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Offline MarcinUK  
#1 Posted : 01 February 2013 20:35:55(UTC)
MarcinUK

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: NI
Hello gents,

Here is the first one of my noob questions... I have bought a couple of turnout mechanisms (74492) and the control box (72752). I also have a the 70s starter set (29710) with a Mobile Station and power supply box.
I thought I would connect the turnout control to the track supply but clearly there is a problem since the turnout lead is 4-pin square plug and the other one on the track supply is a 10-pin D connector.

So I guess there is another relay box to connect the two - is it the omnipresent k83? Also how does it scale if I want to have 4 and more turnouts later on? I got the Marklin book on running and controlling trains but I find it confusing - they show additional relay switches (?) in schematics with multiple turnouts. Also there is a notion of some kind of power supply booster in case multiple turnouts are installed.

/confused

I'd appreciate some kind of parts breakdown for dummies - 1 x lead nr XYZ, 2 x switches nr YZX, 1 x connecting box nr ZXY

Thanks a million!

Marcin
Offline clapcott  
#2 Posted : 01 February 2013 22:04:58(UTC)
clapcott

New Zealand   
Joined: 12/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,448
Location: Wellington, New_Zealand
Hi Marcin,

The 74492 and 72752 are "packaged" for the MyWorld(Hobby) range.
refer the latest MyWorld Catalogue (http://mediencms.maerklin.de/media.php/de/produkte/myworld/Maerklin_myworld_2013_DE.pdf) page 80

The only difference between the 74492 and 74491(74490) is that the latter comes with a connector on the end of the cable specifically for use with the 72752.

The 72752 (and its sister 72751) have the common 4 pin connector architect-ed for getting its feed from the MyWord(Hobby) feeder track (#924089) .
This supply provides
- Ground
- TrackFeed (for use with a Signals attendand "dead section")
- -ev supply for the LEDs in the signal going one aspect
- +ev supply for the LEDs in the signal going the other aspect
NOTE: for those that the care, the +ev and -ev are NOT DC - they are simply the "clipped" digital

When needed for your turnouts, the buttons steal the +ev and the -ev to get the equivalent 16V approx

Assuming you are not looking to get a MyWorld(Hobby) set with its adapter , Two options arise
- feed the track power Brown/Red into the +ev(orange) / -ev(black) wires
- use a separate transformer (standard Marklin 16VAC)

If you cut the short 4 pin to 4 pin connector in halve it should be fairly easy to connect the wires.
If opting for the easy Red/Brown feed now, I would still recommend looking to remove this train on the track power as your layout grows by having the accessories powered of a separate transformer/powersupply

Closing note : a 6083x would certainly be applicable if you are looking to utilise digital in the future , however the more appropriate Analogue option would have been the 72720 (along with a seperate transformer) - or the 72710 ehich has indicators
If you hadn't already purchased the 72752 I would generally recommend evaluating the the 6083x for digital expansion infrastructure



The attached diagram is a wiring schematic of the MyWorld(Hobby) Accessory control boxes. The boxes include LED indicators that are not shown
clapcott attached the following image(s):
MWart_DiagSch.png
Peter
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Offline MarcinUK  
#3 Posted : 02 February 2013 12:41:45(UTC)
MarcinUK

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: NI
Thank you, Clapcott - it is much appreciated. Your reply leads to more question, though:

- yes, I wanted to go digital all the way but assumed, wrongly, that the 72752 was a part of it which plugged into the MS. Now I see that it will require some fiddling with soldering iron which I could do, albeit would rather avoid. Also the Gleisbox (924089) is not easily source-able so I reckon I will pass on that.

1. right, so if I want to have a digital control of these turnouts' motors, I take it will need one decoder for each turnout as shown on page 73, figs. 04/05
2. here is the last-metre problem ;) - to what do I hook up the red lead coming off the green decoder? I assume it plugs into something before going to the MS?
3. once it is connected to the MS, I should be able to pop them left or right from MS panel - I saw it on some illustration in a catalogue
3. can my 74492s be still used or did I b***er it up by buying the wrong model? Can its control cable be trimmed to plug into the decoder?

Cheers!

Marcin
Offline MarcinUK  
#4 Posted : 12 February 2013 16:21:57(UTC)
MarcinUK

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: NI
Hi everyone,

I know I'm be asking about the absolute basics but your input will be much appreciated to help me a wee bit.

Since my last post I have returned my turnout box 72752 and am looking at buying the right set of bits and pieces this time to make my turnouts work from the Mobile Station (new one).

So the questions are:

1. If I want to control two turnouts from the MS, am I assuming correctly I will need one mechanism (74491) and one decoder (74461) per turnout?

2. Is there anything else I will need to make such combo work? E.g. those wee splitter strips, the k83 which, to be frank, I have no idea what it does in the scheme of things given the 74461 is a decoder itself.

3. With two such sets (74491 + 74461) connected, will my power supply be OK with it or do I need to get a booster of sorts?

4. Any comments on the 74445 set - is it better/worse off to buy the 74491 and 74461 separately and don't bother about the small rotating indicator? Somewhere on the forum I saw the 74445 described as unreliable.

5. If I keep adding such turnout sets, at which point a booster is required - 3, 4, 6 more of them?

6. Finally, I saw a thread on the new k84 box - as you probably realised by now, I don't have a clear idea of what its predecessor does but if I need it and buy it and then the 84 comes out in autumn 2013, will this impact my turnouts in any way?

