a.) locos run without stopping at dead spots (turnouts)
b.) looks more realistic
c.) you could increase or separate the power supply (track = overhead power)
disadvantages:
there has been this myth around modellers you can't use catenary on a digital layout, my Sommerfeldt catenary and earlier Märklin catenary has never failed or gave any indications of any problems.
adds more costs to the layout but you could reduce the cost by making your own wires.
regards.,
John
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river6109
#68
Posted :
11 October 2013 01:59:16(UTC)
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
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Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: MikeR
Thank you for this thread on catenary - an excellent reference on this topic.
I am building my layout and have decided to include Viessmann catenary. It will not be powered as I have digital supply to my tracks. I want to operate with the pantographs extended and hope to see some up and down movement in the wipers.
I recently noted that I would need to have catenary in tunnels and parts of the hidden yards due to very tight clearances above the track so I have installed the Viessmann tunnel catenary where necessary. I have also installed short sections of normal catenary where the track will be visible and it will be difficult to install later.
Testing the catenary installed thus far with a Swiss 'Cargo' locomotive it appears that the placement of the normal (non-tunnel) masts and catenary is quite critical. If not installed correctly the narrow Swiss pantograph wipers slip off the catenary and then get caught. I had decided not to screw my C track to my roadbed to try and reduce noise. My roadbed is 9mm plywood covered with a 3mm foam. The foam prevented excessive movement of the track but with the catenary I have decided to screw down the track to prevent any sideways movement and maintain the track to catenary relationship.
I have the following questions:
Is catenary installation quite fiddly? I love the track with catenary as I think it adds another dimension but am wondering if I will be disappointed later with the catenary requiring constant maintenance
It seems to me that the pantograph wipers are not always stable and sometimes tilt - causing an accident. Is this a problem or should I replace the pantograph on problem locos?
Should I limit the maximum distance between masts to ensure that there is sufficient tension in the catenary? I was thinking of no more than 360mm between masts?
Should I install the rest of the catenary before or after scenery? I am concerned that I might damage the catenary while undertaking the scenery.
My layout has progressed slowly and I hope that after my upcoming retirement I will be able to progress faster and will post some pictures.
you've made some valid points and have raised some important unanswered questions.
Maintenance on an overhead system is more or less not existing compared with middle contacts from the track,.
It would be advisable to add the catenary before the scenery but it depends which part of the scenery. for instance tunnels or you build a hill or mountain, after you've covered the mountain it will be very hard to build or construct an overhead system under it.
station platforms should be erected before hand, scenery next to the line should or could be done before hand, its up to you which way you prefer before or after so long it doesn't interfere with the construction either way = scenery = catenary.
on straight lines I use masts every 500 mm and a good overhead system should have tension to avoid any movement of the wire sideways.
Sommerfeldt has a few gadgets to determine where the mast or wire and wire supports should be placed and soldered and these limits are crucial to erect a solid overhead system.
SBB locos use a narrow wiper and some of the Austrian locos as well, I would recommend use your loco with a narrow wiper to see if the wiper is within the limits.
plastic masts can not take any tension necessary and the construction of an overhead system should be as close as the prototype.
if you have signal modules with acceleration and braking sections all wires have to be isolated from the adjoining wire including traversing masts.
if you use switching track leave the slider under the locomotive to be able to activate other routes or solenoids.
signal modules with braking and acceleration sections:
you have to isolate the braking and acceleration mode section and this depends if you use 1 or 2 pantographs (usually it is one) and also separate the wire at the other end (isolate it)
if you use a double or triple consist I would suggest to use electrical couplings, remove the slider from the locos behind the first loco and set the power connection to track. this way you have the first loco getting power from the overhead, activating the switching track with the wiper and the remaining locos are powered as slaves through the ekelectrical coupling (1 wire = red).
Having a loco at the end of a freight train is more difficult or more expensive. how do you get power to the end loco without interfering with
a.) late activation of the acceleration and braking mode section. I can be done again by a single contact electrical coupling.
passenger trains with a trailing loco are easier to achieve as all my passenger carriages have a 4 pin electrical coupling and therefore a red wire can go through the whole train and be connected to the end loco(s).
for some this set up could be to difficult or the locos are available aren't enough to a.) change them over to be able to run as a consist.
My indication is merely it can be done but at an other cost being added (electrical couplings)
regards.,
John
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