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steventrain		#51 Posted : 05 May 2007 22:15:05(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,686 Location: United Kingdom		It look great!
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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laalves		#52 Posted : 06 May 2007 01:05:39(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,162 Location: Portugal		Congratulations! It looks great! Luis
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jaivh		#53 Posted : 06 May 2007 01:26:41(UTC) Retweet
You have been a member since:: 28/04/2007(UTC) Posts: 81 Location: Regina, SK		Very nice, I hope it continues to go well for you.
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mmervine		#54 Posted : 06 May 2007 01:33:28(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 30/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,893 Location: Keene, NH		Mikael: Glad that you were able to repair your paint job. I have had a couple of paint disasters over the years and know how frustrating it can be. Looking good now! r/mark
		Märklin C-track, Marklin Digital & ECoS, multi-era French & Swiss http://www.ete-ene.org/m...mervines-layout-gallery/
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Caplin		#55 Posted : 06 May 2007 02:45:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark		Congratilations Mikael, I just knew that you would get there. Excellent look. BTW, I see the very thin white stripe along the side and in the doorways. How on earth did you mask this?
		Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL
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nevw		#56 Posted : 06 May 2007 03:12:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD		Very Good
		NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
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Mikael		#57 Posted : 06 May 2007 10:14:33(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Caplin <br />BTW, I see the very thin white stripe along the side and in the doorways. How on earth did you mask this? That's easy..... Because I didn't mask it at all. The stripes come with the kit
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rugauger		#58 Posted : 06 May 2007 11:28:33(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 19/12/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Swindon, Wiltshire		Looking good!
		Richard
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Mikael		#59 Posted : 06 May 2007 14:03:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Latest progress: Now it is almost ready. The headlights have been given a bit of metallic paint. BTW is there a way to make this paint really shine? Edited by user 28 June 2015 16:00:21(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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steventrain		#60 Posted : 06 May 2007 14:04:09(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,686 Location: United Kingdom		Excellent lining!
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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hxmiesa		#61 Posted : 06 May 2007 15:31:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,588 Location: Spain		Yep, that´s what they looked like! Good job, Mikael!
		Best regards Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain") http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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DamonKelly		#62 Posted : 06 May 2007 15:35:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,423 Location: Brisbane, QLD		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Mikael <br />BTW is there a way to make this paint really shine? Try using a fine brush to apply some gloss varnish. Most metallic paints end up fairly dull once they dry, so a "hard" gloss varnish does the trick. The old style non-acrylic varnishes work best here. Also, the varnish prevents the metallic paint from oxidising, which it will after about 2 or 3 years.
		Cheers, Damon
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ulf999		#63 Posted : 06 May 2007 22:59:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden		Good job!
		Ulf, American HO. www.goldenvalleyroute.com/
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mz_1414		#64 Posted : 06 May 2007 23:10:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 413 Location: ,		nice mikael, now we just have to see it runs on the tracks
		Peter www.falsterbanen.dk
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Mikael		#65 Posted : 07 May 2007 11:45:08(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Now I just need to give it 2 or 3 coats of varnish, and then it will be done. Meanwhile, I have been looking at the interior and electrics, and performed a test-run. And boy, does it run smooth [:p] When the top is all done, I just need to install the lights, and then I have a nice unusual model to add to my layout. Here is a picture from the test-run: Edited by user 28 June 2015 16:00:52(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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steventrain		#66 Posted : 07 May 2007 13:08:20(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,686 Location: United Kingdom		Very good work. What type is the can motor?
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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Mikael		#67 Posted : 07 May 2007 14:21:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		The motor is a Faulhaber. Very smooth and quiet.
