Hi everyone and good evening to you Dusan,

I started converting the BR 65, things I can do and what I've got handy.

first of all:
first picture, this is the original light difuser and I've removed the bulb and placed 3 small led's eachnin front of the difuser.
the front light gets the same treatment.

next to the rear light difuser will be the loudspeaker, it just sits there nicely.

you can also see the the mounting I've made up myself from a disused pickupshoe . isolated it from the frame and it connects perfectly, I hope.
had to drill a bigger hole for the chimneyand added a large smokegenerator
I've tried to fit the ESU adapterplate at various spots but nothing fitted.
My last solution was, to cut away from the big metal block, and the cut out section I've reused in the front (picture)

It gives you also an idea where the adapterplate & sound decoder will fit, just and I mean just.
6 led's have been used for the gearlights.

Although I had in mind to insert a cab light aswell, I will see the results because the motor sits ther right in the middle of the windows.
We'll have a firebox light and I most probablly use 2 leds, 1 red, 1 yellow.

the front and rear coupling has been removed and a coupling shaft has been fitted, one side will have a Roco electric uncoupling dveice and the other side a Märklin coupling

The only thing has to be changed is the brushplate and its on order,
Fleischmann are still using 3 pole armatures although the new ones can bought with a flywheel but they are out of stock.
the motor itself is DC and had been converted to AC with a rectifier.

this is it folks until the next time.

John

Edited by user 02 August 2012 04:37:01(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Great job, John.

try here:

http://stores.ebay.com.a...oodz?_trksid=p4340.l2563

30 3mm LEDs about $14 inc Postage

30 3mm LEDs and 75 plastic sockets/holders for them about $15 inc Postage (in packets of 10 . got free postage on 2 packs)
They have long legs on them for easy working

NN

Hi John,

Great work.

Ian.

Ambitious project, John.

Look forward to seeing the finished product.

John,

Another great conversion!!!!!!

Hope you will have time to post a video of it on your layout once it is complete.

BR

Glenn

Dusan, Glenn,

My next attempt is to fit the firbox light, I've already got the 2 led's ready but the room between the motor and the metal block is tight, so I have to put my thinking cap on again and figure out how to do it.

The top of the metal block, the additional bits and pieces I've added I've taken off again because there has to be an isolation tape between the block and the adapterplate/decoder.
The decoder'adapterplate is one of the item(s) which is most vulnerable and I will look into it if I can secure it with a screw rather than a double sided adhesivey tape. (Picture 6)

The next difficult task is to connect the wires from the front and rear lights without squashing them between the boiler and the metal block and at the same time to have the opportunity to take off the boiler without ripping the wires apart and the same goes when the boiler is re-fitted.
I'll have a better idea when the brushplate is arriving and I can see what I can do after this.

One more part (no charge) has been added, I've inserted windows on both sides, a.) it will give you a certain prototypical look and b.) hopefully hides the motor exposure a bit.
the loco cab was loose and I found it 2 little screws on each side and by removing them the whole cab came off which gave me more rrom to insert the windows.

One has to remember such conversions are not impossible and if you do it for yourself you only can blame yourself if anything goes wrong but when its not your own loco one has to look bejond this task and make sure the user (owner) can take the boiler off if necessary or does other maintenance work if required and this requirement and also the unknown work that has undergone underneath the boiler, one has to make sure nothing can be easely broken off. (wires).

Today I've come across a problem.

the loco's housing or chassis don't belong to each other and the reason behind is, the top cogwheel is touching the housing and when the housing is put back in its position, the cogwheel bends backwards.
the chassis or the cogwheel arrangement seems to me in its original state but it may come from an earlier version and the hosuing (boiler from a later version) and between these times the cogwheel arrangement changed.

So to fix it I would have to cut away a section of the boiler for the cogwheel to run free and also back in alevel position. this of coure leaves a hole and the only way I could cover the hole is to fix a metal plate to the loco cab, which I said in my earlier post is removable.

1 PDF File
more photos will be added to day



John

Edited by user 02 August 2012 09:33:17(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Hi,

the loco is almost finished,

All I need now is a sound decoder and a new brushplate.

What have I done to this loco:

1 Roco electrical uncoupling device
2 Märklin coupling shafts and fitting parts
1 Märklin Relex coupling
Windows on both sides
1 Smokegenerator
1 Smokebox light (2 leds=red-yellow)
1 Gearlight
1 Adapterplate 21 pin
1 ESU Sound decoder 21 pin
1 ESU loudspeaker 3 each msd Led's front & rear
Weight: 666g

Thanks Dale,

I'll have some photos of your loco next.

What you want me to do with the coupling (BR 53) just cut off the wires or replace it with another Roco electical coupling ?

regards.,

John

OK I'll fix it.

Glen,

thanks,
I have no idea what service the BR 65 undertook.

Glen, sometimes it's not the money, Märklin hasn't made a BR 65 and a BR 85 is a different story.

I've done a few conversions, Locos you can buy now such as BR 23 but I rather have my old one converted and have to pay the price.

How can you compare a BR 85 with a Fleischmann BR 65, its weight is 666g.

