Joined: 27/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 202 Location: Johannesburg
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Hi folks
I have some old M track electric points (various models) which I would like to service\fix up.
I have connected them up to the check that they still work electrically and most of them do, the others will become manual points for my sons to play with.
Most require springs and lights, which should be easy to sort out.
Some of them are a little 'stiff', that moving thing, the frog? Doesn't change position freely, some of them it is due to rust and others seem to have a 'gunk' build up. Is there something specific I could use to oil\lubricate the points?
In SA we have a product called Q20, not sure if it is an international product ("Q20’s unique penetrating power makes it ideal as a release agent and light duty lubricant for use in the home, garage and workshop.") , if anyone has experience of this, would it be wise to use it to clean up the points?
If anyone has an exploded diagram of M track electric points, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance for any and all assitance.
Angus
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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This is how I cleaned my turnouts for M track:
1. Remove the cover underneath.
2. Spray the sticky parts (track side only) with some WD-40 and let it soak for a little bit.
3. Hold the turnout upside/down and carefully clean the track side with warm soap water and a brush.
4. Immediately after use an air compressor to blow the track dry (or alternative an air duster can).
5. Use an good quality electrical cleaner spray (which is safe for plastic) and clean solenoids and all mechanical parts underneath.
6. Wet a rag with WD-40 and coat the entire turnout in this protective lubricant.
7. Rag with alcohol to clean topside of track and studs. If in bad shape I use a cleaning block from Roco (not as harsh as sandpaper) to remove rust.
8. Replace the spring (they are fairly cheap and the best investment you can do in case you are building a permanent layout).
I sometimes had problem with the cover from the lantern restricting the movement of the turnout arm underneath and even sometimes creating a shortcut!
Mine became nice and shiny afterwards, but make sure you use some alcohol to clean track and studs in the end, else it may be like train ice skating!
Brgs - Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
 1 user liked this useful post by Danlake
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Joined: 27/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,478 Location: Holland
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Hi Angus, I have given 10 60 years old 3600 turnouts a thorough service job. My experience is that if the point does not switch smoothly, this is mostly caused by the friction between the lantern and the grey plastic cover. Also complete cleaning the inside of the points, greatly improved their operation. I have used a small drop of Faller oil. But I'm not 100% sure if that was a wise thing to do Theoretical on the long term (many years) that oil maybe can cause dust sticking on the movable parts. Marco   |
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 1 user liked this useful post by kweekalot
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Joined: 27/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 202 Location: Johannesburg
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Awesome, thanks Lasse and Marco for your replies.
I will go give it a go tonight on one of the turnouts and see how I manage.
(Supposed to be packing tonight to go away for the weekend but I'm sure I can fit in a bit of Train time :))
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Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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Originally Posted by: Angus  Awesome, thanks Lasse and Marco for your replies.
I will go give it a go tonight on one of the turnouts and see how I manage.
(Supposed to be packing tonight to go away for the weekend but I'm sure I can fit in a bit of Train time :)) jeje...we always do, got t to catch a plane later...but i will not go before i left precisely a turnout operative... |
 German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
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Joined: 23/08/2004(UTC) Posts: 764 Location: Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk
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hi, What is the part number for the M track point springs?
One of the most annoying things is when a point which has previously worked well, suddenly causing derailments of the leading bogie wheels. It can be very difficult to pin down a cause but most often,even if the track seems to pivot OK,it is stiffness at the pivot which causes the problem rather than misalignment of the rails. Presumably due to build up of dirt. Gentlly freeing the pivot with the flat side of a screwdriver often fixes the problem. Trying to oil a point usually ends in messy disaster,at least in my hands. Yes changing the spring or freeing the lantern is sometimes necessary. If all else fails give up,chuck the point in the spares box, and get a cheap replacement on ebay! |
Regards
Geoff (UK)
marklin HO from the 50's and 60's |
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
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Joined: 27/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 202 Location: Johannesburg
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Hi folks
I got to fiddle with two of the points last night and one is now working 100%, except for requiring a new globe. The other one is still not working quite right even though I have cleaned and made sure everthing is sliding properly by hand. When I connect it up to the electrics I can see it wants to move but isn't quite able to. My thinking is that the piece of metal that connects the globe casing to the spring has been bent and therefore the angle is not correct, with the hand it's easier enough to move but the power probably just isn't enough to overcome the slight change of angle.
I will fiddle some more next week.
Thanks Geoff, had a chuckle, my patience lately doen's last long so the chances of some of them ending in my son's train box are pretty good.
Thanks for the link Lasse.
Angus
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Joined: 27/06/2012(UTC) Posts: 3,478 Location: Holland
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Hi, I remember now that three weeks ago we were also talking about these springs.....were to buy...item number and so on..... See HEREPartnummer is 353080 and the price only a few cents. $ 12,65 for 5 spings is not very reasonable !! Originally Posted by: Angus  ....my patience lately doen's last long so the chances of some of them ending in my son's train box are pretty good.