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steventrain		#68 Posted : 07 May 2007 14:24:48(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,686 Location: United Kingdom		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Mikael <br />The motor is a Faulhaber. Very smooth and quiet. Excellent,very good.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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intruder		#69 Posted : 07 May 2007 23:23:00(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Very good work, Mikael! I'm happy that your paint repair went so smooth. How will you make the lights? We are looking forward for your photos of the final product.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Mikael		#70 Posted : 08 May 2007 01:20:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		The lights will be made with 1.8mm lightbulbs, that fit right in the holes. They didn't come with the kit, but was available as an optional extra. Interior light will be white LEDs with my good old beachball modification
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Mikael		#71 Posted : 10 May 2007 23:46:24(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Time for an update. Not that I haven't done anything these last days, but as I only applied several layers of varnish, you wouldn't know the difference on new pictures anyway But now it is time to install the windows: Unfortunately during a testrun, I noticed some very strange behaviours. Usually after a meter of driving, the train would stop completely dead. And only come to lie after a power cycle. Other times it could suddenly set off at full speed, regardless of what I did on the controls. And then some of the time it would work perfectly all the time until power off. The decoder must be faulty, so it goes back to the shop tomorrow. Edited by user 28 June 2015 16:01:13(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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hxmiesa		#72 Posted : 11 May 2007 11:04:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,588 Location: Spain		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Mikael Unfortunately during a testrun, I noticed some very strange behaviours. Usually after a meter of driving, the train would stop completely dead. And only come to lie after a power cycle. Other times it could suddenly set off at full speed, regardless of what I did on the controls. And then some of the time it would work perfectly all the time until power off. The decoder must be faulty, so it goes back to the shop tomorrow. Well, that´s quite a mixed bag of symptoms! Rather than the deco being faulty, it COULD also be a short, maybe caused by the bogie turning. Could also be the power-draw. (Did you try it without the lighting?) Well, just some ideas, before blaming the deco...
		Best regards Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain") http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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Mikael		#73 Posted : 11 May 2007 13:25:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Yes, it is the same without lights connected. One further observation I've made: I have dimmed the light output, and that works fine while the decoder behaves. But as soon as the decoder is nonresponsive in whatever way it may choose, the lights either goes out, or lights up at full power. The last situation tells me that the power feed is working, but it is essentially the processor in the decoder that freezes up. It also does this if I don't try to drive with the train, so it can't be the motor that causes this.
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Mikael		#74 Posted : 12 May 2007 00:52:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Good news. It was the decoder, and it was replaced promptly. Actually, being the good costumer I am, I just got a new one home with me to see if it really was a decoder fault, and then I can always return the faulty one next time I drop by the shop. Other than swapping decoders and testing quite a bit, I have also started to install lights today: Here is the interior light, with a little plug at the end. This plug makes it very easy to separate the top from the bottom, if needed some day: The plug counterpart: Edited by user 28 June 2015 16:01:40(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Vardex		#75 Posted : 12 May 2007 01:16:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 404 Location: vlaardingen,		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by hxmiesa <br />For painting see this thread; https://www.marklin-user...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=5327 I wonder why Bart havent written anything here since last year?! Maybe because he was ill...[xx(] Mikael compliments with this train I really like it a lot. Bart
		www.lokpaint.com
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nevw		#76 Posted : 12 May 2007 02:51:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Vardex <br /> Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by hxmiesa <br />For painting see this thread; https://www.marklin-user...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=5327 I wonder why Bart havent written anything here since last year?! Maybe because he was ill...[xx(] Mikael compliments with this train I really like it a lot. Bart Bart, I Hope that you are now cured N
		NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
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hxmiesa		#77 Posted : 12 May 2007 12:33:50(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,588 Location: Spain		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Vardex Maybe because he was ill...[xx(] Good to see you back, man! I hope that you are well! @Mikael; Impressive!
		Best regards Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain") http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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Caplin		#78 Posted : 12 May 2007 12:50:52(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Mikael .... I have also started to install lights today: Happy that the decoder fault is cleared away, so you can get on with the completion. I really enjoy following your progress. The wiring seen on the pic. is that 20-22 or even 30 AWG isolated copper Or will you eventually isolate the wiring using a spray or brush-on varnish What kind of glue, if any, will be used for fixation of the wires to the roof/walls Very interested in knowing.
		Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL
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Vardex		#79 Posted : 12 May 2007 13:19:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 404 Location: vlaardingen,		Instead of copper wire I lately use conductive paint. This has prooved to be a veru succesful method untill now. I simply paint the wires to the LED in the shell. When using an old "lichtleiter" than it's easy to glue the leds onto it and paint the wires. Picture follows! Also easy to modify circuit boards. Bart
		www.lokpaint.com
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Caplin		#80 Posted : 12 May 2007 18:47:23(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Vardex <br />Instead of copper wire I lately use conductive paint... Bart Hi Bart, I am very exited to see a pic. as I don't know the method, so I can't really picture it to myself, but it sounds the way to go. Sorry to hear that you have been ill as I understand from following the forum. Hope are you are well now.
		Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL
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Mikael		#81 Posted : 12 May 2007 19:25:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Nice to hear you are still alive Bart. The wires are isolated copper, size is 32 AWG (if I have converted correctly). I fix the bulbs with a bit of epoxy, which is the most heat-resistant glue I have. And when the epoxy is mixed anyway, I also use it to fix the wires. Here is a picture from the assembly of the bulbs for the other end: And here you can see my special "beachball" modification to the cold, white LEDs. Small pieces of an old orange beachball are glued onto the LEDs, which make the light more realistic. Now I am only waiting for the last glue to cure, and then it should be ready for the final assembly and a test drive. I will bring my videocam for that Edited by user 28 June 2015 16:02:44(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Mikael		#82 Posted : 13 May 2007 01:36:32(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Oh..... Just as I thought I was done, one more problem shows up. The 2*5 bulbs (3 white and 2 red) connected to the light outputs seem to be to much for the LokPilot. The function outputs immediately goes into protection shutoff. I should have forseen that problem long ago, but nooooo [:(] Anyway, I solved it by putting two resistors in series with the light outputs from the decoder. I now have 10 Ohm resistors in, but they have to be increased a bit, as the decoder still goes into protection from time to time. But apart from that, everything is fine. Here the plug is connected ust before everything is closed up: And a few pictures from its maiden voyage. The video I promised will have to wait a day or two. It is getting late here. Edited by user 28 June 2015 16:03:15(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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1 user liked this useful post by Mikael		RayF
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steventrain		#83 Posted : 13 May 2007 01:45:51(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,686 Location: United Kingdom		Congratulations. Very Well done,Mikael.
		Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
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mmervine		#84 Posted : 13 May 2007 01:47:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 30/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,893 Location: Keene, NH		Wow!!! Really nice!
		Märklin C-track, Marklin Digital & ECoS, multi-era French & Swiss http://www.ete-ene.org/m...mervines-layout-gallery/
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mz_1414		#85 Posted : 13 May 2007 02:06:19(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 413 Location: ,		[:p][:p][:p] Congratulations, nice job Mikael
		Peter www.falsterbanen.dk
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Caplin		#86 Posted : 13 May 2007 03:12:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark		Hi Mikael, Splended result. It has been a pleasure to follow your progress. Now, what is the next project in your order book
		Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL
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laalves		#87 Posted : 13 May 2007 04:36:52(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,162 Location: Portugal		Beautiful addition to your collection, Mikael, congratz! Luis
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nevw		#88 Posted : 13 May 2007 06:48:44(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD		Ditto . beautiful. Nev
		NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around
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Pianne		#89 Posted : 13 May 2007 12:03:03(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 461 Location: Bruges,		Wonderfull! I've been following your progress with fascination(sp?) and the result is simply beautifull. Congratulations and thanks for sharing.
		Kind regards, Pieter-Jan Bruges, Belgium.