I know - it is a nebula of semi-random questions but since I could not find some kind of "Marklin for dummies" / Wiki that would say "if you want to have Y number of digitally-controlled turnouts you will need to buy Z x A, B and C to make it work", I'm afraid I have to bother you Blushing

Thank you very much!

Marcin

Offline kbvrod  
#5 Posted : 12 February 2013 19:09:40(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi all,

Quote:
So I guess there is another relay box to connect the two - is it the omnipresent k83? Also how does it scale if I want to have 4 and more turnouts later on?


Marcin,I can't not comment on the hook-up/boxes/etc. on your set up.The K83 is a decoder that handle 4 turnouts/motors for a unit that is (usually) placed under the layout and connected with plugs.Also Viessmann makes a much better version of the K83.

Dr D
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Offline RayF  
#6 Posted : 12 February 2013 19:25:45(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,870
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Hi Marcin,

If you use the 74491 and 74461 mounted in the turnouts you have no need of a K83. A K83 is needed if you don't have the 74461 decoder, and you can then supply four 74491s from each k83.

The three way turnout cannot be fitted with the 74461, as it actually uses two 74491 mechanisms, so if you wanted a three way turnout you would use half of a k83 to feed it.

A k84 is for digitally switching accessories that need a power on/off instead of a momentary pulse like a solenoid. You would use it for, for example, street lights, rotating signs, windmills, etc.

From wikipedia:

Märklin k83:

The Märklin k83 is one of the components of the Märklin Digital system for controlling model trains.

The Märklin k83 module allows 4 electromagnetic articles to be switched to either 'red' or 'green'. These are used for setting turnouts, signals etc.

The address of each module is set by a DIP switch inside the housing.

The current that is produced is momentary—just long enough to switch the electromagnet in the item from one state to the other. Permanent switching of a continuous current is handled by a separate module—the Märklin-60840 or k84.

Märklin k84

The Märklin k84 is one of the components of the Märklin Digital system for controlling model trains.

The Märklin k84 module is essentially 4 digital relays, each with 2 mutually-exclusive outputs. These modules are used for switching current on and off. The address of each module is set by a DIP switch inside the housing.

The current that is produced is continuous. Momentary switching for the purposes of switching electromagnetic devices is handled by a separate module—the Märklin-60830 or k83.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline kbvrod  
#7 Posted : 12 February 2013 20:38:36(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi all,

Quote:
The Märklin k83 is one of the components of the Märklin Digital system for controlling model trains.



Semi-true.It does not control the train/lok only the direction of said train.

Dr D
Offline MarcinUK  
#8 Posted : 12 February 2013 20:53:29(UTC)
MarcinUK

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2013(UTC)
Posts: 11
Location: NI
Thanks Dr D and Ray - it starts to make sense. So am I right assuming that a k83 is a "shared resource" in case where one has multiple turnouts / lights and doesn't want to/cannot supply each with its own 74461 (or equivalent)?

In my, admittedly, very basic setup when I want to start with two basic turnouts I just need to plug them in, select the two addresses and voila? No need for power booster and other auxiliaries yet? And what about the 74445 - does it make sense to get it or rather individual bits?

Cheers!
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by MarcinUK
Offline kbvrod  
#9 Posted : 12 February 2013 21:09:36(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Marcin,all,



Thank Ray ! BigGrin

>So am I right assuming that a k83 is a "shared resource" in case where one has multiple turnouts / lights and doesn't want to/cannot supply each with its own 74461 (or equivalent)? <

A K83 has 4 inputs/outputs to control 4 motors(the thingies that switch the switches/points Smile ) You still need a motor/drive to move the points and blades.The K83 (or I shall suggest the Viessmann 5211,seperate power supply) and any turnout lights or ANY lighting can be supplied with another power source.

>In my, admittedly, very basic setup when I want to start with two basic turnouts I just need to plug them in, select the two addresses and voila? No need for power booster and other auxiliaries yet? And what about the 74445 - does it make sense to get it or rather individual bits?<

Test it out lad,test it.

Dr D
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Offline dave55uk  
#10 Posted : 15 November 2024 13:48:49(UTC)
dave55uk

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/09/2023(UTC)
Posts: 103
Location: Ely, England
Originally Posted by: clapcott Go to Quoted Post


...

The 72752 (and its sister 72751) have the common 4 pin connector architect-ed for getting its feed from the MyWord(Hobby) feeder track (#924089) .
This supply provides
- Ground
- TrackFeed (for use with a Signals attendand "dead section")
- -ev supply for the LEDs in the signal going one aspect
- +ev supply for the LEDs in the signal going the other aspect
NOTE: for those that the care, the +ev and -ev are NOT DC - they are simply the "clipped" digital

When needed for your turnouts, the buttons steal the +ev and the -ev to get the equivalent 16V approx

Assuming you are not looking to get a MyWorld(Hobby) set with its adapter , Two options arise
- feed the track power Brown/Red into the +ev(orange) / -ev(black) wires
- use a separate transformer (standard Marklin 16VAC)

If you cut the short 4 pin to 4 pin connector in halve it should be fairly easy to connect the wires.
If opting for the easy Red/Brown feed now, I would still recommend looking to remove this train on the track power as your layout grows by having the accessories powered of a separate transformer/powersupply

...



This was exactly what I was just looking for.

So I cut the short cable as you suggested, joined the red & brown to the orange & black
and BOTH lights lit up - in the red position the red on the signal was slightly brighter and
in the green position the green was slightly brighter.

Any further suggestions please?
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