Well, I'm exactly the opposite I don’t care if it takes me many hours to get it right... I actually like it. Restoring Marklin or Faller buildings is very satisfying. It has a somewhat therapeutic effect on me, stress feelings disappears within seconds. |
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 1 user liked this useful post by kweekalot
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Joined: 27/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 202 Location: Johannesburg
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Yup, I agree with you Marco, the $12.65 price did seem a bit high for me but then having only recently rediscovered my Marklin 'mojo', I haven't bought many spares, so not sure of prices. Now that you mentioned it, I recall that thread too I am going to be contacting some local guys I have bought Marklin track etc. from and see if they can help out. Also give my local dealer a call. Marco, I have patience to a point, I do build plastic models (mostly aircraft, I have even built balsa planes from plans I drew up...) and I agree it does help calm a person down. Unless there is that one part that just won't work the way it is supposed to. I have had a few aircraft taking test flights down the passage Thanks again for all the help everyone.
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 1 user liked this useful post by Angus
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Joined: 10/08/2012(UTC) Posts: 47 Location: melbourne
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Originally Posted by: Angus  Yup, I agree with you Marco, the $12.65 price did seem a bit high for me but then having only recently rediscovered my Marklin 'mojo', I haven't bought many spares, so not sure of prices. Now that you mentioned it, I recall that thread too I am going to be contacting some local guys I have bought Marklin track etc. from and see if they can help out. Also give my local dealer a call. Locally (Australia) $12.65 (plus postage) for 5 is about par. The cheapest place I could find that speaks english was $2 per spring (plus p&h). Went to Kweekalot's site - sure enough CHEAP but was unable to place order to Australia, but will try again as I'm still after 45 springs - and it sure adds up. What I have discovered also is there are TWO SIZES, both numbered 353080. My points vary from 5202, 5221, 5117 in 3rail & stud M-track. I've been told EITHER spring (short or long) will do job, but have people a recommendation ? Should I get 353080 'short' or 353080 'long' for points - or as salespeople tell me - it doesn't it matter (ie. both work) Thanks in advance, Chris g.
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Joined: 10/08/2012(UTC) Posts: 47 Location: melbourne
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Originally Posted by: Danlake  This is how I cleaned my turnouts for M track:
1. Remove the cover underneath. 2. ....
Brgs - Lasse THANK YOU. Appreciated. I'm almost at stage of needing to clean points (very aware many of them need it; currently still trying to get springs) so this was SO HANDY & well timed. Don't have an air-compressor (except for a tiny thing in car boot to pump up tyres using cigarette socket). How big [compressor] do you need for the job? and how handy are they? or could I just use say a hair-dryer? Thanks, Chris g.
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Hi Chris, I read on another form that users had success with cleaning M track with soap and water, and that’s why I experimented myself. The fact is that when you buy used M track the whole track is very often dirty with grim, grease (and is some case nicotine)! The easiest way to get rid of it was to wash them like we do with the dishes! I had a lot of tracks so found it easier to use my air compressor (4-5 bar pressure) in the garage to completely blow them dry (because one you washed them you don’t really want them to start rusting…). But if you only have a few turnouts you could just use other means of drying and a big blow with your mouth followed by an air dryer should do the same job! Regarding spring i ordered via this website from US: http://www.modellbahnott...m/marklinhomepage/parts/0.95$ per piece. They also stock many other Marklin spare parts but they do not accept orders from Indonesia, Singapore and Nigeria. Brgds - Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
 1 user liked this useful post by Danlake
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Joined: 25/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 97 Location: India
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I am from India and I have some electrical Points which have the lantern cover missing, I have friend in the USA and UK can you please help and let me know where I can get just the lantern covers as spares. Thanks
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Joined: 10/08/2012(UTC) Posts: 47 Location: melbourne
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Originally Posted by: kumarvartak  I am from India and I have some electrical Points which have the lantern cover missing, I have friend in the USA and UK can you please help and let me know where I can get just the lantern covers as spares. Thanks I've never seen any - I just use them without covers, often without globes (original 3 rail M or larger lantern size) usually in tunnels or far side of board. The later smallest-lantern (mid-late 1980s on) M track points have a white plastic cover underneath the metal cover; this tends not to lost; so I've just blackened (paint, number of coats) it so it looks as close as I can get to original and I can still see bar (square, triangle) showing direction of points. For one point (with lost lantern cover) actually modified a 'gangers' (workmens) shed that I placed over point globe so it looked like "light" was coming out door of shed facing track [note: it no longer reflected direction]. I thought it was ok, but shed height had to be reduced heaps so as to not interfere with passing passenger coaches, so only did it the once. ([{ DanLake/Lasse : ordered my springs from there too this morning.. }])
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Joined: 25/03/2011(UTC) Posts: 97 Location: India
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Hello Received your suggestions. . regarding lantern covers. You see Marklin Parts are not available in India hence I find the forum very useful. Thanks again
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