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Vardex		#90 Posted : 14 May 2007 21:49:02(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 404 Location: vlaardingen,		Great train, great job! For the ones who don't know what I ment with conductive paint, here some pictures of my BR221 "lichtleiter". First I drill two holes and glue in a few contact pins, then some planes for the led, these are then glued on. Finally I connect them electrically with the paint (to eachother, and to the pins). Bart
		www.lokpaint.com
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Voller		#91 Posted : 14 May 2007 22:40:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 27/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 78 Location: Helsingør, Denmark		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Mikael Very well done. Looks like the real thing. It's been a while since I've seen Ym 53 with control cabs in both ends of the car. They mainly use two units coupled together today. That must be the next task for you. :)
		Best regards, Voller. http://modeltog.voller.dk
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Mikael		#92 Posted : 14 May 2007 23:52:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Thank you very much everyone. I am very happy that I now have a model of this train. And while I've never tried to make a train like this berfore, this isn't going to be the last. I won't jump out in another project like this very soon, but eventually I certainly will try it again. I was quite nervous about this when I started, but there really isn't any reason to. Just take it slow and it will turn out fine, although I think I was lucky to have a real airbrush. I don't think it would have turned out this nice without it. I just discovered yet a little problem with it. It can hit a turnout lantern one specific place on my layout, and it is VERY close to several others. I need to trim the bottom "ornaments" a bit, but then it should be finished. Here is the video I promised you earlier: http://www2.ejberg.dk/external/marklinusers/lynette.wmv Edited by user 28 June 2015 16:03:55(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Caplin		#93 Posted : 15 May 2007 00:51:54(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark		Absolute a great video. Thanks for sharing. The "skinnebus" is a real attraction on your layout. Congrats!
		Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL
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intruder		#94 Posted : 15 May 2007 01:34:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway		Great, Mikael! Congratulations with a job very well done.
		Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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kiwi		#95 Posted : 15 May 2007 01:57:58(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 07/08/2002(UTC) Posts: 305 Location: Sydney, NSW		great work, well done kiwi
		Mike. Rebuilding at the moment(c-track,digital) DRG,DB,SBB era 1-4 steamers and the odd electric https://www.marklin-user...ault.aspx?g=posts&t=4561
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Caplin		#96 Posted : 15 May 2007 19:04:24(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Mikael The wires are isolated copper, size is 32 AWG (if I have converted correctly). I fix the bulbs with a bit of epoxy, which is the most heat-resistant glue I have. And when the epoxy is mixed anyway, I also use it to fix the wires. Here is a picture from the assembly of the bulbs for the other end: Hi Mikael, Found a convertion table for wire sizes, shows also resistance in ohms/1000m): http://www.engineeringto...m/wire-gauges-d_419.html According to this your wire size is 0.20 mm (32 AWG). I need to buy some, so I want to be sure. Thanks.
		Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL
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mz_1414		#97 Posted : 15 May 2007 19:58:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 26/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 413 Location: ,		nice movie mikael....
		Peter www.falsterbanen.dk
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PierreGILLARD		#98 Posted : 15 May 2007 21:20:01(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec		Absolutely fantastic ! Congratulations, Mikael. Pierre.
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Mikael		#99 Posted : 15 May 2007 22:58:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/09/2004(UTC) Posts: 959 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark		Quote: [size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Caplin <br />According to this your wire size is 0.20 mm (32 AWG). I need to buy some, so I want to be sure. My wire is exactly 0.20 mm across, but I now see that AWG refers to the size without any isolation. And as my wire is isolated, it may be that is really is closer to AWG 33. But I wouldn't care much about it. Just make sure it isn't too thin, so it doesn't break while handling it. And too thick isn't good either as it can be so sturdy that you'll snap off the wires on the soldered-on bulbs instead, when trying to bend it in place. I've busted several smd LEDs that way. 0.20 mm seem to be a good size for this kind of job, but it also happened to be what I just had around the house.
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Rowan		#100 Posted : 15 May 2007 23:05:14(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,278 Location: Brisbane, Queensland		Excellent ! AB FAB !
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