If I would have thought for 1 minute this is not an option I would have mentioned it to Dusan.
It is true what you get off the shelf is cheaper.

John

P.S.

My topic is not about money, its what can be achieved with a bit of ingenuity

Hi John,

That's great work.

Ian.

Hi John and Dusan, very good , could I possibly be forgiven for my lack of faith then

I'll read up about those '65's, cause as Piet says, "it's important to know, what you don't know"

Edited by user 04 August 2012 03:41:26(UTC)  | Reason: quote

Chris,

it was running fine, but only forwards. It had no reverse. Being an analogue DC loco it was simply converted to analogue AC with a shoe (and don't ask what else, cos that's all the knowledge I have ).

It is very heavy engine and ran well along either M or C track with no noises what so ever.

Hi everyone, Dusan

Update:

This loco is almost finished and I'm getting the wrong spare part delivered but the right one is on its way this time and a video will follow.
It has an ESU Version 4 M4 sound decoder installed with an adapterplate.


John

my first post

been lurking on here for a long time

finally found a thread a may be able to contribute to

i have a Fulgurex BR 65 65018

hope thats of interest to someone

alan plymouth

my second post probably my last

no its not for sale or conversion

while reading this thread someone said marklin never made a BR 65
someone else said fleischmann and brawa did make one
i thought i would add that fulgurex also made one

alan plymonth

thats ok john

i cant work out how to list pictures
but my son should be here at the weekend
hes the brains
i will see if he can post a picture
fabulous brass engine

alan plymouth

Great conversion, John!

Congratulations with a job well done.

One downturn is having an ESU V4M4 sound decoder build in, you only have 15 soundslots instead of 21, this must be the reason the CS 2 can only handle 15.

regards.,

John

Edited by user 24 September 2012 08:57:24(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Jacques,

Unfortunately your help line is too late.

I've ordered a new one as a spare part.

I've run into trouble with the conversion because spare space for everything is so limited (we're talking about mm's) I've ruined the sound decoder, don't ask me how but I did.

The other problem is, I take on a project but have no idea if I can do it until I see the loco.
There is an upside for all of this because I seem to have a visual memory, what goes where or the space it could fit.

The boiler (mostly metal) is filled with speaker and the 3 light assembly (original =slightly modified) and this is it, ther is no other room.
When it comes to the frame its made in 2 parts, the frame itself and a big junk of ballast and I had to find room for the 21 pin adapterplate and the decoder.
The adapterplate is too wide to fit by laying it down, so I had to trim it, the space I found ( cutting out enough from the junk of metal) I couldn't put the adapterplate first because it interfered with the cogwheels so the decoder had to go first.
to have individual wires coming from the boiler (headlights front & rear and the speaker + DC return I've used a pluga nd this in turn had to go into a socket, the socket had to be secured.

Everythin worked except the smokegenerator, took the loco apart, fixed the connection for the smokegenerator, all worked fine and than the gearlights did'nt go off, taken it apart again and than it happened, the decoder somehow got ruined.

I've started all over again and have to try to a.) insulate everything (everything was, b.) find the best place for the socket (there is only one). Ive insulated the socket and plug with hot glue so a.) the wires shouldn't come off, b.) no wires are exposed.
I think I've mentioned it before the wires ESU uses are extremely thin and this gives me another problem, they are not very good when it comes to taken the boiler off and on several times.
I've insulated the adapterplate with double sided tape and this had its effect aswell, as I took the boiler off the adapter plate got stuck inside the boiler and this lifted the adapterplate from the decoder + lifted the wires.

photos will follow.

I had the loco running, the sound is tremendous, thew smoke is fine, the headlichts are great, gearluighs and 1 Roco electrical uncoupler.

another thing I have to adjust is the front coupling, its slightly higher than the others ( didn't find this out until I've coupled a carraige to it.

Sorry Dusan to inconvenience you.

regards.,

John

this is a good question, I can't remember and unfortunately, just yesterday I deleted all the photos from the conversion. you may have to ask Dusan, to lay it on its side and take a photo.

What are thinking doing with your loco ?

regards.,

John

Not really sure now John,

It has been sitting for the last 2 or 3 years in the bottom of the display case with a (still sealed in the box) 52610 V3 Lokpilot sitting on top of it. At the time that was all I had planned for it as well as replacing the globes with either 2mm LEDs or maybe SMD's depending on space but seeing the speaker fitting into the coal hopper on the back I'm very tempted. Will have to look into a sound decoder as all I have currently are 60945's with some 60965's on their way.

I was thinking of putting a larger shoe on it but it never used to play up before and I can't really see anywhere else to put a bigger one.

Also toying with the idea of swiping a front Telex off of a old 3031, I have a bunch of Marklin NEM 117993 Telex units on the way from the fatherland so may see if I can bodgie a NEM coupler socket on instead.

Also keen on the running lights, I've still got a few reels of various 2 and 3mm SMD leds left from when I closed the business so that is certainly worth looking into.

Its all food for thought but at the moment my first mission is to do a full sound conversion on my old faithful 3102 BR 53. Now that is worth putting running lights on.

All the best,

Shane D-S